(Topic ID: 266233)

Another Funhouse playfield swap #3

By dmacy

4 years ago


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  • 240 posts
  • 27 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by dmacy
  • Topic is favorited by 30 Pinsiders

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#51 4 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I used a chisel to get the disc off. I used a punch to put the new one on. I got a disc on the shaft from Marco later when I did my playfield replacement.

I did the same on my own just as you. Just the disc initially and did the whole piece later.

Quoted from topkat:

Were able to replace the moon shaped ball lock. I ordered the disc, but am not sure if it’s just a pin that needs to be removed from the stem? I saw yours looked like mine when you pulled..

I have the whole assembly with shaft coming to replace it.

#52 4 years ago

First order of parts came in. I had some white Titans for my machines that I used but still need quite a few more to finish. Started with the install of most of the ball guides after regraining with a 60 then 80 grit flap wheel.

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#53 4 years ago

What brand of super glue do you use on the areas after you dremel? Is it difficult to apply to such a small area? Any precautions taken so you dont shoot it onto the clear coat? That would scare me, but maybe I am overthinking it.

#54 4 years ago

I use what Ron includes in his kit. I use a small plastic pipette to carefully place where needed. Ron includes a syringe but I use pipettes that I have. Personal taste but both work fine. Also keep a paper towel in case I drip. Usually don’t but I’m used to it now.

#55 4 years ago

I love these threads - games done right.

#56 4 years ago

Another beautiful Job. The polished metal looks so good, as well as the installation!

#57 4 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Ha! I lied! Missed one in the right. There’s 4 all there. Just one on the left. But they’re all installed now.[quoted image][quoted image]

Wanted to check, when drilling into the holes for wire guides..we are just opening a few mm’s for protecting the clear? The hole should be pre drilled deep enough that I don’t need go the entire length for the guide to fit. is that correct?
Ty

#58 4 years ago
Quoted from topkat:

Wanted to check, when drilling into the holes for wire guides..we are just opening a few mm’s for protecting the clear? The hole should be pre drilled deep enough that I don’t need go the entire length for the guide to fit. is that correct?
Ty

If you need to, yes than open it up. I really recommend the hand countersink tool so you can give it some angle and add Ron’s clear to protect. And yes, just drill enough to get maybe 1/2 through the playfield. You still want the wire guides to have some bite so they stay solid in the wood.

#59 4 years ago
Quoted from kruzman:

Another beautiful Job. The polished metal looks so good, as well as the installation!

Thanks brother! Your kit is a lifesaver.

#60 4 years ago

Had to spend some time grilling for the very hungry neighbor-wife. She eats a lot. So had a few new parts to rebuild the shooter rods so it will play as nice as it will look.

New springs, sleeves and tips.

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#61 3 years ago

Mechanisms (all but flippers) dissembled part 1. There were a few common parts that I’m replacing but nothing unusual. Pop bumpers are getting all new everything but the brackets.

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#62 3 years ago

Mechanisms (all but flippers) dissembled part 2. Nite the pivot coming apart.

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#63 3 years ago

Mechanisms (all but flippers) dissembled part 3.

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#64 3 years ago

Always my favorite part of a restoration. I love the satisfaction of cleaning, polishing and rebuilding all the mechs. Makes game play like it did when it rolled off the line at Williams.

#65 3 years ago

Main ramp tear down.

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#66 3 years ago

Steps ramp tear down.

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#67 3 years ago

Shooter ramp getting its ramp flap removed. Will be making a new one. Had to fix the gouged lane guide.

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#68 3 years ago

Ramps are here so I fitted the subway. Perfect fit for ramps but the playfield has two holes that needed new holes. Dimples were off on one pretty far but normal stuff. First two pics showing the ones that are off.

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#69 3 years ago

Had some questions asking about Rudy. I wasn’t originally planning to tear it apart but after looking at it, it needed cleaning. I ordered a few parts last night for it so here’s some pics of tear down.

