Another Eight Ball Deluxe screaming for attention


By g94

2 months ago


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There are 107 posts in topic. You are on page 2 of 3.
#51 34 days ago

There was a huge monster sitting on my workbench...

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I killed it...

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#52 34 days ago

You killed it dead.

#53 34 days ago

Only for now. It has seven lives

#54 34 days ago

Look who's back, more shiny than ever...

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Now with the clearcoat I can see how the repairs blend in with the original art. I'm happy so far, colours are good...

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Obviously the clear is way too thick now. I will let it cure for a week or so, will then sand most clear away and start the remaining repairs.

#55 33 days ago

Having fun today with some paper and eco-tape...

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#56 31 days ago

When I bought the game I had also bought a new target set.
After 3 years the targets got some serious damage

Actually I think they were not very well made in the first place: some have a different colour (4X and 8-ball are more cream-colour whilst the rest is pure white) and even the positioning of the print isn't consistent (4X is positioned higher, the horseshoes are positioned too low and are partly hidden below the playfield surface). Hence I have removed the damaged print and redesigned the labels to my liking: I used a serif typeface (instead of the straight non-serif font) as I think this is more in line with the artwork on the playfield.

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I've sandblasted the targets and sprayed a cream-colour base coat. Will for sure be a better fit than clear white.

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I'll airbrush the labels tomorrow and will then add a few layers of clearcoat to protect them from future damage.

#57 31 days ago

I will be curious to see how they sprayed clear coat last with a metal ball bashing it for 3 years! Love all the detail you're putting into this but I have found that mylar is a lot more durable.

#58 31 days ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

I will be curious to see how they sprayed clear coat last with a metal ball bashing it for 3 years! Love all the detail you're putting into this but I have found that mylar is a lot more durable.

Thanks for your input. You could be right, although I must say that I did this before on my Harlem Globetrotters drop targets and after 6 months of intense play they still look like new. I reckon that "bashing" is perhaps relative in this case since drop targets have a slight friction. I want to try the clearcoat solution first as it looks better than mylar imho. In any way they cannot look worse than these repro's did after 3 years...

With the protective clearcoat on the topside of the playfield, I find it the perfect moment to address the bottom: surface sanded with the orbital, through playfield holes sanded with dremel, inserts cleaned, added 2 layers of semi-matte grey paint. It looks better than before

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#59 30 days ago

I haven't been documenting the progress on the head and cabinet so far. As said earlier both were pretty solid and in good shape so nothing spectacular happened here. Some easy-to-fix-damage at the cabinet bottom is perhaps the only repair worth mentioning.

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Apart from that, the usual time-taking process: sanding - filling - sanding - filling - primering - sanding - filling - ... - to end up with a final coat of primer, sanded again.

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It's rather exceptional to have two different primers on one cabinet. As said earlier I will apply my stencils in a different order than I think is usually the case, starting with cream base colour. Hence the sides need white primer. The inside and the back will be black and get a dark primer, more precisely: a very dark reddish brown.

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And now I am in doubt... actually I find that primer colour really beautiful. It makes the cabinet more "stylish" than plain black, more sophisticated perhaps. I quickly put the playfield in place and I think the colour matches very well.

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To paint the cabinet black or not to paint the cabinet black, that is the question...

#60 30 days ago

wow...your work is amazing!

#61 29 days ago

Thank you

Cream base colour has been applied to the cabinet.

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More and more I am convinced that the dark reddish brown will be the way to go instead of black.
And not that it is relevant at this point, but I'm also happy with the level of shine. Once coated there should definitely not be more reflection than this.

#62 25 days ago

The idea of repainting these repro drop targets with a cream-colour base tint has been a true pain. I've been trying multiple paints, both solvent based and water based, but none sticked as one could expect. Even after intense sanding the base colour kept coming loose. And for sure I didn't want use these white drop targets as such.

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Eventually I've adopted a new strategy and harvested all spare playfields I have lying around for cream-coloured drop targets and luckily I have found enough. I cleaned them as thorough as possible, removed the original print, sanded them and finally airbrushed my custom artwork.

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This took me far more time than expected, but I'm happy with the result. I decided to keep the blue spot on the lower right side of the 3X target as a witness of my struggle.

#63 25 days ago

The playfield has been sanded, it is totally flat, not the slightest insert border remaining.

