(Topic ID: 61134)

Official Seawitch Fan Club ... All Welcome


By DirtySouth

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 736 posts
  • 105 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by cottonm4
  • Topic is favorited by 36 Pinsiders

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There are 736 posts in this topic. You are on page 15 of 15.
#701 3 months ago

So i've re-pinned the connectors on the TA-100 all showing correct voltages. I can't seem to get the 5v on the SDU-100 Rev C.

- Re-pinned connectors J3 and J4
- Rebuilt 5v section (apart from 2.2 Cap)
- New Voltage Regulator (tested on bench)
- Ground mods done and 5v TP1 -> Tp3

Now i can give the board 12v on the bench and all is well, but as soon as i plug it into the backbox no 5v, i've checked pin 12 on J3 and its giving out 12v unreg.

Its got me scratching my head some what..

Any ideas?

#702 3 months ago

silly question, but have you checked continuity on the wire(s) that should be providing the 5v to the SDU board from the rectifier board?

#703 3 months ago
Quoted from j_m_:

silly question, but have you checked continuity on the wire(s) that should be providing the 5v to the SDU board from the rectifier board?

Cheers, I am getting the 12v unregulated, 5v is regulated from this on the SDU board.

#704 3 months ago

Right i've sorted the SDU board out and the game now boots and i can start a game. All switches are registering in test, only problem i have now is the Solenoids don't seem to be working correctly, i.e If the Right slingshot is hit the knocker sounds and the right bumper will trigger the ball trough.

Any help would be appreciated

#705 3 months ago
Quoted from Marv:

Right i've sorted the SDU board out and the game now boots and i can start a game. All switches are registering in test, only problem i have now is the Solenoids don't seem to be working correctly, i.e If the Right slingshot is hit the knocker sounds and the right bumper will trigger the ball trough.
Any help would be appreciated

That sounds like a blown or missing diode in the coil chain. Follow the wires from coil to coil. Betting the coil either before or after the slingshot has a bad diode.

#706 3 months ago

Could also be switch / connector issues. See what happens in coil test vs. Pressing the switches

#707 3 months ago
Quoted from Marv:

Solenoids don't seem to be working correctly, i.e If the Right slingshot is hit the knocker sounds and the right bumper will trigger the ball trough.

Sounds possible that the solenoid data lines are missing a bit--possibly due to bad solder joint or bad connector. I would make sure the male and female connectors at J4 on the MPU and J4 on the SDU have both been re-pinned/re-flowed/replaced, as they carry the solenoid data between the MPU and SDU. If one or more bits are missing, it can cause weird behavior/incorrect coils firing.

#708 3 months ago

I got the probe out and tested U2 on the SDU and pin 23 isn't pulsing. I've ordered a replacement.

2 weeks later
#709 84 days ago

Do these roms get bitrot or something, i've not had a battery in there (was waiting on a memory cap) and the ram won't clear now. All the displays show 22, it was working before. I'm sure i remember reading something about it corrupting the code if there is no battery?

1 month later
#710 47 days ago

I have a question for Seawitch owners. On your game can you soft plunge to the “5000 3 Advance” lane? On some games the ball naturally travels to the left of the shooter lane on a soft plunge and then comes back down through the “5000 3 Advance” lane. On the game I have the ball always stays straight and can never falls down that lane. I’m wondering what the correct behavior should be. Anyone know or have opinions?

#711 47 days ago
Quoted from kickabit:

I have a question for Seawitch owners. On your game can you soft plunge to the “5000 3 Advance” lane? On some games the ball naturally travels to the left of the shooter lane on a soft plunge and then comes back down through the “5000 3 Advance” lane. On the game I have the ball always stays straight and can never falls down that lane. I’m wondering what the correct behavior should be. Anyone know or have opinions?

I saw that being done on a tournament video. I was always wondering where the skill shot was on this pin. So I started trying to shoot this way and figured out it is a waste of time. By the time you make that shot---if you even make it at all---I can blast the ball around the orbit and drop 5 drop targets for 1000 points each and have a good game going.

#712 41 days ago

When one of y’all are ready to sell......

2 weeks later
#713 20 days ago

Seawitch tests selling over the next week with white arrows. Yellow ones in production now.

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#714 17 days ago

Seawitch playfields! ... Yaaay!!!
Definately be down for one of those!

Came here to put up a vid of a mod that I came up with to improve loops flow:

There are a few other vids on the channel...

#715 17 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

improve loops flow

Just watched 5 minutes, and noticed nothing. Need help here.

* what is the problem that the mod solves?
* what is the mod?
* when in the video (timestamp) is the mod working?

thanks
-mof

#716 17 days ago
Quoted from mof:

Just watched 5 minutes, and noticed nothing. Need help here.
* what is the problem that the mod solves?
* what is the mod?
* when in the video (timestamp) is the mod working?
thanks
-mof

Ahhh, sorry!

No worries.... I guess it isn't obvious for anyone not familiar with Seawitch.

