Quoted from Lodi:
Amazing work! I really enjoyed reading your updates. I learned a great deal. I'm going to attempt a restore my FunHouse PF. if I get in over my head you will be the first one I contact.
I have a couple of questions. Do you use a sonic cleaner or tumbler for parts cleaning? Your parts look amazing. Aside from the WPC style flipper rebuild, LEDs, Cliffy's protectors and rails are there any other upgrades you recommend? Any particular LED light kit?
I'm glad this has been a help. So many others are where I learned so trying to pay it forward. It's really not too bad but know your limits and take your time!
I use ultrasonic diluted simple green with steam distilled swater with the bed heated to 40C unless I have plastic parts which I don't heat. Some parts are too far gone or if you want them super nice, you should consider nickel plating. I'm not against that personally, but above and beyond what I can take care of unless someone would do the leg work for their machine. I tumble for 48 hours with Flitz using walnut shells. Anything too large to fit will get done by hand.
FH upgrades: get the full cliffy set (including ramps entries and diverter, shooter lane) but I didn't use the two drop areas here even though he had them as they didn't fit well guessing from being a bit thicker with the clear? I used the Mantis versions with mylar on PF so should be well protected. If you have any issues on the scoops, get them from him too! Pinsound on this sounds awesome and it's just factory speakers so far! Mirror blades look good but my experience has been these have tight clearances so careful with them!
For general upgrades, any known way to bulletproof a problem area either mechanically or for wear I'd recommend. I also like to use new coil labels as they finish off the look that you spend so much time and money on. Plan on new sling hardware if available. I haven't done many that weren't worn out to some degree. With the flippers, get new bushings and base plates if they're hacked/stripped out. New coil plunger stops, new optos and switches should really be done too while it's torn down. Get a large sheet of mylar for custom fitting to areas to protect. Ramp flaps, ball drops, ball trough, etc.
I don't use LED kits unless someone was dead set on using them. Not sure if you were curious on the choices I use, but personally like to color match inserts with exception to yellow and orange where I prefer sunlights, warm whites, pink or purples. GI is usually picked by the requester but really liking the sunlights as they give the plastics the best original look. Cool and warm whites work fine too depending on colors.