So I documented a Flash Gordon restore here on pinside sometime back that I no longer have. I love Flash Gordon so recently I acquired another FG and decided to restore it. This time I decided to take a different approach. I absolutely love the theme, the art and the colors. That said, I hated the cabinet design. I reached out to Jeff at pinballpimp to see if he could design some custom stencils for me. After a chat by phone I detailed what I wanted. A couple email revisions later I had the cabinet design I wanted. I may be partial but I think Jeff hit it out of the park. For reference here is the traditional design from the factory:

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...And here is what I had Jeff come up with:

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I also have side rails out being mocked-up laser cut with a custom design. As soon as I get them back (any day now so I'm told) I'll post them here. I chromed everything the last time. This time I'm going floss black. I'll be back to update things once I start prepping the cab to paint.

I spoke to Jeff about it. For now, it's a one off. If there's demand (reception here has been luke warm so who knows); it's something he may consider. Wouldn't hurt my feeling to have a one of a kind Flash Gordon.

Thanks guys. I appreciate it. With the black rails, legs and coin door, it will balance all the red. I'm very excited. I have a cpr gold playfield in transit as I type this.

In the mean time, the cabinet is stripped and getting ready to do some repairs, prep and sanding.

Not too bad: IMG_0158 (resized).JPGIMG_0159 (resized).JPGIMG_0160 (resized).JPG

Until you look at the underside. Oops. That's was a surprise. IMG_0162 (resized).JPGIMG_0161 (resized).JPG

So I picked up another empty cab only to find it was damaged by termites. I tore it apart and salvage what I need. Fwiw, the termites have long since vacated. IMG_0163 (resized).JPG

I would love to be able to buy a new empty cab but I will make it look new again either way.

Yes sir. It was perfect timing.

On to the cab. I started trying to repair the hole in the bottom. It's round a quarter sized hole on either side of the vent hole. I would rather not pull the cab apart to put in a new panel so I'll try this first. Like my last FG restore I plan on sanding the bottom which will render it smooth versus the texture but it will be clean. The small gaps at the patched areas will be filled with a color matched filler then the whole bottom sealed. Didn't turn out too bad and it is the bottom so I'll hold judgement for now.

I cut out the frayed edges and attached some blocking to support the patches. IMG_0178 (resized).JPGIMG_0161 (resized).JPG

Pieces in place. I lightly sanded over the patches (glue still drying) to see how well it was going to blend. IMG_0179 (resized).JPG

Glueing the bottom edge that is always split on these games. Sanding has also started. IMG_0180 (resized).JPG

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You would have to move both cross braces and even then it wouldn't work. The metal transformer tray spans those two cross braces. I appreciate the suggestion though.

So I continue working on the patches after the glue set over night. Sanded flat and flush.
Next a little cheat to deal with the small gap on the second plug. Flood the joint with glue. Let it settle and then dump some of the sanding dust in the crack. Work it into place and let it dry. Sand smooth after. The bottom will be overglazed to get everything a uniform color and further mask the edges IMG_0184 (resized).JPGIMG_0185 (resized).JPG
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Replacing the bottom trim that's always broken. I scavenged the lip from the other cabinet since it's already the right thickness and profile. IMG_0190 (resized).JPGIMG_0189 (resized).JPGIMG_0188 (resized).JPGIMG_0186 (resized).JPGIMG_0187 (resized).JPG

Now that the glue is dry enough, time to reshape the vent hole.

Lay out what has to be removed
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And after. Matches pretty close to the other hole now. IMG_0194 (resized).JPG

Comparison of before and after:

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Yeah that's what I did. Then I put the new strip in to replace the broken portion and squeezed everything together. Good as new when done.

I originally tried to wafer a thin piece to set on the damage but it was going to show and the thickness of the recess was too irregular from the damaged areas. I cut the squares as small as I could yet still remove the damaged surfaces. The squares are friction fit with glue as well as a piece of blocking you can see through the vent hole. I have the friction/glue fit so tight, I really don't need the blocking now but I can't get to it to remove it. The patches aren't going anywhere now.