It is just the loop/shooter diverter.

Original is a thin shim flap. This is very "bouncy" and messes up orbits in both directions. Spinner shots would usually rattle against the exposed wood rail and dribble straight back down and stop the spinner run. Orbits going left to right the ball would deflect from the metal flap and spring the ball out making it hard to reach/hit as it passes down across the upper right flipper, but some distance away from the flippers face.

The mod is a Rigid diverter, allowing the loops to flow smoothly in both directions. I also moved a post on the Left side about 3/16" (not too far so that the original plastic is still utilised without modification), which makes orbits "achievable" from the upper and lower right flippers. Any spinner shot now very rarely rattles to fall straight back down and prematurely stop the spinner, instead now the loop runs all the way around and the spinner has a chance to "spin out".

The mod is operating frequently throughout all 5 videos. Any time there is a launch, or any orbit in either direction. Anyone familiar with typical factory Seawitch flow would likely notice the difference in game flow in these videos. Frequent loops, loop combos, not generally a feature of gameplay for this old Stern layout!

A couple of points...
0:56 in first vid is a loop combo.
3:20 in the second vid is one of the spinner shots.

Similar to some of the flow improvment for Beatles gameplay, but much more subtle and bolts on.

#717 17 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

familiar with Seawitch.

Pretty dang familiar with Seawitch.
Cliffy has the thicker stainless steel shooter lane flap for sale.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/seawitch-stainless-steel-ball-guides/page/2#post-4385844
I have it on mine.
Mof

#718 17 days ago
Quoted from mof:

Pretty dang familiar with Seawitch.
Cliffy has the thicker part for sale.
I have it on mine.
Mof

Oh, I figured anyone familliar with Seawitch would have noticed the difference in orbit flow. Anyway...

Does the cliffy idea still scrape the crap out of the playfield like my original was doing?

Had never heard of the cliffy mod. Does it go all the way up to the loop ball guide? (to cover the exposed wooden siderail where all the spinner rattles used to happen?)

Wrapped with how this turned out anyway, game is Much more playable and enjoyable without the rattly bouncy nonsense.

#719 16 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Came here to put up a vid of a mod that I came up with to improve loops flow:

I was tinkering with some ideas to improve the design there too but never came up with anything i was completely satisfied with. Any chance you would want to make another to sell?

#720 16 days ago
Quoted from frunch:

I was tinkering with some ideas to improve the design there too but never came up with anything i was completely satisfied with. Any chance you would want to make another to sell?

It's just a 5mm SS rail on a hinge, spring loaded. Cut to a wedge-like end, so it blends nicely with the orbit ball guide.

Could get someone local to make the same. Problem I see is that these games can vary a little in dimension, like from the two screw holes in PF to where the orbit guide begins. I couldn't guarantee proper fit to an unknown copy...

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Two prototypes so far. The single rail design is what's in the videos. The double rail version carried too much weight to function correctly, especially with the ceramic ball.

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#721 16 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Oh, I figured anyone familliar with Seawitch would have noticed the difference in orbit flow. Anyway...

Sorry. With your camera placed 10 feet away from the pin combined with I am looking with my cell phone, it is not obvious.

It looks interesting. But some close up pics, unless you are trying to keep a secret, would be nice to see.

#722 16 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Sorry. With your camera placed 10 feet away from the pin combined with I am looking with my cell phone, it is not obvious.
It looks interesting. But some close up pics, unless you are trying to keep a secret, would be nice to see.

Yeah just wanted to get the scores in there. Thanks for the feedback! ... I'll get some better footage a bit closer up .

Sharing the idea so that other Seawitch owners can benefit... it has almost completely eliminated rejects from the right orbit, and gives a nice smooth flow. Still want to tweak the bottom end, protruding a little to far I think.

Not too hard for any fitter or welder to knock up.

Also determined to get a game recorded with spinner maxed and ripped!

#723 16 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Could get someone local to make the same. Problem I see is that these games can vary a little in dimension, like from the two screw holes in PF to where the orbit guide begins. I couldn't guarantee proper fit to an unknown copy...

Some people will have an issue if a new hole has to be drilled into the play field; Some won’t.

I incorporated a launch ramp from a Beatles pin that required drilling two new holes in the shooter lane and some had issue with that.

The challenge will be how to point out to someone just where it will need to be located for the proper fit and action.

What kind of spring are using? Expansion spring or torsion spring?

#724 16 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Some people will have an issue if a new hole has to be drilled into the play field; Some won’t.
I incorporated a launch ramp from a Beatles pin that required drilling two new holes in the shooter lane and some had issue with that.
The challenge will be how to point out to someone just where it will need to be located for the proper fit and action.
What kind of spring are using? Expansion spring or torsion spring?

An extension spring from a grab kit.

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I guess a tortion spring could be a bit cleaner looking. That would make it more fiddly, and perhaps less robust. My welding practice is about rookie level Lol ... I tried to make it as tidy looking as I could... there is plans for final refinements and improvments.