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Time for the final repairs. Yellow.

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Orange.

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Black.

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Pfew. Line thickness isn't 100% accurate, but I think it's fair to say that the area looks better than a month ago

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#64 25 days ago

Putting the labels back in the inline drop target area. Black outline first, then the inner colouring.

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Happy with this.

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Better than before...

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Almost there!
Only a few small bits and pieces left, and the insert borders of course.

#65 24 days ago

I've airbrushed all large insert borders, the bumper outlines and a first part of the drop target inserts.

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Nice to see how certain areas are getting finalized. The rope is back as well. Only a little fix in that brown corner remaining.

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Unpair drop target inserts done. I wasn't happy with the 15-insert. Problem is that the artwork doesn't properly align with the position of the insert. Unfortunately slightly moving the border doesn't work as a solution to camouflage it. So I removed the fresh paint. I have an idea that could work, we'll see tomorrow if it does.

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Sunshine outside. My window is my custom lightbox

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#66 23 days ago

Spent some time with Illustrator. Back then some of these cards must have been created using a typewriter. Being a designer myself it feels funny in a way to imitate design mistakes, alignment errors, double spaces, wrong indents and leading... My head says to correct them, my heart says to keep them.

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I think I have some slightly tinted cardboard in my archives.

#67 23 days ago

Looks like you haven't had any problem airbrushing one color on top of the other without a layer of clear in between, have you?

#68 23 days ago

Not really, no. In my experience the only reason to have a layer of clear in between is to protect previous paints from scratches or other little damage. It also allows to wipe off paint (in case that would be required) without the risk of damaging previous paints.

But apart from that the paint seems strong enough and doesn't need clear. I always let it settle overnight before proceeding with further repairs. And I am careful, covering previous repairs with protective paper.

The downside of having too many layers of clear is that it adds up, you end up with a thick layer of paint/clear which I want to avoid, since worst case these layers become visible, casting thin shadows.

#69 23 days ago

That is some really stunning playfield work. Nice job.

#70 23 days ago

Thank you

The second batch of insert borders is done. What a mess: I had a little fight with my airbrush. Thankfully not on the fresh painted artwork.

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The fresh painted black seems darker, but that is because the rest is sanded, hence faded. Once cleared all colours will blend in perfectly.

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Also all borders of the through playfield holes are done. I'm happy that, when I started this project, I decided to reposition all woodtones to actually align with the holes. Many were a bad match. Now all of them are spot on

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#71 22 days ago

Then about the 15-insert.
As said the original artwork didn't align properly with the insert itself. Yesterday I tried to move up the border a little, but that didn't work: the border became oval and the number was off centre. I couldn't but remove the fresh paint.

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Today I tried a different approach: the plan was to mix some paint that would match the colour of the insert itself, and paint the bare wood between insert and border. Next I airbrushed the border on its original position.

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I think it worked! The alignment issue is not really noticeable (unless you know what to look for). Things look good with backlight as well.

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Same issue with the 5X insert. Actually it was even worse...

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1 week later
#72 14 days ago

The playfield is out for its final clearcoat.
Back to the cabinet and head. I got my custom stencils plotted in a local shop.

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Second colour -gold- has been applied. The stencils are low tack, so that went quite well.

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One thing I hadn't really paid attention to before is that the original artwork on the head has not been mirrored: the same stencil was used for both sides. Giving it a little more thought I prefer the left side: that golden frame is next to the outside border, the guy appears from behind the bevel. On the right side that frame sticks to the bevel and the guy is partly hidden by, ... well by nothing.

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Obviously is a matter of taste which side looks best, but as I was making my own stencils anyway I decided to mirror the artwork and have the golden frame consistently next to the outside border.

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#73 14 days ago

Reversing the word Bally of course.....

#74 14 days ago

Looking good !

#75 14 days ago

Thx guys!

Quoted from stashyboy:

Reversing the word Bally of course.....

ha-ha, yes of course. As far as I know there has never been a pinball manufacturer called Yllab

So today I did the 3rd and final colour: dark brown - not black.

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What did I learn today?

1) Next time I should be more generous with overlap. By designing such little overlap I made my job of aligning stencils unnecessary complicated.

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2) Producing my own stencils was a budget saver, and allowed me to slightly adapt the artwork to my liking. I would do it again. Nonetheless it is a very time-taking and delicate job and more and more I respect guys like PinballPimp who produce these stencils for others. Really I do.