Rudy’s jaw motor:

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#70 3 years ago

Rudy’s head part #1:

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#71 3 years ago

Rudy’s head part #2:

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#72 3 years ago

Rudy’s head part #3:

13AC3C8F-4B01-4969-8C10-5EE3EAFA6527 (resized).jpeg13AC3C8F-4B01-4969-8C10-5EE3EAFA6527 (resized).jpegE0F59605-368B-498D-8B37-42CAB4B9AA8F (resized).jpegE0F59605-368B-498D-8B37-42CAB4B9AA8F (resized).jpeg2278BD7C-BF01-40E6-87B7-E9FCA037FCB4 (resized).jpeg2278BD7C-BF01-40E6-87B7-E9FCA037FCB4 (resized).jpeg1EF26FEB-217B-4F98-856A-7E1D70617567 (resized).jpeg1EF26FEB-217B-4F98-856A-7E1D70617567 (resized).jpegCFACA330-A210-49E5-87A1-E83119CBBA6D (resized).jpegCFACA330-A210-49E5-87A1-E83119CBBA6D (resized).jpeg22101075-571C-4A4F-92FD-AAE7B35745B7 (resized).jpeg22101075-571C-4A4F-92FD-AAE7B35745B7 (resized).jpeg61B44911-0CCC-4E9F-AEA2-595979CF8713 (resized).jpeg61B44911-0CCC-4E9F-AEA2-595979CF8713 (resized).jpeg
#73 3 years ago

Here’s the tall metal post sizes.

077E7074-3FC9-4432-81F7-9CD06DABBA3C (resized).jpeg077E7074-3FC9-4432-81F7-9CD06DABBA3C (resized).jpeg12944D70-C294-461C-893E-A051E38982B2 (resized).jpeg12944D70-C294-461C-893E-A051E38982B2 (resized).jpegBAE4872A-6371-4BD2-9464-C7EA174C8EBA (resized).jpegBAE4872A-6371-4BD2-9464-C7EA174C8EBA (resized).jpeg
#74 3 years ago

Couple holes need drilled which was common in these earlier versions. One by steps ramp support that is 2.5” long. They dimpled but not drilled through. No big deal.

The other is for the left under apron light to pass the wires through. Took a picture showing the original.

856EE7F0-1AEF-4786-9196-DF9596B72CE8 (resized).jpeg856EE7F0-1AEF-4786-9196-DF9596B72CE8 (resized).jpeg3EF7D62C-A6CF-411B-B388-7DB3B7C42555 (resized).jpeg3EF7D62C-A6CF-411B-B388-7DB3B7C42555 (resized).jpegEDA93901-7486-4EC4-8E77-C988E4B4C0A1 (resized).jpegEDA93901-7486-4EC4-8E77-C988E4B4C0A1 (resized).jpegCF54009C-5CE2-435F-959C-D423A976A9DD (resized).jpegCF54009C-5CE2-435F-959C-D423A976A9DD (resized).jpeg
#75 3 years ago

Flipper lanes: All is new but they bells (bottom parts that are crimped/riveted on) and the black plastic spacers. They can be drilled out carefully and will hold in place once aces are tightened.

Right side:

2F150A90-E541-48EA-9A25-E8F1B0DAD078 (resized).jpeg2F150A90-E541-48EA-9A25-E8F1B0DAD078 (resized).jpegD7986A76-4614-43E5-A67C-972027017A18 (resized).jpegD7986A76-4614-43E5-A67C-972027017A18 (resized).jpeg7EBF522F-C5DB-4128-9BC8-B33BE2A7C3CB (resized).jpeg7EBF522F-C5DB-4128-9BC8-B33BE2A7C3CB (resized).jpegC2A46EF6-6ADA-45A3-BFE9-ED705F526EE3 (resized).jpegC2A46EF6-6ADA-45A3-BFE9-ED705F526EE3 (resized).jpeg
#76 3 years ago

Left flipper lane uses the small washer, tubing and special screw. I keep these new screws now as they’re often stripped. Washer and tubing look good after tumbling.

You’ll need to prep the hole as usual.