Edit: just to follow up. I found a piece of damage I cut out. You can see where I tried to "tray" it out to set a patch on. It didn't work so you can see how I cut the damage out to get to good wood. image (resized).jpg

Rear done. It's a touch wavy due to the back panel not splitting evenly. Still have some bonds filling to do but structurally it's repaired. Once it's sanded and filled it will look near factory IMG_0196 (resized).JPG

More bottom repairs using scavenged trim from the donor cab.,IMG_0201 (resized).JPGIMG_0200 (resized).JPGIMG_0198 (resized).JPG

Bottom sealed. Now I can see how much color difference there is between the patches and the rest of the bottom panel. Once it's dry I can start playing with on over glaze to get it one uniform color. IMG_0221 (resized).JPG

And a before shot for reference:
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Making progress. Barely noticeable. I could spend another 4hrs and only improve it a percent or two. Not worth it imo. IMG_0227 (resized).JPGIMG_0228 (resized).JPG

Now that the bottom is done and dry, I can flip it over and start on the other side. First up if to glue, brad and clamp the head pedestal. These are always cracked and separated. IMG_0231 (resized).JPG

Then on to the interior sanding.
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Inside bottom done, ready to seal.

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Lots of sanding, filling, sanding, filling.

While that goes on, a little sneak peak...

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Come again?

Oh, lol. I should have recognized what he was alluding to. Thanks.

So I got my custom cut rails back finally. I think they look awesome. They will be powder coated gloss black. The pictures show it loosely sitting on a side panel of the donor parts cab.

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Thanks for the nice comments. I got them done at a local shop. Not cheap at all though.

I hope to have the cabinet primed and base coated this weekend. I'm going strictly automotive finishes on this one with an auto clear top coat.

The new cpr playfield is out to hsa for touch-ups and new clear. Here's a picture before I sent it out to hsa. IMG_0197 (resized).JPG

Filling glaze to fill all the small open grain. " Sanded to remove all the excess laying on the hard grain. You can see here the small specs of red left behind. That's the glaze filling the small open grain pores. [att=3445299,821460 caption="

Sanded to remove all the excess laying on the hard grain. You can see here the small specs of red left behind. That's the glaze filling the small open grain pores. IMG_0332 (resized).JPG

Baby butt smooth now.

Slight detour today from cabinet work. I have been lusting after a powder coat oven big enough to accommodate rails and legs so I could do all my powder in house. Well, the right deal came my way and I picked up a nice 3'x3'x6' two burner oven with digital controls, circulating fan and light. Very excited to get it wired up. Next up is my gema pro style powder coating system. IMG_0335 (resized).JPGIMG_0334 (resized).JPG

Got my zombi yeti stern stickers in the mail today so I thought I would throw one on the oven for good measure. IMG_0337 (resized).JPG

Almost go time. Still some last minute sanding but everything is masked off and ready to go. Custom stencils will be here tomorrow. Thanks again PinballPimp (Jeff).IMG_0388 (resized).JPG

That's awesome Jeff. Thanks for posting it.

This thread keeps taking detours. So I came across a smoking deal today on a 80 gallon single stage 240v compressor and a 48" blast cabinet. It's huge compared to my little 32" cabinet I have now. The benefit is I can now blast siderails (by the skin of my teeth) as well as it's taller so I don't have to hunch over. It also has a self contained vacuum system versus my old one where I had to hook up a shop vac to it. I'm going to be a powder coating fool soon. IMG_0398 (resized).JPGIMG_0397 (resized).JPG

Old cabinet for comparison. IMG_0399 (resized).JPG

Got the primer on. This new primer is nice, covers great but shows every damn defect which is good and bad. Back to filling and sanding. IMG_0406 (resized).JPGIMG_0407 (resized).JPG

As with a lot of older games, the plywood veneer in some places has planked, or split. I skimmed the head sides with bondo completely, sanded smooth and filled again with glazing filler and sanded to a baby butt smooth finish with 220. Even with all that, when the epoxy hi-build primer hit the grain of the wood, the solvents in the primer opened up the grain again, though nowhere near as severe as when I started. Here is the grain opened up after priming:
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So one more round of glaze filling. You can see the red glaze filling in the wood grain depressions.

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After, it will be sanded and one final shot of primer applied.

Thank you. The hope is to get it all painted over the long holiday break. Never works out that way but I'm going to try. Right now I'm arguing with the electrician trying to get my new oven and compressor hooked up.

I can't say enough about how nice this two part hi-build epoxy auto primer is. It sands and powders up like a dream. It feels like a sheet of glass.

