Wichita, KS
Quoted from SR230CC:Parts are going in here.
[quoted image]
Your are going to need a bigger tumbler 
(Topic ID: 303297)
Linked Games
Seawitch
Stern Electronics, 1980
Topic Gallery
Quoted from gdonovan:Me too
Did you snag the other Fireball II one on eBay?
Quoted from gdonovan:LOL
Yup.
Ok…..did you also get that Bally coin door that was the whole front of the cabinet? I was going to buy all 4 but did not want to be greedy.
Quoted from SR230CC:Ok…..did you also get that Bally coin door that was the whole front of the cabinet? I was going to buy all 4 but did not want to be greedy.
Not I, just grabbed the two assemblies I needed.
More Bally parts in a Stern title!
Quoted from SR230CC:No just needed some parts for my Power Play and the lockdown receiver was included that I can use on this build.
Rixzilla has a few for sale on Ebay I think.
1 week later
Just a short update. I did not realize I needed the coin drops to hold in the coin slots. So those are polishing now then I can finish up the coin door. Drops are also painted so those will be assembled next. New receiver ready to go. Box of wire arrived for harness construction. I need to track down an out hole kicker…will a Williams fit? The Bally one I have will not.
3B3662F6-627B-45F1-9500-6728667E0617 (resized).jpeg63329A0D-FB73-4EDF-8531-B059C9542857 (resized).jpeg795C6CD2-4B3B-464D-9673-87D5C1FFD1EE (resized).jpegA3976B62-DD9F-4617-808A-10210E619090 (resized).jpegEB402D06-09F6-4C67-8E3E-1D85BE04144B (resized).jpegQuoted from SR230CC:I need to track down an out hole kicker…will a Williams fit? The Bally one I have will not.
Some of the William's ones do look similar but can't say for sure. There are several Stern units on Ebay for around $25 or so.
Quoted from SR230CC:Thanks. Grabbed a couple. I think Star Gazer is next…need to use up all that wire I bought.
Parts are looking good! Following of course.
1 week later
1 week later
Started prepping the holes with Kruzmans kit.
Ordered everything from Mantis.
Thought that the Bally kick out ramp would work….it won’t. Found a Williams assembly on eBay. I think it will work. I will start on the bottom side tomorrow.
80FA4C84-208C-4827-8BF5-07CED729E70E (resized).jpegE2BF6E49-75DB-4F55-A708-D32D4064C412 (resized).jpegDdi you get my pictures on how to position a drop target assembly in a play field? I sent them to you two days ago.
What kind of pics do you need see? What holes don't line up.
Quoted from SR230CC:Mantis parts arrived! I need to find some good pictures of the playfield. Holes don’t line up.
[quoted image]
Quoted from SR230CC:Need some reference measurements for wire after back of playfield. The Galaxy will work to get me to the boards in the back box.
[quoted image]
On a Bally, 64" from the back of the playfield rings a bell when I was doing Seawitch.
Quoted from cottonm4:Ddi you get my pictures on how to position a drop target assembly in a play field? I sent them to you two days ago.
What kind of pics do you need see? What holes don't line up.
Yes I did. Thanks! I had to order more parts to continue. I did not trust the starter holes in the playfield. I need to figure out where the ball guides start. I want to make sure I get good flow through the loop and spinner.
Quoted from gdonovan:On a Bally, 64" from the back of the playfield rings a bell when I was doing Seawitch.
I have the measurements. The cabinet harness will be more tricky.
Quoted from SR230CC:I need to figure out where the ball guides start. I want to make sure I get good flow through the loop and spinner.
Install both side rails and the back rail. Get the left side plastic both arch plastics and keep them in reach.
Install your upper left flipper.
Make your starting point at the upper left flipper. The left plastic will be your guide.
Set your guide into position and tape down a piece of wood for a guide block. You might also place one more guide block a couple of inches farther back to help with alignment.
Remove your left plastic and install a screw into the guide bracket. Now you have the left side of the guide in position. Just follow it around to the right side of the play field using the arch plastics as your guide.
What you are looking for is for the guide to be nested under the plastics at the edge. You can move your guide blocks around to help you maintain your arch position as you start screwing the locating brackets down. While you are getting all of this set up, just install one screw per bracket---and do not tighten them all the way.
Once you have all brackets locked in with one screw, then come back and install the 2nd screw. Then tighten them all down.
That's about all there is to it. You are done.
---------------------------------------
You can do the inner orbit guides the same way, but they are not critical. Centrifugal force keeps the ball rolling on the outside guide. Don't make it complicated.
===============
Quoted from cottonm4:Install both side rails and the back rail. Get the left side plastic both arch plastics and keep them in reach.
Install your upper left flipper.
