Will be documenting my own playfield swap which starts with a decent factory Mylar'd non Diamond Plate playfield with the most recent CPR Gold. Like everyone else, it has no dimpling on the back side and will need many top side holes drilled/opened/beveled. It has new Reese Rails and will be going with all new ramps, plastics, targets, and anything else found along the way.

I have my share of hacks I'll be cleaning up along the way. Most of which is from adding some lighting to the cloud and will be retained using some Molex connectors. The playfield has been curing for a year or more at this point. There's been great posts of suggestions, improvements, and changes from the community on how to work some of the issues and plan to be follow them. I'll use my original playfield as a dimpling template for the new one. It has a full Cliffy set on and will be transferring over. It also has LED's but many of the GI will be changed out for 2SMD style.

Here are some pictures of when I got the playfield. Note some of the holes aren't drilled all the way through like the slings, etc. They're drilled but not quite the full way through. Easy fix.

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Machine with original playfield installed. It's in good shape compared to most. Mylar is lifting and peeling in a few areas. I had put the disk overlay area where the edges were worn down to the wood.

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The new playfield needed buffed out as there were some scratches along the length of the playfield. They came out with some mild cutting polish on a DA and polished out. They didn't show up in photos, but they were there. Below is pre and post work with the DA. Waxed after and ready for rails.

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Rails on and prepping pop bumper bracket twist screws. I've been using the black ones recently as I prefer the look. To counter sink these, I use a hand countersink tool. It takes more time but find it easier to control and removes material slowly.

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Old playfield out. Hardware is being tumbled.

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Gauging interest: does anyone really want to see another swap? Trying to add more pics, issues, and data points that help the average guy like me to help others or their own swap? I’ll add to a poll as it seems there’s not much interest.

Ok thanks all; I’ll keep updating. Just wanted to avoid wasting space and this is nowhere near Chris’s level. Your work is art!

Old playfield tear down pics:

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More of the old top side. Note that plastic protectors didn't save the 3 drop target plastic.

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Bottom pics:

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More of the bottom:

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Interesting to note, mine is dimpled but very lightly. The bottom of the playfield isn't too bad but nearly impossible near the top. And yes, there are quite a few missing holes. I hope to document them side by side soon.

Here's some pics I have on hand to show the dimpling. It's hit or miss but they are there. I did trace with contact paper on the old and transferred to the new, and dimpled holes look to be right on or close. Having two apart recently, you can see there's a lot of factory dimples not used by the factory so it goes to show it's still best to take a good look and triple check before cinching down.

New playfield Gold second run WW CPR:

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I'll get your the specs on the screws although you can reuse the old ones as you likely are aware. With new rails I've been using new screws that are slightly shorter than the originals.

Original length is 1.25”. Using 1” in the new rails that I’ve been able to source at local hardware store.

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Thanks. I’m hoping to sell it to someone. It’s in good shape especially if someone can put the effort in to remove the Mylar and clear it. I’ll be at York Friday.

So good and bad: spent a bunch of time getting some comparison pictures tonight. Others have shared too but I’ll try and clean them up and share.

Through Holes: Mostly all through post holes are drilled. You will obviously want to countersink them and may need to open them up. I’ll get some pics when I have my parts ready to install. Will measure and compare to actual pieces.

Dimples: As mentioned, most are present but some really hard to see. Personally I don’t mind this so much as it allows me to mount as needed. Often new playfield dimples are off anyway. But plan on added time regardless.

Wood Screw Holes: None, zilch, nada. You’ll want to take advantage of others recommendations. Old plastics as templates and some measurements.

Yes, me too! Wishing to see his work and cry lol.

The tool was/is the one all the usual suspects have and sell. Nothing I made! It’s really cheesy but it keeps me from overdoing it with power tools. I’m sure there’s a few different sizes that would be much better. But it does the job and what I’m comfortable with.

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Here's a few comparison side by side pictures.

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Hinge brackets. Loosely installed the 8-32 screws and then with 1/8” drill bit and drill stop pre drill.

NOTE: The screws for this and most every Williams/Bally machine I’ve done uses these course serrated under head hex screws. So keep note of them as they’re a hair longer than most of the other hex heads used.
Drill Stop set
Pre drilled
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Organization will make your life easier and makes it go back together quicker in the long run.

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Adjustment post plates. Reminder to always triple check the screw lengths being recessed. Nobody likes an extra “feature” on the playfield this way. Few pics of drill stop used, pre-drilling, etc. these use the short hex heads. I use a 1/4” DeWalt driver for screws removal and install but I’m not running them in balls-to-the-wall. I’d recommend hand installing and using for removal. And 18v is way overkill but what I’m used to using in my old trade years ago. The large set I have has lasted me a good 10 years and going. Batteries have been replaced a few time though.

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Started on some top side marking. Using contact paper with sharpie for marking key locations. I’d highly recommend having the old playfield clean before you start this. You should have your new playfield cleaned and waxed already before this too.

Most all the through holes are done so it’s just the wood screws they need marked. I mark anything I can in sharpie. Then mark the screws needed with awl or similar.

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I work in sections for a few reasons: may get distracted, it’s hard to get the contact paper easily pulled to start or move, and usually way easier to line up the marks. Remember that these holes may not be the best location as you can still be off. It’s still best to use this method with measuring and using the plastics, guide, etc. to verify.

Pulling off the new sheet carefully, transfer it over to your new playfield. It’s best to do this before you populate the top side as you can see I didn’t. Using the contact paper also makes a great place to make notes. I accidentally marked the ramp flaps holes but prefer to put the machine mostly together and make a fresh drill hole. The new ramps are so thick I find the original holes are always the best.
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Thanks I wish I could take credit but learned from others here about it. Frisket paper works good too but harder for me to see and it’s really fragile.

So far the couple of plastics I marked from the contact paper looked to line up exactly and worked perfect. In this case I’m again using 1/8” drill bit, manual countersinking, then installing the plastic spacer and screw. DEA265E9-927B-43F4-A435-449D8F60F627 (resized).jpeg
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Post Locations on Rails and the two large ones on upper right of Playfield: A few sizes noted with the great idea of labeling from Mr. Chris from HEP. Excellent idea.

Overall:
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Bottom left where ramp mounts gets no spacers.
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Upper Right has two post holders. One is a two piece:
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Mid right by shooter lane:
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Upper left is two posts:
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Upper Right on playfield are 3 1/8" (right side) and 2 7/8" (left side):
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That would be great idea but I don’t have a scanner. And I’m pretty far along on this one now.

Making some slow progress. Most of the top side hardware is installled with parts being ultrasonic’d and tumbled.

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Most of the top side is finally cleaned and installed. I’m currently on vacation so progress is slowing down but I was able to get the common issue area with the post on these playfields not fitting working. I did open up the hole slightly by using the correct/original post. So wondering if there’s some discrepancies from one to another but with little effort I was able to get things to fit.

I am using washers on all the ball guides so that may be of help.
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I'm by no means doing this for a living. I like doing it but I'm not at that level and it wouldn't pay my salary for my day job. I do it for the fun of it. Chris H. (HEP) would be better to ask that question. But I will say I would recommend to anyone that is particular, get any of them professionally cleared as there are a lot of minor issues with all the repro's. A professional clear on top would correct it all and make it look nicer longer. But the truth is, most of us will play them and many of the issues are less than what they came out like new.

If you're feeling those issues, and you can't stop thinking about it: get it professionally cleared.