(Topic ID: 112570)

Another TZ restoration thread

By lb1

9 years ago


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  • 85 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Pesmerga
  • Topic is favorited by 18 Pinsiders

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There are 85 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 8 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

This confuses me - the pop bumper lights are controlled. There's no +5v feed to them.. Did you change them to GI?

No, not at all. I meant the controlled +6V yellow-green wire, as opposed to the ground. I added the missing link yesterday and it all works fine now.

#52 8 years ago
Quoted from dkeruza:

@lb1
Question, to iluminate the skill shoot scoop, you take power from GI?

Yes, I take the power from some nearby GI socket.

#53 8 years ago

So with the playfield still out of the cabinet I am finally ready to start a game to make sure eveything works as it should. I can't start a game using the start button. Nothing. The switch does work in test mode. The game is set on free play. What's going on?

Also, the clock hour and minutes hands don't quite line up at noon. Can I line them up without having to take the whole clock out and apart?

#54 8 years ago

You have to have I hink a least 3 balls loaded in he machine. That happened to me wih L3 Rom, but with 9.4h, It would start.
If you took he clock appart, maybe you put the black gear thatt conrols the hour hand wrong.
There are instructions in the manual of how to assemble the clock and I also found instructions in Ed Cheung's website here: http://www.edcheung.com/album/album08/pinball/tz.htm

Good luck.

Mine is already working, I just have to finish some adjustments like in the Slot Machine scoop.

#55 8 years ago

Thanks for the heads up. I have all balls loaded (5+1) but it could well be that they are not correctly set. I'll look into it.

#56 8 years ago

Remember that it has to auto load the gumball machine.

#57 8 years ago

The autoload was seemingly working correctly, but when I did the gumball test, it showed a problem with the geneva switch that's underneath the playfield and records the rotation of the ball tray (I think). It was indeed loose. I ordered a new one. I hope this will solve the problem. The 9.4 Rom seems a lot less forgiving when it comes to issues. This is not necessarily a bad thing.

#58 8 years ago

Geneva switch now fixed. The gumball tests seem all fine. Still no go. Arrgh.

#59 8 years ago

It is weird, I actually can start the game in 9.4h with no balls loaded into the game.

#60 8 years ago

I checked my Start button switch and it seems to work ok.
Sounds like I need to drop a post on the TZ owner thread.
Is your 9.4h Free Play only?
I could also ask the Coin Op Cauldron for some pointers.

#61 8 years ago

When I was putting it together was not set to free play, and it would start.

Here is somebody with the same problem but there is no post saying if he did solve it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-wont-start

#62 8 years ago

Are all optos registering correctly? (Both open and blocked?)
When you hit start, does the game respond *at all*?
Does anything change when you put a service credit on and try?

#63 8 years ago
Quoted from dkeruza:

When I was putting it together was not set to free play, and it would start.
Here is somebody with the same problem but there is no post saying if he did solve it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-wont-start

Thanks a lot for the pointer. I replied to the thread to see if this was ever resolved.
I did have two fuse warnings at some point, but they disappeared after I changed F115. Could still be an issue though.

#64 8 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Are all optos registering correctly? (Both open and blocked?)
When you hit start, does the game respond *at all*?
Does anything change when you put a service credit on and try?

Yes, all optos are registering correctly. I haven't checked the through proximity sensor though.
The start does absolutely nothing. Not even a display. But the switch registers. I can't put a credit on.
I tried changing the free play in the pricing adjustments but it was on Free Play Only. I'll take a look again.
I'm trying the look at the positives. It forces me to check everything before putting the playfield back in.

#65 8 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

Yes, all optos are registering correctly. I haven't checked the through proximity sensor though.
The start does absolutely nothing. Not even a display. But the switch registers. I can't put a credit on.
I tried changing the free play in the pricing adjustments but it was on Free Play Only. I'll take a look again.
I'm trying the look at the positives. It forces me to check everything before putting the playfield back in.

Okay, it won't be the prox sensor.

When you day you can't add a credit, it should give the coin-up sound and display "Free Only". Try turning of the free pay message (in adjustments), and then it should display a credit count. If adding a credit still does nothing, then that could be related.

Oh- Do a factory reset! (Either in utilities, or pull batteries with machine off. There was a bug in 9.34 / 9.33 that caused behavior like this, causing corruption in NVRAM. I've never heard it affecting 9.4H, but it's possible.)

#66 8 years ago

I just found out last night the Start switch was incorrectly wired. It registers, but not as the Start switch. I'm going to try to fix this soon as this is likely was the problem was. The good thing is again that I picked up a couple of other loose switch while troubleshooting the problem.

Thanks a lot for the help!

#67 8 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

I just found out last night the Start switch was incorrectly wired. It registers, but not as the Start switch.

Sounds like you have a failed switch diode or a broken lead on a switch diode on a different switch. I don't know how you get the start button wired wrong such that it registers but not as the start switch.

If you are seeing more than one switch register when you hit the start button in test mode it is most probably a diode or miswired switch somewhere else - probably on the same row or column.

#68 8 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

Sounds like you have a failed switch diode or a broken lead on a switch diode on a different switch. I don't know how you get the start button wired wrong such that it registers but not as the start switch.
If you are seeing more than one switch register when you hit the start button in test mode it is most probably a diode or miswired switch somewhere else - probably on the same row or column.

Yes, it really surprised me. The Start button only registers one switch, but the wrong one. I saw this yesterday but did not have the time to investigate any further. I doubt (hope) this is (not) a big thing.

#69 8 years ago

Check the connector in the backbox going to the mpu board, I believe you can connect the switch wires in the wrong connector. I can send you a picture of mine if you want.

