Time Fantasy
Williams, 1983I don't like how they laid out the bare GI-wires on the playfield. Seems like a quick and dirty job to me.
DPW_0774_before1 (resized).jpgDPW_0774_before2 (resized).jpg
I want a cleaner lay-out. Hence I'm temporarily putting all stuff in place, to avoid that my altered ground braid lay-out would collide with these targets, switches or assembly's (that's a lesson I learned during my Eight Ball Deluxe resto...).
Plastics came out great and I like the original hardware and colors. Every time I see the final product on the playfield I am impressed- that came all the way back and then some- better than new In fact.
I may be able to jump back into my KingPin in a week or so... Work has been a bit consuming and your thread is keeping me going vicariously. Thank you for that
Thx for the kind words rufessor
More progress here than it seems. The bottom is populated and ready for soldering back the wire harnesses. GI is almost done as well.
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I'm populating the topside simultaneously. I've decided to keep the all yellow "mushroom" bumpers.
Overall I'm happy with how things shape up. "Mushroom Jump"-loop before-after:
Quoted from g94:"Mushroom Jump"-loop before-after:
Wow! Awesome job.
Just read thru the entire thread.
All I can say is WOW!
Your Playfield and Cabinet look fantastic. Looking forward to the final result!!
Quoted from zerbam:DID YOU SEE THE SET OF PLASTICS IN THE POSTED IN THE MARKETPLACE?????
Yes, I just did, thx for the lead. But it's not complete and misses the always broken time tube plastic. And mushroom ramp plastic misses some text as well. Too bad...
Quoted from TractorDoc:Looking forward to the final result!!
Thx! Yes me too. I'm quite close to completion actually... it's about TIME 
Whilst waiting for these coils to be delivered I couldn't resist plugging the playfield back into the game - GI and lamps only for the time being. A little nervous when switching on the game... Yes!
Actually the game has quite a cool attract mode animation. Surprisingly sophisticated for a game from that era.
I've made a short video.
Remember 3 months ago...
-
Quoted from g94:Pale blue dots experiment...
3 months later I have the answer. Yes: I think the repairs do pass unnoticed. Especially since the switch casts a subtle shadow from that GI bulb right behind it.
Quoted from g94:restoration
Be sure and get enhanced flipper return frames from Cliffy, I can see the bevel from here!
;p
mof
Quoted from g94:harnesses
Looks super clean. Class act.
Quoted from mof:get enhanced flipper return frames from Cliffy
Hm, I didn't know about these. Interesting. Thx for the tip.
Dang: that might be an expensive direct order from the US as they don't seem available from the most common distributors here in Europe. Perhaps I'd wait to see how ball behaves once my flippers are back in place.
Quoted from g94:Hm, I didn't know about these. Interesting. Thx for the tip.
Dang: that might be an expensive direct order from the US as they don't seem available from the most common distributors here in Europe. Perhaps I'd wait to see how ball behaves once my flippers are back in place.
Mof installed a set on mine and the ball flys through there
Quoted from g94:expensive
$20 + $6 = $26 USD
$26 * .85 = ~$22 EU
[email protected] to get your set...
Quoted from g94:Whilst waiting for these coils to be delivered I couldn't resist plugging the playfield back into the game - GI and lamps only for the time being. A little nervous when switching on the game... Yes!
Actually the game has quite a cool attract mode animation. Surprisingly sophisticated for a game from that era.
I've made a short video.
» YouTube video
Looking the video it seems the "3x" insert is lit together the "2x" bulb... but in any case you're doing an amazing job!!! 
Congrats!!!
Thanks Theonlylilo I'm happy that you like what you see. It was once your machine after all...
I had already noticed the wrong flickering on the 3X insert, which occured because I had mistakenly soldered the 4X red wire on the wrong side of the diode. Fixed and all good now
Quoted from manples:Did you really soldered a resistance to each lamp socket?? Really Impressive.
That, kids, is how you flicker-proof your leds
Pretty sure I see incandescent bulbs and the diodes that one would normally see on controlled lamp sockets!
Richard
Quoted from someotherguy:Pretty sure I see incandescent bulbs and the diodes that one would normally see on controlled lamp sockets!
That is correct Richard. I've always been using incandescent bulbs so far on my older games and this one is no exception. I've tried a few leds a while ago but all were too bright for my taste.
It's alive!
I just played a first game - perhaps the first game since 35 years for this machine, but it stood the test well! The Time Tube shot is not too difficult, I'm happy with that. Slings and bumpers are snappy. So are my new flippers. There's hardly a hop on the return lanes, but I will order these enhanced returns from Cliffy anyway. I'm still waiting for my repro backglass from Bgresto. This one is bad. And I should not forget to remove the protective film from speaker grill and siderails.
All works as it should except:
- the GI in the coindoor doesn't light up.
- sound is completely wrong, like chimes. Weird. I hope it's a setting but as far as I know Williams didn't have the different sound options like Bally had. Wrong sound roms perhaps? hmmm...
Edit: found it I think! Clive says: "Switch 1 of the DIP switch, depending on the game, can be set on or off, depending if synthesized or musical notes are desired".
I've run into that chime sound issue in the past and it's been so long ago I can't remember what it was. On the old style sound board that the early SS games got, there is a switch setting for chimes. However on your type 2 board I think there is no setting for this...you may be correct that it's the wrong sound ROMs. Where'd you source the board/ROMs from?
