Chesterfield, VA
I'm really surprised people think that's a good idea. I would be really bummed if I was going to buy a seawitch with a nice playfield and someone had drilled holes in it for this reason.
(Topic ID: 61134)
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Quoted from Chalkey:I'm really surprised people think that's a good idea. I would be really bummed if I was going to buy a seawitch with a nice playfield and someone had drilled holes in it for this reason.
Only two holes drilled in the shooter lane for the ramp.
The ball guide has two brackets that install to two post holes drilled from factory.
Quoted from Arcade:Awesome news. Can’t wait to see the finished product in action.
Will this be doable by everyone if correct ball guide is provided by someone?
If I can get my hardware store to order some more aluminum strip I can make more ball guides.
Given the vagaries in different play fields you might have to redrill the two post holes for fitment. Although I may be able to oversize the holes in the two brackets to allow for adjustment.
I’ll know more when I get it completed.
Quoted from cottonm4:Only two holes drilled in the shooter lane
It's just me. You guys can do whatever you want with your games and enjoy them to the fullest and that part makes me happy. Drilling permanent holes in the playfield... it just doesn't compute and brings a tear to my eye.
Wellesley, ON
Quoted from cottonm4:It's going to work. I got my metal ball guide built this afternoon. I have some fine tuning and clean up to do, but the guide will let you bang the upper right flipper for a clockwise orbit shot.
It is going to work !!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
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If this works well you should contact cliffy or mantis and see it they will make a kit with the guide and the ramp.
Quoted from Mitch:If this works well you should contact cliffy or mantis and see it they will make a kit with the guide and the ramp.
I’m still working on getting the part number for the loop guide from Stern.
Im hoping to get see a Beatles at TPF this year. I’m thinking the proper Stern loop guide would make easier to locate the ramp.
There needs to be a fool proof way to correctly locate the ramp before a kit could hit the big time.
Quoted from Mitch:If this works well you should contact cliffy or mantis and see it they will make a kit with the guide and the ramp.
I would be in for that. My playfield is just average at best, extra holes are no big deal to me.
Quoted from dasvis:I would be in for that. My playfield is just average at best, extra holes are no big deal to me.
Same here.
I added spinners to my brand new Metallica Pro. That was a bit scary to drill.
I would have no problem with two tiny shooter lane holes in my crappy Seawitch Playfield to vastly improve gameplay. 
Quoted from Shenanigander:I just tried seigecraft adapters for the 1st time and LED'd my entire game. They work good. I will use again for sure. Much cheaper than buying a whole new lamp driver.[quoted image]
Yup. I’ve got more of those kits than I can count at this point. Good stuff
Quoted from cottonm4:If I can get my hardware store to order some more aluminum strip I can make more ball guides.
Given the vagaries in different play fields you might have to redrill the two post holes for fitment. Although I may be able to oversize the holes in the two brackets to allow for adjustment.
I’ll know more when I get it completed.
OK. I'm up and running with my ramp and ball guide.
The ball guide works good. It works very good. Every orbit shot that comes down comes right in front the flipper. The trouble is, depending on your point of view, is that ball comes around fast. You need to be like lightning on the right hand flipper button. It is not a shot for wimps. Even in a good session, the Seawitch orbit shots are no piece of cake. I thought having a straighter shot, as opposed to that flap gate business, would make for smoother, cleaner orbit shots.
Yes, you can make the loop shot. And yes, or no, it is not easy. Shooting that left hand orbit is a tuffy.
That said, I like the setup and am not interested in returning for the flap gate.
Pictures:
Ramp and guide:
The material I used to make the guide is some 3/4" aluminum strip I got at hardware store. It is rigid but also flexible and can have curves formed by hand. The ramp exit point measures 1/2" high so I had to remove an area of material from the guide to allow the balls to pass over the top.
Ramp and guide located:
The ball guide nests on top of a flange on the ramp. Here is where I messed up when starting this project. I tried to locate the ramp first. That is the backward way to do this. The trick is to locate the guide first. And then slide the ramp flange underneath; This way gets the ramp at the proper location. After that, the challenge is to get the ramp positioned to line up with the shooter lane for a good ball launch. To help with alignment I had to use my Dremel Tool and grind out a line of wood in the rail and let the ramp move further to the right.
For right now, I pulled a small nail that holds the loop ball guide to the rail and tucked my prototype guide underneath.
