(Topic ID: 224673)

Another Whirlwind playfield swap/refresh: CPR Gold second run


By dmacy

9 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 111 posts
  • 22 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 55 days ago by russdx
  • Topic is favorited by 23 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic poll

“Another Whirlwind playfield swap/refresh: CPR Gold second run”

  • More playfield swaps from the average “Joe”. 17 votes
    81%
  • Enough, you’re another hack. 1 vote
    5%
  • Cats! 3 votes
    14%

(21 votes)

Topic Gallery

There have been 300 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

14D5E873-CFB5-4724-83EB-E2CFA029BD8F (resized).jpeg (© Nutty 5.0)
5F828163-5DAD-41EE-B09D-36558FF5B210 (resized).jpeg (© Nutty 5.0)
9ACC1074-9234-4F9E-86C8-B2BEF3FD9896 (resized).jpeg (© Nutty 5.0)
EE442AEC-4DEA-4B3B-A627-05358EDC79DA (resized).jpeg (© Nutty 5.0)
42136522-B18E-40D3-8BBB-FBF68417BEDA (resized).jpeg (© Nutty 5.0)
IMG_0903 (resized).JPG (© Nutty 5.0)
IMG_0904 (resized).JPG (© Nutty 5.0)
IMG_0905 (resized).JPG (© Nutty 5.0)
IMG_0906 (resized).JPG (© Nutty 5.0)
IMG_0907 (resized).JPG (© Nutty 5.0)
IMG_0908 (resized).JPG (© Nutty 5.0)
IMG_0845 (resized).JPG (© Nutty 5.0)
IMG_0850 (resized).JPG (© Nutty 5.0)
IMG_0849 (resized).JPG (© Nutty 5.0)
IMG_0840 (resized).JPG (© Nutty 5.0)
IMG_0841 (resized).JPG (© Nutty 5.0)

There are 111 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 9 months ago

Will be documenting my own playfield swap which starts with a decent factory Mylar'd non Diamond Plate playfield with the most recent CPR Gold. Like everyone else, it has no dimpling on the back side and will need many top side holes drilled/opened/beveled. It has new Reese Rails and will be going with all new ramps, plastics, targets, and anything else found along the way.

I have my share of hacks I'll be cleaning up along the way. Most of which is from adding some lighting to the cloud and will be retained using some Molex connectors. The playfield has been curing for a year or more at this point. There's been great posts of suggestions, improvements, and changes from the community on how to work some of the issues and plan to be follow them. I'll use my original playfield as a dimpling template for the new one. It has a full Cliffy set on and will be transferring over. It also has LED's but many of the GI will be changed out for 2SMD style.

Here are some pictures of when I got the playfield. Note some of the holes aren't drilled all the way through like the slings, etc. They're drilled but not quite the full way through. Easy fix.

IMG_5587 (resized).JPGIMG_5588 (resized).JPGIMG_5589 (resized).JPG
#2 9 months ago

Machine with original playfield installed. It's in good shape compared to most. Mylar is lifting and peeling in a few areas. I had put the disk overlay area where the edges were worn down to the wood.

DSCN4576 (resized).JPGDSCN4577 (resized).JPGDSCN4578 (resized).JPGDSCN4580 (resized).JPGDSCN4582 (resized).JPGDSCN4583 (resized).JPGDSCN4584 (resized).JPGDSCN4585 (resized).JPGShowing the disk overlay

#3 9 months ago

The new playfield needed buffed out as there were some scratches along the length of the playfield. They came out with some mild cutting polish on a DA and polished out. They didn't show up in photos, but they were there. Below is pre and post work with the DA. Waxed after and ready for rails.

DSCN4571 (resized).JPGDSCN4572 (resized).JPGDSCN4573 (resized).JPGDSCN4574 (resized).JPGDSCN4575 (resized).JPG
#4 9 months ago

Rails on and prepping pop bumper bracket twist screws. I've been using the black ones recently as I prefer the look. To counter sink these, I use a hand countersink tool. It takes more time but find it easier to control and removes material slowly.

DSCN4597 (resized).JPGDSCN4598 (resized).JPG

DSCN4593 (resized).JPGDSCN4594 (resized).JPGDSCN4595 (resized).JPGDSCN4596 (resized).JPG
#5 9 months ago

Old playfield out. Hardware is being tumbled.

