(Topic ID: 171624)

Another Flash Gordon : Reimagined


By Skins

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 488 posts
  • 81 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Flyrod
  • Topic is favorited by 80 Pinsiders

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There are 488 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 10.
#251 3 years ago

Amazing work. I love the attention to detail!

#252 3 years ago
Quoted from mamemaster:

Amazing work. I love the attention to detail!

Thank you.

Trying to decide on color for the rubbers. I think black might go the best with the color theme and contract on the red finned posts but I've never been a fan of black rubber. It reminds me of commercially operated pins. Maybe red? I think red on the red posts may be too much. Opinions?IMG_0468 (resized).JPG

#253 3 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

Thank you.
Trying to decide on color for the rubbers. I think black might go the best with the color theme and contract on the red finned posts but I've never been a fan of black rubber. It reminds me of commercially operated pins. Maybe red? I think red on the red posts may be too much. Opinions?

How about white? It would really pop.

My FG has red rubber but I haven't seen it together yet so can't comment on if it's too much red or not.

#254 3 years ago

clear looks really cool too. Ive seen some where with the led's it seems to "light up".

#255 3 years ago

Yellow looks good on FG.

#256 3 years ago

There is a thread where someone did yellow Titan and posted pics on Flash Gordon and it looked awesome.

#257 3 years ago

Whatever color you choose for the rubbers will also tend to bring that color out more in the playfield if they are aligned in tone or clash somewhat if they are of different tones. For me, I would want to see the yellow in the lightning bolts pop out more, but the titan yellow might be a bit too fluorescent yellow versus the paler and more subtle yellow on your FG playfield. Although I'm sure that color samples on a computer screen don't look the same as the real thing. I guess without seeing more in person comparisons, I would tend to vote for black, red or clear (way to commit, eh?).

Having seen what you've done so far, I'm pretty sure the finished product will look awesome no matter what you choose.

#258 3 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

What...? You guys don't lubricate your wiring harnesses??
I did the dishwasher thing with my IJ harness, worked great. But I might hesitate to put that filthy mess into my dishwasher...

Okay....that made me laugh out loud....and scared my cat too.

Great work OP.....your postings are a pleasure to ogle and read.

#259 3 years ago

Just catching up with this thread, awesome work Skins!

I'm not sure if you have the back box light shrouds yet but if not here's where to find them.

http://www.shapeways.com/product/TNXKP3CPZ/bally-ss-pinball-2-globe-light-shroud-upgraded?optionId=41384171

#260 3 years ago

I would agree that red titans with red posts will probably be overkill. I haven't see yellow bands on the game before...sounds interesting. I'd lean towards clear over white or black bands.

#261 3 years ago

Thanks for the suggestions and input. I think I may break from the norm again on this and go away from the era specific finned posts that only come in (from what I have found) red and blue. I'm thinking of going with a modern star post. They are not an exact match in height but very close. I'm not sure on the diameter of the base though I think it may be the same. I have to dig around and see if I have a finned post laying around to compare. If I go star posts, I can go black post with red rubbers. That is the looks I'm going for. The contrast to the predominantly red playfield and the fact they will blend in with the plastics which are predominantly black backgrounds is what I'm looking for. IMG_1391 (resized).JPG

#262 3 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

Thanks for the suggestions and input. I think I may break from the norm again on this and go away from the era specific finned posts that only come in (from what I have found) red and blue. I'm thinking of going with a modern star post. They are not an exact match in height but very close. I'm not sure on the diameter of the base though I think it may be the same. I have to dig around and see if I have a finned post laying around to compare. If I go star posts, I can go black post with red rubbers. That is the looks I'm going for. The contrast to the predominantly red playfield and the fact they will blend in with the plastics which are predominantly black backgrounds is what I'm looking for.

I like the modern black thought! That's gonna look nice and mean, like the rest of your machine!

#264 3 years ago

I like the idea.

I do remember asking Marco at some point last year if they could produce the shorter (1") clear finned post (that is used under the plastics), but they said no at that time. It would also be an option....if you were willing to sand them down.

Below is the taller 1 1/8"
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-952-13
large (resized).jpg

#265 3 years ago

if you need a custom one done send me a pm, as can modify a modern version to be shorter and order in say white and paint up as shapeways gear is not glossy ????

#266 3 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

predominantly black

imo black star posts don't reflect much light and are too dark (even if they look cool with the game turned off...)
-mof

#267 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

imo black star posts don't reflect much light and are too dark (even if they look cool with the game turned off...)
-mof

I hear what you're saying and I appreciate the feedback but man shiny black is so nice looking. I did a quick rattle can mockup and it looks really good. I only wish I had a red rubber to put on it for the full effect. As for light, FG is a pretty well light playfield and I am going led so I think light reflecting off the posts may be mitigated by those factors.

IMG_1400 (resized).JPGIMG_1401 (resized).JPGIMG_1403 (resized).JPG

#268 3 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

I only wish I had a red rubber to put on it for the full effect.

https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52

#269 3 years ago

What font did you use for the side rails?

#270 3 years ago

Yeah, I meant like literally at that moment. I'm trying to decide on a color before placing the order.

Quoted from eh97ac:

What font did you use for the side rails?

Not sure. I told the company that cut them to try and match the flyer font as best as they could.

#271 3 years ago

Skins - I really like the black post, especially when I saw the above photos of it on a pf. The red rubber idea could be a great idea also but since I am not sure of how much rubber is used on that game, the best judges are those who have one. Keep up the nice posts!

#272 3 years ago

Use red star posts with black rubber! Perfect solution!

#273 3 years ago

Hold up... There doesn't need to be a blanket approach to the entire pin, especially one with a clear upper and lower PF.

One approach I've used is where you match the posts to the playfield or plastics of an area, and create "regions" or "zones" of color -- aiming for contrast with other elements such as (targets). Use the rubbers to highlight the "Accent" color of the playfield -- which is usually yellow but sometimes white or bright orange. I used this approach with Sorcerer, and I'm very happy with the results.

What does this mean for a Flash Gordon?

I would experiment: I'd try black posts for the lower PF and red for the middle and upper PFs.

I'd consider yellow or possibly lime green rubbers.

Not white rubbers. Let the color white mean "targets" in this game. Eliminate the use of white otherwise.

Pop bases might go black for contrast.

-mof

#274 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Hold up...
I'd consider yellow or possibly lime green rubbers.

-mof

Dang mof, I think you may be on to something. I may consider lime green around the swamp, spinners, and top drop targets. Swamp at the least....A nice color contrast that matches the playfield art.

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#275 3 years ago

the cabinet looks amazing

#276 3 years ago

Interesting ideas on zoned color schemes. Do you have a pic mof? My only concern would be it ending up being too busy. Funny you mention the pop bodies. I want to paint them black but I'm worried about scratches or chipping. I know the pop rings don't touch the body anywhere other than the upper rim that the caps screw to. I guess I'm just wondering if there's a reason I'm not seeing as to why you don't see anyone painting them. I'm letting my test post I painted cure fully; then I plan on seeing how well it's adhered.

#277 3 years ago

One pic shows how I matched amber posts with amber plastics.

I used amber, purple, red, black, clear, and green starposts. But they're in different areas so your mind doesn't feel it's too busy or conflicting. As is often the case, the pics of PF and the lighting -- is crap compared to in person with the glass off. It's not easy to find the black or green starposts, but they are in the pics. The amber, red, and clear are most obvious.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sorcerer-project/page/4#post-2778048

#278 3 years ago

Sneak peak of what I'm trying to pull together...IMG_1411 (resized).PNG

#279 3 years ago

This is nuts. Excellent job.

#280 3 years ago

Truly amazing work.

#281 3 years ago

Apron started.

Blasted:
IMG_1412 (resized).JPG

Primed:
IMG_1413 (resized).JPG

Base coat:
IMG_1414 (resized).JPG

#282 3 years ago

First stencil applied:
IMG_1416 (resized).JPG

And stencil removed and weeded:

IMG_1417 (resized).JPG

#283 3 years ago

Completed. Not as perfect as I had hoped but still nice. Being so small there was zero registration so the layers had to be eyeballed. The graphics guy missed a cut out for the black insert at the second Bally "L" and I nerfed the edges on the Gordon side when pulling it up. I pulled too soon. The yellow takes double the time the reds and blacks take to setup. All in all it still looks sweet. I just wanted perfect and I'm being super picky on this one. I'm going to see if I can add in the black at the L after the fact then it will get clear coated. The blotchiness around the stencils is from the masking and will go away when clear coated.

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#284 3 years ago

Wouldn't look like a screen print without a little misregistration. Still lookin' killer. Can't wait to see clear coat.

Go, Skins, Go!

#285 3 years ago

I'm wondering why you didn't powdercoat the apron instead of painting it.

#286 3 years ago

Looking great Skins

#287 3 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I'm wondering why you didn't powdercoat the apron instead of painting it.

Can't get intricate designs with powder and didn't want to apply vinyl with out clear top coat which can't be done with powder/decals.

Quoted from Captive_Ball:

Looking great Skins

Thank you.

So I cleared it. I'm going to see what kind of touch ups I can do then reclear over those. Bummer it wasn't perfect the first go around. It looks sweet other than the few blemishes bugging me.
IMG_1421 (resized).JPG

#288 3 years ago

Looking amazing skins! A real face lift for the title.

#289 3 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

Can't get intricate designs with powder and didn't want to apply vinyl with out clear top coat which can't be done with powder/decals.

Thank you.
So I cleared it. I'm going to see what kind of touch ups I can do then reclear over those. Bummer it wasn't perfect the first go around. It looks sweet other than the few blemishes bugging me.

Any chance of some close-ups on those apron designs?

#290 3 years ago
Quoted from RyanClaytor:

Any chance of some close-ups on those apron designs?

The finished product on the Apron? If so, I'm going to redo it. No sense in settling now. I'd never be happy with it.

In order to keep moving, I started on the dreaded socket installation. I'm using solder lugs like it has been demonstrated here on pinside in past restorations. It will facilitate lamp removal better and more importantly make soldering the common braid easier. The last early Bally I did was a m'fer to get the braid soldered to the lamp base tab. IMG_1429 (resized).JPG

#291 3 years ago

Why the hex screw on each T-nut?
-mof

#292 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Why the hex screw on each T-nut?
-mof

It prevents the smaller 6-32 nuts from turning and/or popping out since their teeth aren't that long. It's common on later games. The larger 8-32 T-nuts don't have/need them.

#293 3 years ago

There is a good pic there that shows the difference between the large and small ones on LOTR. http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album511/64_G

#294 3 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

The finished product on the Apron? If so, I'm going to redo it. No sense in settling now. I'd never be happy with it.
In order to keep moving, I started on the dreaded socket installation. I'm using solder lugs like it has been demonstrated here on pinside in past restorations. It will facilitate lamp removal better and more importantly make soldering the common braid easier. The last early Bally I did was a m'fer to get the braid soldered to the lamp base tab.

For new sockets I use steel wool on the mounting tab then pre-tin them prior to putting them on the playfield. Makes thing go quite a bit faster.

#295 3 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

For new sockets I use steel wool on the mounting tab then pre-tin them prior to putting them on the playfield. Makes thing go quite a bit faster.

+1, That's my preferred method.

Amazing resto btw!

#296 3 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

I hear what you're saying and I appreciate the feedback but man shiny black is so nice looking. I did a quick rattle can mockup and it looks really good. I only wish I had a red rubber to put on it for the full effect. As for light, FG is a pretty well light playfield and I am going led so I think light reflecting off the posts may be mitigated by those factors.

How about a modern chrome one?

#297 3 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

It prevents the smaller 6-32 nuts from turning and/or popping out since their teeth aren't that long. It's common on later games. The larger 8-32 T-nuts don't have/need them.

Correct.

Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

For new sockets I use steel wool on the mounting tab then pre-tin them prior to putting them on the playfield. Makes thing go quite a bit faster.

That's my fall back if I don't like how things are laying out on the solder lugs.

Quoted from MustangPaul:

How about a modern chrome one?

Something along those line. Waiting to hear back

#298 3 years ago

skins Amazing work! How did the rails fit?

#299 3 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

skins Amazing work! How did the rails fit?

Thanks man. The rails are awesome. There was one spot on the right "s" rail where I had to notch it slightly to let the upper playfield drop in correctly. Nothing major. The oak is hard stuff. I snapped two screws. Thanks for making these rails. They won't split like the soft pine the originals are made with. The last two Flash Gordon I did, the rails were destroyed from the torque the upper and lower put on the rails when sliding the playfield for service.

#300 3 years ago

Tedious work. Much to my chagrin, all the solder lugs need to be scuffed up to take solder too so now I have to remove every one I already put in place. Looks nice and clean though; checking for continuity at the base of each one of course. I like the ability to remove the lamps free of the common braid. I also got new paint mask with proper registration marks; I hope. Re painting of the Apron tomorrow. IMG_1438 (resized).JPGIMG_1439 (resized).JPG

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