Seawitch
Stern Electronics, 1980I responded to Craig above. When I went to package this glass, I found 3 minor scratches to glass surface. Top 2 are minor, & the middle one is deeper. This was with 2 other Seawitch with no scratches. So I will reduce it another $25 US to $200 US shipped. I had to look closely, as I do with final packing. Here are pictures. The ink on the back is prefect!
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Quoted from greatwichjohn:I responded to Craig above. When I went to package this glass, I found 3 minor scratches to glass surface. Top 2 are minor, & the middle one is deeper. This was with 2 other Seawitch with no scratches. So I will reduce it another $25 US to $200 US shipped. I had to look closely, as I do with final packing. Here are pictures. The ink on the back is prefect!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I'm not worried about those little bitty scratches. I have some glass polish that will remove scratches. I appreciate your honesty. You have been Paypal-ed. Ship when ready.
Thanks.
Quoted from Shenanigander:If I powdercoat legs on my Seawitch what color would look best? White, Blue, Yellow? Neither?
Something in the "silver vein" category.
Quoted from Spraynard:Amazing outlane save on Seawitch by Jason Werdrick at INDISC
https://clips.twitch.tv/DependableRacyMangetoutDatSheffy
Seen that live. It was amazing. If he did not make that save he would have been eliminated that round. That Save allowed him to advance to the next round.
Quoted from Shenanigander:Seen that live. It was amazing. If he did not make that save he would have been eliminated that round. That Save allowed him to advance to the next round.
That was pretty cool. But I thought the tournaments aways removed those rubber posts in front of the ball guides so it would be more challenging.
Quoted from cottonm4:That was pretty cool. But I thought the tournaments aways removed those rubber posts in front of the ball guides so it would be more challenging.
No, not necessarily. It's at the TD's discretion, and it will depend on the tournament format and time constraints. It's usually the modern games that get murdered out because there are so many safe shots that return to your flippers. On older games where you are constantly putting the ball out of control, it's not as critical. The classic games are naturally difficult.
Just received my new power distribution board for Seawitch today.
The last game I changed one of these on was a Bally KISS and it came with very good instructions for the wire colors and where they were to go.
This time the board came with no instructions. 
Has someone here already done this fun task and have any tips for how to make it easier.
I have searched for an online link for Classic Stern power board instructions but have come up empty.
Even just a photo of the back side of someones replacement board would help.
http://stevekulpa.net/pinball/as-2518-18-wiring.htm
Bookmark it, awesome resource. I have done a ton of these, they're always a pain in the ass since the wires are directly soldered and never very long. IIRC seawitch is in the bottom of the cab so it's usually a little bit easier to access and work around, you'll just have to take a few breaks to stretch your back out. Dont bother unsoldering old wires, cut them close, strip and resolder. Start on one side and work your way over to get the most out of your wire length. Sometimes clipping the zip ties can help get a little more slack
Quoted from Chalkey:http://stevekulpa.net/pinball/as-2518-18-wiring.htm
Bookmark it, awesome resource. I have done a ton of these, they're always a pain in the ass since the wires are directly soldered and never very long. IIRC seawitch is in the bottom of the cab so it's usually a little bit easier to access and work around, you'll just have to take a few breaks to stretch your back out. Dont bother unsoldering old wires, cut them close, strip and resolder. Start on one side and work your way over to get the most out of your wire length. Sometimes clipping the zip ties can help get a little more slack
The old Sterns transformers and rectifier boards are attached the cabinet support planks with 6 screws. Unscrew the 6 and put the transformer/rectifier assembly on the bench or table where you can sit down or stand up or what ever you need to do to work comfortably.
Quoted from Chalkey:http://stevekulpa.net/pinball/as-2518-18-wiring.htm
Bookmark it, awesome resource. I have done a ton of these, they're always a pain in the ass since the wires are directly soldered and never very long. IIRC seawitch is in the bottom of the cab so it's usually a little bit easier to access and work around, you'll just have to take a few breaks to stretch your back out. Dont bother unsoldering old wires, cut them close, strip and resolder. Start on one side and work your way over to get the most out of your wire length. Sometimes clipping the zip ties can help get a little more slack
I put an appropriately amperage rated Molex connector on mine.
Removed power supply and am labeling my wires with tape.
Already an issue on the first wire
E1 in the photo lists as Red large gauge and E3 lists as red small gauge.
Problem is both of my red wires are large gauge but one has yellow stripes.
If I had to guess, I would guess solid red would go to E1 and red/yellow would go to E3. But can’t be to cautious so posting here first.
Edit solved.
Just looked in my old board and the above is correct.
