(Topic ID: 61134)

Official Seawitch Fan Club ... All Welcome


By DirtySouth

7 years ago



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#701 1 year ago

So i've re-pinned the connectors on the TA-100 all showing correct voltages. I can't seem to get the 5v on the SDU-100 Rev C.

- Re-pinned connectors J3 and J4
- Rebuilt 5v section (apart from 2.2 Cap)
- New Voltage Regulator (tested on bench)
- Ground mods done and 5v TP1 -> Tp3

Now i can give the board 12v on the bench and all is well, but as soon as i plug it into the backbox no 5v, i've checked pin 12 on J3 and its giving out 12v unreg.

Its got me scratching my head some what..

Any ideas?

#702 1 year ago

silly question, but have you checked continuity on the wire(s) that should be providing the 5v to the SDU board from the rectifier board?

#703 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

silly question, but have you checked continuity on the wire(s) that should be providing the 5v to the SDU board from the rectifier board?

Cheers, I am getting the 12v unregulated, 5v is regulated from this on the SDU board.

#704 1 year ago

Right i've sorted the SDU board out and the game now boots and i can start a game. All switches are registering in test, only problem i have now is the Solenoids don't seem to be working correctly, i.e If the Right slingshot is hit the knocker sounds and the right bumper will trigger the ball trough.

Any help would be appreciated

#705 1 year ago
Quoted from Marv:

Right i've sorted the SDU board out and the game now boots and i can start a game. All switches are registering in test, only problem i have now is the Solenoids don't seem to be working correctly, i.e If the Right slingshot is hit the knocker sounds and the right bumper will trigger the ball trough.
Any help would be appreciated

That sounds like a blown or missing diode in the coil chain. Follow the wires from coil to coil. Betting the coil either before or after the slingshot has a bad diode.

#706 1 year ago

Could also be switch / connector issues. See what happens in coil test vs. Pressing the switches

#707 1 year ago
Quoted from Marv:

Solenoids don't seem to be working correctly, i.e If the Right slingshot is hit the knocker sounds and the right bumper will trigger the ball trough.

Sounds possible that the solenoid data lines are missing a bit--possibly due to bad solder joint or bad connector. I would make sure the male and female connectors at J4 on the MPU and J4 on the SDU have both been re-pinned/re-flowed/replaced, as they carry the solenoid data between the MPU and SDU. If one or more bits are missing, it can cause weird behavior/incorrect coils firing.

#708 1 year ago

I got the probe out and tested U2 on the SDU and pin 23 isn't pulsing. I've ordered a replacement.

2 weeks later
#709 1 year ago

Do these roms get bitrot or something, i've not had a battery in there (was waiting on a memory cap) and the ram won't clear now. All the displays show 22, it was working before. I'm sure i remember reading something about it corrupting the code if there is no battery?

1 month later
#710 1 year ago

I have a question for Seawitch owners. On your game can you soft plunge to the “5000 3 Advance” lane? On some games the ball naturally travels to the left of the shooter lane on a soft plunge and then comes back down through the “5000 3 Advance” lane. On the game I have the ball always stays straight and can never falls down that lane. I’m wondering what the correct behavior should be. Anyone know or have opinions?

#711 1 year ago
Quoted from kickabit:

I have a question for Seawitch owners. On your game can you soft plunge to the “5000 3 Advance” lane? On some games the ball naturally travels to the left of the shooter lane on a soft plunge and then comes back down through the “5000 3 Advance” lane. On the game I have the ball always stays straight and can never falls down that lane. I’m wondering what the correct behavior should be. Anyone know or have opinions?

I saw that being done on a tournament video. I was always wondering where the skill shot was on this pin. So I started trying to shoot this way and figured out it is a waste of time. By the time you make that shot---if you even make it at all---I can blast the ball around the orbit and drop 5 drop targets for 1000 points each and have a good game going.

#712 1 year ago

When one of y’all are ready to sell......

2 weeks later
#713 1 year ago

Seawitch tests selling over the next week with white arrows. Yellow ones in production now.

IMG_0063 (resized).JPGIMG_0064 (resized).JPG
#714 1 year ago

Seawitch playfields! ... Yaaay!!!
Definately be down for one of those!