34BD0499-7A02-4A11-A5B0-ED1E2EA6E489 (resized).jpeg98016D32-D9BB-42CD-B5B8-129F9EB67083 (resized).jpegA5271730-09CB-47EB-84D4-3C34622BBE61 (resized).jpeg
#6 9 months ago

Gauging interest: does anyone really want to see another swap? Trying to add more pics, issues, and data points that help the average guy like me to help others or their own swap? I’ll add to a poll as it seems there’s not much interest.

17
#7 9 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Gauging interest: does anyone really want to see another swap? Trying to add more pics, issues, and data points that help the average guy like me to help others or their own swap? I’ll add to a poll as it seems there’s not much interest.

Don’t worry about the perceived lack of interest.
You are doing the work whether 2 people care or 20000.
Do it for you and throw it up here for everyone else to see so no matter what you can’t go wrong that way.
It will definitely help someone.

#8 9 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Don’t worry about the perceived lack of interest.
You are doing the work whether 2 people care or 20000.
Do it for you and throw it up here for everyone else to see so no matter what you can’t go wrong that way.
It will definitely help someone.

This. Seriously. If not today maybe tomorrow or the next day this will help someone. Keep em coming!

BTW that original pf looks sharp. What cha gonna do with it?

#9 9 months ago

I am curious as to how you made and use your countersink tool? I am going to use this and hopefuly HEPS Whirlwind threads to do mine.

#10 9 months ago

I am also curious being that yours is a second run if you have missing holes and or dimples on your playfield? Mine is only a Bronze, but its from the first run.

#11 9 months ago

I'm watching. May be doing this myself in a few months :/

#12 9 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Gauging interest: does anyone really want to see another swap? Trying to add more pics, issues, and data points that help the average guy like me to help others or their own swap? I’ll add to a poll as it seems there’s not much interest.

Yes. I love these threads - nothing better than seeing someone put care and effort into a game.

#13 9 months ago

Looking good, keep the posts coming!

#14 9 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Gauging interest: does anyone really want to see another swap? Trying to add more pics, issues, and data points that help the average guy like me to help others or their own swap? I’ll add to a poll as it seems there’s not much interest.

Yes! I’m in the middle of one and all of these pf swap threads definitely help. I pick up something from each one.

#15 9 months ago

Ok thanks all; I’ll keep updating. Just wanted to avoid wasting space and this is nowhere near Chris’s level. Your work is art!

#16 9 months ago

Old playfield tear down pics:

DSCN4630 (resized).JPGDSCN4631 (resized).JPGDSCN4632 (resized).JPGDSCN4633 (resized).JPGDSCN4634 (resized).JPGDSCN4635 (resized).JPGDSCN4636 (resized).JPGDSCN4637 (resized).JPGDSCN4638 (resized).JPGDSCN4639 (resized).JPG
#17 9 months ago

More of the old top side. Note that plastic protectors didn't save the 3 drop target plastic.

DSCN4607 (resized).JPGDSCN4610 (resized).JPGDSCN4611 (resized).JPGDSCN4613 (resized).JPGDSCN4614 (resized).JPGDSCN4615 (resized).JPGDSCN4616 (resized).JPGDSCN4617 (resized).JPGDSCN4618 (resized).JPGDSCN4619 (resized).JPGDSCN4620 (resized).JPGDSCN4621 (resized).JPGDSCN4622 (resized).JPGDSCN4623 (resized).JPGDSCN4624 (resized).JPGDSCN4625 (resized).JPGDSCN4626 (resized).JPGDSCN4627 (resized).JPGDSCN4628 (resized).JPGDSCN4629 (resized).JPG
#18 9 months ago

Bottom pics:

DSCN4640 (resized).JPGDSCN4641 (resized).JPGDSCN4642 (resized).JPGDSCN4643 (resized).JPGDSCN4644 (resized).JPGDSCN4645 (resized).JPGDSCN4646 (resized).JPGDSCN4647 (resized).JPGDSCN4648 (resized).JPGDSCN4649 (resized).JPGDSCN4650 (resized).JPGDSCN4651 (resized).JPGDSCN4652 (resized).JPG
#19 9 months ago

More of the bottom:

DSCN4654 (resized).JPGDSCN4655 (resized).JPGDSCN4656 (resized).JPGDSCN4657 (resized).JPGDSCN4658 (resized).JPGDSCN4659 (resized).JPGDSCN4660 (resized).JPGDSCN4661 (resized).JPGDSCN4662 (resized).JPGDSCN4663 (resized).JPGDSCN4664 (resized).JPGDSCN4666 (resized).JPGDSCN4675 (resized).JPGDSCN4676 (resized).JPGDSCN4677 (resized).JPGDSCN4678 (resized).JPGDSCN4681 (resized).JPG
#20 9 months ago

Yes keep this going!! Others will find lots of info in here. The pics will help others a lot!!

