Quoted from SR230CC:My plastics from CPR are more green than the others I have seen from CPR.
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Lot of chatter about that in a few threads.
Ya I saw that. If they have 2 variations they could at least let us choose. The green looks like it would work with an old playfield depending on how the color changed over time.
Quoted from SR230CC:All wiring done. Next I’ll finish up top side then do all the connectors.
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Your wiring looks real good. And I like the hammertone paint on your drop target assemblies.
Thanks. Wiring got a little more difficult to manage once I got to the coils. Coils are separate from switches and lamps. Much easier with the Yopp lights for sure.
Quoted from SR230CC:Playfield connectors done. Cabinet being primed with oil base killz.
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Almost sad by now I can identify those connectors, where they go and what most of the individual wires do.
Quoted from SR230CC:Playfield connectors done. Cabinet being primed with oil base killz.
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I'm guessing this is a Bally cab. Since Bally placed its transformers in the back box, it was able to center the hole for the speaker in the center of the cab.
Stern's practice was to place the transformers on the floor of the cabinet. If you are going to be using the smaller Stern 16B-3 transformer, then you can place it in the back box. But if you are going to be using the larger 16B-6 Stern transformer, you will not have room to install it in thew back box. Y
You will need to install the transformer on the floor of the cabinet. And you have a problem. With the speaker hole smack dab in the center of the play field, you will not be able to install your transformer. You will need to move the speaker hole you your left.
dc8fec009811323cbb99edb6d5c43ca7eace62eb (resized).jpg
This is how Stern did it. The transformer and rectifier board mount to a separate board at mounts to the two cabinet cross braces.
EDIT: Sorry, I was not paying attention that you are using a Homepin transformer. So, where are you going to mount it?
Quoted from cottonm4:I'm guessing this is a Bally cab. Since Bally placed its transformers in the back box, it was able to center the hole for the speaker in the center of the cab.
Stern's practice was to place the transformers on the floor of the cabinet. If you are going to be using the smaller Stern 16B-3 transformer, then you can place it in the back box. But if you are going to be using the larger 16B-6 Stern transformer, you will not have room to install it in thew back box. Y
You will need to install the transformer on the floor of the cabinet. And you have a problem. With the speaker hole smack dab in the center of the play field, you will not be able to install your transformer. You will need to move the speaker hole you your left.
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This is how Stern did it. The transformer and rectifier board mount to a separate board at mounts to the two cabinet cross braces.
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EDIT: Sorry, I was not paying attention that you are using a Homepin transformer. So, where are you going to mount it?
I am going to mount the transformer to the right of the speaker. I have a Stern Galaxy, so I know where everything is supposed to go. I think it will work fine that way. I am not cutting another hole in the cabinet bottom. Once the paint is dry in the bottom, I will lay everything out and take a picture.
I will move the knocker to the back of the cabinet. It does not need to be right in front.
Quoted from SR230CC:Anyone have a good square picture of the light insert panel or the dimensions? I need to make one.
It measures 23 3/4" tall and 26 3/4" wide.
Quoted from cottonm4:It measures 23 3/4" tall and 26 3/4" wide.
I need the dimensions for the displays and holes for the lights. I can scale it if I have a good picture.
Quoted from SR230CC:Boards mounted. More connectors completed on back box harness. Hoping to fire this thing up this weekend. I need to switch some of the pin 15 wires for the displays and add the millions digit wire. Helps a lot having a Stern to reference.
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Display wiring was tricky on mine.
Got the game to start up last night. Everything works. I need to do some switch adjustments and some smaller tasks. I bought a used Weebly MPU and could not get it to boot. I switched out with an Alltek and it worked fine. I’ll try the Weebly again later, I want to use it for the alternate code. Last big job to do is the light insert and displays. I am looking forward to not crimping connectors for awhile.
Weebly works now. I had the top drop switches wrong with the diode. The switch stack was Bally and I visually did the diodes the same as the stern. I should have paid more attention. I’ll start the light/display board this week.
Quoted from SR230CC:Playable today. Great flow. Getting right sling from right pop. Need to look into that.
Still a long list of things to do to finish er up but happy at this point.
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It lights up looking nice.
Been a long time. Backglass is in. UNO displays are assembled. Now I can measure up the light board and get this finished for now. Last thing will be to stencil the cabinet and paint the apron. I also bought a stern spinner, not sure if it will work. Was pondering to wire it in with the other spinner.
8B8185EB-C4A9-4555-AA17-5B91FF087CC6 (resized).jpeg9CD872A3-FCC4-48DB-9244-084C8D98424D (resized).jpegQuoted from SR230CC:Was pondering to wire it in with the other spinner.
That would be about the only option, yes? I like the addition.
Been a busy spring. Finally had time to finish the back box. Next I’ll paint the apron.
The holes for the displays don’t look great. Jig saw is not the best method.
2DA421F4-C763-4B1E-AC0E-1D835C9458F3 (resized).jpeg
C1BB6BD3-9A11-4E30-A88A-91B20FAA3CA0 (resized).jpeg33CB83DF-92AD-4B03-9FD0-CF68F84FCA26 (resized).jpegIs this backglass a Greatwich repro? I just started printing these and one of my concerns is the backlit text. UV ink is translucent, so I would have to put a heavy black layer to block out the area around the text. I did one with a grey backing that is totally opaque. It would be much more expensive to produce. Is it worth it?