Your backbox insert board seems quite low overall, pretty uniform where the displays are lower than the window in the backglass. A small amount of adjustment is done on these with washers under the brackets on the post where the hinges swivel, but in your case it may be that the brackets are installed just a little too low?
Not to diminish any of your amazing work, the machine looks simply beautiful and the amount of effort you've put in classifies as a true restoration!
Richard
Quoted from someotherguy:Your backbox insert board seems quite low overall, pretty uniform where the displays are lower than the window in the backglass. A small amount of adjustment is done on these with washers under the brackets on the post where the hinges swivel, but in your case it may be that the brackets are installed just a little too low?
The backglass is not properly in place on this photo, that's the reason why displays seem too low. I have already removed the plastics so it doesn't properly fit anymore. Hopefully my repro backglass will come soon
Quoted from someotherguy:the machine looks simply beautiful and the amount of effort you've put in classifies as a true restoration!
Thanks for the kind words
Quoted from g94:The backglass is not properly in place on this photo, that's the reason why displays seem too low. I have already removed the plastics so it doesn't properly fit anymore. Hopefully my repro backglass will come soon
I got mine just before the Golden State Pinball Festival last week. It's beautiful
Love it!
Is there anything as sweet as that first game on something you've put so much time and effort into?
A lot to be proud of there -- Great Work!!
Thx guys!
I'm happy to announce that the sound problem is solved. Changing dip switches didn't fix it though: it kept giving me chimes sounds. So I tested the sound rom in another system 7 game. It worked (it was kinda awkward though to hear Warlok making Time Fantasy sounds). Next I put the Warlok sound board into the TF and yes, worked as well. Conclusion: TF sound board is malfunctioning. Luckily I have a few system 7 games in storage, waiting for restoration, and I was lucky to harvest a functioning sound board from one of them. As said: sound problem solved, at least for the time being
Just played a few more games. Wow!
Quoted from g94:I would definitely recommend the small-strips-approach: it's easier to heat and pull than a full size piece of mylar.
Strangely enough heating didn't work well for the thicker jet bumper mylar. But then freeze spray method worked like a charm.
The Mylar in the cracked areas breaks into small pieces. It's a slow and delicate process but the result is beyond expectation. Before-after:
Pfew. I'm half way. All mylar above the rainbow is gone. Not the glue though.
Enough fun for today
How do you gauge how much pressure to apply to cut the mylar only and not gouge the artwork?
hehe... A friend swung by earlier today, eager to play a few games. Big fun. Here I'm early in a game during ball 1. For those not familiar with Time Fantasy: it's all about "snail time": Make all four TIME letters and get unlimited ball savers. The big points are collected by making all 5 top lanes, then drain and shoot again. Crazy concept, but so addictive...
Quoted from Langless28:How do you gauge how much pressure to apply to cut the mylar only and not gouge the artwork?
I did the first cuts in the less visible upper area to get a good feeling of how much pressure to apply. But the most important trick is to cut in black areas and lines only, which are an easy fix afterwards.
This is beyond my expectations. The colours are not 100% perfect (obviously, since the printing process is different) but they are very close. Overall this new backglass is a huge improvement compared to my flaked original. I'm happy that Steve from BGResto was prepared to modify the production artwork to match the artwork of my original backglass (as I mentioned before my backglass has no player numbers. It does have the designers initials instead).
On top the original, below the repro.
I can now finish the game. I will make some "garage-but-sorry-I-have-no-garage"-photos...
Quoted from Avatar:You rule G!
Haha, Jos. I assume that G stands for Gin?
As said earlier my game came without displays, and I had harvested a display set from a spare Alien Poker. Some displays were close to end of life though. Hence I indulged in a led display set
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Perhaps worth mentioning for European customers: I bought the set from pinballsolutions.eu - they finally produce 7-digits led display sets for Williams games. They have adjustable brightness and are quite cheaper than US brands, not to mention shipping costs...
I addressed the backglass as well. I was a little nervous to remove the lift channel after seeing a HEP video, but actually these things (or at least this one) seem to come off very easily, it took only 5 seconds I guess.
Installing it on the BGresto repro backglass was a different story though. Both glasses have the same thickness. But the laminate print and protective tape add too much thickness to the backglass - it appears impossible to squeeze it into the lift channel without damage. I finally decided to take no risk and cut away a strip of laminate, then I reapplied protective tape and managed to properly assemble both parts.
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And then I ran into another problem...
The position of the display windows on the repro backglass don't match these on my original backglass (photo below shows both backglasses on top of each other). Since I haven't read any reports in that regard I assume that the repro backglass is a correct copy of the production backglass. The only explanation I can come up with is that the artist did more changes to the artwork except adding player's numbers at some point.
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Oh well, it's no drama: I can adjust the position of the displays accordingly. That backglass looks damn good...
Here are the promised "Garage-but-Sorry-I-Have-No-Garage"-photos...
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And that's all folks! Thanks for following, help and feedback. Snail Time now
-- The End --
Wow! The photography is as gorgeous as the pin. Great work all around!
I have to admit, the lightning bolts in the speaker panel don't bother me since they tie into the "electric fuzz" in the backglass art... but I do like your streamlined panel, the central ring ties well with the "bubbles" in the game. Can't go wrong with either design I think.
Quoted from g94:promised
Sexy!
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