#21 9 months ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

I am also curious being that yours is a second run if you have missing holes and or dimples on your playfield? Mine is only a Bronze, but its from the first run.

Interesting to note, mine is dimpled but very lightly. The bottom of the playfield isn't too bad but nearly impossible near the top. And yes, there are quite a few missing holes. I hope to document them side by side soon.

#22 9 months ago

Here's some pics I have on hand to show the dimpling. It's hit or miss but they are there. I did trace with contact paper on the old and transferred to the new, and dimpled holes look to be right on or close. Having two apart recently, you can see there's a lot of factory dimples not used by the factory so it goes to show it's still best to take a good look and triple check before cinching down.

New playfield Gold second run WW CPR:

DSCN4696 (resized).JPGDSCN4697 (resized).JPG
#23 9 months ago

Do you have a source for the screws that hold on the rails? Keep up the good work it’s inspiring me to start the same swap

#24 9 months ago

I'll get your the specs on the screws although you can reuse the old ones as you likely are aware. With new rails I've been using new screws that are slightly shorter than the originals.

#25 9 months ago
Quoted from boo32:

Do you have a source for the screws that hold on the rails? Keep up the good work it’s inspiring me to start the same swap

Original length is 1.25”. Using 1” in the new rails that I’ve been able to source at local hardware store.

3CDE9694-70C8-4A00-AD7A-A60CF6419F81 (resized).jpegFD07E2CB-1CBB-4F79-8DD0-4CB307A3F287 (resized).jpeg
#26 9 months ago
Quoted from lurch:

This. Seriously. If not today maybe tomorrow or the next day this will help someone. Keep em coming!
BTW that original pf looks sharp. What cha gonna do with it?

Thanks. I’m hoping to sell it to someone. It’s in good shape especially if someone can put the effort in to remove the Mylar and clear it. I’ll be at York Friday.

#27 9 months ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

I am also curious being that yours is a second run if you have missing holes and or dimples on your playfield? Mine is only a Bronze, but its from the first run.

So good and bad: spent a bunch of time getting some comparison pictures tonight. Others have shared too but I’ll try and clean them up and share.

Through Holes: Mostly all through post holes are drilled. You will obviously want to countersink them and may need to open them up. I’ll get some pics when I have my parts ready to install. Will measure and compare to actual pieces.

Dimples: As mentioned, most are present but some really hard to see. Personally I don’t mind this so much as it allows me to mount as needed. Often new playfield dimples are off anyway. But plan on added time regardless.

Wood Screw Holes: None, zilch, nada. You’ll want to take advantage of others recommendations. Old plastics as templates and some measurements.

#28 9 months ago

Keep it up. Posts like these are stuff that I get an extreme use out of. I'm building up several games I bought as parts games. Sometimes cabinet only and I source all the random components myself. So seeing all these detailed pics will help if I ever need it.

HEP's pictures are a god send, I've used his to help figure out part places and what parts actually make up games in some cases.

I'm builing up a TAF from scratch and his and Bryan Kelly's pictures of their restore process helped me figure out a lot. Only thing I need now is TAF PF so I can have a better idea of the correct mounting location since the dimples are hit or miss on new playfields.

#29 9 months ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

I am curious as to how you made and use your countersink tool? I am going to use this and hopefuly HEPS Whirlwind threads to do mine.

Yes, me too! Wishing to see his work and cry lol.

The tool was/is the one all the usual suspects have and sell. Nothing I made! It’s really cheesy but it keeps me from overdoing it with power tools. I’m sure there’s a few different sizes that would be much better. But it does the job and what I’m comfortable with.

