(Topic ID: 61134)

Official Seawitch Fan Club ... All Welcome


By DirtySouth

5 years ago



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  • 708 posts
  • 99 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 days ago by Marv
  • Topic is favorited by 36 Pinsiders

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There are 708 posts in this topic. You are on page 14 of 15.
#651 3 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

My plan is to bring Seawich to TPF. If you are going, then check out my shooter setup. It is not going to knock you out but I think you will appreciate it.

Ahhh, that was your seawitch. Thank you for bringing it, never played one before that.
And yes, I did like it better then the beat time . Went back to it like 5 or 6 times.

I'll probably be on the look out for one after finishing a few more of my project pins.

#652 87 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Lower flippers J-25-475/34-4500

Finally had time to see what flipper coils someone had put on my game. Both of them as I suspected were incorrect.
New ones on order already from Pinball Life.
My left coil is a J-25-500/34-5050
Right coil is a A-24-570/34-3600

#653 81 days ago

Got both new flipper coils in the mail today.
Installed left one perfectly. Works great.

But of course the pinball gods must throw a monkey wrench in to make things fun.
When I took photos of the right coil wiring so I could carefully label them, I failed to notice that the previous owner had put the coil in the bracket upside down so that the lugs were at the coil stop end. Arrrrgh.

So naturally when I put the new coil in place I put it in correctly without thinking. This flips lugs 1 and 3 to the opposite sides.
I fired the game up, tested left flipper, perfect.
Tested right flipper and immediately blew the F4 fuse on the power distribution board. Again Arrrrrgh.
Ran out of time to flip the coil over and re-wire so I will have to do that tomorrow.
Any chance I blew the diodes on the new coil as well, or should I be good to go just turning it around?

#654 81 days ago

I'd think the diode would be fine but you might as well check it while you've got the iron out right?

#655 80 days ago

Luckily nothing bad happened but the fuse blowing.
Got the wires swapped out on lugs 1 and 3 and we are good to go.

#656 79 days ago

And back to bad on my right Flipper.
It worked great for one game then suddenly started getting weaker and weaker until it won’t flip it or the upper right Flipper anymore.
What the hell?
If I tap the right Flipper button very fast it will try to flip but if I press it normal or hold it in, nothing.
I should have just left well enough alone.
Now I have gone from working game to not working game.
I have cleaned all contacts on button and end of strike, made sure they are still adjusted correctly but nothing helps.

2 weeks later
#657 62 days ago

Selling a beautiful (mostly original) Seawitch in the marketplace

Archived after 33 days
476 views
Not sold: Decided to keep game
Machine - For Sale
Seawitch Archived
Partially shopped/refurbished “Selling my 1980 Stern SEAWITCH This machine is in excellent original condition. The cabinet shows beautifully with only minor nicks around the head and great colors. The playfiel...”
2019-04-23
Toronto, ON
3,500 (Firm)

#658 58 days ago

Turns out my problem with the right Flipper was that the Flipper button leaf switch was toast. New switch installed and we are flipping good again.

I was curious while looking at my drop target coils. Are they supposed to have a return spring like the flippers or do they just use gravity to pull the bar back down?

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#659 58 days ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Turns out my problem with the right Flipper was that the Flipper button leaf switch was toast. New switch installed and we are flipping good again.
I was curious while looking at my drop target coils. Are they supposed to have a return spring like the flippers or do they just use gravity to pull the bar back down?[quoted image]

Your drops are fine. No spring needed.

#660 56 days ago

Looking for a seawitch apron that's in better shape than my current one.
If anyone has parted out a playfield and has a spare, please let me know.

The decals available for restoring one are way off on the dark blue.

Thank!

#661 55 days ago
Quoted from Drano:

Looking for a seawitch apron that's in better shape than my current one.
If anyone has parted out a playfield and has a spare, please let me know.
The decals available for restoring one are way off on the dark blue.
Thank!

the guys reproducing the classic bally aprons are supposedly going to go the same route with the classic sterns. my understanding is that it's just a matter of time

#662 54 days ago

Did a solid cleaning, wax, and lights on my newly squires seawitch. Man this is a beautiful game when it’s all cleaned up!! It really makes me want to do a full out restore on this thing

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1 week later
#663 44 days ago

Got tired of waiting for someone to make me something clear and plasticky, so I made this with the wire bendy kit from Marco's. It was a pain. I'll report back on whether or not it works. Hoping replacing the drop targets in the 4 bank might help as well but I can't find the damned "s" stickers I ordered a billion years ago >

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#664 44 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Got tired of waiting for someone to make me something clear and plasticky, so I made this with the wire bendy kit from Marco's. It was a pain. I'll report back on whether or not it works. Hoping replacing the drop targets in the 4 bank might help as well but I can't find the damned "s" stickers I ordered a billion years ago >
[quoted image]

You would be better off finding a set of original stern drops. The repros don't seem to work as well.

