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(Topic ID: 266233)

Another Funhouse playfield swap #3


By dmacy

7 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 238 posts
  • 26 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by dmacy
  • Topic is favorited by 23 Pinsiders

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There are 238 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 5.
#101 7 months ago

While another batch goes in the tumbler, the sign with 10 rivets is completed. I “think” that’s the end of riveting.

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#102 7 months ago

Thanks to the FunHouse club and pinballinreno , they verified 2.5” Titans are the correct sling size. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-club/page/39#post-5615043

Looks great with transparents. Went with them near the shooter lane too. Have whites if Gerry wants to keep original. Have some clear fender washers coming to protect sling plastics.
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#103 7 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Thanks to the FunHouse club and pinballinreno , they verified 2.5” Titans are the correct sling size. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-club/page/39#post-5615043
Looks great with transparents. Went with them near the shooter lane too. Have whites if Gerry wants to keep original. Have some clear fender washers coming to protect sling plastics.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I think I like the white better.

White titans remind me of shiny peppermint or wintergreen lifesavers.

Maybe im a purist, old fashioned, old...etc. lol

Just seems to look clean.

Either way it looks great.

Im about 2 weeks into my funhouse resto and ordering tons if parts.

#104 7 months ago

I noticed you put washers under the flatrail pegs.

A lot of people do, im on the fence about it, but will probably do the same.

#105 7 months ago

Yes I prefer to protect the playfield from the spades digging in.

#106 7 months ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Yikes. That should be a small hex set screw. That is a hack.

Took it apart and found the original hole was okay but partly broken. Probably could be used but I think I’ll replace it. Shaft is a little beat up but useable.

#107 7 months ago

Another riveting question. What is the proper size rivet for redoing plastics? I’m guessing I need washers too.

Thanks again. By the way the teardown is done. Piece of cake compared to Earthshaker.

#108 7 months ago

I noticed that on a lot of games there is a post or a stripped out hole on the right entryway of the main ramp

I noticed that in your pic #5 you elected to not install it?

The hole in the ramp certainly interferes with the switch actuation if a post is installed there.

What is actually supposed to be there.

Or is a left over proto-something?

Any insight would be appreciated!

For reference and some pics:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-club/page/39#post-5615401

#109 7 months ago
Quoted from schwism:

Another riveting question. What is the proper size rivet for redoing plastics? I’m guessing I need washers too.
Thanks again. By the way the teardown is done. Piece of cake compared to Earthshaker.

Great to hear. Yes this one is much easier than it looks!

Get the kit from pin restore too. It will have washers and the common sizes needed. There’s not just one sized you’ll need.

#110 7 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I noticed that on a lot of games there is a post or a stripped out hole on the right entryway of the main ramp
I noticed that in your pic #5 you elected to not install it?
The hole in the ramp certainly interferes with the switch actuation if a post is installed there.
What is actually supposed to be there.
Or is a left over proto-something?
Any insight would be appreciated!
For reference and some pics:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-club/page/39#post-5615401

Looks like you have your answer, but it’s a hex that comes with the Cliffy ramp protector set that this machine had installed before. I’ll be reinstalling but waiting until I have the ramp ready.

The pictures on his instructions page show it as well:

http://www.passionforpinball.com/Funhouse/installation.htm

#111 7 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Looks like you have your answer, but it’s a hex that comes with the Cliffy ramp protector set that this machine had installed before. I’ll be reinstalling but waiting until I have the ramp ready.
The pictures on his instructions page show it as well:
http://www.passionforpinball.com/Funhouse/installation.htm

Thats perfect, thanks!

#112 7 months ago

Thanks taylorva who got the rails out super quick. I have them installed and got the second batch of some parts in too. Rails look great!!

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#113 7 months ago

Coils are ready! Assembly of mechanisms next.

Sizes of the two hex posts attached to each side of the rails.

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#114 7 months ago

Mechanisms are coming together. Have all but the trap door and shooter lane assemblies done (parts are being tumbled).

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#115 7 months ago

Lower flippers rebuilt WPC style. Adjusted and installed with new flipper bats.

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#116 7 months ago

Trap door assembly is assembled. I took a handful of pics showing the details of operation. Note the small coil that “releases” (drops the trap door) the larger coil via the clip. If yours isn’t working, the small coil, it’s clip, or the switch (not shown) are the issue.

The small coil has an adjustment via bending the long tab to either increase or decrease the gap. Changing will allow how strong the clip moves. That’s one issue. If you have one with issues, make sure that tab is present. These small style coil assemblies are common to have that tab broken.