7CD4DE47-8607-4615-ADBC-D9C28C36A9C1 (resized).jpeg7CD4DE47-8607-4615-ADBC-D9C28C36A9C1 (resized).jpeg7B512B64-3909-4CCE-BD1A-8B88CA3493EB (resized).jpeg7B512B64-3909-4CCE-BD1A-8B88CA3493EB (resized).jpeg0E18047C-3DE8-4D0A-9E09-03ED0D0F429C (resized).jpeg0E18047C-3DE8-4D0A-9E09-03ED0D0F429C (resized).jpeg12970BCA-B275-42BB-A353-7F42F7C3EBE3 (resized).jpeg12970BCA-B275-42BB-A353-7F42F7C3EBE3 (resized).jpeg52CBBB78-2B49-45E9-897C-B8B787EBAAB5 (resized).jpeg52CBBB78-2B49-45E9-897C-B8B787EBAAB5 (resized).jpegADCCF180-EF9B-4499-9E00-A37D824D7C8F (resized).jpegADCCF180-EF9B-4499-9E00-A37D824D7C8F (resized).jpegAAD42E01-44DD-46B0-AF8D-ADE6CEA92AD6 (resized).jpegAAD42E01-44DD-46B0-AF8D-ADE6CEA92AD6 (resized).jpegFE597B15-E6A9-4ED4-BE88-F909EDB7D567 (resized).jpegFE597B15-E6A9-4ED4-BE88-F909EDB7D567 (resized).jpeg6F72406A-1098-4D6B-A024-4580E7B2CFAD (resized).jpeg6F72406A-1098-4D6B-A024-4580E7B2CFAD (resized).jpegF3C8C91B-0FF8-42AF-8D53-DC52C434027C (resized).jpegF3C8C91B-0FF8-42AF-8D53-DC52C434027C (resized).jpegA28B015D-30EE-4F67-AB10-080B9CEAE5F7 (resized).jpegA28B015D-30EE-4F67-AB10-080B9CEAE5F7 (resized).jpeg29C2CB38-E4A2-4CF9-8CAB-CAA32201962C (resized).jpeg29C2CB38-E4A2-4CF9-8CAB-CAA32201962C (resized).jpeg985D1FCC-800E-468D-84A8-2C5BE811B466 (resized).jpeg985D1FCC-800E-468D-84A8-2C5BE811B466 (resized).jpegF0D8DC61-E428-44B6-8A66-DD151F35B0D7 (resized).jpegF0D8DC61-E428-44B6-8A66-DD151F35B0D7 (resized).jpeg
#77 3 years ago

Thank you for the great pics!

#78 3 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Couple holes need drilled which was common in these earlier versions. One by steps ramp support that is 2.5” long. They dimpled but not drilled through. No big deal.
The other is for the left under apron light to pass the wires through. Took a picture showing the original.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you for posting that. I redrilled that ramp support and then was worried it was a mistake. For that support post I ran into issue with the three holes so close underneath( ramp post and bam guide holes ) I can’t get bolts on.
Did you have any issues ?

#79 3 years ago

all your post and metal look so nice......like you hand polished each piece

#80 3 years ago
Quoted from topkat:

Thank you for posting that. I redrilled that ramp support and then was worried it was a mistake. For that support post I ran into issue with the three holes so close underneath( ramp post and bam guide holes ) I can’t get bolts on.
Did you have any issues ?

They are close. No issues however. I usually put the nuts on with my smaller cordless with a thin walled deep socket.

#81 3 years ago

Looking Awesome Dave! Can't wait to be able to set the high score on this game when Gerry gets it back LOL!

#82 3 years ago
Quoted from cyroute:

Looking Awesome Dave! Can't wait to be able to set the high score on this game when Gerry gets it back LOL!

You got your own Funhouse, not letting you near mine lol
Great work Dave, getting excited to get it back in the line up right next to Bad Cats

#83 3 years ago

Flipper assemblies are torn down. They’re ready for a rebuild. They’ll get converted to WPC style. I’ll have to pick up at least one baseplate with broken and stripped screws.

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#84 3 years ago

Looking great, shame that the Mirco left 2 out lanes, the holes are not cut in the middle
Will look awesome when completed, great game. wish I had kept mine.

#85 3 years ago

Things missed when dirty. I have a new one so the bent one is trashed.

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#86 3 years ago

More riveting....

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#87 3 years ago

Great thread. Thanks for documenting the process for all of us.