The guide sits just a little above the flipper and the ball exits right in front of the flipper.
To be continued in next post : Managing photos in pinside is a challenge .
IMG_9569 (resized).JPGQuoted from cottonm4:OK. I'm up and running with my ramp and ball guide.
The ball guide works good. It works very good. Every orbit shot that comes down comes right in front the flipper. The trouble is, depending on your point of view, is that ball comes around fast. You need to be like lightning on the right hand flipper button. It is not a shot for wimps. Even in a good session, the Seawitch orbit shots are no piece of cake. I thought having a straighter shot, as opposed to that flap gate business, would make for smoother, cleaner orbit shots.
Yes, you can make the loop shot. And yes, or no, it is not easy. Shooting that left hand orbit is a tuffy.
That said, I like the setup and am not interested in returning for the flap gate.
Pictures:
Ramp and guide:
The material I used to make the guide is some 3/4" aluminum strip I got at hardware store. It is rigid but also flexible and can have curves formed by hand. The ramp exit point measures 1/2" high so I had to remove an area of material from the guide to allow the balls to pass over the top.
[quoted image]
Ramp and guide located:
[quoted image]
The ball guide nests on top of a flange on the ramp. Here is where I messed up when starting this project. I tried to locate the ramp first. That is the backward way to do this. The trick is to locate the guide first. And then slide the ramp flange underneath; This way gets the ramp at the proper location. After that, the challenge is to get the ramp positioned to line up with the shooter lane for a good ball launch. To help with alignment I had to use my Dremel Tool and grind out a line of wood in the rail and let the ramp move further to the right.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
For right now, I pulled a small nail that holds the loop ball guide to the rail and tucked my prototype guide underneath.
[quoted image]
The guide sits just a little above the flipper and the ball exits right in front of the flipper.
[quoted image]
To be continued in next post : Managing photos in pinside is a challenge . [quoted image]
My spinner had to be relocated. It was not straight from the factory. not at all.
I aimed to make the spinner square to the ball guide I made. I do get better spinner shots with straight on ball hit.
Out of all the pics of Beatles pin on the internet, there is not one good pic of a view of this ball guide.
In this 1st pic, you can see the ball guide sitting in front of the ramp. Just barely.
29672-the-beatles-pinball-machine-1964-targets (resized).jpg
this pic shows the back side of the ramp.
Beatles-Gold-Detail-13 (resized).jpg
Pinside is messing with the order of my pictures so I will stop here.
It will work. I still need to refine my shooter rod. My beehive is a little worn. I have to get it to shoot dead on or the shot waffles.
More later.
29681-the-beatles-pinball-machine-skill-shot (resized).jpgBeatles-Gold-Detail-13 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mitch:If this works well you should contact cliffy or mantis and see it they will make a kit with the guide and the ramp.
Once I get the loop guide part number from Stern (and I will) there would be no point to involve Mantis or Cliffy. They would both need a Stern part to measure from and use as a pattern.
The only reason to involve these two is if Stern will not sell the parts. I just bought the ramp so I'm thinking Stern likes taking in the money. For right now, anyway.
Quoted from cottonm4:Once I get the loop guide part number from Stern (and I will) there would be no point to involve Mantis or Cliffy. They would both need a Stern part to measure from and use as a pattern.
The only reason to involve these two is if Stern will not sell the parts. I just bought the ramp so I'm thinking Stern likes taking in the money. For right now, anyway.
Nice work. Keep er going cotton!
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:Yup. I’ve got more of those kits than I can count at this point. Good stuff
I think I will be implementing these more often!
Quoted from Shenanigander:Nice work. Keep er going cotton!
Thank you. I have managed to shoot one double loop tonight. No matter how I set it up, I don't think I will doing too many multi-loops like some of the Beatles playing guys have said they have gotten on the Beatles pin.
But it is nice to see that ball come down on a trajectory that looks like it was planned. And the only way I was able to square up the spinner is due to some space opening up with removal of the flap gate.
Quoted from cottonm4:Thank you. I have managed to shoot one double loop tonight. No matter how I set it up, I don't think I will doing too many multi-loops like some of the Beatles playing guys have said they have gotten on the Beatles pin.
But it is nice to see that ball come down on a trajectory that looks like it was planned. And the only way I was able to square up the spinner is due to some space opening up with removal of the flap gate.
