Hi all,
Just could not pass this up. I bought this SO a week ago and just starting to get my head around it and hands on. Seems relatively original and intact minus pf glass but still rather dodgy at the same time. I'll post more pics as I go ...this is another project thread. 75940 plays on the meter btw.

I was warned it has been dead for awhile. Removed most of "extra" wiring and other obvious minor hacks.

I don't have the small card for fuse info on the fuse block just in front of the transformer.
Could some kind person please tell me what fuse sizes/type from top to bottom? There are 4 fuses in total here.

The coin box has a good assortment of blown and odd size agc fuses.
I'm looking forward to getting this up and running and eventually semi-restored ...no rush. My youngest daughter says this is her machine so she is helping with the rescue. Should be fun!

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Thanks guys. Super excited. Couldn't see how I could go wrong, ....
I've looked around for b/g and did get in touch with Shay. I like also what SteveFury did on his touch up to same some $. Our $ sux right now so I'd rather dump $ into the mechanicals and pf.

Since my wife just let me move it into the house, I have to keep it cool and inconspicuous for now
It lights up which is good but no hint of a restart sequence (the fuses need to get sorted out as logical first step)..I think?!

Every insert has sank into the pf so I think it will play like cr@p in its current form.

Thanks a lot for that link, I'd never heard of them until now.

If your machine is handy and you have a few minutes, could you please have a quick look or snap a pic of the front fuse block of 4 fuses closest to the coin door beside the transformer so I can see what size fuses I should have there?

From top to bottom, this is what is in the machine now for fuses:

20A 32v AGC
15A 32v AGC
10A 32v AGC (blown)
10A 32v AGC

I do not know if any of these are correct. Too bad the little card with fuse info is missing.

Thank you very much for this fuse info bflagg. Going to try and clean the credit stepper unit this morning and score reels, put some correct fuses in and see what happens then.

Thanks very much guys for the help and positive vibes.

It's funny how things work out in life. Steve, I had read your restore thread many times and watched your video also. I often thought what a cool looking game and if it played 1/2 as good as it looks, I'd like to have one eventually...

Fast fwd... I went to look at an old arcade operators stash of mainly newer expensive dmd games in storage to check out a high speed and there was the SO looking very sad and neglected. It apparently came in a package deal and the arcade operator never did see it working. I think I came away as the super cheap -ass who picked up the cr@p game destined as a coffee table/landfill ...oh well..

Did not get to anything yesterday on the machine. Still on the low profile with wifey. Will post full update later today on my findings.

Update. As usual, way longer than one thinks it will take time to do xx....
Got some time in on the ball count and credit units. Both gummed up and credit unit seemed to have a hot wire bonus to directly fire the coil to add a credit? The cam was messed up in position to zero also and did not decrement so I'm pretty sure this added grief to previous owners experience.

Good progress, but then I started to clean the match unit the top switch blade tab broke off. Darn! Advice on how I can scab a piece onto the blade? Replace blade? The yellow wire needs to get reconnected. I have never had this happen before in my limited experience. Here is a pic...tab on side of top blade broke off.

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Like SteveFurys machine the mechanicals seemed to receive some heavy lube...of what I'm not sure but not oil. Grease...like moly black auto grease.

But I should not be so hasty.....Is it normal to apply grease to the lobes of the score motor reels for example? Or inside the score reel ratchet mechanicals?

The machine does have mostly plastic coil sleeves, only come across 2 aluminum ones so far and I reused them as they and plungers are in real good shape. Very grimey and slow going, but encouraging to see no fried coils (yet) and step unit tracks not heavily grooved/worn.

The mechanicals will get sorted and all will be fine after I learn to rebuild this type of Williams score reels. 2 step units under the playfield also yet to do.

But this is what really takes the cake. I'm not at all confident with playfield touch ups and fixing holes. Guess I need to read Vids playfield thread for the next month or so!!

Was my machine built on a Monday morning or is this previous owner butchery? Or is this how one limits your drain lane size on EMs? Just fire a new screw and post in...golden!