I’m about ready to start a topside teardown on mine and had a question about the order of things. Looks like I start by removing the piece with the upside down star posts, then the Steps ramp on the left. Habitrails are next, then the right ramp. Is that correct?

After that it looks straightforward but want to make sure about the ramps.

#88 3 years ago

I have that same rivet press it’s a great tool. I’m curious do you have the longer dies also? I don’t and find it very hard to get into tight spaces. Also, I am curious if you have a recommendation for a soldering station or wand(reasonably priced) that is worthy of the type of restorations you do? I am starting to do swaps and find I would probably use the wand more at this point .

#89 3 years ago
Quoted from schwism:

Great thread. Thanks for documenting the process for all of us.
I’m about ready to start a topside teardown on mine and had a question about the order of things. Looks like I start by removing the piece with the upside down star posts, then the Steps ramp on the left. Habitrails are next, then the right ramp. Is that correct?
After that it looks straightforward but want to make sure about the ramps.

Correct on those steps to remove. It’s pretty easy tear down on this title and you can’t really do one step (no pun intended) without the other. Meaning less confusing as there’s not ramps going all over the place.

Quoted from Squeakman:

I have that same rivet press it’s a great tool. I’m curious do you have the longer dies also? I don’t and find it very hard to get into tight spaces. Also, I am curious if you have a recommendation for a soldering station or wand(reasonably priced) that is worthy of the type of restorations you do? I am starting to do swaps and find I would probably use the wand more at this point .

Yes! It is really good. Having that same issue as you, I got the long ones. Highly recommend. There’s only been a few times where I couldn’t do something.

I’m probably a bar person to answer this question. I use a Weller WES51 at a recommendation from both a family member and friend when entering the hobby. My only wand usage was a craftsman one I bought in high school. It sucked then and sucks now. I used it a few times to attach, not solder lol for a few repairs early on and that was enough.

It’s a pain to lug around but it’s really all I know to use now.

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#90 3 years ago

Thanks, dmacy. I’d rather check up front instead of finding out the hard way.

Curious about the rivet press. What kind is it? Think I may bite the bullet and get one for these kinds of projects.

#91 3 years ago

Now I’m curious if you got the extended dies from pinball resource or somewhere else? I just did a huge refresh on my TZ and those metal ramps with the metal sides were near impossible to river with the normal length dies.

#92 3 years ago
Quoted from schwism:

Thanks, dmacy. I’d rather check up front instead of finding out the hard way.
Curious about the rivet press. What kind is it? Think I may bite the bullet and get one for these kinds of projects.

I have the kit and bought the press from HF. Machinist friend set it up for me. You can have them do the whole set up for you. Here at Pinrestore: https://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

Quoted from Squeakman:

Now I’m curious if you got the extended dies from pinball resource or somewhere else? I just did a huge refresh on my TZ and those metal ramps with the metal sides were near impossible to river with the normal length dies.

Also from Pinrestore. Get both long ones as you mentioned you'll use both: https://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

#93 3 years ago

Whoops I meant pin restore. Lol I bought mine at harbor freight and the kit from pin restore also.

#94 3 years ago

Yes, I think I’ll go the HF/pin restore as well.

Another question. I was looking at how the diverter is attached and found this.

This looks weird to me. Should it be this way? It looks like the hole in the shaft could have a hex nut in it. Manual is silent on this.

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#95 3 years ago

Yikes. That should be a small hex set screw. That is a hack.

#96 3 years ago

Thanks for confirming that. I’ve found a number of similar things and plan to put them right as I go. Enjoying the challenge.

#97 3 years ago

Thanks Op for a great thread. I was wondering if the plastics you are using are NOS or repro. I noticed they had the -SP suffix like originals at the end of the part number. If they are repros would you mind revealing where you sourced them? Thanks.

#98 3 years ago
Quoted from ABT12:

Thanks Op for a great thread. I was wondering if the plastics you are using are NOS or repro. I noticed they had the -SP suffix like originals at the end of the part number. If they are repros would you mind revealing where you sourced them? Thanks.

Repros I’m assuming. They came from Planetary.

#100 3 years ago

Still drillin’ and rivetin’....

The Titan_Pinball rings showed and LED’s.

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