& you won't. The Beatles pin geometry is slightly different & more favorable to loops.
Quoted from dasvis:& you won't. The Beatles pin geometry is slightly different & more favorable to loops.
Can you, or anyone, describe what is different with the geometry? Is it something with the orbit entry point that has changed? Will it be worth the effort to buy the Stern loop guide?
Quoted from cottonm4:Thank you. I have managed to shoot one double loop tonight. No matter how I set it up, I don't think I will doing too many multi-loops like some of the Beatles playing guys have said they have gotten on the Beatles pin.
But it is nice to see that ball come down on a trajectory that looks like it was planned. And the only way I was able to square up the spinner is due to some space opening up with removal of the flap gate.
Yes! That original design makes me sad.
Quoted from cottonm4:My spinner had to be relocated. It was not straight from the factory. not at all.
[quoted image]
I aimed to make the spinner square to the ball guide I made. I do get better spinner shots with straight on ball hit.
[quoted image]
Out of all the pics of Beatles pin on the internet, there is not one good pic of a view of this ball guide.
In this 1st pic, you can see the ball guide sitting in front of the ramp. Just barely.
[quoted image]
this pic shows the back side of the ramp.
[quoted image]
Pinside is messing with the order of my pictures so I will stop here.
It will work. I still need to refine my shooter rod. My beehive is a little worn. I have to get it to shoot dead on or the shot waffles.
More later.[quoted image][quoted image]
My contact at Stern has given me the part numbers.
The number for the guide in gray color is 535-1888-01. This for sure is the one you will need, unless you cobble something together as I have done.
The second part number, for the guide in green in the pic is 535-1888-07. We need to talk about this one.
So, to get all of the part numbers in on place:
1) shooter lane ball ramp........................535-1888-04. Known internally as Guide #4
2) ball loop guide...................................535-1888-01 I would assume this is Guide #1
3) skill shot gate bracket.........................535-1488-00
4) skill shot gate wire..............................535-1536-00
5) 535-1888-07 (I don't know what it is called. The green one, I guess). Even with my shooter mods I am going to need to make an upper guide as the ball will launch onto the plastic sometimes. So, I need something. But I am not sure this guide will fit under Seawitch's short play field glass without some sort of modification of cutting some material off of the top . I know I can make an effective guide for less than $10.00 and I will probably go with that.
If anyone decides to make this mod to their Seawitch they are going to need this upper ball guide or make one of their own.
Also, my little ball guide, that I made for around $10.00, seems to be working well so I will probably not be buying the loop guide. Since the ramp cost me $39.00 shipped I am guessing the ball loop guide will cost every bit of that. That's a lot of money for something that is probably not going to enhance game play very much, if any at all.
I'm not sorry I spent the money. I like fabricating things and fooling around. But to tell anyone that this is a must-have mod would be a lie. So far, I have managed to hit 4 or 5 double loop shots and I can not see much improvement when compared to the factory flap gate. But it looks cleaner, IMO.
The one big benefit from this exercise is that I was able to square up my spinner for better alignment with the lower left flipper trajectory. I never had noticed that the spinner was sitting off-angle to the flipper. And the reason it was located this way was to work around the flap gate mounting angle and its two attachment screws.
I have tell you, I never was impressed with the spinner on my Seawitch. It just never could gain momentum and get any kind of ripping action. I did nothing but square it up and I have been getting some decent spinner action.
I highly recommend that everybody try to square up their spinner. All you have to do is move the post forward a little bit and drill one new (worthwhile) hole. You will need to mod the post to allow it to fit over one the flap gate's bracket screws. And that screw will be hidden.
Good Luck.
Quoted from cottonm4:My contact at Stern has given me the part numbers.
The number for the guide in gray color is 535-1888-01. This for sure is the one you will need, unless you cobble something together as I have done.
The second part number, for the guide in green in the pic is 535-1888-07. We need to talk about this one.
So, to get all of the part numbers in on place:
1) shooter lane ball ramp........................535-1888-04. Known internally as Guide #4
2) ball loop guide...................................535-1888-01 I would assume this is Guide #1
3) skill shot gate bracket.........................535-1488-00
4) skill shot gate wire..............................535-1536-00
5) 535-1888-07 (I don't know what it is called. The green one, I guess). Even with my shooter mods I am going to need to make an upper guide as the ball will launch onto the plastic sometimes. So, I need something. But I am not sure this guide will fit under Seawitch's short play field glass without some sort of modification of cutting some material off of the top . I know I can make an effective guide for less than $10.00 and I will probably go with that.
