A very good idea and a reasonable price.

Nice idea GB...I'm sure there are people who would want these who don't want to bother or aren't comfortable enough to make these themselves - I also think the shipping cost is an important piece...that could prove to be cost ineffective.

I'm curious what wedgeheads are larger? I can't think of any...and the many wedgies I have in storage are all the same size which I can tell easily because of how they are "stacked", but then again I don't have alot of 70s games...just curious mostly - I just can't think of any off-sized ones and it's kinda killing me. lol

Sean

A great idea Mark, and a very nice prototype, but I am not sure that someone who cannot cutout a face using a circular saw and jigsaw would have the capability to remove the old face and attach the new one.

That looks like a flood survivor.

yea figure out shipping. Another piece of this is a little brad nailer to reattach.

Hi, bumping this because I’m about to refurbish a 2001 head. If you had one of these I’d buy it.

I made these myself a few years back. My advice is to either make it yourself, or buy the oversize one and trim it back. To trim it back, use a flush cutting router bit, piloted on the bottom. BE CAREFUL of the top, as the router bit will fall into the vent holes if they are not covered, or your pilot cannot be adjusted to not hit the vents.

Added some pictures of the bit. I used some Melamine tape I had laying around to cover the vent holes.

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I'd take a couple if they were still available.

@newmantjn, your work looks great. I see you used an air stapler or similar tool to fasten your replacement face piece to the backbox, as I've seen others do. Presumably you used glue as well. My question is: how can I proceed without an air stapler or compressor? Is it strictly necessary to staple/nail the face to the backbox, or can I just glue them together and let it cure? If it's important to nail/staple the face, can I use a hammer and a punch with some kind of brads or nails?

It is more convenient and probably neater to use an air tool but not essential. Wood glue and fixing nails punched and mark filled prior to paint fine.

There's a lot of good advice in this thread. I routed two replacement faces last night from 1/4" birch plywood. I decided to go ahead and fully route the inside and outside to fit the head, as opposed to waiting until the face is mounted on the head to route the outside. It's just too much of a pain to set up the router and clean everything up, so I didn't want to do it twice. It's a messy job to do in a room that's not a dedicated wood shop! Again, I might wish I'd done differently when I get things assembled...we'll see. Anyway it's routed from the same surface so the result should be the same, assuming I can mount it precisely.

The birch plywood I used was kind of splintery and the router left some shaggy edges, which was disappointing. It cleaned up with sandpaper, so not a huge deal. It was probably a skills deficiency, as it was my first time using a router. I cut in the proper direction (i.e. not letting the router pull itself) so I'm not sure what I should have done differently. All the videos I've watched show a pristine edge straight from the router, although perhaps not with thin plywood (?)

Once I have these all sanded (and once I've traced the art on the head!) I'll pick the better of the two to mount on the head. I have an extra "dog" head that's currently on my 2001, so I'll probably mount the other face on that head and sand it down for another yet-to-be-purchased-someday wedgehead (since many of them seem to have chipped face plates!)

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looks good!!