Whirlwind
Williams, 1990Quoted from Squeakman:I cannot get a nail to catch on them its a smooth transition. One day I think its just fine and the next time I look at it I wonder what to do.
Don't worry about it then.
Install it, and if it one day starts to chip or wear, send it out for a clearcoat.
It's about time, since I'm just here for the cat pictures. 
That catnip fish in the last picture looks really familiar! 
Apron related parts were installed. Dimples weren't there as mentioned so used the contact paper method with measuring as confirmation. Parts still being tumbled; mostly mechs. Waiting for some more odds and ends parts and going with new Cliffy's, shooter lane protection, ramp protector, and lane guides.
IMG_0365 (resized).JPGIMG_0366 (resized).JPGIMG_0367 (resized).JPGQuoted from Spyderturbo007:It's about time, since I'm just here for the cat pictures.
That catnip fish in the last picture looks really familiar!
She loves that fish!
I've posted this before, but I use a smaller Delta drill press a friend gave me along with a PinRestore rivet press kit (Used on a HF arbor press) and their materials. It works great but highly recommend buying the long dies too. You'll use both.
IMG_0428 (resized).JPGIMG_0429 (resized).JPGIMG_9728 (resized).JPGQuoted from dmacy:Dimples weren't there as mentioned so used the contact paper method with measuring as confirmation.
There is a sheet of thick polyester film on the face of every TV you buy.
Save those to transfer holes to undimpled playfields.
Use a sharp Scratch Awl to center the holes.
Quoted from vid1900:TV you buy
Maybe I'll drive down to Best Buy and ask if they have any peeled off in the back.
Quoted from dmacy:Great idea Vid! Now have another excuse to buy a TV!
You can also go to any Art Supply store like Dick Blick and get a small roll of "drafting film" or some places call it an "acetate"
Most stores will cut it off a 24" wide roll for you, any length you want
Would love to see some details and pics on the shooter lane protector. Where do you get this and does it alter the way the ball sits/shoots out of the shooter lane?
Quoted from Elicash:Would love to see some details and pics on the shooter lane protector. Where do you get this and does it alter the way the ball sits/shoots out of the shooter lane?
I’ll post some pics when I get my orders in. It should cause no issues with the shooter lane. I’ve been using them as many others on here on many machines.
Bottom left is the shooter lane protector and where to order:
http://www.passionforpinball.com/whirly_pros.htm
Quoted from dmacy:I’ll post some pics when I get my orders in. It should cause no issues with the shooter lane. I’ve been using them as many others on here on many machines.
Bottom left is the shooter lane protector and where to order:
http://www.passionforpinball.com/whirly_pros.htm
I prefer the Mantis protectors on new playfields because they fit inside. Its too bad he doesn't make one for Whirlwind. I am debating weather or not I want to put the Cliffy on the cellar holes or not.
Quoted from Squeakman:I prefer the Mantis protectors on new playfields because they fit inside. Its too bad he doesn't make one for Whirlwind. I am debating weather or not I want to put the Cliffy on the cellar holes or not.
I'm a fan of them too especially new playfields but yes, not an option.
Pics of the top side mostly complete. Experimenting with using some blue posts in place of the clear ones on tops of plastics.
DSCN4739 (resized).jpgDSCN4740 (resized).jpgDSCN4741 (resized).jpgDSCN4742 (resized).jpgDSCN4743 (resized).jpgDSCN4744 (resized).jpgDSCN4751 (resized).jpgDSCN4752 (resized).jpgDSCN4753 (resized).jpgDSCN4754 (resized).jpgHonestly I haven’t had anything way off but I did open up the ball guides slightly which helps some. But not so much that there was much more than a friction fit. I’ve been through several and this hasn’t been bad other than dimpling that isn’t present or hard to see and several through holes not drilled. Again, annoying but not the worst thing like the CV playfields having the unnecessary hole in the back. Thank you again @mschonbrun for that. 
The guides were tight at this spot but I didn’t have to bend or tweak the guides to make it fit. It really is going to vary from machine to machine. FWIW this was a January playfield. But really early 1969 lol.
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Some progress. Riveting of plastics done along with the wheel mech.
07BFA213-311D-4368-80EC-7E1D8AAFDCE5 (resized).jpeg09F4081C-9BD8-4FD4-B2E5-DB256AFC3C0A (resized).jpeg2A4E90DA-5A72-4845-832B-C05C188B0181 (resized).jpeg8A05B28C-121C-4D02-A11F-FBB50314BC61 (resized).jpeg8BE1FEA5-8F39-4314-B096-FF6E837ED568 (resized).jpegI’m using the Marco ones wherever they’re sourced from. I used them on another and really liked them.
Ramps as they came off. I did install the Cliffy side ramp protector way back but ordered a new one (Actually his whole kit) to install with the new ramps.
IMG_0534 (resized).JPGIMG_0535 (resized).JPGIMG_0536 (resized).JPGIMG_0537 (resized).JPGIMG_0538 (resized).JPGIMG_0539 (resized).JPGIMG_0540 (resized).JPGIMG_0541 (resized).JPGRivets being removed. There's quite a bit and I will often replace with a 6/32 screw and nylok nut unless it affects ball travel or how a part attaching it won't fit or look right. The side wireform ramp clear plastic is a good example of needing rivets for ball travel.
IMG_0542 (resized).JPGIMG_0543 (resized).JPGIMG_0544 (resized).JPGIMG_0545 (resized).JPGIMG_0546 (resized).JPGIMG_0547 (resized).JPGIMG_0548 (resized).JPGIMG_0549 (resized).JPGIMG_0550 (resized).JPGIMG_0551 (resized).JPGMechs are all almost ready to assemble. Whirlwind uses mostly 23-800's other than 5 or so other different ones.