[quoted image]
If anyone decides to make this mod to their Seawitch they are going to need this upper ball guide or make one of their own.
Also, my little ball guide, that I made for around $10.00, seems to be working well so I will probably not be buying the loop guide. Since the ramp cost me $39.00 shipped I am guessing the ball loop guide will cost every bit of that. That's a lot of money for something that is probably not going to enhance game play very much, if any at all.
I'm not sorry I spent the money. I like fabricating things and fooling around. But to tell anyone that this is a must-have mod would be a lie. So far, I have managed to hit 4 or 5 double loop shots and I can not see much improvement when compared to the factory flap gate. But it looks cleaner, IMO.
The one big benefit from this exercise is that I was able to square up my spinner for better alignment with the lower left flipper trajectory. I never had noticed that the spinner was sitting off-angle to the flipper. And the reason it was located this way was to work around the flap gate mounting angle and its two attachment screws.
I have tell you, I never was impressed with the spinner on my Seawitch. It just never could gain momentum and get any kind of ripping action. I did nothing but square it up and I have been getting some decent spinner action.
I highly recommend that everybody try to square up their spinner. All you have to do is move the post forward a little bit and drill one new (worthwhile) hole. You will need to mod the post to allow it to fit over one the flap gate's bracket screws. And that screw will be hidden.
Good Luck.
Very interesting read cotton!
I also had to adjust my spinner. The front edge of the slipper was "leaning" towards the ball and there was not much adjustment available for me to change this. I usually adjust the tension on the spinner switch under the playfield ie I will pull the switch down to pull on the spinner to try to straighten the spinner so it is more vertical. I did this as much as I could but it still would not go perfectly vertical.
I still could make spinner shots ok but the ball seemed to sort of clip the front edge of the spinner as it entered and did not seem smooth. I was not satisfied with the angle of the spinner or the cleanliness of the shot.
I took a look at other games I had and noticed that on my Flash Gordon and maybe my Stars (I forget now) the spinners were mounted on the shorter star posts. My Seawitch spinner was mounted on the taller star posts. I swapped the tall star posts out and put in the shorter ones to lower the spinner for a cleaner entrance. This also allowed for more manipulation of the spinner switch underneath so I was able to get the spinner to stand up more vertical.
The spinner still leans back a bit and I want to try to get it straighter but it works much better now!
I am curious now....are everyone's seawitch spinners mounted on tall or short star posts?
Any other spinner adjustment tips? I think I have tried everything. I think the balance of the spinner itself could be off and not much you can do in some cases?
20190130_122033 (resized).jpg20190130_122044 (resized).jpg20190130_122049 (resized).jpg20190130_122058 (resized).jpgQuoted from Shenanigander:Very interesting read cotton!
I also had to adjust my spinner. The front edge of the slipper was "leaning" towards the ball and there was not much adjustment available for me to change this. I usually adjust the tension on the spinner switch under the playfield ie I will pull the switch down to pull on the spinner to try to straighten the spinner so it is more vertical. I did this as much as I could but it still would not go perfectly vertical.
I still could make spinner shots ok but the ball seemed to sort of clip the front edge of the spinner as it entered and did not seem smooth. I was not satisfied with the angle of the spinner or the cleanliness of the shot.
I took a look at other games I had and noticed that on my Flash Gordon and maybe my Stars (I forget now) the spinners were mounted on the shorter star posts. My Seawitch spinner was mounted on the taller star posts. I swapped the tall star posts out and put in the shorter ones to lower the spinner for a cleaner entrance. This also allowed for more manipulation of the spinner switch underneath so I was able to get the spinner to stand up more vertical.
The spinner still leans back a bit and I want to try to get it straighter but it works much better now!
I am curious now....are everyone's seawitch spinners mounted on tall or short star posts?
