Thx and yes indeed

--

Wow, I learned something today. I had to look the Susan B Anthony dollar coin up on Wikipedia.

Here in Europe we usually used only one coin slot, or two at most. Hence I'm used to see a blank slot in the middle. Or even two blank slots (like how I got the game). I can imagine it seems awkward when you're used to 3 slots being used.

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Head is back on the cabinet. All hardware is done (apart from polishing the lockbar). Game is on its final (powder coated) legs. Time to turn the switch on...

Nothing connected yet but I measure a problem on my rectifier board: 24-ish V on TP1 (should be about 6.5V). It didn't make sense. Finally I discovered why: the previous owner had cut one of the traces when he hacked the board. It was very well done: hardly visible and it took me a few hours of desperate debugging until I finally noticed it.

I hate him (haha ...not really )

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Not much time left to hook up more stuff. But I can report that the cabinet GI is working!

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More tomorrow. I need a few beers now.

Thx!!

Dang. I had totally forgotten that I had used the lamp board and auxiliary lamp board from my EBD to replace the malfunctioning ones on my Medusa. As a consequence I had to address the issues now: only half of the featured lamps worked...

Few lamps still don't work but I suspect the wiring for these ones... Anyway: progress

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The second E is the socket itself being loose, I'll replace it.
There's also the 56K between the flippers which refuses to light up, and the two upper bulbs (in a series of 4) next to the lanes. Both are on the same brown wire...

At least my boards are ok now. Quite a complex fix for an amateur

Oops no: I was wrong. Few more SCR's appeared to be broken. Here are the culprits.

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I can now officially check off GI and featured lamps. The end is near

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Thx!
Repopulating the playfield now. Almost there. The biggest job remaining is migrating these posts to my new lasercut plastic guides...

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I'm very happy with my clear plastic protectors. Overlap is just perfect.

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It's only a matter of hours now before I can shoot the eightball again

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Clear guides are in place.

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I'm waiting for two more plastic protectors to be laser cut before I can finish this off. Soon I hope

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And... finished!!!

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(... well, not really, only remaining is: adding those two clear plastics, printing my custom apron cards and polishing the lockbar). Playfield is back in the cabinet, all wires in place and connected. Pfew... 1st game: 304.090 - highscore

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I have no garage, hence I cannot make garage photos, but I'll try to make a few better ones when the game is back in the gameroom

Thank you all for the kind words! I assume that everybody documenting his restore stories here, will confirm that it is motivating to have fellow travelers on these time-taking and by times adventurous projects... So thank you all for the reading and feedback

.

Not 100% sure yet, but obviously it will again be a late 70ies, early 80ies game since that's almost all I have. Most likely a Williams this time. Still debating between 2 candidates. I'll decide shortly, as soon as this guy is out of my way

Thank you

I must confess that I've been lazy the last few days. The lockbar is still eagerly waiting to be polished .

But: I've been test-playing a lot and fine-tuning the switches is done. The flow is great, really super smooth ball action. Tap-passing is a little harder than before though, damn

I printed my custom apron cards. I used the same typeface as for my inline drop targets: serif, cowboy style...

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Haha, not offended at all

Here are the promised "Garage-but-Sorry-I-Have-No-Garage"-photos...

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I kept the original cards.

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Few more shots of the playfield.

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EBD in place, back between its friends

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And that's all folks! Time to shoot some 8-balls now
-- The End --

Thank you!

Haha, yes: YEARS of work ahead...
but to be honest: my hands are already itching to start a new project

I have been experiencing some issues with old lamp sockets in the pop bumpers. These old connectors keep losing contact

I will replace them with modern Stern lamp sockets (the ones with flexible wires) but problem is how to keep these sockets properly in place in the bumper base as they often bulge out of center. I reckon I'm not the first one to experience this and I saw someone using a zip tie to attach the wires to the socket and keep it in place. I wanted to try something else and have drawn sort of a "support" that will hopefully keep the socket in place in the center of the bumper base.

My proof of concept cut by hand seems to work: after a few attempts and adjusting dimensions this one is a tight fit and the socket doesn't bulge. So far so good. I'll have them properly lasercut from PETG.

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Hehe. MacGyver was on the tele when I was a kid...

Here's an update on those lamp socket supports I designed to keep these Stern sockets with flexible wires properly in place. As said I had them lasercut from 2mm PETG (filling the gaps when combining a few sets of plastic protectors). Left is the new socket + support, right the original socket.

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Once in place they are totally invisible. And as hoped they keep the sockets firmly in the center.

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(If anyone wants the vector drawing, simply shoot me a PM)