Sanded. One more shot of primer, sand and then on to color. IMG_0412 (resized).JPG

Got two important packages today. My stencils from Jeff PinballPimp and the ever so important replacement strobe board. IMG_0413 (resized).JPG

So I have been involved in commercial painting for 25 years and seen many an expensive coating. Nothing could prepare me for what automotive coatings go for. The receipt total is with a very hefty discount my commercial rep got me on the auto side. This doesn't include the total for the primer and clear I already purchased. Hopefully it's worth it. It's the first time I have sent full auto finishes in leu of commercial paint finishes. IMG_0415 (resized).JPGIMG_0414 (resized).JPG

I think it should be ok. Auto paints are thin film by nature so they're less prone to build up over the edge of the stencil and peel when the stencil is removed like heavier bodied architectural coatings. Time will tell.

I am getting side tracked already. My electrician wants to come tomorrow at 8am instead of Saturday. So instead of working on the cab, I have to move shit so the electrician can work.

I'm slowly working towards paint. Sanding the hi-build primer smooth highlights all the depressions and imperfections. More to fill. Getting closer.
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And sanded. The spots of red are what's left behind filling the depressions and irregularities of the wood grain veneer making the surface complete flat and smooth. Everything is 99% smooth now. IMG_0418 (resized).JPG

For comparison, here is an area that will be covered by the rails. You can see the irregularities in the surface. It's an extreme closeup to show what I'm dealing with. In actuality, it "feels" smooth to the touch but would show horrible when any type of material with a sheen was applied over it. Some of it could be sanded down but then you end up sanding through the bulk of the surrounding primer on the surfaces that are already higher than the depressionsIMG_0419 (resized).JPG

Electric going in for the oven and compressor. Cabinet on hold for today I think. IMG_0421 (resized).JPG

Left side filled. IMG_0422 (resized).JPG

Primer reshot. Like glass. Unbelievable.
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Once it cures I'll scuff sand with 600 grit and then FINALLY color.

Finally color. Base coat applied. Silky smooth. Nice reflection even though base coat dries to a matte finish. Almost time for stencils. IMG_0447 (resized).JPGIMG_0444 (resized).JPGIMG_0445 (resized).JPGIMG_0446 (resized).JPGIMG_0448 (resized).JPG

Stencils being applied. Side bar. The quality of the stencils from pinball pimp are out of this world. IMG_0453 (resized).JPGIMG_0449 (resized).JPGIMG_0451 (resized).JPGIMG_0450 (resized).JPGIMG_0452 (resized).JPG

Paint being applied.
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And masking removed.
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Still have black and white to lay in tomorrow.

Quick takeaway. The solvent in automotive products are hot. To answer the previous question, it works but it severely softened the stencil to the point it was almost an issue. Caused a couple fuzzy edged letters but I believe the black key lines will hide it.

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The red was made in the ultra 7000 line.
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I'll add another thought on using automotive paint. Aside from the cost, the rework time is phenomenal. As I mentioned, I have been around commercial paint for 25 years. I have never used auto paints before. I'm astounded at how quickly everything dries and how soon you can move on to the next activity. The paint is literally dry to the touch in 10 minutes and can be taped on in 20. With commercial/industrial paints (even catalyzed paints) you were basically stuck to painting once a day. The paints just take so long to cure out. You end up marring the surface. With auto paints, I sprayed the red and an hour later I was completely masking the whole side with the stencil. No lifting, peeling or abrasions. I was able to do 2 days of painting activities in one. I'm sold.

Couple more pics because I'm so happy with the results. So smooth. IMG_0464 (resized).JPGIMG_0466 (resized).JPG

Are reflection of my hand in the cabinet. Keep in mind, this is without the clear coat top coat.
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Back at it early in the morning. White is up next.

Masking off.
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Little side note. I masked over the registration marks so no overspray got to the cab. I used masking paper over the mark with tape around the perimeter so when I pull the stencil off, it doesn't pull my registration with it.
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Couple small goofs and a tiny bit of blow through on one spot but all in all it looks fantastic. The lightning bolts line up perfectly at the corners. This is mainly due to the great stencils and registration system. Kudos to Jeff @pinballpimp. On to black inlay. IMG_0480 (resized).JPG IMG_0483 (resized).JPGIMG_0481 (resized).JPG

Not sure what you're asking.

Thank you

All colors applied. Looks phenomenal imho. Clear coat up next.

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Loose mockup with the rail. It will be gloss black. IMG_0485 (resized).JPG

Thank you.

And the clear coat is done. Please ignore my mess of a work area. I can start cleaning up now. IMG_0489 (resized).JPGIMG_0491 (resized).JPGIMG_0490 (resized).JPGIMG_0492 (resized).JPGIMG_0493 (resized).JPG
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Thanks for the kind words everyone.