Any other spinner adjustment tips? I think I have tried everything. I think the balance of the spinner itself could be off and not much you can do in some cases?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
My Big Game, Seawitch, and Dragonfist spinners are mounted on tall posts. My Catacomb is mounted on short posts. I had not noticed this. I am going to swap it to tall posts which is the opposite of what you just did with your Seawitch. The reason I want tall posts is that the ball only needs to make very small contact with the spinner to make it spin. If you leave yours on those short posts more of the lower area of your spinner is going to lose paint because of your now larger ball contact area. I'll have to get you pics of my worn out Catacomb spinner so can see.
The forward angle on your Witch spinner that you are speaking of is a problem I also have with my Seawitch and some times it can disturb the hit. That angle crap happened after I made some adjustments to the spinner wires. All I/you need to fix that is moved the spinner switch back on the underside of the play field, fill the old holes with dowel rod and drill two new holes. I have my spinner balanced and spinning well and I do not want to jeopardize that by trying to adjust the angle out of it with the wires. I will be moving my switch backwards shortly; It is on my to-do list.
EDIT: just to be sure, the angle I was speaking of in my post about that, is the angle of the spinner cage and not the spinner itself.
Your spinners arms have likely been bent slightly back by constant abuse. Look at it from above and make sure it is a straight plane through the middle. It'll hang correctly afterwards. Make sure all the angles on the wires are very uniform for max spinnage.
Quoted from cottonm4:My Big Game, Seawitch, and Dragonfist spinners are mounted on tall posts. My Catacomb is mounted on short posts. I had not noticed this. I am going to swap it to tall posts which is the opposite of what you just did with your Seawitch. The reason I want tall posts is that the ball only needs to make very small contact with the spinner to make it spin. If you leave yours on those short posts more of the lower area of your spinner is going to lose paint because of your now larger ball contact area. I'll have to get you pics of my worn out Catacomb spinner so can see.
The forward angle on your Witch spinner that you are speaking of is a problem I also have with my Seawitch and some times it can disturb the hit. That angle crap happened after I made some adjustments to the spinner wires. All I/you need to fix that is moved the spinner switch back on the underside of the play field, fill the old holes with dowel rod and drill two new holes. I have my spinner balanced and spinning well and I do not want to jeopardize that by trying to adjust the angle out of it with the wires. I will be moving my switch backwards shortly; It is on my to-do list.
EDIT: just to be sure, the angle I was speaking of in my post about that, is the angle of the spinner cage and not the spinner itself.
So you suggest moving the spinner switch backwards a little bit under the Playfield to straighten up the spinner?
Quoted from Chalkey:Your spinners arms have likely been bent slightly back by constant abuse. Look at it from above and make sure it is a straight plane through the middle. It'll hang correctly afterwards. Make sure all the angles on the wires are very uniform for max spinnage.
Unfortunately I did try that. I had the spinner out of the bracket and tried to straighten every single possible angle.
I'd encourage you to revisit the geometry, maybe bend the arms very slightly backwards if you have to. I see this all the time. You can proof the switch out of the equation by removing it and letting the spinner hang.
Quoted from Shenanigander:So you suggest moving the spinner switch backwards a little bit under the Playfield to straighten up the spinner?
That's one way of doing it. Yes.
Quoted from Chalkey:Your spinners arms have likely been bent slightly back by constant abuse. Look at it from above and make sure it is a straight plane through the middle. It'll hang correctly afterwards. Make sure all the angles on the wires are very uniform for max spinnage.
I understand what you are saying, Chalky. But you have to admit that it is easier said than done. It takes practice to get them spinning correctly. And judging from some of the pins I bought, there was a lot of adjusting done previously that I had to correct. On my Nine Ball someone has even drilled two deep dimples on top of the spinner to "achieve balance"; Some small tweaking of the wire has the spinner resting perfectly.
I don't know how you do yours but I take the switch connecting rod off completely so I can spin just the spinner. Obviously, if you set the two wires above the axis of the center of the spinner you can get it to always stop with the lower edge pointing down. But now you might be setting up for an uneven spin since the wires are not centered to the axis.
After you get that nice smooth spin now you have to hook it all back up. This is where you have to adjust the tension on the switch. Too much tension on the switch will pull the the spinner rod down and make the spinner stand up straight but it will put a drag on your spinning action. Too little tension and now you are dealing with a spinner that wants to sit at an angle.
In the case of my Seawitch spinner, I managed to get a good smooth spin with just the spinner. And got the switch set to...ah...tension neutral... and I was left with this angle position problem. I'll take another look but relocating parts the factory did not locate per blueprint is nothing to me. And if relocating the switch solves the problem then I know where I am going.