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Just another in case your curious. Bottom half of playfield has a few ouchs for sure. Pics taken after just initial clean with alcohol. I plan to try Meguirs Plastx polish ....it seems like a very similar product to Novus 2. If your wondering why, it is because our Canadian tire store carries this product and I would have to order novus off the internet and Mail delivered. I thought it was worth a try for $10.

I don't understand why every single insert is concaved into the playfield. Same as my Atlantis of similar era. Where they once level and smooth or just they way there were/are?
Thanks!
John

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Thanks Stashy. That does makes sense with the constant heat over long periods of time. I'll search around for the fill with clear method info. I'll have to get the mechanicals all working and then shift gears to the playfield.

Ah ha! So there is supposed to be all those holes after all above the slingshots. Thank you very much for clearing that up ballsosteel. Also thanks DF for your Pf advice. It seems a long ways off right now. Guess I can start by shopping around and seeing what kind of inserts are available.

Getting faster on the disassemble and clean score reels. First one took awhile
I do like this score reel design better than the gottlieb Decagons...

Thanks again! But not 100% following you. Do you mean solder on a little tab? Or do you buy such a thing? Like the middle item in your picture? I don't have any spare switch blades or stacks so I have been trying to find a small piece of thin sheet copper locally to make a tab out of. A bit of a budget approach I know but being in the sticks in Canada a guy has to be resourceful.

Edit...I see johnsjukes has some generic switch blades with tabs on them I could cut to sizeable shape as needed and solder to the remnant piece. ?

Update:

A karma packet showed up in the mail today from a kind pinsider Cheers Mark!
I'm working on the match unit and my pics of disassembly of the switch stack are poor.
This was my first shot at reassembly with new switch blade but it does not make contact with the lower blade that rides on the plastic cam. I cannot tell if my spacing is correct with blades and Bakelite spacers, or if I just have to give the new blade a little tweak (downwards) so it makes contact.

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This is my second attempt. I removed the Bakelite spacer between the top switch blade and the 3/4 length one under it - so now they are together which makes more sense to me than the first pic, but....??

Spacing is off, too close to the lower blade and making constant contact and step unit does not advance well manually working it so .....deep breath......must quit for tonight and ask for advice.

I feel like a dolt for not taking a picture of the stack in one piece! Duh...

Taking this apart continuously is hard on the bits and very annoying (mad at myself).
Sorry for poor pic, holding all this and iPad to take decent pic is tricky.

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Super pic! Thanks!!
Was a good day today. Got the match unit back in place (in the right config as per pic). Was very happy to get that back in and soldered up as I asked myself for the 50th time..."why did I even mess with that?". Onto cleaning score reels - 1/2 way done now, another 4 to go - taking a month off +/- between the last time I was on these did not help. Then the back box is done and will be ready for a new backglass! Ordered today. Yahoo....no turning back now. It is officially a money pit. Might have to spring for a few boxes of 47s too <heh>
THEN the play field...
As bonus, received schematic and manuals from orig owner too!

What a great day!! Picked up 2 sheets of glass today....one of which is very special.

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It is beautiful artwork! I'm so happy to not only have sourced a replacement CPR back glass but also that it arrived out here yonder in one piece!!! Wow! Absolutely destroys the old glass in looks. I have my first wall-hanger.

Big shout out to Larry at Starship Fantasy for great packing and easy transaction. Woohoo

Simple question, but have any of you been in this situation where the black surround trim and also the stainless metal lift bar on the bottom of the back glass needs some kind of material to make up the difference in glass thickness? I'd say I need to make up at least 1/16 " ...the old glass had what looks like small strips of hockey tape to keep the black trim in place ...barely visible in pic below. How to keep black plastic trim and stainless trim on new thinner glass? Intial idea is small strips of foam tape?

Sorry in advance for the glare in the pics it has hard to get a good pic being so bright out and I did not want to move this glass around a lot fussing over a pic. Did I mention it is beautiful?!

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Thanks for the confirmation fellas. Was wondering if there was a specific trick out there, but hockey tape it is.

Lol...that is pretty cool! I saw that too.
I'd guess around $225 usd.
Have fun with it!