Make your starting point at the upper left flipper. The left plastic will be your guide.
[quoted image]
Set your guide into position and tape down a piece of wood for a guide block. You might also place one more guide block a couple of inches farther back to help with alignment.
[quoted image]
Remove your left plastic and install a screw into the guide bracket. Now you have the left side of the guide in position. Just follow it around to the right side of the play field using the arch plastics as your guide.
What you are looking for is for the guide to be nested under the plastics at the edge. You can move your guide blocks around to help you maintain your arch position as you start screwing the locating brackets down. While you are getting all of this set up, just install one screw per bracket---and do not tighten them all the way.
Once you have all brackets locked in with one screw, then come back and install the 2nd screw. Then tighten them all down.
[quoted image]
That's about all there is to it. You are done.
---------------------------------------
You can do the inner orbit guides the same way, but they are not critical. Centrifugal force keeps the ball rolling on the outside guide. Don't make it complicated.
===============
Thanks. Plastics on the way. Had to order some light sockets and then I can finish the lights and start on mechs.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from SR230CC:GI complete. Cliffy ordered.
Controlled lighting next.
[quoted image]
That looks real nice, I have to order a Cliffy soon myself.
Question on the switch matrix. Some column and rows call out 2 wire colors. When I compare to my Galaxy, sometimes the top wire color (spinner) is used and sometimes the bottom (Coin Slot) Does it matter or it is an either or depending on what other mechs are close?
Edit: looking closer, it depends on the game. I need to reference back to the schematics.
Quoted from SR230CC:I need to reference back to the schematics.
Yes. And when I was putting my Big Game back together, 4 wires on the play filed wiring did not match the callout on the print.
For example, purple/Black was replaced with gray/black. I can't remember what the other swapped colors were but figure the factory ran out of the wire called for on the print and rather than shut down the line, the factory used what color in had in stock.
Quoted from cottonm4:Yes. And when I was putting my Big Game back together, 4 wires on the play filed wiring did not match the callout on the print.
For example, purple/Black was replaced with gray/black. I can't remember what the other swapped colors were but figure the factory ran out of the wire called for on the print and rather than shut down the line, the factory used what color in had in stock.
I was looking at my Galaxy Vs. Schematics and found the same thing.
Up on the rotisserie and ready to start wiring. Had to build myself up to this. The drop to the ground is 39”, so that is a good start to measure wire length.
Had the playfield in the cabinet and tested the loop. Very smooth and drops to the upper left flipper perfectly.
I tried one drop target mounting according to cottonm4 instructions and it worked great.
I test fitted my sling shots. The holes on the right one are not evenly spaced but I think I can make it work. Anyone else have the large switch through holes off center from the arm hole?
06F000C2-3688-49C4-A3F1-31A2BAEAD39B (resized).jpeg9E789F85-3847-431E-8671-659F90234C2A (resized).jpegQuoted from SR230CC:Oval hole is not centered. It is on left sling.
Edit: I found a picture that shows this is normal.
[quoted image]
I have never noticed that before. After scratching my head about it, I see both holes for the switches are "centered". The reason for the offset is due to the design of the sling kicker bracket.
And I can see that if you try to match the kicker bracket to the dimples you will most likely be sorry.
Forget the dimples. Center the kicker arm in the slot and rock it all the way forward. When it gets pulled forward by the solenoid you want it to stop just at the edge of the slot/hole. And that is where you set your kicker bracket. You don't want it slamming into the edge play field slot.
In the same vein, when you go to mount the sling solenoid to the play field, put the spring on the plunger and set the solenoid into position. You will want to be sliding the solenoid and bracket around to find the optimal location position. There is a sweet spot. When you push the plunger up into the coil sleeve, the sweet spot will let the plunger glide effortlessly into the sleeve. Miss the sweet spot and then you risk having the plunger bind in the sleeve. While you are searching for the sweet spot, keep your eye on the plunger link and see how its operates when you move the solenoid bracket around and you will be able to see the different positions the plunger link have. And if you pay close attention you will be able to feel when you have the solenoid bracket in optional position; There is only one optimal position. Then set your mounting holes.
This is my Mirco Quicksilver play field. Notice how the switch is not centered in the hole. I installed this switch using Mirco's dimples as a guide (my mistake). Now I have to fill those two holes, reposition the switch and drill new holes.
Not all of the dimples are bad. I'm not saying that, but in a lot of cases, I would prefer no dimples.
Quoted from SR230CC:Just to double check. The pop bumper lights just go to GI. I see they are not on the controlled lights list.
Yes, they are normal GI.
There is a "bank connector" behind the center drop assembly they all tied too if my memory is correct. One of the brown PCB tabbed things with 2 legs to attach to the playfield.
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