Good thing I cut my wires so I could see the old locations because tons of wire colors and sizes do not match the photo in the link.
Here are my wire colors and locations to help someone else down the line here.
E1 Red
E2 Yellow
E3 Red/yellow
E4 White/Red
E5 Green
E6 Orange/White
E7 Blue
E8 Black
E9 Orange
E10 Green/Black
E11 White
E12 White/Blue
The power distribution board swap out was a success. But despite having a replacement MPU, light board and power distribution board the game will still randomly decide to reset itself no matter if you are playing a game or just sitting in attract mode.
WTH?
No rhyme or reason to when it will decide to reset.
Loose diode on a slam tilt switch would do it. Edit: just sitting in attract mode doing nothing probably not. Is there anything that happens that seems like it might be correlated to the resets? How are the connectors?
I have not repinned the connectors on the power distribution board yet.
That is next in my list.
About 3 of the molex holes are pretty dark.
And here is a nice before and after photo of the power board swap out today.
I took the board out and sanded it down so it looks like new now. 
F6E55A73-6FAF-404B-B77C-613A29DFF727 (resized).jpegB41B5074-9135-40D5-B68B-BAE280D87C95 (resized).jpegQuoted from Arcade:I have not repinned the connectors on the power distribution board yet.
That is next in my list.
About 3 of the molex holes are pretty dark.
And here is a nice before and after photo of the power board swap out today.
I took the board out and sanded it down so it looks like new now.
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Once you repin, your reset problems should go away. IIRC, it is one of the wires on the J-3 connector. J-1 is upper left. J-2 is upper right.
Quoted from cottonm4:Once you repin, your reset problems should go away. IIRC, it is one of the wires on the J-3 connector. J-1 is upper left. J-2 is upper right.
Thanks.
I got the new connectors in with the board and totally forgot about them. Lol
I just tossed them off to the side and forgot I even had them.
Quoted from Chalkey:Is a heat sink not needed on the middle bridge rectifier I guess? The weebly.nvram ones do but I guess thats all I've seen for repros.
Yes
There was no way to put the heat sink on this new power board.l
If your interested in a Seawitch glass let me know. Next week I start Marco Specialties PO, & it will be 3-4 weeks for more tempered glass blanks to arrive for printing. I will be going to TPF this year.
Quoted from Tyamry:I'm in... can't wait to get it set up![quoted image]
Congrats!!!!!!!
Quoted from greatwichjohn:If your interested in a Seawitch glass let me know. Next week I start Marco Specialties PO, & it will be 3-4 weeks for more tempered glass blanks to arrive for printing. I will be going to TPF this year.
I am interested in a glass.
I will be at TPF as well
I will be donating the Seawitch & Star Gazer glass to the show. If your interested, let Ed know what you will offer to the draw winner. Cash is king!
Quoted from greatwichjohn:I will be donating the Seawitch & Star Gazer glass to the show. If your interested, let Ed know what you will offer to the draw winner. Cash is king!
Gotcha.
Quoted from greatwichjohn:I will be donating the Seawitch & Star Gazer glass to the show. If your interested, let Ed know what you will offer to the draw winner. Cash is king!
Ed is a friend of mine.
This is not how he operates.
Sounded a little shady but you never know.
I am still interested in a glass if you have some at the show.
Quoted from greatwichjohn:If your interested in a Seawitch glass let me know. Next week I start Marco Specialties PO, & it will be 3-4 weeks for more tempered glass blanks to arrive for printing. I will be going to TPF this year.
greatwichjohn John will you have a booth?
It is not shady! Some people win stuff, & would like to have cash instead. Example: They do not have that pin title. They do not want the hassle of bringing a glass home. Years ago this happened, the winner was happy to receive cash, & the buyer got a good discount. Many of the glass I donate to shows gets sold on Ebay, privately, or on pinside. If you are interested on either glass, & you have a offer in hand it will go to the winner. They decide what they want to do.
Glass is available from me, or my distributors no matter what.
Quoted from greatwichjohn:It is not shady! Some people win stuff, & would like to have cash instead. Example: They do not have that pin title. They do not want the hassle of bringing a glass home. Years ago this happened, the winner was happy to receive cash, & the buyer got a good discount. Many of the glass I donate to shows gets sold on Ebay, privately, or on pinside. If you are interested on either glass, & you have a offer in hand it will go to the winner. They decide what they want to do.
Glass is available from me, or my distributors no matter what.
Thanks for clarifying.
