FunHouse
Williams, 1990Quoted from dmacy:Comet rings. Color matched to the cap colors. These are the ones you need to notch inside the cap for the leads and hot glue inside.
These:
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/pop-bumper-rings
I’ve heard that if you are not very careful with those they will short out and blow? I cant remember what thread I read that in. I had my eye on the bright mods rings that snap right into the light socket. Seems cleaner and easier.
Quoted from Squeakman:I’ve heard that if you are not very careful with those they will short out and blow? I cant remember what thread I read that in. I had my eye on the bright mods rings that snap right into the light socket. Seems cleaner and easier.
Im a big fan of the frosted/translucent and clear/colored pop bumper bodies from Zitt :
This coupled with the 7 led discs from comet, they shine up and down:
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/pop-bumper-discs
They plug in for easy replacement if needed.
I have never used these rings before but was requested. Heard of possible issues too and have put the glue in 4-5 place to help that issue. I guess we will see!
And ditto on Zitt’s clear bodies! Used them a few times now and they look great lit up. On FH I think they’ll better show off since they’re mostly visible.
Quoted from dmacy:I have never used these rings before but was requested. Heard of possible issues too and have put the glue in 4-5 place to help that issue. I guess we will see!
And ditto on Zitt’s clear bodies! Used them a few times now and they look great lit up. On FH I think they’ll better show off since they’re mostly visible.
I can tell you from experience the white ring is the one most prone to shorting since it sits on top of the metal shooter lane ramp. I recommend you use the hot glue much more liberally on that one.
Rudy jaw motor assembly. Very light coat (Thin smear) of super lube.
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DCBD0BC4-620D-4C24-9715-FB6EC38410CC (resized).jpeg8D20B618-49F5-4CDA-8F5D-8DC430545045 (resized).jpeg8E7D8210-D82F-4FFA-A9F8-F9A636EF6C87 (resized).jpegB48E3465-0F6F-4E93-B621-795E293E6535 (resized).jpegA44B2721-9D0C-4146-A30D-87F90CD86473 (resized).jpeg5F246E15-F7F9-4634-9E78-7A9375061D0E (resized).jpeg10C5C424-0CDE-4FCD-9FFC-A7AF5569F60C (resized).jpeg824FE04D-241B-4F9E-A41C-2FB4753BDDE0 (resized).jpeg4BE97777-C2DE-49B3-B3D4-DAAF3571336E (resized).jpegA3134E6F-3769-466E-889B-6FDB28D2E7B7 (resized).jpeg519ADEA8-FB27-4476-B40C-370B48DF9530 (resized).jpegQuoted from dmacy:Completed and installed on playfield.
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Are you going to add the missing brass counter weight rod to the
eyelid plunger assembly? The brass rod always falls off.
Quoted from dmacy:Replaced the trap door with new plastic, decal and flap.
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I’m thinking about replacing the decal. I’m guessing I need to drill out the rivets that hold the flap so I can remove the plastic. The decal sits (I think) on a solid piece of metal.
Am I missing anything?
F3720A5C-0DAC-4876-A9A8-1BD84630C0C6 (resized).jpegQuoted from schwism:I’m thinking about replacing the decal. I’m guessing I need to drill out the rivets that hold the flap so I can remove the plastic. The decal sits (I think) on a solid piece of metal.
Am I missing anything?
[quoted image]
Thats about it.
Yes decal is attached to the plastic. You do have to drill out rivets on the non hinge side. So if you do that you might as well get a new flap. Pinbits has that flap in stock and where I got this one.
Switch replacement with new clear tubing and diodes in progress. Also got new sling switches as the old ones were pretty rough.
Some switch dimples are off so checking one by one like the shooter lane switch. Most of the left side switches are installed as are most of the coils soldered.
C825DADA-0D56-413D-8C15-55DDD60D620D (resized).jpeg4D8178F3-B163-4070-B5EF-BD5219456975 (resized).jpeg04F88EF8-DEA9-45E9-A443-7E375CDD4D74 (resized).jpeg6C6EDE31-84EB-4725-A39C-7D74B5582FA5 (resized).jpegA3F78532-3411-4ABA-BD96-F5A29AB4113C (resized).jpegA3C96668-DBD8-4631-B875-BFEC1DA623F3 (resized).jpeg3C360E8C-C1C2-422C-98DF-B38FE9ECBD73 (resized).jpeg908EBBF6-D0BA-45E8-A8A3-8C86A1617222 (resized).jpegAE8E0B58-04AD-447F-AFEF-053F48CD3A93 (resized).jpegEDBABF18-A956-4A15-80AC-A01E2AF02968 (resized).jpegI finally made up the missing hidden hallway sign bracket/narrow blue rubber bracket. I had a good “L” bracket for the sign and used an old ball trough metal runway to get the right bracket for the narrow blue rubber. Sometimes you have to make what you need.
0905AAD0-045D-4C5D-93AB-AD404AEE8FB7 (resized).jpeg33479285-311B-4E9E-B88F-7859A5AB856B (resized).jpegA35691DF-85B2-491D-B743-359FB78B9D78 (resized).jpegD4E31354-75E0-4D43-8C87-C7C12201C35C (resized).jpegQuoted from dmacy:I finally made up the missing hidden hallway sign bracket/narrow blue rubber bracket. I had a good “L” bracket for the sign and used an old ball trough metal runway to get the right bracket for the narrow blue rubber. Sometimes you have to make what you need.