#70 8 years ago

If you have some pictures handy, I'd greatly appreciate them. I'd expect a whole bunch of things to be wrong if I had misconnected either of the CPU J206 & 208, but you never know.

#71 8 years ago

Here.
IMG_20150201_234217.jpgIMG_20150201_234217.jpg

#72 8 years ago

Problem solved. I had inverted the wires from the door open and the start button switches. White/Red versus Orange/Red and Green/Brown versus Green/Red. Stupid mistake. A bit more testing and playfield should be back in soon.

#73 8 years ago

Good you got it!

#74 8 years ago

Good!!!!
Good luck!

1 week later
#75 8 years ago

Does anyone know what this single wire is for? It's the one pointing out that's right in the middle.

image_(resized).jpgimage_(resized).jpg

#76 8 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

Does anyone know what this single wire is for? It's the one pointing out that's right in the middle.

image_(resized).jpg

All TZs have that - was just something for the wiring harness - possibly a testing connection for QA.

#77 8 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

All TZs have that - was just something for the wiring harness - possibly a testing connection for QA.

Thanks Coyote.

So I am almost done. The playfield is back into the cabinet. It was a major pain to put back in without scratching the cabinet.

I still need to do one minor fix. The step bolts on which the playfield sits are not completely tightened. The square opening on the outside of the cabinet is no longer square so it's turning freely when I try to tighten it from the inside. I'm thinking about grinding two small areas outside of the bolt so I can use a wrench to keep it from turning. That's for tomorrow.

#78 8 years ago

A picture of the playfield going back into the cabinet. It's hanging from the ceiling using chains. The cabinet is on the Harbor Freight modified table (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/modified-harbor-freight-lift-table) and sits underneath. The hinges and step bolts are taken out. the playfield is progressively raised to the exact position where the rear cabinet/playfield hinges reside. I used some turnbuckles which allow to get some precise height/level adjustments. This helps avoid having the playfield rub against the newly painted cabinet. I put some adhesive felt (http://www.pinrestore.com/Supplies.html) on the playfield but even with that rubbing can hurt.

I might be missing something, but I don't see how the TZ playfield can go back this way vertically with the hinges on. The idea is showed in https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-playfield-removal#post-1208652. The idea is to lower the playfield closer to the head so it clears the hinge, then bring it forward and lock it within the hinge mechanism. The problem with the TZ is that there is not sufficient clearance relative to the Safe Cracker. The hinge system is different as well.

A lesson learned is that I forgot to apply the felt on the playfield back panel. It's as likely to rub against the cabinet as the sides of the playfield.

IMG_2469_(resized).JPGIMG_2469_(resized).JPG

#79 8 years ago

The fix to the hinge not tightening...

I ended up first taking the hinge out. I used thin cardboard and tape to protect the decal all around the outside step bolt. Then used pliers to prevent the bolt from turning. Removed the bolt and cleaned it really well. There was some residual thread lock compound. Once it was all clean, put it back in and was able to tighten it well. In a perfect world, the square shaped hole locks in the step bolt, but in my case, I wasn't able to repair it properly. I'd be curious to see how the pros deal with kind of problem.

The painted bolt head got some minor touch up afterward.

Picture of the hinge bolt, circled in red. I put a black rubber mat in the very back of the cabinet to avoid having the harness wiring scratch the paint. The kind you use for kitchen cabinets. $6 at Home Depot.

IMG_2477_mod_(resized).jpgIMG_2477_mod_(resized).jpg

#80 8 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

I might be missing something, but I don't see how the TZ playfield can go back this way vertically with the hinges on. The idea is showed in https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-playfield-removal#post-1208652. The idea is to lower the playfield closer to the head so it clears the hinge, then bring it forward and lock it within the hinge mechanism. The problem with the TZ is that there is not sufficient clearance relative to the Safe Cracker. The hinge system is different as well.

Yeah, it can't. I put mine in by hand by myself - I had to keep it at an angle, move it towards the back of the cabinet, and then bring it forward 'til the nuts engaged. For me, it wasn't that difficult, as at the time the playfield wasn't fully populated. I likely would not have been able to do it if it was completed.

#81 8 years ago

I put mine back with the help of my wife. I had it fully populated and it is very heavy.
I had to put it back in like a 45 degree angle, so the hinge mechanism went on top of the nut/cylinder (whatever is called) that is in the cab then slide the pf towards the front until it locks.
Not easy but I was able to do it without scratching my cabinet. I did scratched it later tho, so mirror blades are gonna have to be installed

#82 8 years ago

I had the mirror blades on my STTNG and the fit was even tighter, so they ended up getting lightly scratched. I have some vinyl decals on my SM and they end up not only looking quite nice, but they are thin and quite scratch resistant.

2 weeks later
#83 8 years ago

Just got a TZ out here in Livermore and I really like how the lighted scoops turned out. I may have to attempt that. Well done!

#84 8 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Just got a TZ out here in Livermore and I really like how the lighted scoops turned out. I may have to attempt that. Well done!

Thanks.

Congratulations on your TZ. Lighting up the scoops is actually pretty easy. Possibly the hardest part is to access the areas where you add the leds given how busy it is under the playfield.

2 years later
#85 5 years ago

Hello guys, i found out that another part is missing in my tz.. it is the little ball scoop in front of the gumball machine.

A friend of mine have sent some pics of his under playfield. It seems to be a 2 part scoop
Am i right?

I only have the lower playfield "cup" part but it is missing the long part that goes throughout the upper playfield..sadly I cannot find any pics of it in the web.. can you help me identifying it? It is indicated by the yellow arrows in the pics I have found here on pinside.

Thanks!!

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