In the meantime, maybe some pictures on adjusting a spinner should be posted. Yes? No?
Gotta take into acount the pitch of the game. If you’re jacking it up to 9 degreees you’re spinners going to have more of a lean
Hmmm. I think I will have to revisit this and post some photos. I will remove the spinner completely again and try and square everything up again. I'm hoping for success but last time I tried that there was no adjustment that I could make that would get the spinner to sit vertical. I may even try tall star posts again. I feel like I had to rely on the tension the spinner switch to assist in getting a vertical rest on the spinner. I will mess around again and see what I can come up with.
Quoted from Shenanigander:Hmmm. I think I will have to revisit this and post some photos. I will remove the spinner completely again and try and square everything up again. I'm hoping for success but last time I tried that there was no adjustment that I could make that would get the spinner to sit vertical. I may even try tall star posts again. I feel like I had to rely on the tension the spinner switch to assist in getting a vertical rest on the spinner. I will mess around again and see what I can come up with.
Spinner should always be adjusted at the arms on the spinner never by tension of the rod.
You should be able to remove the rod and still have the spinner sitting at any angle you want just with arm adjustments.
Also most adjustment can be made without removing spinner. Just use light pressure to bend the arms while mounted in game.
If done right you can have the bottom of the spinner angled very far back if yoh really wanted too.
Quoted from Mitch:Spinner should always be adjusted at the arms on the spinner never by tension of the rod.
You should be able to remove the rod and still have the spinner sitting at any angle you want just with arm adjustments.
That is what I was thinking but was not able to get that result the first time I had the spinner out. I will mess with it again and see if I can get it to rest perfectly out of the machine without the rod attached.
Quoted from Shenanigander:That is what I was thinking but was not able to get that result the first time I had the spinner out. I will mess with it again and see if I can get it to rest perfectly out of the machine without the rod attached.
Call me tommorow if you want. ( later today)
Quoted from Mitch:Call me tommorow if you want. ( later today)
Haha cool. Why the hell are we up at 4 a.m. anyways LOL
Quoted from Shenanigander:Hmmm. I think I will have to revisit this and post some photos. I will remove the spinner completely again and try and square everything up again. I'm hoping for success but last time I tried that there was no adjustment that I could make that would get the spinner to sit vertical. I may even try tall star posts again. I feel like I had to rely on the tension the spinner switch to assist in getting a vertical rest on the spinner. I will mess around again and see what I can come up with.
Pictures coming. I am having the same problems with my Seawitch spinner as you are describing. I had no problems with balancing a different spinner, but this Witch spinner is the pits.
I'd remove it for these adjustments since you need to make both vertical and horizontal moves. If the arms were parallel just pushing it forward in the bracket would have been fine. Adjust the arm where it is closest to the spinner first. Then hold this section with smooth jawed pliers or the like while you adjust the second horizontal piece if necessary. If I've got a second today I'll take some photos but right now it looks like my gameroom exploded.
Quoted from Shenanigander:Haha cool. Why the hell are we up at 4 a.m. anyways LOL
The weather reporters around here talk like the disaster-ly cold we are having stops at the border. I'm figuring at 4am you are adding another log to the fire.
Screw it, I'll do this while I make coffee.
This is a jacked up spinner taken straight out of a game that had been replaced. I haven't messed with it.
The arms need to be straightened both in horizontal and vertical planes. First we will line up the arms -1 and 2, in that order, with the top and bottom plane of the spinner, 3.
20190131_082526_marked (resized).jpg
This can be done many ways, but be sure to use a tool with a smooth jaw that won't mar the arms and reduce your spinocity. Smooth jawed pliers work but I've found an adjustable wrench actually works really well when you adjust it to be the same size as the arms. Once you adjust the part of the arm I labeled 1 you will need a second wrench to hold that part in place while you make your adjustment to section 2. re-evaluate often and use a straight edge with the bottom or top of the spinner when you're having a hard time eyeballing it.
Here's the spinner after only making that adjustment to the one side:
So next do the other arm and make sure everything is parallel with 1, 2, 3 on that side. Once that is done the spinner needs to be adjusted front to back. This is another place where the adjustable wrench can come in handy. If the jaws are large enough you can put the entire section you just adjusted in the jaws and move it into parallel with the top view of the spinner. Now we're sitting pretty.