At least one, the pivot pin position needs to come in, more into line with the two screws.

Also, there are no new holes for the diverter. Moving the post at the entry to left loop is not required. It just makes bottom flipper left orbits possible. The new hole comes inside the footprint of the star post. 5.5mm. The unused hole does stay covered.

#725 16 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

An extension spring from a grab kit.
[quoted image]
I guess a tortion spring could be a bit cleaner looking. That would make it more fiddly, and perhaps less robust. My welding practice is about rookie level Lol ... I tried to make it as tidy looking as I could... there is plans for final refinements and improvments.

This looks very similar to Sorcerer’s shooter lane diverter. Williams put the torsion spring under the playfield.

#726 16 days ago
Quoted from kickabit:

This looks very similar to Sorcerer’s shooter lane diverter. Williams put the torsion spring under the playfield.

I like that idea... I did want to do it without drilling the playfield, and so that it was reversible, though.

#727 16 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

An extension spring from a grab kit.
[quoted image]
I guess a tortion spring could be a bit cleaner looking. That would make it more fiddly, and perhaps less robust. My welding practice is about rookie level Lol ... I tried to make it as tidy looking as I could... there is plans for final refinements and improvments.
At least one, the pivot pin position needs to come in, more into line with the two screws.
Also, there are no new holes for the diverter. Moving the post at the entry to left loop is not required. It just makes bottom flipper left orbits possible. The new hole comes inside the footprint of the star post. 5.5mm. The unused hole does stay covered.

A torsion spring would look neater but would not really be practical. Finding a replacement expansion spring would be much easier than trying to replace a broken torsion spring.

You have the ability to weld. That is a big advantage

It looks good. Maybe some refinement needed, but it looks good.

If you could find an economical way to add an adjustable spring tensioner ...

#728 14 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

A torsion spring would look neater but would not really be practical. Finding a replacement expansion spring would be much easier than trying to replace a broken torsion spring.
You have the ability to weld. That is a big advantage
It looks good. Maybe some refinement needed, but it looks good.
If you could find an economical way to add an adjustable spring tensioner ...

I have some alterations I'm working on that will allow a better alignment with the spinner rubber guide. I think the most practical way to adjust tension is simply by spring selection.

Here is a coloser video of the existing version demonstrating some orbits.

#729 14 days ago

Looking to buy a Seawitch, any condition considered. Very interested in a project game that needs work and parts. Please let me know if you have something available.

#730 13 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

I have some alterations I'm working on that will allow a better alignment with the spinner rubber guide. I think the most practical way to adjust tension is simply by spring selection.
Here is a coloser video of the existing version demonstrating some orbits.

Looks good, man! Count me in if you decide to make some more of em!

Gotta admit it never crossed my mind to throw a power Ball into my Seawitch. I might have to finally treat myself to one....

#731 8 days ago

Finally getting a chance to load some pics of the Seawitch I picked up a little while back. A bit rough -- no backglass and a playfield that is just a bit worn.

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I found a crackly backglass at the Cleveland Show; its a bit easier to look at now.

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Noticed there was an extra transformer looking unit in the bottom cabinet -- seems this witch originated in Canada.

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Right now the game lives in my garage; it gives me something to play in between burger flips on the grill. I figure I cannot hurt it too much more in its current condition.

#732 8 days ago

looking to joint the Seawitch club if anyone has one or has a lead in the midwest. Thanks!

#733 8 days ago

There are discount Seawitch playfields available under $500 US shipped to USA still. F-H at this time.

#734 8 days ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

Finally getting a chance to load some pics of the Seawitch I picked up a little while back. A bit rough -- no backglass and a playfield that is just a bit worn.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I found a crackly backglass at the Cleveland Show; its a bit easier to look at now.
[quoted image]
Noticed there was an extra transformer looking unit in the bottom cabinet -- seems this witch originated in Canada.
[quoted image]
Right now the game lives in my garage; it gives me something to play in between burger flips on the grill. I figure I cannot hurt it too much more in its current condition.

You are really starting to get the Sterns in your blood and have been rounding up some nice examples to work with.

P.S. I call dibs on those 4 red drop targets if you would like to replace them They look like Dragonfist red drop targets.

#735 8 days ago

Does anyone have a file or measurements on the plastic add-on to stop the ball going on the plastic?

#736 7 days ago
Quoted from Marv:

Does anyone have a file or measurements on the plastic add-on to stop the ball going on the plastic?

Something that is about 3/4" inch // 25 mm high. Bend and form so you can screw it down on the post studs.
==========================================

Or do this: Cut a piece of .020 clear polycarbonate/ Lexan to match the profile of the plastic and also add some extra material over the top of the flipper. This small area of plastic over the flipper has stopped my problem and it looks cleaner that having a piece of material sitting on top of the plastic and acting like a dam.

It sits under the plastic and needs no mounting brackets.

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