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(Topic ID: 266233)
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FunHouse
Williams, 1990
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Quoted from dmacy:Thanks to the FunHouse club and pinballinreno , they verified 2.5” Titans are the correct sling size. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-club/page/39#post-5615043
Looks great with transparents. Went with them near the shooter lane too. Have whites if Gerry wants to keep original. Have some clear fender washers coming to protect sling plastics.
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I think I like the white better.
White titans remind me of shiny peppermint or wintergreen lifesavers.
Maybe im a purist, old fashioned, old...etc. lol
Just seems to look clean.
Either way it looks great.
Im about 2 weeks into my funhouse resto and ordering tons if parts.
I noticed you put washers under the flatrail pegs.
A lot of people do, im on the fence about it, but will probably do the same.
I noticed that on a lot of games there is a post or a stripped out hole on the right entryway of the main ramp
I noticed that in your pic #5 you elected to not install it?
The hole in the ramp certainly interferes with the switch actuation if a post is installed there.
What is actually supposed to be there.
Or is a left over proto-something?
Any insight would be appreciated!
For reference and some pics:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-club/page/39#post-5615401
Quoted from dmacy:Looks like you have your answer, but it’s a hex that comes with the Cliffy ramp protector set that this machine had installed before. I’ll be reinstalling but waiting until I have the ramp ready.
The pictures on his instructions page show it as well:
http://www.passionforpinball.com/Funhouse/installation.htm
Thats perfect, thanks!
Quoted from dmacy:Trap door assembly is assembled. I too a handful of pics showing the details of operation. Note the small coil that “releases” (drops the trap door) the larger coil via the clip. If yours isn’t working, the small coil, it’s clip, or the switch (not shown) are the issue.
The small coil has an adjustment via bending the long tab to either increase or decrease the gap. Changing will allow how strong the clip moves. That’s one issue. If you have one with issues, make sure that tab is present. These small style coil assemblies are common to have that tab broken.
The other adjustment is the clip. This one has been tweaked but was working perfectly so I’m rolling with it until I fully install and again when powered up. The clip needs to grab the larger coil’s armature assembly. Assuming this isn’t broken or worn, the clip will grab and hold it when the trap door is raised.
Lastly is the switch which isn’t shown here. The switch actuator tells the game if the trap door is up or down. If mechanically all is working, this is what needs adjusted.
It’s easy now with nothing attached to tweak than when in the game but it can be done. Hopefully the explanation makes sense along with the pics. Let me know if you need more info or a video of it working. I ordered the trap door playfield plastic with the recessed edge from Action Pinball so have some wait time before installing the assembly.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
On the flippers update, I noticed you left off the big yellow capacitors.
Is this by intent?
Do we not need them?
I absolutely believe in getting rid of the useless tapered return spring.
Im rebuilding the same way, but i was going to replace the capacitors on mine for anti-arc relief.
I think vids guide mentioned it wouldnt hurt...maybe?
Quoted from dmacy:This will still need them. I haven’t put them on (will when soldering) bu my will. Yes on the tapered spring. Conversion is so easy and plays better so it’s a no brainer to me.
Absolutely !
One of the hardest adjustments is the lock disc.
Im going to calibrate it "live" on the rotissetie before installing my playfield.
I had quite a time fooling with it on my last funhouse...
Nor fun...
Quoted from mollyspub:Can you tell me what's required to change these to WPC ? There's a listing on Marcos site for a rebuild kit# WFLTRON that replaces A-13524-8. Would I need anything else?
Its not that exotic.
Just use the later flipper pawls, plungers and coil stops.
Check the length of the plunger to see if its similar.
Coil stops, check them too.
And throw away the tapered coil teturn spring.
Add in the spring that goes from the pawl to the EOS bracket.
Thats it.
Quoted from dmacy:Plastics are on. I have to solder in the new optos for Rudy so they’re not on permanently yet. I tweaked a few star posts to add some color from the plain old clears but easily changed if Gerry wants down the road. Any rubber rings for these star posts are now Titan whites.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Really interesting on the extra holes in the plastics.