Epilogue: spinability.
Before putting the spinner back in the bracket make sure there are no burs or imperfections on the arms where they meet the bracket. If there are a dremel with a polishing bit and compound can smooth you out and really give your spinner arm a mirror finish and some zip. Make sure to replace the nylon washers in the correct spot. I like to add a TINY dab of teflon lube to the arms to maximize spinocrity. Before reassembly make sure the bracket is also 90 or 180 degree angles just like we did with the spinner arms. The spinner bracket will have two sides, one with a hole and one with an adjustment slot. Put the spinner in place remembering to put the switch arm back in place and put the nylon washer on both sides. Make sure it is lined up perpendicular to your spinner arms and doesn't bind. put the spinner inside the bracket and tighten down the side of the bracket with the hole. Put the screw into the side with the slot but do not tighten all the way. From here spin the spinner with your finger while moving the bracket through the adjustment range in the slot. When you find the sweet spot where the spinner is at max spinniness tighten the screw down and enjoy.
Quoted from Chalkey:Screw it, I'll do this while I make coffee.
This is a jacked up spinner taken straight out of a game that had been replaced. I haven't messed with it.
https://imgur.com/0GxcHBt
https://imgur.com/4xmxeVS
The arms need to be straightened both in horizontal and vertical planes. First we will line up the arms -1 and 2, in that order, with the top and bottom plane of the spinner, 3.
https://imgur.com/7kPnJrk
This can be done many ways, but be sure to use a tool with a smooth jaw that won't mar the arms and reduce your spinocity. Smooth jawed pliers work but I've found an adjustable wrench actually works really well when you adjust it to be the same size as the arms. Once you adjust the part of the arm I labeled 1 you will need a second wrench to hold that part in place while you make your adjustment to section 2. re-evaluate often and use a straight edge with the bottom or top of the spinner when you're having a hard time eyeballing it.
Here's the spinner after only making that adjustment to the one side:
https://imgur.com/bOF95EC
So next do the other arm and make sure everything is parallel with 1, 2, 3 on that side. Once that is done the spinner needs to be adjusted front to back. This is another place where the adjustable wrench can come in handy. If the jaws are large enough you can put the entire section you just adjusted in the jaws and move it into parallel with the top view of the spinner. Now we're sitting pretty.
https://imgur.com/vUCvISO
Epilogue: spinability.
Before putting the spinner back in the bracket make sure there are no burs or imperfections on the arms where they meet the bracket. If there are a dremel with a polishing bit and compound can smooth you out and really give your spinner arm a mirror finish and some zip. Make sure to replace the nylon washers in the correct spot. I like to add a TINY dab of teflon lube to the arms to maximize spinocrity. Before reassembly make sure the bracket is also 90 or 180 degree angles just like we did with the spinner arms. The spinner bracket will have two sides, one with a hole and one with an adjustment slot. Put the spinner in place remembering to put the switch arm back in place and put the nylon washer on both sides. Make sure it is lined up perpendicular to your spinner arms and doesn't bind. put the spinner inside the bracket and tighten down the side of the bracket with the hole. Put the screw into the side with the slot but do not tighten all the way. From here spin the spinner with your finger while moving the bracket through the adjustment range in the slot. When you find the sweet spot where the spinner is at max spinniness tighten the screw down and enjoy.
This is all good stuff, Chalky. The only thing I can add is that I bought some new brackets/cages from PBR and the slotted hole is no longer there. There are two holes only. So you must use a Dremel and cutting bit and make your own slot.
I am in the middle of working my write up and with this Seawitch spinner it is not happening.
This adjustment looks worse that it really is. The right hand wire pointing down as it is makes things look whacky. However, this acute angle kept the spinner pivot point right next to the outside of the cage allowing for no side-to-side movement. I got great, smooth spins. But always with that bottom-forward lean.
I figured I would draw some reference lines.
With the spinner back in its cage, I'm still getting nice smooth spins. I'm holding the cage with my fingers so if the spin is out of balance I will feel it. Nice smooth spins but still with that lean. I tweak the spinner up. Or down. Or forward. Or back. Nothing makes any difference with regards the lean. I cannot get vertical position.