Came here to put up a vid of a mod that I came up with to improve loops flow:

There are a few other vids on the channel...

#715 1 year ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

improve loops flow

Just watched 5 minutes, and noticed nothing. Need help here.

* what is the problem that the mod solves?
* what is the mod?
* when in the video (timestamp) is the mod working?

thanks
-mof

#716 1 year ago
Quoted from mof:

Just watched 5 minutes, and noticed nothing. Need help here.
* what is the problem that the mod solves?
* what is the mod?
* when in the video (timestamp) is the mod working?
thanks
-mof

Ahhh, sorry!

No worries.... I guess it isn't obvious for anyone not familiar with Seawitch.

It is just the loop/shooter diverter.

Original is a thin shim flap. This is very "bouncy" and messes up orbits in both directions. Spinner shots would usually rattle against the exposed wood rail and dribble straight back down and stop the spinner run. Orbits going left to right the ball would deflect from the metal flap and spring the ball out making it hard to reach/hit as it passes down across the upper right flipper, but some distance away from the flippers face.

The mod is a Rigid diverter, allowing the loops to flow smoothly in both directions. I also moved a post on the Left side about 3/16" (not too far so that the original plastic is still utilised without modification), which makes orbits "achievable" from the upper and lower right flippers. Any spinner shot now very rarely rattles to fall straight back down and prematurely stop the spinner, instead now the loop runs all the way around and the spinner has a chance to "spin out".

The mod is operating frequently throughout all 5 videos. Any time there is a launch, or any orbit in either direction. Anyone familiar with typical factory Seawitch flow would likely notice the difference in game flow in these videos. Frequent loops, loop combos, not generally a feature of gameplay for this old Stern layout!

A couple of points...
0:56 in first vid is a loop combo.
3:20 in the second vid is one of the spinner shots.

Similar to some of the flow improvment for Beatles gameplay, but much more subtle and bolts on.

#717 1 year ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

familiar with Seawitch.

Pretty dang familiar with Seawitch.
Cliffy has the thicker stainless steel shooter lane flap for sale.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/seawitch-stainless-steel-ball-guides/page/2#post-4385844
I have it on mine.
Mof

#718 1 year ago
Quoted from mof:

Pretty dang familiar with Seawitch.
Cliffy has the thicker part for sale.
I have it on mine.
Mof

Oh, I figured anyone familliar with Seawitch would have noticed the difference in orbit flow. Anyway...

Does the cliffy idea still scrape the crap out of the playfield like my original was doing?

Had never heard of the cliffy mod. Does it go all the way up to the loop ball guide? (to cover the exposed wooden siderail where all the spinner rattles used to happen?)

Wrapped with how this turned out anyway, game is Much more playable and enjoyable without the rattly bouncy nonsense.

#719 1 year ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Came here to put up a vid of a mod that I came up with to improve loops flow:

I was tinkering with some ideas to improve the design there too but never came up with anything i was completely satisfied with. Any chance you would want to make another to sell?

#720 1 year ago
Quoted from frunch:

I was tinkering with some ideas to improve the design there too but never came up with anything i was completely satisfied with. Any chance you would want to make another to sell?

It's just a 5mm SS rail on a hinge, spring loaded. Cut to a wedge-like end, so it blends nicely with the orbit ball guide.

Could get someone local to make the same. Problem I see is that these games can vary a little in dimension, like from the two screw holes in PF to where the orbit guide begins. I couldn't guarantee proper fit to an unknown copy...

20190829_195542.jpg

Two prototypes so far. The single rail design is what's in the videos. The double rail version carried too much weight to function correctly, especially with the ceramic ball.

20190829_222916.jpg

#721 1 year ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Oh, I figured anyone familliar with Seawitch would have noticed the difference in orbit flow. Anyway...

Sorry. With your camera placed 10 feet away from the pin combined with I am looking with my cell phone, it is not obvious.

It looks interesting. But some close up pics, unless you are trying to keep a secret, would be nice to see.

#722 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Sorry. With your camera placed 10 feet away from the pin combined with I am looking with my cell phone, it is not obvious.
It looks interesting. But some close up pics, unless you are trying to keep a secret, would be nice to see.