#665 44 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Got tired of waiting for someone to make me something clear and plasticky, so I made this with the wire bendy kit from Marco's. It was a pain. I'll report back on whether or not it works. Hoping replacing the drop targets in the 4 bank might help as well but I can't find the damned "s" stickers I ordered a billion years ago >
[quoted image]

I suggest that you rebuild the drop target bank; clean the drops, replace the springs, adjust the arm, etc so that it functions 100%. There are some tips in recent posts in the classic Stern forum. Then buy new stickers from tractordoc Pinside shop.

#666 43 days ago
Quoted from dasvis:

You would be better off finding a set of original stern drops. The repros don't seem to work as well.

I installed a new set of repros before I ever played my Seawitch.

I don’t have any problems with the way they work.

In what way do they not work as well as originals?

#667 43 days ago

The only issue I'm having with the drops is they will cause airballs that go part the upper flipper and wedge between the glass and plastic in that area. The only way to get it out is to remove the glass which causes the ball to roll down the plastic, in my case cracking it. This was done a long time before I got the machine. Mine has the repro drops in it now that have the flat lip that does not extend any further side to side. I'm hoping replacing it with the newer repros with the side extensions (to reduce stucky balls) will somehow help the issue. I've made the drop height perfectly level with the playfield top so I might be working towards a lost cause but I figured I'd try it.

I found my decals from Doc and was disappointed they're only the "s" with no background white. It's easy to line up a square, I have to figure out how to put these on without it looking like a 3rd grade art project.

#668 43 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

The only issue I'm having with the drops is they will cause airballs that go part the upper flipper and wedge between the glass and plastic in that area. The only way to get it out is to remove the glass which causes the ball to roll down the plastic, in my case cracking it. This was done a long time before I got the machine. Mine has the repro drops in it now that have the flat lip that does not extend any further side to side. I'm hoping replacing it with the newer repros with the side extensions (to reduce stucky balls) will somehow help the issue. I've made the drop height perfectly level with the playfield top so I might be working towards a lost cause but I figured I'd try it.
I found my decals from Doc and was disappointed they're only the "s" with no background white. It's easy to line up a square, I have to figure out how to put these on without it looking like a 3rd grade art project.

Funny. I have always called them lightning bolt targets. Had no idea those were supposed to be S’s

#669 43 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

The only issue I'm having with the drops is they will cause airballs that go part the upper flipper and wedge between the glass and plastic in that area. The only way to get it out is to remove the glass which causes the ball to roll down the plastic, in my case cracking it. This was done a long time before I got the machine. Mine has the repro drops in it now that have the flat lip that does not extend any further side to side. I'm hoping replacing it with the newer repros with the side extensions (to reduce stucky balls) will somehow help the issue. I've made the drop height perfectly level with the playfield top so I might be working towards a lost cause but I figured I'd try it.
I found my decals from Doc and was disappointed they're only the "s" with no background white. It's easy to line up a square, I have to figure out how to put these on without it looking like a 3rd grade art project.

The plastic had been broken on my Witch for the same reason long before I bought it.

I had the same problem. I think it will happen no matter what drops you are using.

Even the new Beatles pin will pop the ball back over that plastic but since newer cabinet locates the glass farther away from the play field the ball just harmlessly rolls back on the table.

Salvage the bracket material from a couple of worn #44 bulb sockets and get a small strip of sheet metal (from a tuna fish can if you have to ) 3/4” high and get some hollow rivets from Steve at PBR. I’d you can’t get the rivets then some #4 screws and nuts should work. Slip some black or silver paint on and you are good to go.

For Doc’s stickers, get a fine tip Sharpie marker and a machinist’s scale and measure for the center-point on the face of your drop targets. Then eyeball the stickers on straight.

I did this for the nine numbers for my Big Game and they look fantastic.

#670 43 days ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Funny. I have always called them lightning bolt targets. Had no idea those were supposed to be S’s

I think you're probably right and I'm wrong

^^^ first time this has ever been said on pinside

cottonm4 I know that was an option too but I really wanted something less visually obstructive. Using old sockets for the brackets is brilliant, I would have cut and bent sheet metal. I could have gotten a little more elegant with my rail but I used the thickest wire that came with the kit and it was a pain to work with. Probably overkill and I could have made something nicer with a thinner gauge. The clearance between ball and plastic is also so small I probably could have just made it about a 1/4" rise. In any case, I had folks over Saturday night and so far so good with 0 balls jammed over the plastic.