I load a different spinner to compare. The other spinner spins in balance and can stop at any degree point without prejudice. I give that spinner a small tweak so it will stop in the vertical position. Nothing I do with the Witch spinner will resolve with it stopping in vertical position; I have managed to lessen the lean a little bit but have not obtained vertical position.
I relocated the switch a little farther back on the under-play field. That was more of a challenge to do than I was suspecting. And the spinner still did not go to vertical.
I finally had to add a little tension to the switch to achieve vertical. Just a little. I'm getting good spins still. And the problem of the ball colliding with the edge of the spinner is no longer an issue.
.**************************************
I have one last item I want to do. But not today. The spinner is working good enough for now and I can play Seawitch. My Nine Ball has just blown a diode and is rolling up the points at 7000 per second and I need to trouble shoot that 
It is always something. With pinball machines in the house, retirement is not boring. Not at all.
This is the spinner switch on Nine Ball. It is sitting on a nylon spacer with the switch blade being nice and straight. Some of my Sterns have the nylon spacers. Some don't. There seems to be no rhyme or reason.
My plan is to disconnect the spinner rod from the switch and see where the rod hangs in relation to the switch. I know I will have to have some tension to keep the Seawitch spinner vertical but perhaps I need to salvage and old switch and use some of the blade spacers, or grab a nylon spacer block and see what happens.
BTW: You might notice that the Nine Ball switch is installed upside down with the long blade closest to the play field. It is an experiment and so far I like how it is working. Once I can locate the problem diode then I can continue with the experiment.
Excellent write up guys. I will see what I can figure out maybe later today but had the same issue as cotton. No adjustment got rid of the lean. I will try again though.
Cotton you likely have a shorted cap on whatever switch scores 7k. Cut that cap and see if the issue goes away.
You can put in switch test and see what switch number pops up on the display and track it down that way.
Quoted from cottonm4:The weather reporters around here talk like the disaster-ly cold we are having stops at the border. I'm figuring at 4am you are adding another log to the fire.
The temp in the last 24 hours has been in the -20's Celsius and with wind chill about -30 give or take. Feels like -33 right now. It is face freezing out there!!!!!!!!!!!!!
P.s. Best new term of the year from chalkey "spinocity"
It's just physics, it will hang straight if you get it aligned properly. Putting one arm at an angle and trying to pull down on it with your switch is only going to reduce your spintential but it seems you're not liking the flavor of my kool-aid anyways so I'll drop it.
Quoted from Chalkey:It's just physics, it will hang straight if you get it aligned properly. Putting one arm at an angle and trying to pull down on it with your switch is only going to reduce your spintential but it seems you're not liking the flavor of my kool-aid anyways so I'll drop it.
Spintential lol nice!
I do appreciate your efforts and advice. Thanks you! I also agree with you that with perfectly straight and square arms etc it should sit vertical. I am just wondering that if there is some variation in the manufacturing of spinners form one to another that could be a variable to consider.
Got all my connectors repinned yesterday.
Went fairly quickly
19DEA876-16C0-4E57-A083-60B9A96CB6D6 (resized).jpeg37C30BAA-B229-4F8C-8EA6-13679F92DDC5 (resized).jpegBC2B69D1-1C92-4B8E-A59E-4D1681C75683 (resized).jpegE4092C15-3BFF-4D0E-8082-247ED9CDF3F6 (resized).jpeg65F21DC6-BB40-453E-841D-D9F0D8D90E6D (resized).jpegD8623CD7-2326-48FE-A627-F047C9C06144 (resized).jpegQuoted from Chalkey:It's just physics, it will hang straight if you get it aligned properly. Putting one arm at an angle and trying to pull down on it with your switch is only going to reduce your spintential but it seems you're not liking the flavor of my kool-aid anyways so I'll drop it.
Don't drop it, man. I appreciate your input. I understand the physics. But can't figure out why this seems top heavy. I have 5 other spinners hanging straight and they took nothing at all to get adjusted.
Quoted from Arcade:Got all my connectors repinned yesterday.
Went fairly quickly [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice. I just did 3 of my seawitch display connectors. For some reason many wires had insulation worn off just enough to expose some bare wire here and there and there was many wires with electrical tape on them covering up the exposed wire. I cut off all the frayed wires which were all near the connectors (very odd) and tidied that all up. I will have to post a pic. There are so many wires in the head with electrical tape covering up minor insulation wear. Like maybe 40 wires.
What would cause this?
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