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3) Dark brown - not black - is the way to go! Makes it more sophisticated imo. It is difficult to catch the colour on camera (which tends to compensate that huge dark area). The photos of the head are closer to reality.

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There are a few spots where paint got slightly under the stencils (don't know why this happened) but that's an easy fix. Also I seem to have lost a black part on the guy's hat. I'll search my bin tomorrow

#76 13 days ago

Playfield is back and... ahh, I couldn't resist

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#77 13 days ago

Beautiful.

Yves

#78 10 days ago

Amazing attention to detail. About to start a restoration on my own ebd.. Wish I had half the talent!

#79 10 days ago

Great thread! Awesome job!

#80 10 days ago

Jawadde!!

#81 10 days ago

Your artistic skills on my I-need-to-learn-how-to-do-this list.

Your work is absolutely amazing !

#82 10 days ago

Thank you guys for all the kind words. I'm very happy with where the project sits at this point

I'm keeping track of the time spent. Rough breakdown:

Playfield repairs, clearcoat, sanding & airbrush touch ups: 60,5 hrs
Cabinet and head repairs, sanding, repaint: 35,5 hrs
Stencils design and production: 16 hrs
Clear plastics and protectors: 4 hrs
...
Including all other stuff done so far (teardown, cleaning, assembly's, sandblasting, plating...) I've spent 176,5 hours.
Amazing how much time it all takes and how fast it adds up...

#83 10 days ago

There's two reasons why I don't clearcoat my playfields myself, and presumably never will.

1) I have no garage, hence no chance to build such spraybooth
2) How can I ever hope to obtain a result that would even be remotely close to what this guy with his professional equipment is doing to my playfields... this is how I got it back. And it's not even polished

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#84 10 days ago

You are a wise man and I'm slowly coming to the same conclusion. When you add up the time, cost of material, and the cost of screwing up, I think I'd be a thousand time leaving it to a body shop to spray the clear.

Take for instance orange peel. Even a tiny bit of it requires sanding and cleaning up the resulting sludge in the holes.

Just out of curiosity, how much are you paying each time you have it cleared?

#85 8 days ago
Quoted from lb1:

Just out of curiosity, how much are you paying each time you have it cleared?

I pay like 40€ per session, products (Dupont 2K) and VAT included. This playfield had 3 clearcoat sessions in total, so the total cost was about 120€...

#86 8 days ago
Quoted from g94:

I pay like 40€ per session, products (Dupont 2K) and VAT included. This playfield had 3 clearcoat sessions in total, so the total cost was about 120€...

This seems to me like a great deal. The cost of clear is something like $20 give-or-take. Everything else is time. Setting up, sanding, cleaning etc.... The cost of screwing up time and result wise can be massive. Like spraying too thick and getting 3D effects and shadows. Ask me how I know...

#87 8 days ago

Amazing. I feel so unworthy when I see someone with your level of skills. Really impressive restoration and excellent documentation.

#88 6 days ago

Thank you

I've been a little lazy over the past few days, except that cabinet and head have been clearcoated-sanded-clearcoated-sanded... Final (hopefully) semi-gloss coat tomorrow. I'll make some pictures then.

Now, if there's one part that I hate on a pinball machine restore then it's the lamp panel. And most of all I hate these staples. Arggg... the horror.

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Largest gaps were filled with Evercoat Rage Ultra and sanded flat. Since this last photo the panel has been primered and had a second session of filler. I'll sand it again tomorrow and it should then hopefully be ready for paint.

Overall I'll be happier within a few days when I'll have worked my way through this pile and I can start rebuilding my game...

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#89 4 days ago

Rebuild has officially begun

I had hoped to save the tinned copper braid but although I was very careful when removing the staples, it got too damaged. Hence I had to desolder all lamp holders. I decided to replace the #555 lamps under the game logo by blinking #455 lamps. I have these on my Embryon and Fathom, and they add some nice subtle animation to the backglass imo.

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I repainted the front in cream colour instead of generic white. The back is now grey, actually the same colour as the underside of the playfield. I was considering this idea since a while: if the technical side of the playfield is grey, then why not treat all technical areas consequently? In a way this made sense to me and so far I'm not unhappy to have given it a try. I'll decide whether to keep it once the boards and cards are back in place.