The other adjustment is the clip. This one has been tweaked but was working perfectly so I’m rolling with it until I fully install and again when powered up. The clip needs to grab the larger coil’s armature assembly. Assuming this isn’t broken or worn, the clip will grab and hold it when the trap door is raised.

Lastly is the switch which isn’t shown here. The switch actuator tells the game if the trap door is up or down. If mechanically all is working, this is what needs adjusted.

It’s easy now with nothing attached to tweak than when in the game but it can be done. Hopefully the explanation makes sense along with the pics. Let me know if you need more info or a video of it working. I ordered the trap door playfield plastic with the recessed edge from Action Pinball so have some wait time before installing the assembly.
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#117 7 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Trap door assembly is assembled. I too a handful of pics showing the details of operation. Note the small coil that “releases” (drops the trap door) the larger coil via the clip. If yours isn’t working, the small coil, it’s clip, or the switch (not shown) are the issue.
The small coil has an adjustment via bending the long tab to either increase or decrease the gap. Changing will allow how strong the clip moves. That’s one issue. If you have one with issues, make sure that tab is present. These small style coil assemblies are common to have that tab broken.
The other adjustment is the clip. This one has been tweaked but was working perfectly so I’m rolling with it until I fully install and again when powered up. The clip needs to grab the larger coil’s armature assembly. Assuming this isn’t broken or worn, the clip will grab and hold it when the trap door is raised.
Lastly is the switch which isn’t shown here. The switch actuator tells the game if the trap door is up or down. If mechanically all is working, this is what needs adjusted.
It’s easy now with nothing attached to tweak than when in the game but it can be done. Hopefully the explanation makes sense along with the pics. Let me know if you need more info or a video of it working. I ordered the trap door playfield plastic with the recessed edge from Action Pinball so have some wait time before installing the assembly.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

On the flippers update, I noticed you left off the big yellow capacitors.

Is this by intent?
Do we not need them?

I absolutely believe in getting rid of the useless tapered return spring.

Im rebuilding the same way, but i was going to replace the capacitors on mine for anti-arc relief.

I think vids guide mentioned it wouldnt hurt...maybe?

#118 7 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

On the flippers update, I noticed you left off the big yellow capacitors.
Is this by intent?
Do we not need them?
I absolutely believe in getting rid of the useless tapered return spring.
Im rebuilding the same way, but i was going to replace the capacitors on mine for anti-arc relief.
I think vids guide mentioned it wouldnt hurt...maybe?

This will still need them. I haven’t put them on (will when soldering) but I will. Yes on the tapered spring. Conversion is so easy and plays better so it’s a no brainer to me.

#119 7 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

This will still need them. I haven’t put them on (will when soldering) bu my will. Yes on the tapered spring. Conversion is so easy and plays better so it’s a no brainer to me.

Absolutely !

One of the hardest adjustments is the lock disc.

Im going to calibrate it "live" on the rotissetie before installing my playfield.

I had quite a time fooling with it on my last funhouse...

Nor fun...

#120 7 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Lower flippers rebuilt WPC style. Adjusted and installed with new flipper bats.[quoted image][quoted image]

Can you tell me what's required to change these to WPC ? There's a listing on Marcos site for a rebuild kit# WFLTRON that replaces A-13524-8. Would I need anything else?

#121 7 months ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Can you tell me what's required to change these to WPC ? There's a listing on Marcos site for a rebuild kit# WFLTRON that replaces A-13524-8. Would I need anything else?

Its not that exotic.

Just use the later flipper pawls, plungers and coil stops.

Check the length of the plunger to see if its similar.

Coil stops, check them too.

And throw away the tapered coil teturn spring.

Add in the spring that goes from the pawl to the EOS bracket.

Thats it.

#122 7 months ago

I’ll add that Marco has been sending the pawls with the spring bracket. And this set I ordered for FH even came with the return springs (and the conical) so I had to do nothing. They flipper frames had the newer style brackets that have the WPC style return frames. If you have the older style you’ll need to drill a 1/16” hole for them.

Highly recommend and really easy.
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#123 7 months ago

Regarding plastics that are missing holes, these are the ones that I had to drill in the set I got for this. Some have extra holes in places but I have extra balloons and popcorn to fill these spaces.
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#124 7 months ago

Plastics are on. I have to solder in the new optos for Rudy so they’re not on permanently yet. I tweaked a few star posts to add some color from the plain old clears but easily changed if Gerry wants down the road. Any rubber rings for these star posts are now Titan whites.