Yeah just wanted to get the scores in there. Thanks for the feedback! ... I'll get some better footage a bit closer up .

Sharing the idea so that other Seawitch owners can benefit... it has almost completely eliminated rejects from the right orbit, and gives a nice smooth flow. Still want to tweak the bottom end, protruding a little to far I think.

Not too hard for any fitter or welder to knock up.

Also determined to get a game recorded with spinner maxed and ripped!

#723 1 year ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Could get someone local to make the same. Problem I see is that these games can vary a little in dimension, like from the two screw holes in PF to where the orbit guide begins. I couldn't guarantee proper fit to an unknown copy...

Some people will have an issue if a new hole has to be drilled into the play field; Some won’t.

I incorporated a launch ramp from a Beatles pin that required drilling two new holes in the shooter lane and some had issue with that.

The challenge will be how to point out to someone just where it will need to be located for the proper fit and action.

What kind of spring are using? Expansion spring or torsion spring?

#724 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Some people will have an issue if a new hole has to be drilled into the play field; Some won’t.
I incorporated a launch ramp from a Beatles pin that required drilling two new holes in the shooter lane and some had issue with that.
The challenge will be how to point out to someone just where it will need to be located for the proper fit and action.
What kind of spring are using? Expansion spring or torsion spring?

An extension spring from a grab kit.

20190829_222900.jpg

I guess a tortion spring could be a bit cleaner looking. That would make it more fiddly, and perhaps less robust. My welding practice is about rookie level Lol ... I tried to make it as tidy looking as I could... there is plans for final refinements and improvments.

At least one, the pivot pin position needs to come in, more into line with the two screws.

Also, there are no new holes for the diverter. Moving the post at the entry to left loop is not required. It just makes bottom flipper left orbits possible. The new hole comes inside the footprint of the star post. 5.5mm. The unused hole does stay covered.

#725 1 year ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

An extension spring from a grab kit.
[quoted image]
I guess a tortion spring could be a bit cleaner looking. That would make it more fiddly, and perhaps less robust. My welding practice is about rookie level Lol ... I tried to make it as tidy looking as I could... there is plans for final refinements and improvments.

This looks very similar to Sorcerer’s shooter lane diverter. Williams put the torsion spring under the playfield.

#726 1 year ago
Quoted from kickabit:

This looks very similar to Sorcerer’s shooter lane diverter. Williams put the torsion spring under the playfield.

I like that idea... I did want to do it without drilling the playfield, and so that it was reversible, though.

#727 1 year ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

An extension spring from a grab kit.
[quoted image]
I guess a tortion spring could be a bit cleaner looking. That would make it more fiddly, and perhaps less robust. My welding practice is about rookie level Lol ... I tried to make it as tidy looking as I could... there is plans for final refinements and improvments.
At least one, the pivot pin position needs to come in, more into line with the two screws.
Also, there are no new holes for the diverter. Moving the post at the entry to left loop is not required. It just makes bottom flipper left orbits possible. The new hole comes inside the footprint of the star post. 5.5mm. The unused hole does stay covered.

A torsion spring would look neater but would not really be practical. Finding a replacement expansion spring would be much easier than trying to replace a broken torsion spring.

You have the ability to weld. That is a big advantage

It looks good. Maybe some refinement needed, but it looks good.

If you could find an economical way to add an adjustable spring tensioner ...

#728 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

A torsion spring would look neater but would not really be practical. Finding a replacement expansion spring would be much easier than trying to replace a broken torsion spring.
You have the ability to weld. That is a big advantage
It looks good. Maybe some refinement needed, but it looks good.
If you could find an economical way to add an adjustable spring tensioner ...

I have some alterations I'm working on that will allow a better alignment with the spinner rubber guide. I think the most practical way to adjust tension is simply by spring selection.

Here is a coloser video of the existing version demonstrating some orbits.

#729 1 year ago

Looking to buy a Seawitch, any condition considered. Very interested in a project game that needs work and parts. Please let me know if you have something available.