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#90 3 days ago

Kudos to you for the amazing amount of time and detail you've put into this documentation. I've just inherited an EBD and am following your restoration with an eye towards how to try to do even some of this. Since I'm a newbie I'll only take on the "easier" things, certainly not the playfield work you've done. But this is such a great resource to go back to and make sure I'm heading in the right direction. I have lots of questions but I'll meter them out slowly.

Q1: When you painted your cabinet, I see you masked off the bottom. Do you remove everything (power suppy, tilt mechs, wiring on sides) and reinstall after painted?

Looking forward to more of your posts here.

#91 2 days ago

There's worse things to inherit than an Eight Ball Deluxe...

Note that this thread is not a "how to restore an EBD"-manual. It's just a write-down of my personal approach on restoring/pimping my personal machine and the choices I make whilst progressing. What I try to say is that this is a very thorough project, yet I don't document every detail that could be helpful as a manual. At best my documentation could inspire other people, like other people's threads inspire me.

There's more generic/specific threads here on Pinside with detailed explanations on various aspects of pinball restoration, Vid's guide to playfield restoration comes to mind.

Answering your Q1: yes, every part from the cabinet has been removed prior to repairs and painting. I have just started rebuilding the game, I stapled the new ground braid in the cabinet today...

#92 2 days ago

Can't believe I'm just now finding this thread, am eager to go back and "catch up" on the great work!

#93 2 days ago

Slow progress, but progress nonetheless...
Tech cards are printed on thick creamy paper and in place. I'm thinking of putting all original cards in an envelop and staple it somewhere in the game.

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I also started rebuilding the cabinet. Ground braid, leg protectors and part of the power train are done. A new high voltage plastic is being lasercut. I want to have this thing on its legs and out of the way before starting the playfield rebuild.

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#94 2 days ago

Have been following your thread with great interest. I am curious how you restored/finished the rectifier board mounting plate? It looks like a brushed finish. I have one I need to do something with and it is quite rusty.

Also, where did you get pins and connector bodies for that board? I had a swap a pin the other day and the normal .093" pins/sockets were too big to fit into the housing of J3 and the socket was too loose on the pin.

#95 2 days ago

Luckily my mounting plate wasn't very rusted and I managed to sand it properly, indeed to a brushed finish. Except for a few stains caused by heat paste - see the previous owner's hack. But fortunately the 220V warning card is hiding these.

The connectors on the board are original. All the rest has been replaced.

#96 1 day ago

How did you make the outlines for the cricut machine? Specifically the explosion drop target area? Did you select a group of color in photo editing and make a stroke selection to turn it into a line? Then import the line layer to cricut software?

#97 1 day ago

Personally I don't like using autotrace functionality. I prefer to manually draw the outlines as bezier curves in Illustrator, even though this takes more time.

In this specific case: all yellow and white/grey outlines (and the text) were drawn using the pen tool in keyline view on a very high zoom level, whilst the scan was on a template layer (which is why the bitmap information is visible even in keyline view).

For the border of the orange shape I used a trick: the original drawing seems composed of a series of strokes to create the exploding effect. So I drew similar straight brush strokes (of 1,5 pt if I remember well). Next I outlined these strokes (path operations) which is why they are all equally thick and parallel as you can see on the screenshot. Finally I combined them to create one huge compound path.

Each colour is on a separate layer which allows to combine all shapes from the same colour into one huge shape, which I then copy on a separate artboard and export as an svg file. Cricut doesn't require any additional software license to import svg files.

I hope my explanation makes sense, not easy for a non-native speaker

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#98 1 day ago

Well you certainly know what you are talking about and it clearly shows in your work. I maybe understood 1/5 of that but I appreciate the explanation. I do not have illustrator only gimp so I will mak due with my trace function. Looking foward to the completed pin!

#99 1 day ago
Quoted from Langless28:

Well you certainly know what you are talking about and it clearly shows in your work. I maybe understood 1/5 of that but I appreciate the explanation. I do not have illustrator only gimp so I will mak due with my trace function. Looking coward to the completed pin!

Oops, yes sorry: I guess it doesn't make much sense if you're not familiar with Illustrator, thought you did by reading your question... Are it specifically the explosion outlines you need? I can send you the svg.

#100 1 day ago

I do not have a EBD, just those skills will suite me well for my time warp restore.

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