While you've got the same symptoms as the OP, you might not have the same actual problem.

Did you go through the same diagnostics that were listed in this thread? Testing all the voltages and connections, etc?

I could be wrong here - admittedly, I haven't had to mess with my clock in .. hell, a decade.

If they had a bad run of boards, maybe that's why? I've never used their boards before, I have an OEM still in mine. (Maybe they sold you PlagueMarmot 's old board? Heh.)

I should ask, since @op is in Maryland near me, to see if I can look at his board. Maybe it's a bad batch, or something went wrong on the board. Am curious. Especially if two people have the same issue. Strange.

IMHO, I would find a different board, try it. See what happens.

Hi @bakerhillpins. Yes I did check my voltages they came bac’ at +12.7vdc at the J1 connector on the motor control board at pins B+ and G. Actual voltage coming off the driver board is +12.8vdc so I’m losing very little through the wiring.

@coyote. I’m curious (as I know some but certainly not near everything!). Where would I be able to pull +20vdc for the motor control board if I need to?

Thanks all. Ed

Flasher bus. My game has a factory jumper from a flasher bulb. I never figured that out. The reason I'm not 100% sure on whether the 20v is needed or not is simple - it's been a while since I looked at it, and my plug has one too many wires - as if they changed motor board designs somewhere in prototype and had to manually adjust my game's plug. Later tonight, I'll open her up and take a closer look.

I say this to mean: It's possible the 20v feed was ORIGINALLY used, but then was decided to NOT be used, and the jumper was just never removed from my game - so I'll need to look at the board and the plug to see which wires are actually in connection with the circuit.

Ok thanks. Please let me know what you find Coyote