436EF110-90BC-44CB-97BC-C3BCCA7522C3 (resized).jpeg
#30 9 months ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

I am curious as to how you made and use your countersink tool? I am going to use this and hopefuly HEPS Whirlwind threads to do mine.

found a good article for countersinking

https://www.rockler.com/how-to/select-woodworking-countersink-drill-bits-flush-set-plugged-screws

#31 9 months ago

Here's a few comparison side by side pictures.

Bottom Middle Comparison (resized).jpgLeft Disc Area Comparison (resized).jpgLower Pop Comparison (resized).jpgRight Disc Area Comparison (resized).jpgTop Left Comparison (resized).jpgTop Right Comparison (resized).jpgUpper Right Flipper Area Comparison (resized).jpg
#32 9 months ago

Hinge brackets. Loosely installed the 8-32 screws and then with 1/8” drill bit and drill stop pre drill.

NOTE: The screws for this and most every Williams/Bally machine I’ve done uses these course serrated under head hex screws. So keep note of them as they’re a hair longer than most of the other hex heads used.
Drill Stop set
Pre drilled
DCB813EB-C760-44F2-B9A1-560A0BAEF1DE (resized).jpeg

#33 9 months ago

Organization will make your life easier and makes it go back together quicker in the long run.

0FEA5EEE-75C2-4509-8889-4E515AF5CDFC (resized).jpeg344BB049-59B3-4EAE-A30D-28E868D1F2E6 (resized).jpeg4C3C9BF4-AF83-45BA-B984-63FBD847E702 (resized).jpegA3512165-78AD-4105-8E28-3FE13DE9F037 (resized).jpegAC6D933C-83A8-4517-B92E-645CAE5E63DB (resized).jpegCA556CA6-AEE2-475B-A469-DE667959BDF7 (resized).jpeg
#34 9 months ago

Adjustment post plates. Reminder to always triple check the screw lengths being recessed. Nobody likes an extra “feature” on the playfield this way. Few pics of drill stop used, pre-drilling, etc. these use the short hex heads. I use a 1/4” DeWalt driver for screws removal and install but I’m not running them in balls-to-the-wall. I’d recommend hand installing and using for removal. And 18v is way overkill but what I’m used to using in my old trade years ago. The large set I have has lasted me a good 10 years and going. Batteries have been replaced a few time though.

0F64F173-0AD2-49C3-A247-BB666A8FED33 (resized).jpeg12CB395F-4930-4AAC-A1C7-CC497A65285F (resized).jpeg844C0C89-4DD6-41EA-865F-86A7249975BF (resized).jpeg846E368D-5774-463A-8679-D4C003FC0C42 (resized).jpegAAF886B4-0198-4F60-8946-CF9DE8099F41 (resized).jpegBD5C805F-A3AC-4EED-8090-93E787EA9A2C (resized).jpegC7D32822-9542-4137-9A89-8BBF1AB92B0D (resized).jpegD3458C10-4E5E-4F3D-8AE0-D2A05891ED45 (resized).jpegD5438BFD-E5F7-4FB0-9919-545EBE6F4D73 (resized).jpeg
#35 9 months ago

Started on some top side marking. Using contact paper with sharpie for marking key locations. I’d highly recommend having the old playfield clean before you start this. You should have your new playfield cleaned and waxed already before this too.

Most all the through holes are done so it’s just the wood screws they need marked. I mark anything I can in sharpie. Then mark the screws needed with awl or similar.

17706C9A-EDEE-4A8E-B7C5-A8E479C10584 (resized).jpeg
1014BBB1-0395-4803-BB98-26656437A190 (resized).jpeg
7E3542C0-CE76-4B4F-A393-7D1ED20852D6 (resized).jpeg
06DA0271-867C-413C-AE57-8A1C046A2B38 (resized).jpeg34AD74D0-411E-4C54-A479-6B23D26CDA07 (resized).jpeg45F6385C-8E31-4728-A229-D3FCC455F384 (resized).jpeg48A8D8E6-07B7-4531-B989-37EF90EC0968 (resized).jpeg74A85B22-D41D-43C2-9FA7-DE7405B92496 (resized).jpeg

#36 9 months ago

I really like the contact paper idea. That’s clever and I’ll have to use that for my next swap.

#37 9 months ago

I work in sections for a few reasons: may get distracted, it’s hard to get the contact paper easily pulled to start or move, and usually way easier to line up the marks. Remember that these holes may not be the best location as you can still be off. It’s dill best to use this method with measuring and using the plastics, guide, etc. to verify.

