http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index1.htm

I use this website almost daily to help me fix my pins.

1. My ball kickout was weak too. I would first recommend taking it apart, cleaning the plunger and the inside of the coil with alcohol really well, then putting it back together. If that doesn't work, the coil may need to be replacing. The two I have worked on, just needed to be cleaned. should just need to take a couple screws out to take the mech apart.

2. Check IPDB.org for the instruction manual to your game. that almost always shows you how to set for free play.

3. Not sure what the problem with the 2 player game would be. I haven't ran into this one myself. Others on pinside will know, I am sure.

Good luck!

BTW, I bought my first pin 3 months ago. Now I have three. haha.

^^^ this, also check out pinwiki.com

nice first machine for sure

--Jeff

the game looks to be in nice shape. congrats on your first pin and welcome to the club.

Wow great find, that's a title I'd be looking for. Welcome to the community!

Howdy!

Nice pin!

Enjoy!

Ken

Nice find! Welcome!

Jean-Louis

and I see you managed to get it up stairs too!

welcome to Pinside

Common causes in this area include:
- gunked up, sluggish ball kicker mech. Good cleaning can help.
- Incorrect or weak coil. Not as likely, but easy to check.
- Ball not sitting in cradle fully. If the switch is keeping the ball too high, or off to a side, then it can't launch quite right.
- Kicker cradle needs 'aiming'. Ball may not be landing aligned onto ramp. The cradle can be bent a bit correct.
- Bad spring on kicker plates. When this spring is incorrect or too stiff or too weak, the incorrect lift/launch force is imparted to the ball. This causes the ball to launch too high and hit the apron first instead of heading towards the ramp, or to just 'plop' too short of the ramp.

Taking off the lower apron and watching what's happening is very helpful. With the apron off, if it starts working, then that suggests the ball was actually hitting it.

Usually a good cleaning, filing the worn-down/mushroomed edges of the cradle, and making sure the plate spring is good are enough (as long as the coil's good).

Close the middle pair of switch contacts on the Credit Unit switch stack (either with a blade adjustment tool, or can also jumper them closed with a small alligator clip jumper wire). When this middle pair of switches are open, it indicates that there are no credits (and they open when the Credit Unit is at the zero position). So making sure they're closed causes the logic to indicate there's always a credit.

Welcome. I advise you put your location in your profile. I feel you will get more involvement and help when you tell where you live. It creates a better 'feel' of who our Pinsiders are. Just my opinion.
Mike in Kentucky

No, that's not correct. The Player Unit needs to advance, and the sequence is always Player 1, Ball 1, then Player 2, Ball 1, then back to Player 1, Ball 2 and so on (alternating).

An initial thing to check is just manually step the Player Unit (in the backbox) and see that it's able to step through the whole sequence correctly (to Game Over). Once the game is on Player 1, Ball 1, then manually activating the solenoid plunger to step the unit will walk it through the sequence.

When set for a 2-player game, if the Player Unit isn't stepping after Player 1, Ball 1 drains, then can look at the logic path for the stepping the Player Unit next.

To add to what DirtFlipper said, even though it is a 2 player game, it has 4 steps to get from player 1 ball 1 to player 1 ball 2. So, after player 2, there are two dead steps that the unit must pass by to get back to player 1.

I like the layout of that play field. Very cool.

Dave

Yep you're screwed .... the second machine is not far behind and the third and fourth and so on .......

Soon you'll be like most of us thinking that you would've been better off hooked on drugs instead of pinball (lol)!

On your ball return kicker issue, in addition to everything that has been mentioned, you also need to take a look at the score motor switch that controls the kicker. Cleaning/adjusting that particular switch has done more to cure weak Gottlieb ball kicker issues than any of the other solutions, although all of those are valid too.

This is almost completely a Gottlieb issue. It happens over and over with them. I've rarely seen that issue on a Williams or a Bally. It's just a bad design issue.

I still don't see your location. Is this the $750 Top Score that was listed on Kijiji in Oshawa for a while?

I got a Top Score in Ottawa about a month ago for $850. It has a repaired/repainted cabinet but the backglass is not as nice as yours. Great game, my 10 year old loves it! We have yet to roll it yet but he has come close.

Welcome!