#671 42 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

I think you're probably right and I'm wrong
^^^ first time this has ever been said on pinside
cottonm4 I know that was an option too but I really wanted something less visually obstructive. Using old sockets for the brackets is brilliant, I would have cut and bent sheet metal. I could have gotten a little more elegant with my rail but I used the thickest wire that came with the kit and it was a pain to work with. Probably overkill and I could have made something nicer with a thinner gauge. The clearance between ball and plastic is also so small I probably could have just made it about a 1/4" rise. In any case, I had folks over Saturday night and so far so good with 0 balls jammed over the plastic.

Lol.
They are calling them S stand ups on the sale sights so I will roll with it.

#672 42 days ago

I had to make a clear plastic protector above the left upper flipper to guard against air balls
I have had that in for years without an issue. I think this game is prone to air balls if dialed in and clean. I can take a picture if anyone is interested. I just used a couple posts as spacers and a clear piece of plastic.

Mike

#674 42 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

I think you're probably right and I'm wrong
^^^ first time this has ever been said on pinside
cottonm4 I know that was an option too but I really wanted something less visually obstructive. Using old sockets for the brackets is brilliant, I would have cut and bent sheet metal. I could have gotten a little more elegant with my rail but I used the thickest wire that came with the kit and it was a pain to work with. Probably overkill and I could have made something nicer with a thinner gauge. The clearance between ball and plastic is also so small I probably could have just made it about a 1/4" rise. In any case, I had folks over Saturday night and so far so good with 0 balls jammed over the plastic.

Well Chalkey, you galvanized me into action regarding a Seawitch ball control item. I figure there had to be another way to skin this cat.

This is my aluminum ball stop bracket that I made awhile back. For this bracket I used some light socket strap to make my attachment brackets. THe bracket itself is a soft hand formable aluminum.

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But it has all gone away now. I have made a clear hood that is above the left upper flipper. I think this will contain the ball quite handily. After doing some play testing I may have to make a 2nd unit with a different profile; I might have to add a little more material This is very thin polycarbonate that measures .010" thick/ or thin. Poly is essentially unbreakable so I think the .010" thinness will work in fine form.
============================

Making the marks on my plastic. The pic is not clear but it is showing the bottom end of the plastic.

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Here it is installed. You can see the hood but it hides in plain site fairly well.

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I'll play test it for a little while. If need be, I make extend the hood a little farther out from the flipper.

#675 42 days ago

I was envisioning something exactly like your aluminum bracket, but made out of clear plastic. I'm not sure your other one will work for the issue I'm having which is balls becoming airborne at the drops. Is that poly heat formable to make it stand up?

#676 42 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

I was envisioning something exactly like your aluminum bracket,
but made out of clear plastic. I'm not sure your other one will
work for the issue I'm having which is balls becoming airborne at
the drops. Is that poly heat formable to make it stand up?

I had one of clear plastic. It was not rigid enough so I had to make at least 12" long so I could lock it down with more posts holes.

The aluminum one works great but it is obtrusive. It does not hide well, at all.

I'm not sure this new one will work, either, so I will play test it for a bit.

This poly is .010" thin. You can bend it; You can roll it. With .010, you can bend it while cold.

If my new one does not work, I will cut another one with a longer hood. And then I can bend the hood back about 70 degrees and make it stand up. And it will still be almost invisible.

#677 42 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Well Chalkey, you galvanized me into action regarding a Seawitch
ball control item. I figure there had to be another way to skin
this cat.
This is my aluminum ball stop bracket that I made awhile
back. For this bracket I used some light socket strap to make my
attachment brackets. THe bracket itself is a soft hand formable
aluminum.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
But it has all gone away now. I have made a clear hood that
is above the left upper flipper. I think this will contain the ball
quite handily. After doing some play testing I may have to make a
2nd unit with a different profile; I might have to add a little
more material This is very thin polycarbonate that measures .010"
thick/ or thin. Poly is essentially unbreakable so I think the
.010" thinness will work in fine form.
============================
Making the marks on my plastic. The pic is not clear but it
is showing the bottom end of the plastic.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Here it is installed. You can see the hood but it hides in
plain site fairly well.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I'll play test it for a little while. If need be, I make
extend the hood a little farther out from the flipper.

My Seawitch has an "S" shaped guard almost identical to your
aluminum one.... except mine is made from clear plastic.
I got it years ago from another Pinsider. He also used two
metal tabs but he custom cut and heat-bent the plastic guide and
then attached it to the two tabs with rivets. It looks great and
you barely notice it. He even tapered the plastic ends down so there are no
harsh straight cut edges.

I'll try and remember to snap a shot of it tonight.
I wish I could recall who made it

#678 40 days ago

I was about to claim victory, then this happened. It's never gotten stuck so high!

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#679 38 days ago

Here are some photos of the clear plastic guard on my machine. Wish I could recall who made it.