Pulling off the new sheet carefully, transfer it over to your new playfield. It’s best to do this before you populate the top side as you can see I didn’t. Using the contact paper also makes a great place to make notes. I accidentally marked the ramp flaps holes but prefer to put the machine mostly together and make a fresh drill hole. The new ramps are so thick I find the original holes are always the best.
82C1D8C9-E0D8-491B-9FFC-236BC553EC2B (resized).jpeg
32A96BDF-3AAD-4B6E-AA02-B712270E8C61 (resized).jpeg
25ABCEA0-338A-4B4A-AECB-E08BB4D16F8F (resized).jpeg
A9646006-3644-4186-9EC8-229C5F0B0242 (resized).jpeg

#38 9 months ago
Quoted from pintechev:

I really like the contact paper idea. That’s clever and I’ll have to use that for my next swap.

Thanks I wish I could take credit but learned from others here about it. Frisket paper works good too but harder for me to see and it’s really fragile.

#39 9 months ago

So far the couple of plastics I marked from the contact paper looked to line up exactly and worked perfect. In this case I’m again using 1/8” drill bit, manual countersinking, then installing the plastic spacer and screw. DEA265E9-927B-43F4-A435-449D8F60F627 (resized).jpeg
37743F3B-EE8F-488F-BD69-60FD113D5624 (resized).jpeg
8920C9FB-813F-4D3B-AB89-E06960D33EDF (resized).jpeg
86218EE3-8D69-49AE-96CA-F71013BAB713 (resized).jpeg
79B0ED99-7F76-459F-B07C-D35AF9A62F4D (resized).jpeg
0359D89C-BD7D-46E0-B6C2-D8BB2AC527F1 (resized).jpeg
5F23AAA9-AAAB-43E4-8B57-5E756D7FEB68 (resized).jpeg
50D3DF26-32D5-4916-8C4E-7E8983456F3C (resized).jpeg

3C48ABC7-9C05-4782-8D80-1905730B9353 (resized).jpeg
#40 9 months ago

I can't believe I just found this thread. Another dmacy PF swap thread? Sign me up!

#41 9 months ago

Post Locations on Rails and the two large ones on upper right of Playfield: A few sizes noted with the great idea of labeling from Mr. Chris from HEP. Excellent idea.

Overall:
IMG_0187 (resized).JPG

Bottom left where ramp mounts gets no spacers.
IMG_0188 (resized).JPG

Upper Right has two post holders. One is a two piece:
IMG_0183 (resized).JPG
IMG_0181 (resized).JPG
IMG_0182 (resized).JPG

Mid right by shooter lane:
IMG_0186 (resized).JPG

Upper left is two posts:
IMG_0184 (resized).JPG
IMG_0185 (resized).JPG

Upper Right on playfield are 3 1/8" (right side) and 2 7/8" (left side):
DSCN4686 (resized).JPG
DSCN4687 (resized).JPG

#42 9 months ago

Awesome thread, did this years ago, brings back some memories of sleepless nights. Lol. Love Whirlwind!

#43 9 months ago

It would be cool if you could scan the new playfield before adding everything again...

#44 9 months ago

That would be great idea but I don’t have a scanner. And I’m pretty far along on this one now.

#45 9 months ago

Making some slow progress. Most of the top side hardware is installled with parts being ultrasonic’d and tumbled.

2B7CA054-164D-4FF7-9B38-812E767413BC (resized).jpegB07CD103-9E4F-40D0-B09D-7D2FB07FFAAC (resized).jpegC1FD060E-ACFD-4058-8FAD-8B5B74181EC8 (resized).jpegF37C7226-4462-4C99-A58A-E9613A1CF75B (resized).jpeg
#46 9 months ago

Most of the top side is finally cleaned and installed. I’m currently on vacation so progress is slowing down but I was able to get the common issue area with the post on these playfields not fitting working. I did open up the hole slightly by using the correct/original post. So wondering if there’s some discrepancies from one to another but with little effort I was able to get things to fit.

