FunHouse
Williams, 1990Quoted from dmacy:Some very minor details but it’s 100% and plays as it should. Fast, precise and tough!
Couple pics of initial start up with Rudy’s flesh not yet installed and some in process game play.
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I may have missed it but are there any plans to freshen up the lockdown reciever ?
Quoted from mollyspub:I may have missed it but are there any plans to freshen up the lockdown reciever ?
I’m just doing the playfield but could if he wants.
Did some adjustments on a few switches and targets. The switch for trap door at subway needed adjustment and the right lock switch. Super dog targets were working fine but wanted them a bit more sensitive. It plays really nice! I’m at 45-50 games on it and has been rock solid.
Few pics of the finished product.
4F767756-5FF9-4849-8B99-4AADD35647E6 (resized).jpeg6340B456-B39E-484D-8D1E-FEDFB713443F (resized).jpegC36EA233-95D9-49B8-BC47-89AA387833DB (resized).jpegA8BE25F1-636C-4165-ABC2-50E0FE309F75 (resized).jpegE9184F15-F9D6-4D5C-B7CB-243D5A8443C5 (resized).jpeg582F8501-6D47-4F47-83EA-5CB96D129CAE (resized).jpeg6449D72B-7FA4-46F3-806F-D6DB2F2BF782 (resized).jpegB2C516FE-9392-4784-969B-7931062B75CB (resized).jpegF84D9EF7-0C32-4EE2-AA7A-345EC85F1C26 (resized).jpegLooks amazing! Did you end up having any issues with the disc ball lock?
This has been a very informative and entertaining thread
Quoted from topkat:Looks amazing! Did you end up having any issues with the disc ball lock?
This has been a very informative and entertaining thread
Thanks! It came out very nice.
No that’s a good question. I was able to “field” test but when you install a new disc it really has little adjustment to allow it to be open enough to let a ball they on the entering side. That’s pretty much the way to set it up. Testing it by hand worked good and had to do no adjustments at all.
Apron wireform is back on which is the finishing touch. Put the tilt hardware back on.
Gerry has new mirror blades and speakers to go on but otherwise I think this is a wrap! Put another few games on while on my work “lunch break” 
277B1A50-D8B2-434F-A23C-A3D3A4C13D43 (resized).jpeg37516F85-5C60-4216-A74D-BB34811BBB42 (resized).jpegD5D7CF84-A799-4E15-BA8C-D0F367A764CE (resized).jpegAAD02B48-4B78-48C8-AB42-45CF4ED6AC9F (resized).jpegQuoted from dmacy:Apron wireform is back on which is the finishing touch. Put the tilt hardware back on.
Gerry has new mirror blades and speakers to go on but otherwise I think this is a wrap! Put another few games on while on my work “lunch break”
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Did you paint and decal the apron?
The gloss black looks great.
Im thinking of using appliance gloss black for my apron.
Quoted from schwism:Great job. Glad to see this in playing shape but I’ll miss the progress updates. Learned a lot.
Thanks. It was a lot of fun!
There's other ones I've done that can be seen here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-swaps-in-reading-pa-#post-5612900
If anyone is looking to have something swapped, I have time now to get one done.
Quoted from dmacy:Thanks. It was a lot of fun!
There's other ones I've done that can be seen here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-swaps-in-reading-pa-#post-5612900
If anyone is looking to have something swapped, I have time now to get one done.
Courious what you generally charge 
Quoted from mollyspub:Courious what you generally charge
It ranges from 500 to 1250 depending on what is done. Parts obviously will take prices up, if I’m getting the parts, etc. A swap with adding in buying plastics, ramps, and some ancillaries can obviously raise it further.
Some have wanted just a basic swap and not wanting to go with new ramps or plastics which is fine. But since you’re tearing down this far, it makes sense to replace these things.
Quoted from dmacy:It ranges from 500 to 1250 depending on what is done. Parts obviously will take prices up, if I’m getting the parts, etc. A swap with adding in buying plastics, ramps, and some ancillaries can obviously raise it further.
Some have wanted just a basic swap and not wanting to go with new ramps or plastics which is fine. But since you’re tearing down this far, it makes sense to replace these things.
That's a very good price range! 
Amazing work! I really enjoyed reading your updates. I learned a great deal. I'm going to attempt a restore my FunHouse PF. if I get in over my head you will be the first one I contact.
I have a couple of questions. Do you use a sonic cleaner or tumbler for parts cleaning? Your parts look amazing. Aside from the WPC style flipper rebuild, LEDs, Cliffy's protectors and rails are there any other upgrades you recommend? Any particular LED light kit?
Thanks,
Dave
Quoted from Lodi:Amazing work! I really enjoyed reading your updates. I learned a great deal. I'm going to attempt a restore my FunHouse PF. if I get in over my head you will be the first one I contact.
