(Topic ID: 131094)

WH20 -- Another Bigfoot Problem (Voltage Drop on bi-directional board)

By cincyITguy

8 years ago



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  • 8 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Crash
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A-15680 connect.jpg
#1 8 years ago

So when I first received this WH2O, Bigfoot wouldn't move at all. Thanks to this forum, I found the busted cap and burnt traces. Fixes those things and he was working like a champ. Fast forward 6 months of no issues, and he is acting up again. This time, he moves during the power on test, but it is very slow. To the point where he gets stuck on the diverter when passing it. In test mode, he will spin both directions (clockwise better than counter), but again very slow. Sometimes he speeds up as he goes, and sometimes not. Both optos are reading, but I get a fail on the location test. I've tested continuity between - of C2 and C3, and from R9 to the middle leg of Q1 on the bi-directional board. Both traces good. Seems like the motor speed and location would be different issues, but as they just popped up at the same time, I'm sure that they are not. Anyone have an idea of what to test on the board next?

Thank you,
Aaron

#2 8 years ago

OK, so I've cleaned up my mess on the board, and have gotten closer to solving at least one of my problems, but I still need help. In Bigfoot head test, I am getting 12v in one direction (moves fast), and just over 6v in the other. I have tested the tip102's and tip107's (on board) and they all read between 350 and 800. Just replace them, or something else?

Thanks,
Aaron

#3 8 years ago

If this is the same bi-directional driver board ?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-bigfoot-problems#post-2289541

possible U1 has been corroded inside. Could perform a little test:
-machine 'ON' and disconnect J122
By putting 'enable' to GND. It should rotate bigfoot one way.
Put 'drv up/dn' also to GND and it will rotate the other way.

If this reacts the same way as in the test-menu, then U1 is #1 suspect.
Need to measure multiple components to be sure. Compare TIP102 Q1 and Q3 with each other. And Q2 with Q4.

A-15680 connect.jpgA-15680 connect.jpg

#4 8 years ago

Yes, same board, but all cleaned up (now that I purchased a WS51 and am no longer using a gun ). Would Q1 corrosion drop voltage in 1/2 to red side of motor? As I am getting full voltage to White side, would top (not in front of board so can't see label) TIP102 be a likely culprit? I am not smart enough to know what might drop voltage in 1/2 to one side. I'm assuming I have a burnt trace that I haven't found yet, or bad TIP102, but just don't know.

When you say "Compare TIP102 Q1 and Q3 with each other. And Q2 with Q4", how far apart before there is a problem?

Thanks,
Aaron

#5 8 years ago
Quoted from cincyITguy:

Would Q1 corrosion drop voltage in 1/2 to red side of motor?

The voltage you measure can also be a high frequency pulsing 12V and multimeter giving you an average of 6 Volts.
This IC is a comparator and may because of corrosion now on the threshold of On/Off. That is also the moment you notice something is wrong.

The only way to find out is put the PCB on power and measure the 4 exits of U1, with and without the inputs enabled.

Quoted from cincyITguy:

When you say "Compare TIP102 Q1 and Q3 with each other. And Q2 with Q4", how far apart before there is a problem?

If you measure a TIP102 with DMM in diode-mode, you will get readings like 450 to 650 mV. If something is wrong with the transistor, it will be more like 000 mV (short) or out of range (no conduction). Polarity does matter when taking measurements !

#6 8 years ago

Thanks I will give that a try tonight.

#7 8 years ago

Well, after lots of testing, ended up replacing U1. I also cleaned up my previous hacks and ran 2 nicer jumpers across burnt traces. Thanks for the assist as always, and hope that this thread helps someone else.

5 years later
#8 3 years ago

I know this is an old thread, but I have 2 boards with similar issues. On the original factory board, the capacitor spewed electrolyte over literally half the board. Multiple traces in that area were completely corroded away. I'm thinking that board is a loss. I then bought another board from someone who reported the head turns one way but not the other. I checked it over and found the cap had also leaked (what's the deal with that anyway?), but it was in a very contained area. On this board, there is minor corrosion on U1 and a few resistor pads. I removed the bad cap, scrubbed with board with alcohol, and replaced the cap. I installed the board and still see only counter clockwise works and not clockwise.

I didn't find any shorts on the TIP102s and TIP107s. Because U1 has corrosion, should I replace it as well?

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