#730 1 year ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

I have some alterations I'm working on that will allow a better alignment with the spinner rubber guide. I think the most practical way to adjust tension is simply by spring selection.
Here is a coloser video of the existing version demonstrating some orbits.

Looks good, man! Count me in if you decide to make some more of em!

Gotta admit it never crossed my mind to throw a power Ball into my Seawitch. I might have to finally treat myself to one....

#731 1 year ago

Finally getting a chance to load some pics of the Seawitch I picked up a little while back. A bit rough -- no backglass and a playfield that is just a bit worn.

5J5A0960 (resized).JPG5J5A0961 (resized).JPG5J5A0963 (resized).JPG5J5A0964 (resized).JPG

I found a crackly backglass at the Cleveland Show; its a bit easier to look at now.

5J5A0965 (resized).JPG

Noticed there was an extra transformer looking unit in the bottom cabinet -- seems this witch originated in Canada.

5J5A0966 (resized).JPG

Right now the game lives in my garage; it gives me something to play in between burger flips on the grill. I figure I cannot hurt it too much more in its current condition.

#732 1 year ago

looking to joint the Seawitch club if anyone has one or has a lead in the midwest. Thanks!

#733 1 year ago

There are discount Seawitch playfields available under $500 US shipped to USA still. F-H at this time.

#734 1 year ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

Finally getting a chance to load some pics of the Seawitch I picked up a little while back. A bit rough -- no backglass and a playfield that is just a bit worn.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I found a crackly backglass at the Cleveland Show; its a bit easier to look at now.
[quoted image]
Noticed there was an extra transformer looking unit in the bottom cabinet -- seems this witch originated in Canada.
[quoted image]
Right now the game lives in my garage; it gives me something to play in between burger flips on the grill. I figure I cannot hurt it too much more in its current condition.

You are really starting to get the Sterns in your blood and have been rounding up some nice examples to work with.

P.S. I call dibs on those 4 red drop targets if you would like to replace them They look like Dragonfist red drop targets.

#735 1 year ago

Does anyone have a file or measurements on the plastic add-on to stop the ball going on the plastic?

#736 1 year ago
Quoted from Marv:

Does anyone have a file or measurements on the plastic add-on to stop the ball going on the plastic?

Something that is about 3/4" inch // 25 mm high. Bend and form so you can screw it down on the post studs.
==========================================

Or do this: Cut a piece of .020 clear polycarbonate/ Lexan to match the profile of the plastic and also add some extra material over the top of the flipper. This small area of plastic over the flipper has stopped my problem and it looks cleaner that having a piece of material sitting on top of the plastic and acting like a dam.

It sits under the plastic and needs no mounting brackets.

IMG_1904 (resized).JPG

2 months later
#737 1 year ago

If anyone's interested, I just listed my restored seawitch in the marketplace:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/87822

#738 1 year ago

Just posted my very nice and fully LED'd Seawitch. Just ran it through 2 tournaments this month and she is super reliable!

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/84765

#739 1 year ago

Has anyone installed one of the beehive playfield protectors, and did it help reduce the amount of airballs off the center bank?

1 month later
#740 1 year ago

I just joined the club last week. Such a great game. It is actually the first game in our lineup that my wife wants to play together.

I would say that is is working about 98%. There are one or 2 lamps out and I am not sure if some of the switches are working. In order to check these out further, I need to get the self-test to work.

When I hit the self test button, I can hear a click under the play field and then everything but the GI goes dead. Not sure where to start on this. My thought is maybe a solenoid is shorting and killing the MPU???? Anyone run into this before or have an idea of where I can start?

#741 1 year ago

The first button press is the "test everything" mode. I'd try process of elimination, first try removing the under playfield fuse, then DCing all the controlled lamps, etc. Your rectifier board may have some crappy connectors or maybe a low voltage issue somewhere.

I got a beehive protector installed. It needed more adjustments than the german ones I've used but the airball difference is night and day, seawitch is fun to play again. 10/10 would recommend.

#742 1 year ago

Thanks Chalkey. The rectifier is integrated to the wiring harness via wire nuts (not by me). Looking through that spaghetti is not going to be fun.