I have 2 sets of old NOS ones left.
At least 15 years old.
Ill do a comparison just to make sure they are correct.
Right now im molexing all the mechs and switch wires on mine.
While waiting for my new cab.
Flood damage is a bitch lol...
Quoted from topkat:Looks great with the colored posts
I am curious the clear plastic that goes behind the trap door, it looks like the new one covers the Hinge on the playfield. Is that correct? The one on mine began after the hinge..
Ty
Its supposed to be machined out.
Ill have to look at mine.
I have a couple complete NOS doors and i just bought the plastic from action pinball.
Quoted from dmacy:Progress. Ramps are on with their new switches/optos. Eject disc came in and the main ramp is diverter are installed.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I like those coil wrappers, are they from PPS?
Also can you post a close up of your lamp shade ramp installation and hook up connector?
Mine is missing I have the all the parts to build it and Im waiting for the replacement from Cliffy.
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Great Pics!
I found the connector thanks to your pics.
I see you opted for the 5smd tower, did it originally have a 12v #906 bulb?
I cant recall from my last FH, but I thought it was a regular #44.
Looks like Ill have a lampshade soon.
Thank you so much!
Quoted from dmacy:Assembled the mirror with non ghosting frosted LED’s and installed.
Here’s the areas I’ve installed the extra plastics. Have a few more that I’ll install when it’s fully complete.
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What color leds did you end up with on the mirror?
Im on the fence about the colored leds.
Im thinking of condoms over frosted sunlight to give is a softer glow?
Or maybe a patina like the old tempura painted lights that they used to do at carnivals.
Quoted from schwism:I’ve been puzzling over the lampshade light. Is it a controlled light? The wiring doesn’t seem consistent with GI. I’m assuming from what you said suggests this is a 6V light. Haven’t been able to get mine to light.
Do you have 6v at the connector? it should just be a part of the GI lighting I would think.
Trace the wires back to the source?
Quoted from schwism:No voltage at the connector. Tracing should be interesting since the two wires go into bundles and may or may not go to the head.
Like you I’d think it would be GI but the wiring is different. The top GI has a few yellow/yellow white wires that go to sockets. From those sockets it feeds other sockets with yellow wires. The plug in for the lampshade light has different colored wires.
Cut the nylon ties and trace the wire...
Quoted from Squeakman:I’ve heard that if you are not very careful with those they will short out and blow? I cant remember what thread I read that in. I had my eye on the bright mods rings that snap right into the light socket. Seems cleaner and easier.
Im a big fan of the frosted/translucent and clear/colored pop bumper bodies from Zitt :
This coupled with the 7 led discs from comet, they shine up and down:
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/pop-bumper-discs
They plug in for easy replacement if needed.
Quoted from schwism:I’m thinking about replacing the decal. I’m guessing I need to drill out the rivets that hold the flap so I can remove the plastic. The decal sits (I think) on a solid piece of metal.
Am I missing anything?
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Thats about it.
I agree with bryan.
Condoms on the billboard mirror LEDs.
Otherwise they all just look white when the game is off
Quoted from dmacy:Tested insert lighting. Everything works!
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Looks great, im putting in some dual flex heads on some of the bigger inserts on mine.
Quoted from dmacy:Spunky has landed.
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Nice clean work!
Quoted from dmacy:Apron wireform is back on which is the finishing touch. Put the tilt hardware back on.
Gerry has new mirror blades and speakers to go on but otherwise I think this is a wrap! Put another few games on while on my work “lunch break”
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Did you paint and decal the apron?
The gloss black looks great.
Im thinking of using appliance gloss black for my apron.
Quoted from dmacy:LED with the condom
I like the condoms on the billboard mirror and exposed leds.
They look too white to me without them, when the game is turned off.
Quoted from dmacy:Yes that’s what I do to most of my own machines too but not everyone likes that.
Yep
2 weeks later
Quoted from EricHadley:Thanks!
Rustoleum 2x deep blue.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/2020-funhouse-resto/page/2#post-5569024
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Haledon, NJ
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