Well then. Pick your playfield…

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cottonm4 installed a Beatles ramp in his Seawitch.

Are they available for sale now?

I don't think the color matching is as critical with Seawitch as it is with Stargazer.

Stargazer certainly needs the proper color matched plastics and playfield to give it a perfect look.

I don't think the same is true with Seawitch though I may be wrong. Hopefully others can chime in.

Playfields available right now. You can choose clearcoat options. I recommend going all out. I will let people who have them now comment on what they see. The backglass and plastics will certainly be colour matched and will be top quality.

I am looking for high res plastic scans of original items or custom art items. Right now I am working on playfields, but the other items will be ready soon.

Fantastic!

1) I can help with apron decal.

2) the Bally drops work fine.

I was asked about Seawitch wiring harnesses and reconsidering making them. Have to find a supplier of wire who can do trace colors without breaking the bank. Don't mind buying a dozen or two 500 foot spools of wire so the harnesses are correct.

We all may be in luck soon gdonovan https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/comin-soon-pinball-wire-

Already reached out.

Feel free to reach out to me if you have a question on some aspect of your build.

Yes. I made the mod and use the Beatles ramp instead of the gate. I'm not sorry I did it, but I would not do it again. I though it would help with the left orbit shot and getting the ball in play for multiple orbits. I don't notice much difference in game play. The gate will work fine.

Make a clean left or right orbit is difficult which makes it all the sweeter when you pound one through.

You will find this helpful.

The factory schematic is mostly accurate but vague.

Like wiring for the sound board? Not even discussed. I figured out the wiring by looking at what the board needed for power and grounds and studying pictures to figure out where it went and came from.

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From the factory, its run off the 12v and ground feed to the MPU, I elected to run a feed directly from the A3 solenoid board to the sound board.

I ordered 50 Translucent Star Posts 1-1/16" Tall from Pinball Life, but have a bag of them left over so didn't use them all.

At $22 for the 50 the least of my expenditures.

There was a few I took the nub off the top to make sure the did not strike the plastic overhead. Like on the center plastic behind the drops.

Just used a belt sander, less complicated than ordering 2 different heights.

It's there. The wire colors are not discussed. But the J-2 and the J3 connectors are shown. But, yeah, Stern's drawing sucks.

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How about this one?

This is Star Gazer. Figure this crap out. Fortunately Shawn at 3rd Coast figured this gibberish out and sent excellent instructions with his Star Gazer wiring kit or I would still be scratching my head.

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Shown on the sound board diagram with zero discussion as to where the 12V comes from or goes too.

I have turned a 5 bank into a 4 bank. Easy enough. But to do the reverse, make a 3 into a 4 will be a challenge.

What’s your solution for the door fitting into the cabinet? Stern doors are smaller than Bally’s.

Get some 3/4" plywood ( it does not have to be plywood) and apply a size reducing border of plywood around the sides of the hole that is too large.

That will work. The Bally uses smaller flanges for mounting to the play field so will need to fill and relocate the holes in your play field.

Oh, yeah, turn the Bally bracket over that holds the targets into position and then you can use the Stern style of drop targets.

I filed the Bally holes slightly oblong, worked just fine. No new holes.

A round file for a chainsaw blade from your local big box retailer is just a short trip away.

Forget the dimples. You don't need them.

I figured out how to mount my drop target assemblies without the dimples. Same for the slingshot levers. There is one optimal position for these parts. And the dimples on my Star Gazer and Quicksilver play field were/are not in optimal position.

Here is where the 4-place drop is going my my QS build. You can see the dimples and you can see the holes.

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You will also notice that I did not use the dimples to locate the 2 GI lights. There area couple of reasons for this:

1) I loaded up on some NOS light sockets. But they all have the long mounting brackets. So, when I need a GI light, I cut and re-bend the mounting tab. And now my holes will not line up with the dimples; What I have learned that with the bayonet socket wire tabs is that you DO NOT rotate them. If you rotate the tabs they will now be loose and you will wind up with a flaky light. I did not want the wire tabs to interfere in any way with the drop target so I rotated the sockets and not the tabs; And these two dimples remain unused.

If you want to know how to set that drop target and ignore the dimples, send me a PM and I will lay it out for you.

Following, great stuff.

Words cannot describe how jealous I am of that bin.

Get yourself a cheap buffer and some polishing compound from Harbor Freight . Shine them up and spray on some rattle can clear. They will look good under the hood.