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#125 7 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Plastics are on. I have to solder in the new optos for Rudy so they’re not on permanently yet. I tweaked a few star posts to add some color from the plain old clears but easily changed if Gerry wants down the road. Any rubber rings for these star posts are now Titan whites.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Really interesting on the extra holes in the plastics.

I have 2 sets of old NOS ones left.
At least 15 years old.

Ill do a comparison just to make sure they are correct.

Right now im molexing all the mechs and switch wires on mine.

While waiting for my new cab.

Flood damage is a bitch lol...

#126 7 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Plastics are on. I have to solder in the new optos for Rudy so they’re not on permanently yet. I tweaked a few star posts to add some color from the plain old clears but easily changed if Gerry wants down the road. Any rubber rings for these star posts are now Titan whites.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great with the colored posts

I am curious the clear plastic that goes behind the trap door, it looks like the new one covers the Hinge on the playfield. Is that correct? The one on mine began after the hinge..
Ty

#127 7 months ago
Quoted from topkat:

Looks great with the colored posts
I am curious the clear plastic that goes behind the trap door, it looks like the new one covers the Hinge on the playfield. Is that correct? The one on mine began after the hinge..
Ty

Its supposed to be machined out.

Ill have to look at mine.
I have a couple complete NOS doors and i just bought the plastic from action pinball.

#128 7 months ago

Yes the normal plastic behind the door just stops short creating a small ledge. The new one is machined down for the trap door to make a smooth transition. And the three holes to fasten down the playfield are countersunk which aren't on the regular set version. So I was able to get the other from Action Pinball. The normal one was included in the kit.

#129 7 months ago

When I did my pf swap I put two popcorn plastics over the popcorn bag plastic. It never made sense to have the balloon over the popcorn.

#130 7 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Lower flippers rebuilt WPC style. Adjusted and installed with new flipper bats.[quoted image][quoted image]

Are you upgrading the left upper flipper ?
Would it be the same as the left lower?

#131 7 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Lower flippers rebuilt WPC style. Adjusted and installed with new flipper bats.[quoted image][quoted image]

Don't you still need the capacitor to reduce sparks?

#132 7 months ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Are you upgrading the left upper flipper ?
Would it be the same as the left lower?

Yes and yes. Exactly the same. I’m waiting for the base plate so it’s not installed yet.

Quoted from WackyBrakke:

Don't you still need the capacitor to reduce sparks?

I do. Will add them at the end but for most it is easier to do while on the bench.

#133 7 months ago

Main ramp time. Two switches to replace but other than that it is pretty straightforward compared to the steps ramp. (Edit: picture shows the Steps ramp switches)

I drilled the hole after triple checking with new ramp and measuring the old playfield for the hex. Perfect location and drilled a bit bigger so I had some wiggle room if needed. I did have to shave down about a 1/4” off of the hex spacer but I wanted to use washer at the playfield so that was why so much. But it still needed a hair cut despite that.

Now that the main ramp is on, I installed the diverter mech and diverter so I could mark and drill for the diverter protectors.

Note: I usually save installing the ramp flap counter sunk screws until last...
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#134 7 months ago

Progress. Ramps are on with their new switches/optos. Eject disc came in and the main ramp is diverter are installed.
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#135 7 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Progress. Ramps are on with their new switches/optos. Eject disc came in and the main ramp is diverter are installed.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I like those coil wrappers, are they from PPS?
Also can you post a close up of your lamp shade ramp installation and hook up connector?

Mine is missing I have the all the parts to build it and Im waiting for the replacement from Cliffy.

#136 7 months ago
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#137 7 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Great Pics!

I found the connector thanks to your pics.

I see you opted for the 5smd tower, did it originally have a 12v #906 bulb?

I cant recall from my last FH, but I thought it was a regular #44.

Looks like Ill have a lampshade soon.

Thank you so much!

#138 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Great Pics!
I found the connector thanks to your pics.
I see you opted for the 5smd tower, did it originally have a 12v #906 bulb?
I cant recall from my last FH, but I thought it was a regular #44.
Looks like Ill have a lampshade soon.
Thank you so much!

Great! Glad to help out. It had a bobo LED in there. I haven’t tried the tower 6v in any FH yet but trying it out. The ones I’ve seen are 555 but 44 would be better if you can make it work.