ACB93FBE-203E-4BD4-A460-82927968E281 (resized).jpegI note that the 1, 2, 3, 4 player is not backlit. I wonder how hard it would be to add a functional player up light behind if I were to modify the glass for that feature.
I am also not a fan of the graphics that is repeated on the left and right side of each score window. It looks like we have flying mermaids and the art is repeated. I could ask Bob Timm to update that so the art is not repeated. Thoughts?
Fantastic!
Quoted from FantasticPinball:Is this backglass a Greatwich repro? I just started printing these and one of my concerns is the backlit text. UV ink is translucent, so I would have to put a heavy black layer to block out the area around the text. I did one with a grey backing that is totally opaque. It would be much more expensive to produce. Is it worth it?
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I tried lighting up my Greatwich backglass "Game Over" with a blue LED. It looked like a blue window so I had to just use a white LED.
Quoted from FantasticPinball:I note that the 1, 2, 3, 4 player is not backlit. I wonder how hard it would be to add a functional player up light behind if I were to modify the glass for that feature.
It would look cool, but how would us mere mortals light them up? What wires would we need to add? That sort of stuff.
Quoted from FantasticPinball:I am also not a fan of the graphics that is repeated on the left and right side of each score window. It looks like we have flying mermaids and the art is repeated. I could ask Bob Timm to update that so the art is not repeated. Thoughts?
I can't say I ever paid that much attention. I just now looked and see what you are saying. My old tired eyes focus in on the mermaid riding the fish.
I am more interested in finding a way to light up the left half of the back glass. It is so dark when compared to the right side; That might be the reason I never noticed the score displays graphics.
Quoted from SR230CC:Been a busy spring. Finally had time to finish the back box. Next I’ll paint the apron.
The holes for the displays don’t look great. Jig saw is not the best method.
Got an old Craftsman router a few months back, I love the thing! Well worth the bucks. Should be able to find one cheap at a yard sale.
Quoted from FantasticPinball:I note that the 1, 2, 3, 4 player is not backlit. I wonder how hard it would be to add a functional player up light behind if I were to modify the glass for that feature.
I am also not a fan of the graphics that is repeated on the left and right side of each score window. It looks like we have flying mermaids and the art is repeated. I could ask Bob Timm to update that so the art is not repeated. Thoughts?
Fantastic!
1) I'd not bother on the player mask, the odds of them being wired and the code changed to have them lit during play is pretty much slim to none. Not to mention there might not even be enough lamp drivers available for the task.
2) Some updated art would be cool to me, purists might disagree though. Most people are just happy to have a backglass that isn't delaminating.
Quoted from gdonovan:I'd not bother on the player mask, the odds of them being wired and the code changed to have them lit during play is pretty much slim to none. Not to mention there might not even be enough lamp drivers available for the task.
Adding this to the code would be dead nuts easy. Would have to check for available drivers though.
Quoted from slochar:Adding this to the code would be dead nuts easy. Would have to check for available drivers though.
You would know better than I!
It would be a feature few if any would take advantage of though.
Quoted from FantasticPinball:I note that the 1, 2, 3, 4 player is not backlit.
Manufacturers stopped using player up lamps in preference for using those lamp drivers for playfield game lamp features.
Flashing the players score became the way to indicate which player was up.
Quoted from FantasticPinball:Is this backglass a Greatwich repro? I just started printing these and one of my concerns is the backlit text. UV ink is translucent, so I would have to put a heavy black layer to block out the area around the text. I did one with a grey backing that is totally opaque. It would be much more expensive to produce. Is it worth it?
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I'd say the backing is worth it, personally.
Quoted from FantasticPinball:Is this backglass a Greatwich repro? I just started printing these and one of my concerns is the backlit text. UV ink is translucent, so I would have to put a heavy black layer to block out the area around the text. I did one with a grey backing that is totally opaque. It would be much more expensive to produce. Is it worth it?
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No mine is from CPR.
Anyone else have issues with CPR glass Bubbling? Bought this in March. I contacted them to see what they can do.
I have other back glasses from PPS and Mayfair that do not have this issue.
Anyone else have backglass other than CPR for Seawitch?
Quoted from SR230CC:Anyone else have backglass other than CPR for Seawitch?
Quoted from SR230CC:Thanks, any idea on cost?
Around 175 Euro shipped, very happy with the results. So much so I purchased 3 others.
119db780958293ef630bdee3b14865e66311629e (resized).jpgCool, I just emailed for a quote. I would pay that in a second.
Frustrating as you know. All that work to build a game from the ground up.....and then this.
Quoted from SR230CC:Cool, I just emailed for a quote. I would pay that in a second.
Frustrating as you know. All that work to build a game from the ground up.....and then this.
Just a heads up, this is just for the film which has to be attached to glass. Easy though and the glass is only 21 bucks from local glass store.
Quoted from SR230CC:Anyone else have issues with CPR glass Bubbling? Bought this in March. I contacted them to see what they can do.
I have other back glasses from PPS and Mayfair that do not have this issue.
Anyone else have backglass other than CPR for Seawitch?
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I have a Greatwich Seawitch back glass. No issues.
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