I will try unplugging connectors to see if I can get into test mode. That should at least narrow the options

#743 1 year ago

For any lurkers out there wishing to join the club my Seawitch is in the maket for 2600. The embed ad feature isn't working but here's the link:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/89436

#744 1 year ago

Pending

#745 1 year ago
Quoted from WonderMellon:

I just joined the club last week. Such a great game. It is actually the first game in our lineup that my wife wants to play together.
I would say that is is working about 98%. There are one or 2 lamps out and I am not sure if some of the switches are working. In order to check these out further, I need to get the self-test to work.
When I hit the self test button, I can hear a click under the play field and then everything but the GI goes dead. Not sure where to start on this. My thought is maybe a solenoid is shorting and killing the MPU???? Anyone run into this before or have an idea of where I can start?

You might try replacing your self test switch. On of my Sterns would not do the self test. It turned out the switch was defective. Your problem sounds a bit different but those switches are cheap to replace (not accounting for shipping costs).

#746 1 year ago

I am fairly certain the switch works. It goes into self test, but the first step in the test is causing the boards to shut down everything. The GI is the only thing that will continue to run

#747 1 year ago
Quoted from vbittnv:

Selling my restored Seawitch in case someone is looking for an amazing example in the Midwest!
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/90335

Which transformer is installed in your Seawitch? The fuse values called out on the rectifier mounting board shows 5 amps for the solenoids, instead of 7 amps Seawitch came with. Perhaps someone swapped transformers?

#748 1 year ago

OK, got home and tried things out. Looks like the self test does work, but I may, indeed, need a new switch. It appears that sometimes a single push of the switch would register twice.

I was worried that I may have some switches not registering, but they all seem to work. One interesting thing is that I have to press the switch down for a second or more for it to register in self-test, but it does register fine in game play.

Th knocker doesn't work. It appears to be connected, but it never fires. I did not put the meter on it to see if it gets voltage or not. My daughter hates the cabinet knockers, so this is low on the list.

I have a few bulbs out. There does not seem to be a lamp matrix chart. I can't really make out the list in the schematics to a chart. Does anyone know if a lamp matrix chart exists, and if so point me in the right direction?

#749 1 year ago
Quoted from WonderMellon:

I have a few bulbs out. There does not seem to be a lamp matrix chart. I can't really make out the list in the schematics to a chart. Does anyone know if a lamp matrix chart exists, and if so point me in the right direction?

There is no lamp matrix chart. There are two pages in the print that tell you which light has what color of wire and its connector pin location.

E.G. the first light in the list tells you that it is "blue left side" with wire color of brown with black stripe. And it travels to connector J1-pin 18 on the LDA. This is the blue light on the left side of the orbit. Sometimes it is a bit of a struggle to figure out which light is which because of the way the engineers labeled them.

Try this: halfway down you see

1) Drop Target Increase (Middle) This is the big white X light in the middle 4-place drop assembly.
2) Drop Target increase (Bottom) This is the big white X light in the middle 4-place drop assembly.

OK. You now have the middle drop and bottom drop assemblies located. Where is the Top Drop Target at?

You will find down low. It is #6 from the bottom and is is just called "Target Increase". This is your top drop target assembly.

This pic is from the play field schematic page.

Screen Shot 2020-01-13 at 7.34.21 PM (resized).png

=============================================================================

And this pic from the LDA page shows the same thing.

Screen Shot 2020-01-13 at 7.34.42 PM (resized).png

Bally blueprints from the same era are all nice and neat with clean writing by the engineers. Stern's drawings are a sloppy mess. In some cases a doctor's handwriting would be better

#750 1 year ago

So instead of a matrix, each lamp is controlled by it's own connection wire and circuit?

It looks like I have 10 lights out. (I metered the sockets and no power goes to them during lamp test)

J3-1
J1-1
J1-8
J3-19
J1-28
J2-4
j3-16
J3-23
J2-8

The last one is Advance Loop Value 1 from the bottom drop target, but I can not match that up to a description on the list.

I found that Q48 is missing and there is a burn spot in it's place. That maps to J3-16, so that makes sense.

The transistors are almost flush to the board so trying to get a logic probe on the legs while the board is in the machine is going to be near impossible.

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