Another Time Fantasy screaming for attention

(Topic ID: 206069)

Another Time Fantasy screaming for attention


By g94

7 months ago



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  • 253 posts
  • 40 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 22 days ago by g94
  • Topic is favorited by 23 Pinsiders

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There are 253 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 6.
#101 6 months ago
Quoted from rufessor:

If you want my opinion I like it without the bolts- not really for a cosmetic preference but rather because it’s somewhat unique and the bolts don’t especially fit the theme in my viewing from a small screen having never actually seen this game

I agree on that! I would never have questioned the lightning bolts, but after seeing the flyer without bolts, they do feel out of place. At this moment I would be tempted to respect the designer's ideas and ditch them. But on the other hand my initial plan for this one was to stick closely to the original built.

Luckily I can postpone the decision

Quoted from rufessor:

(Thanks to you- I now really want one of these).

Hehe, sorry for that. But you won't be disappointed: it is an interesting game with a few unusual rules

#102 6 months ago

I took a look at my grill tonight. Sure enough you can feel where they cut out the hb. Now I'm starting to think the other one would look better

#103 6 months ago

More reasons to be happy.

One of my main concerns about the playfield was the damage in the yellow mushrooms, since they all have an ocher dither pattern as well. An additional problem is that yellow, being semi-transparent, needs primer first for a nice coverage. But not an option to airbrush primer first in these dithered areas. Hence I tried another approach: first touch up the main damage with primer and yellow paint using a paintbrush. Next lightly airbrush the yellow touch-ups to fade out the repairs. It worked...

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Touched up with paintbrush and primer.

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Yellow paintbrush. Touched up areas are still too visible.

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Finally airbrush. Touch ups in the yellow areas are faded out.

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I'll try to recreate some of the ocher dither patterns next.

#104 6 months ago

I have the same problem touching up my Flight 2000 playfield, in the large planet area it has the same type of dot patern, I finally found an old speaker grill with the same size holes, the pattern matches pretty good over all but I am pretty sure I will have to respray the whole area rather than just the worn spots to get it to look right. Your doing great, enjoy watching your progress.

#105 6 months ago
Quoted from crlush:

Your doing great, enjoy watching your progress.

Thank you!

Cabinet and head are primered.

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#106 6 months ago

Yellow and ocher repairs are done.

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I assume the touch-ups will hardly be noticeable anymore once the black outlines are fixed and the playfield is cleared.
At least it's better than before

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#107 6 months ago

Hehe, although my stencils haven't been painted yet, jibmums already used them to create a virtual pinball machine skin for the 3dArcade gaming gallery. I'm now even more eager to painting the real one

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#108 6 months ago

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From experience I know that airbrushing the white/cream coloured areas make the biggest difference. This one is not different.
Mostly yellowed, cracked, damaged.

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I combined the whites with the few orange areas.

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I think all colour touch-ups are done. Only black remaining, and some spots in the wood tones. But I'll have the playfield cleared first.

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#109 5 months ago

PF looks really good!

#110 5 months ago

I think this is about the most beautiful blue colour I've ever painted...
The cabinet is ready for stencils.

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Stencils are ready as well.

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#111 5 months ago

I've started cleaning the hardware. The transformer is a good start

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Sanded and lightly polished the brackets, ultrasonic cleaned the harnesses, metal etched the blades, resoldered all wires. New zip ties make a difference imho.

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#112 5 months ago

Excellent job on the playfield! I like the white color you choose it matches the game well.

Curious about your process. I use Inkscape (sadly Illustrator is not available to me anymore) and Auto trace but it leaves a crap ton of anchor points and although you can simplify and reduce this the quality goes down and so I end up using the trace as a starting point- simplifying to a minimum of anchor points and heavily editing to match underlying art.

Perhaps your real job aligns with these skills and thus you can move incredibly quickly, perhaps you just spend more awake hours working on your games, but I get the sense your able to move a LOT more quickly than me and achieve the same or better quality to your work! I want to learn a bit more if your willing to share! I like doing this stuff but faster would be better

Do you have a different basic process?

#113 5 months ago

Thanks! Actually I only repainted some white areas and I matched the white of the non-repainted areas. Some people like bright whites (as seen on the repro playfields) but I don't.

About my process: indeed I use Illustrator, but never (NEVER!) the auto trace tool. These kind of tools are not precise enough imo and indeed create lots of clutter. I draw all my line art by hand, using the pen tool. I am not familiar with Inkscape but I quickly checked some tutorials and videos: the equivalent tool in Inkscape seems to be the bezier tool. Similarly to Illustrator's pen tool it allows to create curved lines by clicking and dragging and combine straight/curved by holding keys while drawing. Check a few tutorials and give it a try. It'll take a while to get used to the keyboard shortcuts and how to adjust your curves, but you'll master it soon enough. And then you'll never go back to autotrace, trust me

I have a licence for Illustrator and Photoshop because indeed I need these for my job (I'm a designer), but Inkscape seems quite powerful at first sight.