I have no problem buying from the drawing winner. Lol
In contact this week for Stern Electronics pinball era yellow opaque arrow. http://www.northernprecisionplastics.com/contact.html
CPR has them as a supplier, along with Foremost plastics. So hopefully I can have them molded within 30 - 60 days for Seawitch playfield production.
Quoted from j_m_:1- shooter lane much improved with a "ski jump" instead of the metal flapper, makes RH loop shots easier.
this is the one thing that I would like to see if it's possible to retrofit in my seawitch. it looks like it's 2 or 3 pieces of metal; the ski jump itself, a different outer ball guide which has the cut out that is just over the 1/2 of ball's height under the [jump] and a 2nd (upper section) of ball guide to prevent launched balls from leaving the playfield
Quoted from dasvis:Well, if you try it, please post pics of the process & part #'s needed. I'm all for keeping stuff original, but this would really be a great improvement. Especially if it were reversible.
Quoted from cottonm4:I'm working on it. I have the part numbers and have made contact with a Stern distributor.
I am going to try and get just the ramp first. I want to make sure the ball is not going to have too much problem snapping into the glass all of the time. I don't care if it smacks the glass on launch as long as the ball trajectory and speed are not affected.
My Beatles launch ramp arrived this afternoon. Like any kid with a new toy I have been trying it out for fitment and action.
1) It is a little tricky to get lined up perfectly to make a good launch. I have pretty much got it lined up and the shooting is OK.
2) Permanent attachment is with two factory screw holes. I may have to drill one more hole for a full 3-point lockdown.
3) I have made a temporary ball guide from some polycarbonate to play around with and try for a good ball trajectory.
Observations:
If I pull the shooter rod all the back the ball snaps the glass. However, a more gentler skill shot pull makes for a nice smooth launch with no glass contact.
For shooter lane action I give a big thumbs up. But I'm still working on it.
For action of coming around in a clockwise loop, I also give a thumbs up. But a good ball guide is going to take some work.
What I have going right now with a 2-3 hours install and experiment time is looking good. Even where I am at so far I do not have to deal with a flap gate which is great.
Quoted from Madmax541:Did ball guide come from stern?
How much?
Yes, it came from Stern. It cost a lot. I had to pay $39.00 which included the shipping. I'm still working getting positioned correctly but so far I am happy with how the launching is acting.
Quoted from Madmax541:Could you provide part numbers for everyone that is considering order it?
The ramp part number is: 535-1488-04 Stern calls in guide #4.
I did not order these, but if you want the skill shot parts:
The gate bracket is: 535-1488-00
The wire is:.............535-1536-00
I do not have the part number for the loop ball guide, yet. I'm not sure I need it. I 'll have to hit my contact up again and see if I can get that number.
You can buy these from any Stern distributor. My local Stern distro had too high on a minimum order price. I got mine at FUN in Dallas. A guy named Craig took my order and knows what is going on.
Quoted from Arcade:Getting ready to re-pin the three connectors on the power board.
Big Daddy sent me two different bags of pins with the molex connectors.
What is the difference? And which ones should I use?
There is a BT and an AT bag.[quoted image]
Are they for different gauge wire?
Quoted from cottonm4:My Beatles launch ramp arrived this afternoon. Like any kid with a new toy I have been trying it out for fitment and action.
1) It is a little tricky to get lined up perfectly to make a good launch. I have pretty much got it lined up and the shooting is OK.
2) Permanent attachment is with two factory screw holes. I may have to drill one more hole for a full 3-point lockdown.
3) I have made a temporary ball guide from some polycarbonate to play around with and try for a good ball trajectory.
Observations:
If I pull the shooter rod all the back the ball snaps the glass. However, a more gentler skill shot pull makes for a nice smooth launch with no glass contact.
For shooter lane action I give a big thumbs up. But I'm still working on it.
For action of coming around in a clockwise loop, I also give a thumbs up. But a good ball guide is going to take some work.
What I have going right now with a 2-3 hours install and experiment time is looking good. Even where I am at so far I do not have to deal with a flap gate which is great.
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It's going to work. I got my metal ball guide built this afternoon. I have some fine tuning and clean up to do, but the guide will let you bang the upper right flipper for a clockwise orbit shot.
It is going to work !!
Quoted from cottonm4:It's going to work. I got my metal ball guide built this afternoon. I have some fine tuning and clean up to do, but the guide will let you bang the upper right flipper for a clockwise orbit shot.
It is going to work !!
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Awesome news. Can’t wait to see the finished product in action.
Will this be doable by everyone if correct ball guide is provided by someone?
Quoted from cottonm4:Are they for different gauge wire?
The BT May have a slightly larger gap in the back but hard to tell.
I can’t find a difference in AT & BT by searching.
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