I own 3 of them
- a fully restored 1924 Touring car
- a 1915 speedster that is my current restoration project. Chassis is done, and I'm building a body from scratch.
- a 1919 chassis, currently in pieces and lacking a body... I've been searching for a roadster body for it.
Maintenance and upkeep are pretty easy. If you've got a modicum of mechanical ability, you shouldn't have any problems.
A couple of things to think about...
- Wire wheels are safer than wood wheels. I have wood wheels on the touring car, but I turned them myself on the lathe and pressed them together. They aren't 100% true, but they are a hell of a lot safer than relying on 90+ year old wood wheels! Model T wire wheels are hard to find and quite expensive (they were an optional item in 1926 and 27 only). I would suggest going with Model A wire wheels and the wheel adapters that Lang's, Mac's, etc. sell. Tires are much easier to find for the Model A wheels.
- You need VERY fresh gas to get these to start. The gas most stations sell today is garbage, and cars only run on it because of the higher compression. You can use non-ethanol gas with a lead substitute additive if you can find it in your area. When you rebuild the engine, you'll need to put in hardened valve seats for the modern gas.
- Because of the bad gas today, you'll need to be prepared to completely drain the tank any time you won't be driving for more than a few weeks... that's the shelf life of E10 and E15 gas. If you're able to get non-ethanol gas, you can get away with longer periods of time, especially if you use a stabilizing additive (my favorite is "Star Tech", but Stabil and others work as well).
- Keep in mind that the bodies are a wooden frame with the tin tacked onto it. If there's any rocking or shifting in the body, it's indicative of bad wood. That means a complete teardown of the body. It's been about 15 years since I did that with mine, but at the time the wood kits that were available from the vendors were junk, lacking the proper contours-- meaning you had to bend the sheet metal to get it to fit right. I got my wood kit from a fellow in Vermont who used dimensions from a NOS wood kit he had-- and it fit like a glove (but was twice the price of the kits from the vendors). Sadly, he has since passed away.
If you have an other questions, just let me know. I'm not as close to the Model T community as I once was (kids and life have a way of getting in the way) but I'm no less enthusiastic. I have published a number of articles in the Model T Times as well...