#114 5 months ago

Thank you, and yes- your exactly right, Adobe is awesome and I had that for years as I used it at work to create presentations but I am not a designer (scientist) so I got good at a few things I needed to do and then I switched jobs to an environment where I have help and the pros get the Illustrator license but I don't! So I am learning Inkscape and yes, using the Bezier tool. Its awkward since my fingers and brain still remember Illustrator but Inkscape is at least a near functionally equivalent package (I cannot justify the adobe license monthly fee for occasional use software and Inkscape is free). I think I will try to wean myself off the trace, like I said- its NOT speeding up the process. I find that placing anchor points at the corners and at inflection points is about all I need and I was spending time removing the hundreds the trace added to get down to the 5 I needed, and then having to redo... so your right, auto trace was a dumb Idea but one I have persisted in using. Next art I will start with a scan and then go right to Bezier tool.

#115 5 months ago

Second colour - sort of shady purple - is done. All looks good so far, colours match well, stencils came off really easy.
So far the good news.

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The bad news is that the head fell backwards (stupid me ), and both upper back corners are damaged. No drama, but a few steps back nonetheless...

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#116 5 months ago

UGH- nothing major but as you said time to visit the department of redundancy department! Looks good though!

#117 5 months ago

oh man that sucks, I was painting a steel motorcycle gas tank and when finished I picked it up to put it in the garage overnight and dropped it on the cement, I put a huge dent in it that I had to repair then repaint again.

#118 5 months ago

Nice! The repaint looks good. I can't wait to see the completed masterpiece.

12
#119 5 months ago

Final stencils: white.

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(repeating a) Note to myself: I should really be more generous with overlap. The thin overlap looks good once painted, but makes correct positioning much more delicate.

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Done!

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There's a few minor touch-ups in the whites and then the cabinet is ready for clear.

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#120 5 months ago

Absolutely beautiful work! I enjoy following your threads. A true craftsmen.

#121 5 months ago

Nice job I've got to do some masking like you've done there man, I just finished doing some extensive TF touch-ups too man even matched the nicotine white areas lol

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#122 5 months ago

Thanks guys!
gmkalos seems like yours turned out pretty nice as well.

More reasons to be cheerful today! the playfield is back and has a nice thick layer of protective clearcoat.

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I'll let it settle for a while before sanding it down for final repairs: black and woodtones. I'll address the bottom and through-holes first.

#123 5 months ago

Moving right along, why does it take me so long?

#124 5 months ago
Quoted from g94:

Thanks guys!
gmkalos seems like yours turned out pretty nice as well.
More reasons to be cheerful today! the playfield is back and has a nice thick layer of protective clearcoat.

I'll let it settle for a while before sanding it down for final repairs: black and woodtones. I'll address the bottom and through-holes first.

Wow that came out killer man!!! Thanks dude I'm also going to clear this pf for the customer in about 2 weeks once it's finished drying out completely.

#125 5 months ago

As said earlier my Time Fantasy came without display boards nor flat cables. I have harvested a spare Alien Poker for these parts, but I ran into a problem. I hope somebody can help.

The problem: because of the different backglass lay-out and position of the displays, one of the flat cables from the Alien Poker is too short (display 3). Before I try to find and order a longer flat cable: can somebody who owns a TF please check whether I'm trying to put things back correctly? And if so: is indeed flat cable 3 longer?

Thank you already

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#126 5 months ago

Hello! Layout is ok, But if its not enough long, do not hesitate buy a few m of this cable at local elctric shop or form on old pc and put up the 20 pin heads on it and you are done. Just keep noting head and red line directions!
And also i have a story for you just i cant pm to you. Please drop me a pm or e-mail to flipperlaci@gmail.com
Thanks:Laszlo

#127 5 months ago

I don't have a straight-on picture unfortunately, but the one attached should help - the 3rd display does take a long cable as it's coming from that connector you have circled in your pic. Your routing looks correct to me.

Richard

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#128 5 months ago

Thank you someotherguy! The photo helps a lot!

#129 5 months ago

Wonderful work!

#130 5 months ago

Very detailed, end well worked job what you do for this mad snail. Its a fast playing fun game for its age, and worth to keep it. (In $$$'s too)
And for the speaker panel. In my opinion the piazz flyer way is to go. Its show what the designers want. A different machine.

Yes, the production machines was just HB cut. But the whole HB is filled with lightning bolt while tf do not have any. So i think it was just a cost cut and the pictured part never made, just reused parts was used. And to be cost effective they just cut it there. This is the sam as F14 back flashers. The original idea was "complete"

More interesting to me, as many TF can be seen with blue grills while flyer shows it with black. The color ones all owner made or some are factory?

#131 5 months ago
Quoted from zuhi:

More interesting to me, as many TF can be seen with blue grills while flyer shows it with black. The color ones all owner made or some are factory?

My guess is that initially they wanted to remove both the HB-logo and the lightning bolts. But then, on the production floor, it appeared too difficult to remove these lightning bolts properly, or perhaps it was simply too much work. Hence they decided to keep the lightning bolts and to remove the HB-logo only. And perhaps, as a compromise to keep the designers happy, they painted the grill in cabinet blue to give it a more gentle look.

