Eight Ball Deluxe
Bally, 1981I had very little time today, so I spent it on some fun.
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First colour done. Not easy to properly apply the mask since the print is very close to the border. Second colour tomorrow. If it works out well then I will have saved the money of a decal + transport. Oh well... 
I'm truly amazed at your attention to detail.
This is one of the best restore projects I've ever seen. I have an original and LE that I hope to find to restore. Just hope my restores turn out half as nice.
Keep up the good work.
Thank you. You guys are too kind... 
Second colour on the apron is done. Overall I'm not convinced that it's worth the effort. As said it's difficult to properly position the mask film, not only because the printed area is close to the edge, but also because the apron isn't a flat surface. The mask film gets slightly distorted. As a consequence I've had an even harder time to properly position the second mask, and I had to cut it into pieces to fit it right.
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Few slight glitches that I have to fix before clearcoat. But eventually I'm happy with the result and the colours match well with the playfield.
In the mean while the head is finished.
All hardware is back in place, apart from connecting the wires. I'll do that when the head is back on the cabinet.
I think your apron is looking great! 
... compared to this effort:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/best-method-for-apron-art#post-4012098
hoping Bryan_Kelly will share his source for the dry transfers he mentions when he gets more time.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/best-method-for-apron-art#post-4012191
else I think I will just get a set of tins from Merf:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/best-method-for-apron-art#post-4012496
and use my time to focus on PF work.
Your machine is looking great @g94!!
G94, I technically use something like illustrator and I did not even know it! Solidworks/CAD is everyday life as I am a mechanical engineer so a dxf is essentially the same thing as a svg (scaleable vector graphic).
I think I might try to import my bitmap of my play field and make a sketch of the lines i want to make. Then save a dxf and convert to a svg.
Hehe. Well yes, that should work. As long as you can export a proper svg file you're good. Another good alternative to Illustrator is Sketch: much cheaper (no monthly license) and a perfect tool for this purpose.
I've been addressing various small stuff lately: clearcoating drop targets, apron, siderails, done more sanding, more plating, more cleaning, more polishing,... not really worth documenting with photos I guess.
Also proceeded with rebuilding the cabinet.
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I simplified the power section: my game had a interlock switch (not all EBD's seem to have them), I decided to ditch it. I also removed the power point on the tilt panel: European sockets don't fit anyway... New diodes, new capacitors, I'll resolder the tilt panel next.
Today was the day I've been waiting for since more than two weeks: I finally sanded and polished the playfield.
I'm not aiming for a high gloss here, perhaps just a little more reflective than the original varnish.
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T-nuts and wooden guides are back in place. Playfield rebuild has officially begun
The playfield is back in the tipper. GI first.
I'm replacing the original Bally 555 sockets by new 47 bulb holders. By times I have to be a little creative about where to put the second wire. I reckon that keeping it close to the stapled wire is the best approach.
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Next: all controlled lamps.
Old and new next to each other.
Am I the only person here to think that there's something sexy to these brand new virgin bulb holders? I wonder... 
Amazing work.
Why did you do a clear coat in the very beginning? I understand the coat later on but doesn't it create a layer over some damage?
What type of paint did you use for the playfield touch ups?
Thanks in advance.
Ted
Quoted from Tember:Why did you do a clear coat in the very beginning? I understand the coat later on but doesn't it create a layer over some damage?
What type of paint did you use for the playfield touch ups?
Two reasons basically: to prevent damage to the original artwork. And to make the surface flat, which is better for airbrushing. The layer is very thin, because sanded, but remains thick in the deeper spots.
I'm using various paints: Metal Craft and Ready Tex from Dr. Ph Martins (but seems like they don't sell these anymore). Also Wicked Colours and Airbrush Colours from Createx. I'm very satisfied with the Opaque series, I always try to use these as a base to start from when mixing a colour. Very good coverage (thinner layer of paint) and the colour hardly changes when drying.
To populate the full dimensions of the plexy plate (120 x 60 cm) I had to add two more plastic protector sets. So why not already make them for upcoming restorations. I'm getting better at this: it only takes me about 2 hours to scan a complete plastic set, stitch them together in Photoshop and draw the clear protectors in Illustrator.
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They promised I'll have my clear plastics lasercut by the end of the week.
In the mean while I'm cleaning and reassembling the playfield assembly's. I'm happy with my home-plated metal parts. Connectors to be done. Slow progress, but progress nonetheless...
I am curious about how you reattach your wiring, you have left a good amount of wire on that target on the right which makes it easy to identify wires. Do you do a splice or move the harness cut end to the coil and hope there is enough slack?
I really like your idea of putting connectors on the major sub-assemblys. What is the manufacturer and model/part # of the type you're using. I'll look for similar type here in US. Keep up the good work.
Quoted from STEM_Robotix:What is the manufacturer and model/part # of the type you're using. I'll look for similar type here in US.
Sorry for the late reply. I looked it up but unfortunately I don't have the order confirmation with the exact part numbers anymore (bought these a long time ago). All are Molex, I have a few sizes for 4, 6, ... wires. Mouser sells these.
Coin door plastics are hard to find (or at least: I don't know where to find them), hence I had the clear plexi lasercut and would add the artwork myself. I first tried to airbrush the artwork, but that didn't look good enough. I bought a few colours of adhesive vinyl and cut the artwork with Cricut.