I have a couple of questions. Do you use a sonic cleaner or tumbler for parts cleaning? Your parts look amazing. Aside from the WPC style flipper rebuild, LEDs, Cliffy's protectors and rails are there any other upgrades you recommend? Any particular LED light kit?
Thanks,
Dave
I'm glad this has been a help. So many others are where I learned so trying to pay it forward. It's really not too bad but know your limits and take your time!
I use ultrasonic diluted simple green with steam distilled swater with the bed heated to 40C unless I have plastic parts which I don't heat. Some parts are too far gone or if you want them super nice, you should consider nickel plating. I'm not against that personally, but above and beyond what I can take care of unless someone would do the leg work for their machine. I tumble for 48 hours with Flitz using walnut shells. Anything too large to fit will get done by hand.
FH upgrades: get the full cliffy set (including ramps entries and diverter, shooter lane) but I didn't use the two drop areas here even though he had them as they didn't fit well guessing from being a bit thicker with the clear? I used the Mantis versions with mylar on PF so should be well protected. If you have any issues on the scoops, get them from him too! Pinsound on this sounds awesome and it's just factory speakers so far! Mirror blades look good but my experience has been these have tight clearances so careful with them!
For general upgrades, any known way to bulletproof a problem area either mechanically or for wear I'd recommend. I also like to use new coil labels as they finish off the look that you spend so much time and money on. Plan on new sling hardware if available. I haven't done many that weren't worn out to some degree. With the flippers, get new bushings and base plates if they're hacked/stripped out. New coil plunger stops, new optos and switches should really be done too while it's torn down. Get a large sheet of mylar for custom fitting to areas to protect. Ramp flaps, ball drops, ball trough, etc.
I don't use LED kits unless someone was dead set on using them. Not sure if you were curious on the choices I use, but personally like to color match inserts with exception to yellow and orange where I prefer sunlights, warm whites, pink or purples. GI is usually picked by the requester but really liking the sunlights as they give the plastics the best original look. Cool and warm whites work fine too depending on colors.
Thanks for the great info. Sonic cleaner and tumbler on order. Cliffys on the list already. Will look at Mantis for scoops. Pinsound and Mirror blades look cool.
Do you custom cut your mylar or use a kit?
Replace switches and coil plunger stops regardless of condition? Flipper bushings definitely need replacement as do the shooters.
Thanks for the insight on the bulbs. Very helpful. Need to do further investigation on the LEDs.
Again, I appreciate all the good info and tips. I can see where this is getting to be a slippery slope!
Quoted from Lodi:Thanks for the great info. Sonic cleaner and tumbler on order. Cliffys on the list already. Will look at Mantis for scoops. Pinsound and Mirror blades look cool.
Do you custom cut your mylar or use a kit?
Replace switches and coil plunger stops regardless of condition? Flipper bushings definitely need replacement as do the shooters.
Thanks for the insight on the bulbs. Very helpful. Need to do further investigation on the LEDs.
Again, I appreciate all the good info and tips. I can see where this is getting to be a slippery slope!
I have the kits that come with some precut pieces that are good, but a full sheet and cut to fit all the odd places is helpful.
Switches: usually all the microswitches because most are original to the machine. I will add a caveat I've been finding a lot of the new switches having some issues and the gram weight seems to not work as well as the originals. I had posted a thread about this here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cherry-microswitches-actuating-tab-nub-selections#post-5601746
but not really done any deep research to find out why, etc.
Coil plungers: flippers always, slings most always, and others as needed. My rule is if they're questionable, replace them. Why spend all this time and not if you're right there torn down. Some aren't obviously worn or damaged until they are cleaned. Fiipper bats should be added to this too. Most times once you clean them you'll find that they're cracked inside.
The LED thing is so much personal taste. Thankfully most people I've done for either want all incandescent so there's no question or they know what they like. Pictures just don't show up well as in person either. And then there's the sign lights: do you go with a frosted color or an LED with the condom. More personal taste.
No problem! If you plan to do a few, it's worth getting some of the tools to make your life easier. Or find out what tools your pinball friends have locally and network to get ones they don't so you can help each other!
Quoted from dmacy:LED with the condom
I like the condoms on the billboard mirror and exposed leds.
They look too white to me without them, when the game is turned off.
Quoted from dmacy:Yes that’s what I do to most of my own machines too but not everyone likes that.
Yep
Found a good solution using some plastic/nylon washers to add some thickness to the cabinet when installing mirror blades.
I installed these in Gerry’s FH but the posts on the newer style slides use the same diameter sleeve nuts so in theory should work too.
069225FB-30AB-445D-95FF-B0EDB0403D04 (resized).jpeg98C90FA9-389F-4A8B-BFC9-C707C5732B3B (resized).jpeg5B836616-51EF-48B1-BEAA-6FCD06D6B7E9 (resized).jpeg65018A38-824F-45BA-91D7-65DC455F6F20 (resized).jpegEDAA457C-2720-45DB-B8DB-79760E10A6C4 (resized).jpegHere’s the specs of you want to try this. I got them from HD or Lowe’s a while back as a way to keep the hinges away from the cabinet (which works great too!).