Note, the manual is wrong and you need to order a 26-1400 wrapper for the cellar kickout coil. PPS/BAA sent the right ones according to the manual. I'm guessing a change early on?
IMG_0150 (resized).JPGIMG_0532 (resized).JPGPop Lamp wiring. Following the original set up but trying to keep a bit neater than it came. Using air upholstery stapler and small 1.5 gallon compressor. Take a pop bracket to check as you go and don't forget to use new tubing. I use the butt of the nut driver to flatten down the ends of the leads that curl up when you staple them near the ends.
DSCN4777 (resized).JPGDSCN4779 (resized).JPGDSCN4780 (resized).JPGDSCN4781 (resized).JPGDSCN4782 (resized).JPGDSCN4783 (resized).JPGDSCN4784 (resized).JPGDSCN4785 (resized).JPGDSCN4786 (resized).JPGDSCN4787 (resized).JPGIMG_0533 (resized).JPGRegarding the shooter lane protector from Cliffy: Pretty easy install now or if in you game. Remove the apron and three screws need to be removed to install the protector. It helps to remove the rest of the screws while installing. Adjust to get the cliffy in place and not to block the hole and tighten down screws.
DSCN4796 (resized).JPGDSCN4797 (resized).JPGDSCN4798 (resized).JPGDSCN4799 (resized).JPGSwitches are installed but a few. Missed this switch for the ramp that is really sloppy so will be ordering one...
As far as dimples for the lane switches, they're pretty off but it's better to line up perfectly, pre-drill and then cinch down anyway.
Bad ramp switch
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Pops are done other than running the solenoid harness and soldering. Lamp wiring is done with new spoons, diodes and clear tubing. Six pop bumpers makes this take forever! This is when you find all those hard yellow wires that are daisy chained with switches and lamps that are fragile and break off.
DSCN4808 (resized).JPGDSCN4809 (resized).JPGDSCN4810 (resized).JPGDSCN4811 (resized).JPGDSCN4812 (resized).JPGDSCN4813 (resized).JPGDSCN4815 (resized).JPGDSCN4816 (resized).JPGWas away for a long weekend so just getting back into it. Most of the mechs are together and mounted with an exception of a few (coils being cleaned...) and I still need to order the ramp switch and order some premium LED's. It seems you're always out of the ones you need no matter how many you order.
IMG_0725 (resized).JPGIMG_0727 (resized).JPGIMG_0728 (resized).JPGIMG_0730 (resized).JPGIMG_0731 (resized).JPGIMG_0732 (resized).JPGNew switch came in so wrapped up the switches and soldering. Ramps are done with exception of the ramp up/down ramp as I’m polishing up the hardware. All the solenoids/brackets/assemblies are installed with exception of the up/down ramp. Apparently I was shorted a coil wrapper. 
Extra GI bulb for saucer kick out and planning to add some light to back of drop targets triggered with skill shot inserts.
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I’ve started this RoadBlasters control panel refresh way back in the early summer. Finally getting back to finish it. Have a spare original with metal handles that I’ll keep as a spare and original.
Needed new buttons (they were flaky) and overlay. Otherwise was working fine.
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Flipper mechs are installed but have a lot of soldering to do now. Barring any major issues, it should be done this week.
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Tested pop bumper and GI lighting. I'm comfortable with waiting until the playfield is back in the machine to test the insert lighting. There's a bunch lumped in the middle that could easily be moved around. Cool white 2SMD's in most of the GI with Warm whites in the sling and ball guides to complement the yellow/red/oranges down there.
IMG_0830 (resized).JPGIMG_0831 (resized).JPGIMG_0832 (resized).JPGIMG_0833 (resized).JPGThanks to Freeplay40 for his new lift ramp. Mine is actually in good shape but wanted to go with as much new as I can.
Ramps are done with just needing to button down the main ramp to install.
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Ramps are done. A few comments to hopefully help some others:
1. Regardless of where exactly your measurements are on both the lift ramp and mech, you will likely want to wait to mount these permanently when you install the ramp/lift ramp. I did have measurements exactly, but did still need to move my mech assemblies slightly. After some fussing and cussing, it's perfect. You need to make sure the lift pivot clears the radius in the rail guide up and down so it doesn't bind up. It may be of help to also hold of drilling and mounting your rail guide although if you have everything measured up correctly, it should be fine. It shouldn’t be a problem on a OE field but worth mentioning.
2. Ramp flap on the main ramp (vertical flap, not the lift ramp flap): everywhere I’ve seen on mine before the swap, others I’ve seen or worked on, and even others on the interwebz has the flapro the right of the main ramp (if looking at it). It would make sense you want it on the left side so it helps a smooth transition onto/into the ramp. I’m going with this method unless it plays like poo or any future alignment problems. With new thick ramps, maybe it’s more of a problem, but I have it set up on mine and the last one to at least appear to work well. Anyone else share what they did or how there flap is?
11/32" and 3/8" was what I needed to install the pivot (new replacement as the original was worn down pretty well).
IMG_0840 (resized).JPGIMG_0841 (resized).JPGIMG_0842 (resized).JPGIMG_0846 (resized).JPGIMG_0847 (resized).JPGIMG_0848 (resized).JPGBottom soldering and wiring clean up. I need to add a few screws to the saucer eject, but I like to test it out in game play if it needs a slight tweak. Will mount the rear relay and top switch when playfield is off or back in the machine. Need to triple check a few things and insert lighting checking but should be back in by the weekend.
IMG_0903 (resized).JPGIMG_0904 (resized).JPGIMG_0905 (resized).JPGIMG_0906 (resized).JPGIMG_0907 (resized).JPGIMG_0908 (resized).JPGWanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
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Sana'a
San Francisco, CA