Oh. Well yes there is dust. I cover everything of importance. One of the main reasons I didn't paint my garage walls. With hvlp's versus rattle cans, the overspray on hvlp is very dry because the paint is so finely atomized. Whereas rattle can overspray is more wet and sticks to things easier. Hvlp overspray dust for the most part is easily swept up.

Thanks for saying so.

And cabinet in my basement to continue the restoration. IMG_0523 (resized).JPGIMG_0524 (resized).JPG

Santa came early. Got my used older version gema powder coating equipment and 10 pounds of high gloss mirror black power. Now if I can get my oven sorted out and my compressor finished being installed I can start getting some rails and legs powder coated. Christmas vacation can't come soon enough. IMG_0553 (resized).JPGIMG_0554 (resized).JPGIMG_0552 (resized).JPG

So nothing done on the game this weekend but I did make progress. Got my oven sorted out and got my compressor, moisture/filter traps installed so I can get my powder coating equipment going. Still have to plumb my blast cabinet to a moisture trap and regulator. I'm short two fittings. Damn. IMG_0574 (resized).JPGIMG_0571 (resized).JPGIMG_0572 (resized).JPGIMG_0573 (resized).JPG

Hopefully my last housekeeping post, then on to powder coating the cabinet hardware. The last (hopefully) piece to the puzzle was to install a new burner in my powder oven. IMG_0583 (resized).JPG. Both are firing as they are supposed to now. I also got word that my playfield is done being touched-up and recleared. Things are moving but not a lot to show for it at the moment.

That's the end game.

So I lied. Still doing some setup. Built a custom wall mount for my powder coating control box. This evening/tomorrow I'll run some test pieces of parts. IMG_0595 (resized).JPG

So I got up and running. Very good (not perfect but I'm picky) results for my first try. Slight bit of orange peal. This gema pro system goes on like a dream and as a result, I applied it too heavy leading to some orange peal. After fighting a cheaper harbor freight gun where I had to overcompensate to get coverage, I didn't realize how nice the gema lays it down. Live and learn. It still looks fantastic imo. IMG_0605 (resized).JPGIMG_0606 (resized).JPGIMG_0604 (resized).JPGIMG_0598 (resized).JPGIMG_0599 (resized).JPG. The rails are just loose sitting on the cabinet. The red showing through emperor Ming is much more pronounced when its tight to the cabinet body.

Neck grill done and I'm done for the night. Tomorrow I hope to get the other rail, legs and leg brackets done. Maybe the lock down bar too. IMG_0596 (resized).JPGIMG_0597 (resized).JPG

Thank you.

I should have been a plumber with the amount of black pipe I have laid out and put together.

So I had a black pipe playfield rotisserie I retired sometime back. IMG_0607 (resized).JPG

I needed a rack to powder coat my items and hang them in the oven. I repurposed it and made a tidy rack. I need to add some casters and do a couple tweaks but not bad for repurposing and 20 minutes of my time. I have a leg hanging that needs to be blasted still for mockup purposes IMG_0610 (resized).JPGIMG_0608 (resized).JPG

Link doesn't take me anywhere.

Not a ton to update. I added steel casters to my powder rack so I can roll it into my oven. I'm off the next two weeks so hopefully I'll pick up some speed. The playfield is supposed to be back from hsa Thursday too.

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Shiny. Turned out well imho. Very happy with the results. Still getting the hang of it. Hopefully I'll get to where there is zero orange peel. Right now there is a very slight peel. IMG_0638 (resized).JPGIMG_0639 (resized).JPG

Ha. No way. As picky as I am I'd never get any done.

The other rail completed. Now we're cooking with oil. Beautiful high gloss. Smooth like a mirror. IMG_0640 (resized).JPGIMG_0642 (resized).JPG

Loosely in place with the lockdown bar.
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That's correct. Forklift with the extended top plate. It's awesome for working on pins. I can raise and lower it to any height I want.

More powder coating pics. Starting the coin door. Looks great. So nice to have a big oven. IMG_0684 (resized).JPGIMG_0685 (resized).JPGIMG_0683 (resized).JPGIMG_0657 (resized).JPG

If you insist. Seriously excited to get it. Morso than when I first got a MB or an original MM. love early Bally's.