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Question on the blue pads. I have the narrow one as shown but do not have the square pads at the ends of the habitrails and at the bottom of the Steps ramp. Are all 3 supposed to have pads?
Quoted from zerbam:found the service book online and the pages mentioned ....thanks
Can you please share the link? Could not find it
thx!
Quoted from schwism:Question on the blue pads. I have the narrow one as shown but do not have the square pads at the ends of the habitrails and at the bottom of the Steps ramp. Are all 3 supposed to have pads?
Yes, both habitrails get the blue square. The metal drop from steps should not.
Quoted from dmacy:Yes, both habitrails get the blue square. The metal drop from steps should not.
Thanks. That makes sense.
Really enjoying this thread. Bet you can’t wait to have Rudy taunting you again.
link to service bulletins
Service Bulletin Book 1991
SB22
Problem: Trap Door Flap ( A-13962 ) bending or breaking.
Solution: install bracket 01-10223 with Phillips trusshead screw.
---------- ( part # 4106-01033-08 )
pg.17 has drawing of setup.
Basically an air gap in the front blue tempered steel plate and playfield.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
SB 28
Stress on the A-14155 Trap Door Hinge.
remount Trap Door Mechanism Assembly
forward .150"
Remove some material from chute assembly A-13966
Quoted from schwism:Thanks. That makes sense.
Really enjoying this thread. Bet you can’t wait to have Rudy taunting you again.
Yes I miss mine sometimes. At least I’ll get to play a few on this!
Quoted from zerbam:link to service bulletins
http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1991.pdf
Service Bulletin Book 1991
SB22
Problem: Trap Door Flap ( A-13962 ) bending or breaking.
Solution: install bracket 01-10223 with Phillips trusshead screw.
---------- ( part # 4106-01033-08 )
pg.17 has drawing of setup.
Basically an air gap in the front blue tempered steel plate and playfield.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
SB 28
Stress on the A-14155 Trap Door Hinge.
remount Trap Door Mechanism Assembly
forward .150"
Remove some material from chute assembly A-13966
Thx!
Officially all switches/targets and soldering is wrapped up. Someone was clever with the solder plug as a rivet or screw/nut.
Yes my wife is a huge fan of Primos. I wasn’t kidding about my wife liking to eat.
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Top side is wrapped up. Placed Mylar at kickout, drop at mirror and few other areas balls drop. Wire forms are installed after a hand chrome polish job.
Just waiting for the Rudy eye plunger but believe other than cleaning up some wiring, it’s ready for install and testing. Where is that guy that said my wiring needs work before I even cleaned it up?! 
84141B5C-5033-4863-8C9B-7688828FF7DE (resized).jpeg9E8A8D0A-6387-47DB-B943-C98FFAFD7C24 (resized).jpegC1733CD5-CB2D-41D8-A1EE-BE8A8EA01E61 (resized).jpegEBAD6D1E-03F2-42BD-9B83-D7A24158FA35 (resized).jpegD94F20EB-DE48-49D4-8472-07A5F7049944 (resized).jpegD6607867-6612-411C-88B7-04EF29D12B63 (resized).jpegE57F543F-FDF8-4DB7-BBBF-E902C5B06F18 (resized).jpegI agree with bryan.
Condoms on the billboard mirror LEDs.
Otherwise they all just look white when the game is off
GI lighting tests passed.
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Quoted from dmacy:Tested insert lighting. Everything works!
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Looks great, im putting in some dual flex heads on some of the bigger inserts on mine.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Looks great, im putting in some dual flex heads on some of the bigger inserts on mine.
Yes! I did that to the 12 o’clock red arrow For just that reason too.
How in the hell did I miss this!
Another beautiful dmacy restoration thread. I never get tired of these. Well done sir!
Quoted from dmacy:Thanks Peter regarding the blue ballon plastics. Swapped them to be correct. Nice catch!
[quoted image][quoted image]
I had thought this was just part of you adding random plastics.
Quoted from mollyspub:I had thought this was just part of you adding random plastics.
I honestly didn’t mean for this one. It came that way and do prefer to keep them original at least for regular placement parts.
Quoted from dmacy:Yes! Waiting to get this in but great catch.
Quoted from vec-tor:Are you going to add the missing brass counter weight rod to the
eyelid plunger assembly? The brass rod always falls off.
New plunger came and now installed.
049BE52C-A98B-4D52-877C-5464E72EE24A (resized).jpeg16848D03-F299-4AD0-BCE5-17DF1EFF05C3 (resized).jpegSpunky has landed.
260FC5AA-9C26-4852-AA06-2AF3766E350F (resized).jpegFFBF5103-E5A6-4434-AE1A-5049E938C2DC (resized).jpeg3A15AF75-A33F-45BE-AA35-12710A9503AF (resized).jpeg75EE74BD-352E-4867-9E94-5CF65501AF05 (resized).jpeg83C0A774-D9EB-49C7-A12D-2EBD1E3DAD61 (resized).jpegE706326A-001F-4A24-9A89-C1850E93D635 (resized).jpegQuoted from dmacy:Spunky has landed.
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Nice clean work!
Quoted from pinballinreno:Nice clean work!
Thanks it came out very nice. I had to adjust two switches but was turnkey so far with 20 very gentleman games lol!
Some very minor details but it’s 100% and plays as it should. Fast, precise and tough!
Couple pics of initial start up with Rudy’s flesh not yet installed and some in process game play.
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