As said I have both covers lasercut, but I will most likely go for the version without lightning bolts. My grill is already resprayed in black, not blue

#132 5 months ago

Hehe, flatcable: check! Thanks again for the help.

DPW_0576 (resized).jpg

Luckily I have found a local company that provided me with a replacement aluminium backplate for the backbox. I had kept and cleaned the sides and it's a perfect match. In the mean while all hardware is cleaned, polished and in place.

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Cabinet next...

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ps zuhi: I have sent you a pdf with the measurements you asked.

#133 5 months ago

Rediculous. Looks amazing! I am developing an inferiority complex now- I may have to stop reading your threads

#134 5 months ago

Seriously considering respraying my king pin cabinet given how amazing yours now looks.

Did you cut the cabinet stencils on your Cricut? I am hesitant to do so on silhouette as tracking is no guarantee after so many feet.... can be done but curious if you find it a one off procedure or multiple pass and take the good ones?

#135 5 months ago

Not to distract from the g94 thread too much, I cut my SBM cab stencils on my cameo. Pm me if you are interested in any tips I might be able to share.
Now back to his fine work!

#136 5 months ago
Quoted from rufessor:

Did you cut the cabinet stencils on your Cricut?

No I'm not using Cricut for this. I did consider using Cricut at a certain point during the EBD restore, and as atari_daze states it is possible to do so, but I thought it was too much work to create all these separate small svg-files in Illustrator and to properly stitch them back together on the cabinet afterwards. Hence I abandoned that idea. A local lettering company is so kind to cut them out for me. A 2 colours set costs me about 40€ (45$) which is fair imho.

#137 5 months ago

More cabinet work. Not sure yet whether I'd polish the bolts (bottom one vs top one). I have new chrome legs.

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Transformer panel is back in. I ditched the power point since European sockets don't fit anyway.

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Better than two months ago

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#138 5 months ago

I've received my lasercut speaker grille covers.
Did a quick positioning test with both (protective film is still on).

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My decision is made: designer's original version it'll be

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#139 5 months ago

Looking fantastic!

#140 5 months ago
Quoted from g94:

My decision is made: designer's original version

Nice choice!

#141 5 months ago

Bravo!

#142 5 months ago

Laid down 4 coats of clear, going to spend some time wet sanding and prep it for the final 4 coats!

001.JPG

#143 5 months ago

I'm glad there are people in this hobby that are willing to do projects like this. I love the game. I must admit, if I had seen it in it's original state, I would've cringed, and walked away.

#144 5 months ago

gmkalos: seems like we're more or less in the same phase. As said earlier I prefer not to clearcoat my playfields myself. I don't have the tools, nor do I feel to have sufficient technical knowledge.

Clearcoating is delicate process and I want a durable result, which I'm not sure I can obtain myself. Hence I prefer relying on this guy from the car repair shop with his huge experience and professional equipment. He never failed me.

But obviously that's only me. I appreciate other people's approach and for sure it must be satisfying when one manages to achieve good results at home.

#145 5 months ago
Quoted from g94:

I appreciate other people's approach and for sure it must be satisfying when one manages to achieve good results at home.

Oh I totally understand my process is time consuming and I have a climate controlled spray booth...just takes "Time" lol Your masking techniques are awesome man and I hope to follow suit and get rid of these pesky brushes soon! You can see my TF pf progress on the SprayMax2K forum thanks.

#146 5 months ago

@Russel. Thx! Actually things looked worse than they actually were. I'm quite confident at this point that this project will end up well. I'm already thinking about the next one

1 week later
#147 5 months ago

Finally back to work. A whole week in the Alps, without pinball: the horror...

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With the layer of protective clearcoat still on the topside I consider this the best moment to address the bottom side. Lightly sanded the old paint, then filled all damaged areas and missing chips with epoxy filler. I also filled the little staple marks for a cleaner look. Then finished sanding.

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I also sanded all through-holes with the dremel and the rollover holes with some sandpaper on a piece of wood. And cleaned the inserts with a round paintbrush on a drill. Next I painted 3 layers of matte grey acrylic paint.

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Still a little wet on the photo, but it looks better than before. Back to the topside tomorrow

#148 5 months ago

Playfield touch-ups: some woodtones and a first batch of black outlines.

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I'll airbrush the remaining black areas tomorrow. The playfield is almost ready...

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#149 5 months ago

I'm in awe of your skills.

#150 5 months ago

Thx for the kind words

Plastics.
Overall they are in a better than acceptable condition. But not new anymore either. Unfortunately there are no reproduction plastics for these games, so I really want to protect what I have for possible future damage. I scanned all plastics, drew clear plastic protectors in Illustrator and got them lasercut.

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Unfortunately one plastic is already damaged, as often seems to be the case: the Time Lane plastic misses a part and is broken at the bottom. A previous owner did an attempt to fix it with black tape. Hmm

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I have a plan that might work by reproducing the missing and damaged artwork on one of these clear protectors.

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At least I hope it will work. Time will tell soon enough (unless somebody has a spare set for me? Please?...)

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