Time for the coin door guts. Going to powder coat what I can. Moving items that are riveted together just cleaned. Most of these are good. A few could stand to be plated but I'm not going that crazy.

Before:
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After ultra sonic cleaning. Pile of parts cleaned and ready for blasting and coating.
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Coin door parts powder coated. Now to reassemble. IMG_0748 (resized).JPGIMG_0747 (resized).JPG

Doubtful it will. Things that are tight I'm careful with. As for screw holes, I have silicone plugs ordered but for now I'm pluggging screw holes with heat resistant tape. I roll it into a pointed cone and fill the hole that way.

Coin door going back together. I still need to clean/install the harness. Also, I have new pricing inserts (I put the old in to get a feel) on order. Looks sweet. IMG_0752 (resized).JPGIMG_0754 (resized).JPGIMG_0753 (resized).JPGIMG_0755 (resized).JPG

And loosely held in place to see how it's going to look installed. We have a winner. IMG_0756 (resized).JPG

I was going to go red for those, the start and eject buttons for contrast but I honestly was too lazy to clean the equipment out for those few pieces.

That's my goal. My fear was raw silver would have clashed mightily considering every single metal item is black.

Thank you for the compliment; it means a lot coming from your peers. HEP is in another league though. He does things I can't do or have the time/patience to attemp. Truely beautiful work. This is a hobby for me and it's fun to see how far I can push myself to do quality work.

Lots and lots of screws, bolts, washers and nuts. PITA! IMG_0786 (resized).JPG

The powder train keeps going.

Lockdown receiver before:
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And after:
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Pile of parts. The head hinges turned out fantastic. IMG_0790 (resized).JPG

Coin door in place. IMG_0793 (resized).JPGIMG_0791 (resized).JPG

Need help from early Bally experts. My game came with 3 matching legs and one newer wpc leg. I thought I ordered the correct one from pbr but they don't match. Are my 3 right for the game (I believe so). If not is the one I bought (chrome in the picture) correct. If it isn't where can I get a 4th matching one? Thanks IMG_0795 (resized).JPGIMG_0796 (resized).JPG

That's what I thought.

Based on pbr's chart I thought I ordered the correct one but the one I got has that raised rib on the outside angle. Not sure where to source them.

Yeah. I'm stumped. Hopefully someone out there can point me to source of one to replace my missing one.

True. Maybe someone locally reading this has one and could help a guy out. I'm also in need of the outer metal shooter housing with the Bally logo script. Mine is bent and one of the threaded studs on the backside is cracked.

Ground braid installed.

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Playfield just came back from hsa IMG_0802 (resized).JPG

LOL.
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Lockbar receiver in place.
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Buffing compound. They're translucent so you can see it. The opaque ones are the same. They just need cleaned out. Post 56 show the insert before it went out to hsa.

No doubt. Quick wipe cleans it up. IMG_0822 (resized).JPG

I know it's overboard, but the cabinet looks so nice with the hardware powdercoated black to match the part its securing. IMG_0836 (resized).JPGIMG_0838 (resized).JPGIMG_0839 (resized).JPG

The metal cabinet glides are usually pretty mangled up on these games. Thankfully all but one were in good shape. I beat this one back to pretty good shape.
Before: IMG_0819 (resized).JPG

After shaping:
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And powder coated:
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Ding ding ding.

Speaking of powder coating interfering with heat, I'm seriously comptemplating powdering this.

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My main concern isn't grounding. I plan to mask where the pcb brackets mount and where ground straps interface. My concern is stapling it in back in and cracking the finished powder.

Test piece (corner) of the grounding tin going in now. .IMG_0841 (resized).JPG

All systems go. Bent and flexed. No issues.

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On to the main course...
IMG_0843 (resized).JPG. The tin wanted to curl up after it was blasted. Hopefully it doesn't crack after it cures and I cut it loose.

Baked:
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And tacked into place. Worked perfectly. IMG_0845 (resized).JPG

Never.

The first step to recovery is admitting a problem. I'm not there yet.

The dog kept shaking the powder off...

Repro backbox cards done and everything stapled and pcb brackets installed. Head back in place. Still need to install the boards. The two silver screws are temporary. IMG_0855 (resized).JPGIMG_0856 (resized).JPGIMG_0857 (resized).JPG

So I got distracted by this fun game which is my next restore. IMG_0887 (resized).JPG

But I'm back at it. Light panel stripped and prepped. I'll be painting it tomorrow.
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Also more powder. Legs turned out fabulous.

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