Just about all soldered on the bottom other than pop lighting (PITA!), swamp and spot lights, and a few light inserts that I needed a few more bulb holders for.
The bookcase is installed but still needs leveled. Will worry about it when we’re ready to install the playfield into the cabinet.
It’s really coming together!
Ramp is mostly installed. I’m waiting on the left ramp switch plate. It had one in the cabinet but was wrong one. Thankfully a correct one is available new. Once it comes, I’ll cinch down the ramps at ramp flaps and install the bear rug light from Lermods
Laid down Mylar at the ramp flaps, ball drain, ball drops, and swamp edge.
Looks great! I did a playfield swap once and not sure I want to do another lol. A little elbow grease on the small thing metal ramp will get the ball trails out and make it look new again.
I would and normally do but on that ramp I leave as is as it will just come back. Yeah they are a ton of work!
Mine came from the factory with "full" factory mylar, but like you, I added some at the typical important parts. I went a little further and put some where the ball drops from the shooter lane ramp(like for the skill shot) since that's such a huge/consistent ball drop area. When I take the ramp off again for some regular deep cleaning, I'll probably add some to the orbit area as the ball tends to spin in a perpendicular direction to its travel, which hastens the wear in that area.
Good idea. I haven’t seen wear on my own playfield swap from 7-8 years ago in those areas so I have not on any of the other swaps I’ve done. Never hurts though!
Quoted from dmacy:Good idea. I haven’t seen wear on my own playfield swap from 7-8 years ago in those areas so I have not on any of the other swaps I’ve done. Never hurts though!
Wow! nice job. Can't wait to see the whole thing come together! I have a TAF from the final 30-some after they broke the sales record, gold legs and cabinet art, but NOT the gold edition. It really looks 99% everywhere, but somewhere back up the line someone replaced 2 missing flipper mech screws, and used ones that were too long, causing two lumps in the pf..I bought a CPR playfield which they screened from the original spec, it's just perfect, but I have been intimidated by the complex loom. You are giving me confidence, thanks!
Makes my Silverball Mania restoration look like a child's toy.
Keep up the impressive work, and pet the Supervisor for me.
Quoted from dmacy:Good idea. I haven’t seen wear on my own playfield swap from 7-8 years ago in those areas so I have not on any of the other swaps I’ve done. Never hurts though!
Mine had some fairly decent dimples at that ramp drop off, but no real wear. I do have a small line in the orbit that I might be able to buff out, but like you say, it's really not all that bad. I'm just trying to protect mine for as long as possible before a swap. I do already have a screened CPR gold ready to go when it's time, though!
GI test completed! All is good. I always check the GI after a playfield swap, but with this one getting all new lamp sockets, it was the first check.
Swamp lamp got the new Comet colored lens indicator lamp. I did the same with the vault, Thing and the chair as shared on the TAF club thread. I’m really liking these.
Chromed wireform from Hot Rod Arcade looks fantastic.
Spotlights are wired in but need tidied up.
Insert bulbs all work too. Even uncle Lester’s bulb in his mouth.
Quoted from Insane:Looks amazing, btw, its Uncle Fester.
Thank you Thing!
But it is actually uncle Lester when you buy this one. I prefer it over the other versions.
https://pinballpro.net/shop/uncle-lester-af-1/
Quoted from dmacy:But it is actually uncle Lester when you buy this one. I prefer it over the other versions.
Yep. Copyright, Trademark, and Licensing Avoidance 101.
Quoted from dmacy:Thank you Thing!
But it is actually uncle Lester when you buy this one. I prefer it over the other versions.
https://pinballpro.net/shop/uncle-lester-af-1/[quoted image]
Understood, sorry for the misinformation. again, looks amazing...
The cabinet is ready and has landed. 80spit did a great job yet again getting it ready for me.
Ran new ground braid and getting ready to install the front RADCAL.
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RADCALS on the bottom cabinet are done. The plastic is still on the sides for protection.
How do you like the rad cals? Are they easy to put on? How did you cut out the holes for the start button and flipper buttons?
Quoted from Flipper_Ripper:How do you like the rad cals? Are they easy to put on? How did you cut out the holes for the start button and flipper buttons?
I like them for what they are. They're not a substitute for a decal, but for something that may get banged on location, they're ideal. I wouldn't do them on my own games because I prefer the decals.
They're not bad. But they're really almost as much work as decals. You really need to paint the cabinet before putting them on as they will come through if you don't. I use an exacto knife by going around the holes once installed. The other holes like playfield hinges, etc I just drill and use knife to make the squares for carriage bolts.
The cabinet is about ready. The rails are all that’s left. And the only excuse is I’m out of tape. It was run out and get some or get the rest done…
The translite is the original one. I have the mirrored one ready to go but saving that until last before it leaves to install.
Quoted from Miguel351:I recently got the newer style leg bolt plates to convert my TAF over to them and was wondering; did you have to move the power box over some to get it to fit properly or was there any interference at all with the new bolt plate?
You can move the power box but it's then a bit difficult to flip the switch, but it works.
You can also cut off one side of the plate and keep the box in it's original location.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:You can move the power box but it's then a bit difficult to flip the switch, but it works.
You can also cut off one side of the plate and keep the box in it's original location.
[quoted image]
Cool. Thanks. I'll need to remove my power box at some point anyway because since my game was a reimport, it has no service port. I was able to find pics of how a standard WPC power box should be assembled, too. Now that I have the plates, I can do both mods at the same time. Since I'm removing the power box anyway, I'll probably just drill a new hole and move the switch over, if possible.
Quoted from cconway84:Titan lockbar receiver decals are one of the easiest ways to dress up a game.
Sure, maybe any ordinary game. But once that chrome gets cleaned up, I don't know that I'd want to hide it with a decal or anything else.
I am amazed at how this machine is looking. Granted, it'll probably play about the same as my own, but I'd hate to see the two side by side. Would put mine to shame, given it's essentially still in its original 1990's condition.
I like to use apron lighting and have found purple really complements Uncle Fester. Pics are kinda hard to really show well. They look washed out but actually only highlight the purple colors in reality.
The DumbAss boards work as well as they look. And he helped me troubleshoot a self inflicted issue with some solenoids.
It’s been flawless for the last 10 games. Some typical swamp switch adjustments and it’s been off to the races. I’d like to see 100 plays without a hiccup before I’m confident. This dirty girl has had a lot replaced.
Huge thanks to Coyote who guided me to get all the right ROMS burnt. Now running Gold Roms.
Quoted from dmacy:I’ll agree the chrome does nothing to play better as I can witness on my own TAF, but I do have a chromed out creature and it’s beautiful.
Agree on the Titan receiver decals. I use them on just about everything.
Who is your source for chrome parts? I use a local guy for powdercoat but don’t have a good supplier for chrome.
Quoted from cconway84:Who is your source for chrome parts? I use a local guy for powdercoat but don’t have a good supplier for chrome.
I use Chris from Hot Rod Arcade.
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