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For the stainless parts did you say you use a flap wheel? What size and grit?
BTW, if you get tired of answering my questions just let me know. This is all new to me so I'm eager to learn.
Thanks!
I use a 60 than 80 grit to follow up with the flap wheel. I use the ones that I put in my portable drill.
I had to run out to the garage for something and Rudy mocked me to play a game. Who am I to refuse him?!
Was a good thing because I found the one coin door LED bulb flickering. Loose wire on the lock down handle side which always happens. Resoldered it up and back to two lamps.
D19CB00F-2150-4864-89FD-D327A5881261 (resized).jpeg051E5AAE-DBBA-47B9-B675-A8A24A6A8E12 (resized).jpeg1072AAAF-629E-4503-AEB7-C7A155BDC2BB (resized).jpeg15CE8ACB-96AB-4C20-89BC-9FDAD15FBDC4 (resized).jpeg3454D008-BF78-4543-8028-C2575E270A56 (resized).jpegADF6869C-AC1D-4122-9510-94CA006E0A81 (resized).jpegB0B10304-4028-4504-865E-CD570625323D (resized).jpegIn a scary turn of events, a Fire took over my garage but fortunately Gerry’s FH made it out safely first.
But seriously, Gerry picked up his FH tonight and he knew I’ve been after a decent Fire! for a while. We did some wheelin’ and dealin’ to get me into one. Big thanks to Gerry and super happy to see he has it back. I’m hoping he does his cabinet to put the icing on the cake. It was an honor to revive it.
The Fire! will have a new thread. Stay tuned...
D140F661-F316-4B5E-A7B5-5D22BB9DA894 (resized).jpeg1D8C5737-F903-4DB1-ADDA-87E508603A87 (resized).jpegQuoted from EricHadley:I’m in the middle of my own funhouse refurb. I am also going to re-do the cabinet. Anybody know what color blue it is? I am hopeful to use spray paint in a can, but idk.
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This isn't mine but here ya go.
image (resized).pngimage (resized).pngQuoted from EricHadley:Thanks!
Rustoleum 2x deep blue.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/2020-funhouse-resto/page/2#post-5569024
My rule: Always replace the sleeves if you’re taking anything apart. If the sleeves are too difficult to push out by hand: replace the coil. Not an official rule but mine. Cleaning coils assuming they’re in good nick: ultrasonic and dry with a fan for 2+ days.
Now is the time to commit. Planetary sells the coil labels but they don’t hold very well.
Share some pics! It’s always cool to see a machine get a makeover.
Thanks Dave! I will start a build thread in the next week or two. I just got my beautiful new Micro playfield, ramps, and plastics. My wife was floored when she saw them in comparison to the old ones. She had no clue the machine was so beat. Almost done disassembling and documenting the old playfield. I need to begin cleaning parts and putting together a parts order, then I can begin reassembling and documenting the build. Just understanding the parts and figuring out how to order them is a trick in itself. I wish someone made a playfield hardware kit. I will replace most of the pieces and it would save me having to figure it all out, but I guess that's part of the fun. I know more today than I knew a week ago! 
Quoted from Lodi:Thanks Dave! I will start a build thread in the next week or two. I just got my beautiful new Micro playfield, ramps, and plastics. My wife was floored when she saw them in comparison to the old ones. She had no clue the machine was so beat. Almost done disassembling and documenting the old playfield. I need to begin cleaning parts and putting together a parts order, then I can begin reassembling and documenting the build. Just understanding the parts and figuring out how to order them is a trick in itself. I wish someone made a playfield hardware kit. I will replace most of the pieces and it would save me having to figure it all out, but I guess that's part of the fun. I know more today than I knew a week ago!
Crazy how much nicer they are compared side by side huh? Even my non pinball wife remarks how much nicer the new playfields look.
The hardware kit would be a nice idea. Most of the screws can be cleaned and reused. It’s the posts and stud posts that usually break or broken and they can be $3-5 each!
Have fun and start a thread.
dmacy I recognize that this thread is a little old but was wondering if you typically do anything to prep the Mirco PF prior to building up (such as wax). I also noticed that you didn't mention placing mylar in between the pop bumpers, is that something you're not concerned with?
Quoted from PinballPat:dmacy I recognize that this thread is a little old but was wondering if you typically do anything to prep the Mirco PF prior to building up (such as wax). I also noticed that you didn't mention placing mylar in between the pop bumpers, is that something you're not concerned with?
Yes I clean the playfield and wax before I do anything. They usually have beveled holes( not this older Mirco but newer ones do) for screws so unless they’re missing or off it’s ready to go.
As for Mylar, I don’t install on pop bumper areas unless requested. Ball drop or known heavy wear areas are usually the only places I put it down.
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Cheektavegas, NY