skins - those pieces you put in.. how are they supported? I'm trying to follow if you cut out the broken area entirely, or if you put pieces over top...
(Topic ID: 171624)
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Flash Gordon
Bally, 1981
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1 month later
So you are able to spray right there without any real overspray concerns? Is that because of the gun used?
Rattle cans would seem to leave a dusting everywhere...
Quoted from Skins:Not sure what you're asking.
The question is How are you able to paint indoors in that tight of a space without getting overspray on everything 
3 weeks later
curious to hear how your fitment and tolerances are after powder coating. Are you tapping holes afterwards, etc
Quoted from Skins:Buffing compound. They're translucent so you can see it. The opaque ones are the same. They just need cleaned out. Post 56 show the insert before it went out to hsa.
Good to hear! I thought you had some clearing reaction and those translucent ones would be unforgiving..
You pc'd the plate the power board mounts to... the rectifiers use it as a heat sink and usually should have Thermal compound to help that. I would think the powder coat would inhibit that.
Quoted from Skins:Speaking of powder coating interfering with heat, I'm seriously comptemplating powdering this.
My main concern isn't grounding. I plan to mask where the pcb brackets mount and where ground straps interface. My concern is stapling it in back in and cracking the finished powder.
Just paint it... it's not going to take any rough handling that would require the PC
Quoted from Zitt:Me thinks you have a powder coating problem...
I only wish he didn't live in the farthest corner of our common state
Quoted from Skins:Come on out to god's country. I can't wait until I don't have to commute to your neck of the woods.
yOUCH
I can't stand the traffic up here anymore.. its kind of nutty when you have 8 lane highways as your 'local routes' and rush hour really is 3:30-7:30pm but I do like the balance of access/suburbia. We've been in VA since '98 and this place has blown up in that time period.
If I ever move.. its going to be to some place remote that still has Amazon Prime and high speed internet where I can work remote
1 week later
Quoted from Skins:Question for those following along. I've never been fully immersed in early Bally/SS. The last FG was my only one and for that I had the displays rejuvenated. The led tech seems to have come a long way. Do I, restore/replace with plasma; or do I go led? I'm leaning xpin if so. Input?
What are you starting with? Non functioning displays or no? There is the guy selling kits to redo boards now. I don't think the new segment displays look any "better" - you can certainly recognize them.
4 weeks later
1 month later
Quoted from Skins:I tried it on them before but had an issue with the Mylar staying adhered and then hanging up the drop. Maybe it was the Mylar or the embossing was raised too much. I thought about doing it again on this one but opted not to.
Must have been some bad mylar... or maybe stuff that was too thick... or maybe the non adhesive/removal junk. The color of the drop is a factor too for how well things blend.. but on the white targets for FG and Centaur I dig it.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Skins:To continue garage renovation... this is an hgtv forum right?
Slop sink finished. Automatic paper towel dispenser and gojo soap dispenser installed.Got the sandblast cabinet on a wheeled base so I can move it around easily So I can tackle the spray booth area.
round those corners... my shins/ankles are squeeling just looking at that base
Has your family asked you if you will ever return to the house after this is finished??
2 months later
Quoted from Skins:Yeah, you're right it's crazy packed. I'm leaning towards fathom.
So I was pushing to get the playfield back in the cab by the end of the weekend. I got all the switches registering nicely and noticed I lost my right lower and upper flippers. It's weird, they worked fine and I didn't mess with them but they just stopped. I have 43v at each lug and I checked the flipper switch and it's not shorted closed. Guess it's not going in the cab this weekend. Any thoughts on where to look first?
If you have voltage... it's the switched ground from the driver board. So either the path from the board... the board... or the path from the switches up. I don't remember if you redid the boards and pins in this one?
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