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I think that worked out pretty well, opacity vs transparency is good. I have two versions of the Bally logo: with and without the outline. Not sure yet which I should use...
Yes, my windows need a good cleaning
Quoted from g94:Not sure yet which I should use...
Man, those turned out great! I like the two tone for that "extra" touch.
Thank you
What did I learn today: next time I'll make sure to first rebuild all assembly's before stapling the ground braid and lamps on the playfield bottom. With only 5 assembly's reinstalled I already had to slightly adjust the position of the ground wire twice and move 1 lamp. No big deal, but still. If I had rebuilt the assembly's first then I could have checked the positions right away.
On another note: I'm happy I opted for this custom serif typeface on the drop targets
You have to post this last picture to this topic: "Pinball Photography: Post your best photos here."
This is an amazing shot.
Quoted from g94:Thank you
What did I learn today: next time I'll make sure to first rebuild all assembly's before stapling the ground braid and lamps on the playfield bottom. With only 5 assembly's reinstalled I already had to slightly adjust the position of the ground wire twice and move 1 lamp. No big deal, but still. If I had rebuilt the assembly's first then I could have checked the positions right away.
On another note: I'm happy I opted for this custom serif typeface on the drop targets
Those targets looks very nice! Love to have those on mine...
Quoted from Bohdi:Those targets looks very nice! Love to have those on mine...
Thx! I can send you a pdf with the artwork if you want
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Update: the beast is back!
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In place...
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I'm slowly getting somewhere. Next I'll put back the flipper units and the playfield switches. The wire harness is cleaned as well.
Flipper assembly's have been rebuilt. I kept the original Bally system, I know some are against it, but actually I liked how the game played. Tap passes were super easy, not sure if that would still be the case with Williams style mechs.
Also all switches have been rebuilt and are back in place.
The playfield is ready! ... apart from the wire harness
Little time today, so I spent it on some loose ends. Like putting the new lasercut high voltage protector in place. It has a slightly custom design because I added two holes for the heatsinks. And since the original spacers were missing I had to be a little creative... I'll have to figure out if I can order these somewhere.
I gotta thank you for putting together such a nice thread. Great detail and ideas! I'm doing an EBD LE right now and this thread has helped me tremendously. Special thanks for showing some of the things you've been able to accomplish with the cutter. I had to re-do all the insert labels, and getting a cutter was the best decision. Your thread helped me see the value - and I only regret not getting one sooner.
Quoted from g94:And since the original spacers were missing I had to be a little creative... I'll have to figure out if I can order these somewhere.
Here you go.....
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/M-1829-3
Quoted from solderboy:I gotta thank you for putting together such a nice thread.
I'm quite new to Pinside and discovered these restorations forums only recently. But as I said at the very start of this thread: seeing other people’s work is inspiring to me. So I thought: why not return the favour and add one more restoration to the pack… I'm glad you appreciate.
Yeah this thread is great. Really top notch job. Defiantly using your tips and pointers for my restore.
Hehe, thanks for the kind words LTG, don't worry: I was just joking...
I'll keep sharing as things progress.
Quoted from g94:to order
WOW, what a work of art! Bet working on it in the future will be a breeze.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:WOW, what a work of art! Bet working on it in the future will be a breeze.
Thx! Yes I hope so. It took quite some time to get all connectors done on the major assembly's, but all are finally connected to the wire harness. Removing a pop bumper in the future will only be matter of unscrewing 4 screws and unplugging 1 connector.
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As always I underestimated the amount of work. I had hoped to finish soldering today, but at best I'm half way... 
I am already happy that I added connectors to the assembly's. Quickly moving the 7-bank out of the way made soldering those sockets super-easy. It would have been a nightmare with that huge monster in the way...
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And pfew! It's finished. I can now officially mark off the underside of the playfield. Glad I can switch back to the top
I have an Embryon that has the same style pop bumpers, it makes so much more sense than the traditional type. My Xenon came out slightly after but had the traditions style bumpers. That sea of light sockets is screaming for a PCB holding sockets instead. Its funny how the pinball manufactures thought.
Quoted from g94:I am already happy that I added connectors to the assembly's. Quickly moving the 7-bank out of the way made soldering those sockets super-easy. It would have been a nightmare with that huge monster in the way...
And pfew! It's finished. I can now officially mark off the underside of the playfield. Glad I can switch back to the top
INSANELY nicely done!!
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:INSANELY nicely done!!
Well thank you sir! Given your reputation I'll take that as a huge compliment.
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Whoever thought that I would be able to resist tearing this thing apart, was wrong. Although I must confess that it is not my favorite part of the project.
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On the other hand: this was fun!
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Second colour tomorrow...
The door cover has got a few bumps and scratches during its life in the wild, and I didn't manage to get rid of them all. This is the best it gets. Yet it seems pointless to buy a new cover (especially given the shipping cost from the US as I don't know where to find one in Europe). This will do. I'm happy with my alternative to the Bally decal. Oh yes I'm happy with that...
Quoted from g94:...I must confess that it is not my favorite part of the project....
On the other hand: once done the coindoor is very rewarding. Now that it is back in place the few bumps in the cover aren't really noticeable. I opted for the coindoor plastic with the red Bally logo and outline, as it adds some colour.
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Better than before...
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I removed the middle coin mech as it is useless. Also I didn't connect the coindoor coil. The wires are still there, nicely hidden in the harness. Before/after:
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Amsterdam
Wichita, KS
Richmond Hill, ON