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#680 38 days ago

Never had that issue on my Seawitch

#681 38 days ago

dasvis what style drops do you have? You never have airballs off the drops? Starting to think maybe it's a combination with the drops and maybe a slightly sunken insert or something.

#682 38 days ago

New from PBR - though I have had issue with them not always staying up when resetting. They seem to be made of a little softer material than the OEM units.

#683 38 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

dasvis what style drops do you have? You never have airballs off the drops? Starting to think maybe it's a combination with the drops and maybe a slightly sunken insert or something.

The ball is not bouncing off the drops. It is bouncing off of the flipper.

#684 38 days ago

The upper flipper? I'm not tracking cuz if that's what you're seeing the ball is on the playfield, gets hit with the upper flipper then magics itself back behind it?

#685 38 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

The upper flipper? I'm not tracking cuz if that's what you're seeing the ball is on the playfield, gets hit with the upper flipper then magics itself back behind it?

Every one of my Sterns has the habit of having a ball bounce over a bottom flipper every one in a while. That upper flipper gets a lot of kickback from those middle drop targets. With the right bounce over it goes.

#686 37 days ago
Quoted from Drano:

Here are some photos of the clear plastic guard on my machine. Wish I could recall who made it.[quoted image][quoted image]

drano Slim2013 is the guy you got it from.

You guys can PM him for one.

#687 36 days ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Never had that issue on my Seawitch

I have a Williams lightning flipper up there on mine, perhaps that helps.
-mof

#688 35 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Every one of my Sterns has the habit of having a ball bounce over a bottom flipper every one in a while. That upper flipper gets a lot of kickback from those middle drop targets. With the right bounce over it goes.

Perhaps placing 1-2 nylon washers on the flipper shaft just to raise the bat about 1/8" would help prevent this?
I can't imagine it would have a huge impact on the flipper's ability to function normally and it will definitley narrow the gap slightly.
I've also heard of guys using taller posts or spacers to raise the plastic behind the flipper... but I don't like the idea of using the plastic as your first line of defense.

1 week later
#689 26 days ago

New member of the club. #2433 was picked up over the weekend.

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#691 26 days ago

Use the Steve Kulpa guide linked, cross reference the schematics if necessary. I'll get you a photo when I get home if you need it.

#692 26 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Use the Steve Kulpa guide linked, cross reference the schematics if necessary. I'll get you a photo when I get home if you need it.

Looked there but it looks back to front, if you could do a photo that would be great - cheers!

#693 26 days ago
Quoted from Spyder138:

New member of the club. #2433 was picked up over the weekend.[quoted image][quoted image]

Ugh, pull those LED's out & get incandescent bulbs in there

#694 26 days ago

Here you go.

IMG_1104 (resized).jpg

#695 26 days ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Ugh, pull those LED's out & get incandescent bulbs in there

While I agree the photo is a bit to blue use what you like.
I use Comet white sunlight and the game looks great with none of the heat on my backglass and plastics.

#696 26 days ago
Quoted from Arcade:

While I agree the photo is a bit to blue use what you like.
I use Comet white sunlight and the game looks great with none of the heat on my backglass and plastics.

What I have noticed about LEDs is that they are not photogenic. A couple of my pins look great with LEDs but if I posted pics here everybody would have fit.

#697 26 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

What I have noticed about LEDs is that they are not photogenic. A couple of my pins look great with LEDs but if I posted pics here everybody would have fit.

This is most certainly true.

#698 25 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

What I have noticed about LEDs is that they are not photogenic. A couple of my pins look great with LEDs but if I posted pics here everybody would have fit.

True, but the abrupt on/off of LED's is what turns me off to them. For the older games, I prefer the incandescent bulbs.
The subtle fade in & out just looks right. I don't feel that heat is an issue in a home use game.

But to each their own, LED's are not a permanent hack.

#699 25 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

What I have noticed about LEDs is that they are not photogenic. A couple of my pins look great with LEDs but if I posted pics here everybody would have fit.

The photo definitely looks more blue than it does in person. I actually really like the blue displays and the lower voltage use. I will leave the blue LEDs on the play field for now and then figure out if I want to swap everything over to LED (blue and/or white), go back to incandescent, or leave as is with a mix of both. I am just stoked to finally own the machine.

#700 25 days ago
Quoted from Spyder138:

The photo definitely looks more blue than it does in person. I actually really like the blue displays and the lower voltage use. I will leave the blue LEDs on the play field for now and then figure out if I want to swap everything over to LED (blue and/or white), go back to incandescent, or leave as is with a mix of both. I am just stoked to finally own the machine.

On my Seawitch, I used all incandescent bulbs, but used blue "condoms" on parts of the upper playfield as the plain 47's that peeked out under the plastics were too bright.

http://www.pbresource.com/lampcov.html

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