Funny you said no lampshade because mine was missing too. I believe Kimball’s Pinballs made me on with correct connected and wiring so I just had to buy the aftermarket shades that were out at the time. Great guy to help me out.

#139 6 months ago

Drilled the playfield for the left entering steps ramp post following Cliffys direction from his site. No issues but again had to grind the post down a good 1/4” again as I opted for the washer at the playfield side. His site directions and full kit:

http://www.passionforpinball.com/Funhouse/installation.htm

http://www.passionforpinball.com/FH-Protectors.htm

Put a piece of Mylar down at the flap and have it secured down.

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#140 6 months ago

Assembled the mirror with non ghosting frosted LED’s and installed.

Here’s the areas I’ve installed the extra plastics. Have a few more that I’ll install when it’s fully complete.

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#141 6 months ago

Such great work

#142 6 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Assembled the mirror with non ghosting frosted LED’s and installed.
Here’s the areas I’ve installed the extra plastics. Have a few more that I’ll install when it’s fully complete.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

What color leds did you end up with on the mirror?

Im on the fence about the colored leds.

Im thinking of condoms over frosted sunlight to give is a softer glow?

Or maybe a patina like the old tempura painted lights that they used to do at carnivals.

#143 6 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Great! Glad to help out. It had a bobo LED in there. I haven’t tried the tower 6v in any FH yet but trying it out. The ones I’ve seen are 555 but 44 would be better if you can make it work.
Funny you said no lampshade because mine was missing too. I believe Kimball’s Pinballs made me on with correct connected and wiring so I just had to buy the aftermarket shades that were out at the time. Great guy to help me out.

I’ve been puzzling over the lampshade light. Is it a controlled light? The wiring doesn’t seem consistent with GI. I’m assuming from what you said suggests this is a 6V light. Haven’t been able to get mine to light.

#144 6 months ago
Quoted from schwism:

I’ve been puzzling over the lampshade light. Is it a controlled light? The wiring doesn’t seem consistent with GI. I’m assuming from what you said suggests this is a 6V light. Haven’t been able to get mine to light.

Do you have 6v at the connector? it should just be a part of the GI lighting I would think.

Trace the wires back to the source?

#145 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

What color leds did you end up with on the mirror?
Im on the fence about the colored leds.
Im thinking of condoms over frosted sunlight to give is a softer glow?
Or maybe a patina like the old tempura painted lights that they used to do at carnivals.

I put in some sunlights in there. (steps ramps) ricochet turned me onto them and they do a great job of giving the best of both cool and warm whites. May change them once testing but think they’ll work out well.

Mirror he wanted colored frosted so that’s what we have matched to the original condom colors.

#146 6 months ago

Very minor progress tonight. Have the pop bumper led rings installed with the new decals and the wireform clear ramp with posts and Titan rings.

Old rubber/plastic pics first.

184494CF-1B14-4B76-A849-E2B45FE3832B (resized).jpegF101FE4A-0BFE-4D68-8EB7-36314722CE58 (resized).jpeg3960A3DE-1FE6-48FD-8FC9-8E610DAAD528 (resized).jpegFE8FD186-9FA6-4C9F-A4AB-5FBD147BC068 (resized).jpegFEBE56A0-B3CE-424A-9958-9F0198CC0422 (resized).jpeg

#147 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Do you have 6v at the connector? it should just be a part of the GI lighting I would think.
Trace the wires back to the source?

No voltage at the connector. Tracing should be interesting since the two wires go into bundles and may or may not go to the head.

Like you I’d think it would be GI but the wiring is different. The top GI has a few yellow/yellow white wires that go to sockets. From those sockets it feeds other sockets with yellow wires. The plug in for the lampshade light has different colored wires.

#148 6 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Very minor progress tonight. Have the pop bumper led rings installed with the new decals and the wireform clear ramp with posts and Titan rings.
Old rubber/plastic pics first.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Who’s pop leds?

#149 6 months ago
Quoted from schwism:

No voltage at the connector. Tracing should be interesting since the two wires go into bundles and may or may not go to the head.
Like you I’d think it would be GI but the wiring is different. The top GI has a few yellow/yellow white wires that go to sockets. From those sockets it feeds other sockets with yellow wires. The plug in for the lampshade light has different colored wires.

Cut the nylon ties and trace the wire...

#150 6 months ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

Who’s pop leds?

Comet rings. Color matched to the cap colors. These are the ones you need to notch inside the cap for the leads and hot glue inside.

These:
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/pop-bumper-rings

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