I am using washers on all the ball guides so that may be of help.
396C983B-E998-4C5E-8416-4C0BEF9BC7CB (resized).jpeg5D3E089C-65DD-41CB-8ECC-7BF8A8D8DC50 (resized).jpeg717B201A-70A7-4CDA-AB85-7DD3A7EDC6FF (resized).jpeg865944DA-92BC-4A51-B90B-D4BB232AFE7B (resized).jpeg9442CCDE-410F-4718-BC12-697AC9B1F91E (resized).jpeg

#47 9 months ago

I'm curious being that you restore games for a living what your guidelines for repro playfields are? Some say they are good to go from the supplier and others swear they need to be re-cleared. I'm curious because I can run my fingers along my First run repro and I can feel the edges of the inserts very faintly. Is that acceptable and should I worry about insert chipping? I don't feel like the inserts are raised, but also don't want to go into my swap worrying about future wear. IMO a new playfield should never have any issues with chipping or wear if clear coated properly.

#48 9 months ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

I'm curious being that you restore games for a living what your guidelines for repro playfields are? Some say they are good to go from the supplier and others swear they need to be re-cleared. I'm curious because I can run my fingers along my First run repro and I can feel the edges of the inserts very faintly. Is that acceptable and should I worry about insert chipping? I don't feel like the inserts are raised, but also don't want to go into my swap worrying about future wear. IMO a new playfield should never have any issues with chipping or wear if clear coated properly.

I'm by no means doing this for a living. I like doing it but I'm not at that level and it wouldn't pay my salary for my day job. I do it for the fun of it. Chris H. (HEP) would be better to ask that question. But I will say I would recommend to anyone that is particular, get any of them professionally cleared as there are a lot of minor issues with all the repro's. A professional clear on top would correct it all and make it look nicer longer. But the truth is, most of us will play them and many of the issues are less than what they came out like new.

If you're feeling those issues, and you can't stop thinking about it: get it professionally cleared.

#49 9 months ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

I'm curious being that you restore games for a living what your guidelines for repro playfields are? Some say they are good to go from the supplier and others swear they need to be re-cleared.

Well, it depends......

95% of all car buyers are totally happy with the **orange peel** paint job that comes from the factory.

Same with pinball. Most people are happy with a repo playfield right out of the box.

5% of all new car buyers have their cars cleared/and blocked so that it looks like a showcar.

Same with pinball. Some people want their playfield to look like a sheet of glass - and be totally flat.

Quoted from Squeakman:

I'm curious because I can run my fingers along my First run repro and I can feel the edges of the inserts very faintly. Is that acceptable and should I worry about insert chipping?

As you know from your old playfield, any raised edge will wear first.

Wood lips around spinning discs, holes where balls fall over the ledge (outholes, scoops, saucers) are going to wear more than flat areas.

Of course, your home game is never going to get the millions of plays that a routed game got 40 years ago; but your old playfield will give you a good idea of what's to come.

Quoted from Squeakman:

I don't feel like the inserts are raised, but also don't want to go into my swap worrying about future wear.

If you can feel an edge, that is where it will start to wear.

Quoted from Squeakman:

IMO a new playfield should never have any issues with chipping or wear if clear coated properly.

Unless we find a clearcoat harder than a steel ball bearing, they are always going to wear.

Look at all those repo AFM playfields with so much clear gooped on to them at the factory that they look like they were left out in an ice storm. They still start chipping around the Stroke Of Luck hole in a few months.

=

TLDR = Clearing over a new playfield gives you MORE protection against wear, and gives you a totally FLAT playfield.

#50 9 months ago

Thanks for the input guys. My only concern being home use is that inserts will chip. I'm not even so sure in a home environment that i'd be worried about things like kickout holes and the spinning disk areas wearing. Insert chipping drives me nuts. I did ask Chris about the repro playfields in general in one of his threads and it sounded like he was liking the quality of the repros these days. I believe if i remember correctly he said he doesn't really feel the need to do too much to them now. Don't quote me on that. Also VID when i say i can feel the inserts, I cannot get a nail to catch on them its a smooth transition. One day I think its just fine and the next time I look at it I wonder what to do.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 839.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
$ 20.00
Electronics
Yorktown Parts and Equip
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
3,900
From: $ 16.95
$ 369.00
Cabinet - Decals
Mircoplayfields
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 279.95
$ 279.95
€ 3.70
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 279.95
$ 16.50
Lighting - Led
Lermods
$ 50.00
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 279.95
$ 399.95
$ 30.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Nashville, TN
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 40.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Rock Custom Pinball
There are 111 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside