(Topic ID: 171624)

Another Flash Gordon : Reimagined

By Skins

7 years ago


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  • 488 posts
  • 81 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Flyrod
  • Topic is favorited by 81 Pinsiders

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There are 488 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 10.
29
#1 7 years ago

So I documented a Flash Gordon restore here on pinside sometime back that I no longer have. I love Flash Gordon so recently I acquired another FG and decided to restore it. This time I decided to take a different approach. I absolutely love the theme, the art and the colors. That said, I hated the cabinet design. I reached out to Jeff at pinballpimp to see if he could design some custom stencils for me. After a chat by phone I detailed what I wanted. A couple email revisions later I had the cabinet design I wanted. I may be partial but I think Jeff hit it out of the park. For reference here is the traditional design from the factory:

IMG_0087 (resized).JPGIMG_0087 (resized).JPG

...And here is what I had Jeff come up with:

IMG_0084 (resized).JPGIMG_0084 (resized).JPG

I also have side rails out being mocked-up laser cut with a custom design. As soon as I get them back (any day now so I'm told) I'll post them here. I chromed everything the last time. This time I'm going floss black. I'll be back to update things once I start prepping the cab to paint.

#2 7 years ago

CANNOT WAIT to see how BAD-ASS this turns out!

#3 7 years ago

Well, I am happy you like it. And you picked up "the best of the bests" to design your stencils.

Personally, I like the original design a lot more. You made this pinball look like an early EM machine or a late DMD, but the original flamboyance of the pinball has been lost (in my opinion).

Like you I owned a Flash Gordon in the past, sold it, and regret the fantastic artwork.

Yves

#4 7 years ago

It looks good. I'm about to order a set of stencils for my FG, but will keep it original.

I can't wait to see how your next FG turns out.

#5 7 years ago

Nice change. Looks factory. Tasteful re-do.........

#6 7 years ago

I like this revised style. Will this alternate style be available to others?

#7 7 years ago
Quoted from Captive_Ball:

I like this revised style. Will this alternate style be available to others?

I spoke to Jeff about it. For now, it's a one off. If there's demand (reception here has been luke warm so who knows); it's something he may consider. Wouldn't hurt my feeling to have a one of a kind Flash Gordon.

#8 7 years ago

Alternate version is a strong winner!!!

#9 7 years ago

Goddamit...

I restenciled mine recently and now you lay this shit on me!?! Shoulda waited...

That looks sick, definitely post some pics when u get that finished!

#10 7 years ago

I like both art designs. It would be a hard choice for me. I am considering having a graffiti artist modify my Skateball cabinet although I am a sort of "stock" guy

#11 7 years ago

Thanks guys. I appreciate it. With the black rails, legs and coin door, it will balance all the red. I'm very excited. I have a cpr gold playfield in transit as I type this.

In the mean time, the cabinet is stripped and getting ready to do some repairs, prep and sanding.

Not too bad: IMG_0158 (resized).JPGIMG_0158 (resized).JPGIMG_0159 (resized).JPGIMG_0159 (resized).JPGIMG_0160 (resized).JPGIMG_0160 (resized).JPG

Until you look at the underside. Oops. That's was a surprise. IMG_0162 (resized).JPGIMG_0162 (resized).JPGIMG_0161 (resized).JPGIMG_0161 (resized).JPG

So I picked up another empty cab only to find it was damaged by termites. I tore it apart and salvage what I need. Fwiw, the termites have long since vacated. IMG_0163 (resized).JPGIMG_0163 (resized).JPG

I would love to be able to buy a new empty cab but I will make it look new again either way.

#12 7 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

I spoke to Jeff about it. For now, it's a one off. If there's demand (reception here has been luke warm so who knows); it's something he may consider.

5 positives.....that's pretty good ...where do I sign up?

Can't wait to see how it turns out, like Jeff said. Pinball Pimp stencils rule!

#13 7 years ago

I think it looks great! I love the customizations people are doing to 80's games nowadays. And it's completely reversible. Anxious to see where you go with this.

#14 7 years ago

So... they second image in the OPs isn't stock?!
Whaaaa??
Nice job.

#15 7 years ago

Really cool project. Will be following.

#16 7 years ago

How about a new apron and shooter for your project? We're making them with a gold stripe for a custom touch if you want...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reproduction-bally-aprons

#17 7 years ago

I already have you on the list..
Maybe think about gold for the cabinet.
It really goes well with the movie theme!

#18 7 years ago
Quoted from brenna98:

I already have you on the list..
Maybe think about gold for the cabinet.
It really goes well with the movie theme!

Yes sir. It was perfect timing.

On to the cab. I started trying to repair the hole in the bottom. It's round a quarter sized hole on either side of the vent hole. I would rather not pull the cab apart to put in a new panel so I'll try this first. Like my last FG restore I plan on sanding the bottom which will render it smooth versus the texture but it will be clean. The small gaps at the patched areas will be filled with a color matched filler then the whole bottom sealed. Didn't turn out too bad and it is the bottom so I'll hold judgement for now.

I cut out the frayed edges and attached some blocking to support the patches. IMG_0178 (resized).JPGIMG_0178 (resized).JPGIMG_0161 (resized).JPGIMG_0161 (resized).JPG

Pieces in place. I lightly sanded over the patches (glue still drying) to see how well it was going to blend. IMG_0179 (resized).JPGIMG_0179 (resized).JPG

Glueing the bottom edge that is always split on these games. Sanding has also started. IMG_0180 (resized).JPGIMG_0180 (resized).JPG

IMG_0176 (resized).JPGIMG_0176 (resized).JPG

#19 7 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

I started trying to repair the hole in the bottom.

Move the brace, cut an 8" or 10" hole and install a sub.

#20 7 years ago

I really like the art redo.

I do not think a sub woofer has any place on a pin of this era.

Maybe I am old fashion!

#21 7 years ago

Oh I can think of a few '80-81 games where a subwoofer absolutely enhances the experience.

But it wouldn't have to be a sub, an 8" speaker would sound really nice in FG.

#22 7 years ago
Quoted from Shoot_Again:

I really like the art redo.
I do not think a sub woofer has any place on a pin of this era.
Maybe I am old fashion!

Oh they definitely do. Audio technology was expensive back then or they would of had it. Today the same games would have enhanced systems. All the 81 Bally's are awesome with 8 to 10 inch speakers. Actually amazing.

#23 7 years ago
Quoted from Classic_Stern:

Oh they definitely do. Audio technology was expensive back then or they would of had it. Today the same games would have enhanced systems. All the 81 Bally's are awesome with 8 to 10 inch speakers. Actually amazing.

I already have a 10" polk powered sub I can use with my FG, do you think upgrading to a larger in cabinet speaker would make much of an additional improvement?

I love the electronic sounds from this era.

#24 7 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Move the brace, cut an 8" or 10" hole and install a sub.

You would have to move both cross braces and even then it wouldn't work. The metal transformer tray spans those two cross braces. I appreciate the suggestion though.

So I continue working on the patches after the glue set over night. Sanded flat and flush.
Next a little cheat to deal with the small gap on the second plug. Flood the joint with glue. Let it settle and then dump some of the sanding dust in the crack. Work it into place and let it dry. Sand smooth after. The bottom will be overglazed to get everything a uniform color and further mask the edges IMG_0184 (resized).JPGIMG_0184 (resized).JPGIMG_0185 (resized).JPGIMG_0185 (resized).JPG
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#25 7 years ago

Replacing the bottom trim that's always broken. I scavenged the lip from the other cabinet since it's already the right thickness and profile. IMG_0190 (resized).JPGIMG_0190 (resized).JPGIMG_0189 (resized).JPGIMG_0189 (resized).JPGIMG_0188 (resized).JPGIMG_0188 (resized).JPGIMG_0186 (resized).JPGIMG_0186 (resized).JPGIMG_0187 (resized).JPGIMG_0187 (resized).JPG

#26 7 years ago

Now that the glue is dry enough, time to reshape the vent hole.

Lay out what has to be removed
IMG_0192 (resized).JPGIMG_0192 (resized).JPGIMG_0191 (resized).JPGIMG_0191 (resized).JPG

And after. Matches pretty close to the other hole now. IMG_0194 (resized).JPGIMG_0194 (resized).JPG

#27 7 years ago

Comparison of before and after:

IMG_0194 (resized).JPGIMG_0194 (resized).JPGIMG_0161 (resized).JPGIMG_0161 (resized).JPG

#28 7 years ago

Very nice Skins......I agree, the back bottom lip on these classic SS crumbles almost every time it's touched. My FG cab sheds wood.

#29 7 years ago

I usually soak the bottom edge of the pressboard back with wood glue. It soaks in & when it dries it makes it much stronger & will not chip off if the future.

#30 7 years ago

Yeah that's what I did. Then I put the new strip in to replace the broken portion and squeezed everything together. Good as new when done.

#31 7 years ago

skins - those pieces you put in.. how are they supported? I'm trying to follow if you cut out the broken area entirely, or if you put pieces over top...

#32 7 years ago

I originally tried to wafer a thin piece to set on the damage but it was going to show and the thickness of the recess was too irregular from the damaged areas. I cut the squares as small as I could yet still remove the damaged surfaces. The squares are friction fit with glue as well as a piece of blocking you can see through the vent hole. I have the friction/glue fit so tight, I really don't need the blocking now but I can't get to it to remove it. The patches aren't going anywhere now.

Edit: just to follow up. I found a piece of damage I cut out. You can see where I tried to "tray" it out to set a patch on. It didn't work so you can see how I cut the damage out to get to good wood. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#33 7 years ago

Rear done. It's a touch wavy due to the back panel not splitting evenly. Still have some bonds filling to do but structurally it's repaired. Once it's sanded and filled it will look near factory IMG_0196 (resized).JPGIMG_0196 (resized).JPG

#34 7 years ago

On My Star_Trek: Mirror Universe Project; I cheated and just used some quarter round... but I don't have a specific picture of it.

#35 7 years ago

More bottom repairs using scavenged trim from the donor cab.,IMG_0201 (resized).JPGIMG_0201 (resized).JPGIMG_0200 (resized).JPGIMG_0200 (resized).JPGIMG_0198 (resized).JPGIMG_0198 (resized).JPG

#36 7 years ago

Use wood harder on the back of the board on the bottom of the cabinet. The particle board. That stuff is awesome and then it will never , ever split again if you move it around. Only 8 dollars a can and will do that entire area. Makes rotten particle board sand like hard plywood. Great stuff by Minwax. The stuff is amazing.

#37 7 years ago
Quoted from Classic_Stern:

Use wood harder on the back of the board on the bottom of the cabinet. The particle board. That stuff is awesome and then it will never , ever split again if you move it around. Only 8 dollars a can and will do that entire area. Makes rotten particle board sand like hard plywood. Great stuff by Minwax. The stuff is amazing.

Never heard of the stuff, will have to check it out!

#38 7 years ago
Quoted from Classic_Stern:

Use wood harder on the back of the board on the bottom of the cabinet. The particle board. That stuff is awesome and then it will never , ever split again if you move it around. Only 8 dollars a can and will do that entire area. Makes rotten particle board sand like hard plywood. Great stuff by Minwax. The stuff is amazing.

Talking about this?
479f34ca-1e7b-48fc-bfdb-d1b0bd422bfb_1000 (resized).jpg479f34ca-1e7b-48fc-bfdb-d1b0bd422bfb_1000 (resized).jpg

#39 7 years ago

That is it. DA CHIT!!!!... Rotten wood becomes harder and better then original. Plus its not water based so it does not swell. It goes into the pores of the wood and fast. All the way through the dang piece and then turns it into a nice firm wood material that is equal to about oak in hardness.

#40 7 years ago

Do you simply soak it in and then use clamps to hold sections together while it dries?

#41 7 years ago

No you pour it on the wood and it soaks in. Then it dries and you sand it. something like 12 hours. No clamps.

#42 7 years ago

Bottom sealed. Now I can see how much color difference there is between the patches and the rest of the bottom panel. Once it's dry I can start playing with on over glaze to get it one uniform color. IMG_0221 (resized).JPGIMG_0221 (resized).JPG

And a before shot for reference:
IMG_0181 (resized).JPGIMG_0181 (resized).JPG

#43 7 years ago

Making progress. Barely noticeable. I could spend another 4hrs and only improve it a percent or two. Not worth it imo. IMG_0227 (resized).JPGIMG_0227 (resized).JPGIMG_0228 (resized).JPGIMG_0228 (resized).JPG

#44 7 years ago

Now that the bottom is done and dry, I can flip it over and start on the other side. First up if to glue, brad and clamp the head pedestal. These are always cracked and separated. IMG_0231 (resized).JPGIMG_0231 (resized).JPG

Then on to the interior sanding.
IMG_0232 (resized).JPGIMG_0232 (resized).JPG

#45 7 years ago

Inside bottom done, ready to seal.

IMG_0242 (resized).JPGIMG_0242 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#46 7 years ago

Lots of sanding, filling, sanding, filling.

While that goes on, a little sneak peak...

IMG_0302 (resized).PNGIMG_0302 (resized).PNG

#47 7 years ago

Do you like to play with things.... for a little while?

#49 7 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Do you like to play with things.... for a little while?

http://www.guntner.com/FlashGordon/Bored.wav

#50 7 years ago

Oh, lol. I should have recognized what he was alluding to. Thanks.

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