(Topic ID: 125527)

Another $200 Space Odyssey (rescue)


By BCpinhead

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 46 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by EM-PINMAN
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 15 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

image-834.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
image-550.jpg
image-243.jpg
image-257.jpg
image.jpg
wms_spaceodyssey4s.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
IMG_0076.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
tab.JPG

#1 4 years ago

Hi all,
Just could not pass this up. I bought this SO a week ago and just starting to get my head around it and hands on. Seems relatively original and intact minus pf glass but still rather dodgy at the same time. I'll post more pics as I go ...this is another project thread. 75940 plays on the meter btw.

I was warned it has been dead for awhile. Removed most of "extra" wiring and other obvious minor hacks.

I don't have the small card for fuse info on the fuse block just in front of the transformer.
Could some kind person please tell me what fuse sizes/type from top to bottom? There are 4 fuses in total here.

The coin box has a good assortment of blown and odd size agc fuses.
I'm looking forward to getting this up and running and eventually semi-restored ...no rush. My youngest daughter says this is her machine so she is helping with the rescue. Should be fun!

image.jpg image-257.jpg image-243.jpg image-550.jpg
#2 4 years ago

Fun game.

I thought only the English called things "dodgy." Didn't know Canadians did it too...

#3 4 years ago

Very nice, now if you could only get the bg remade.

#4 4 years ago

I have one, and had bought a very nice repo Bg. It was a couple years ago...but maybe Shay? One of the major suppliers anyway. I won't see it till next weekend, so I'll get that to you then if you still need it.

That's a nice looking machine and a heck of a deal. Made a boat load of those for a reason. Odyssey/Space Mission. Very fun game. Swinging target doesn't come into play as much as you'd think. More horseshoe and spinner shots. A lot of swinging target shots come straight back and down the drain, and the kickouts can usually hit the target for you.

Dave

Edit: yes, CPR

#5 4 years ago

CPR actually did a very nice job with the glass and Space Mission too. They sold out quickly, but I think they are still available from some pinball retailers like Marco (though may be gone there too by now)

#6 4 years ago

Thanks guys. Super excited. Couldn't see how I could go wrong, ....
I've looked around for b/g and did get in touch with Shay. I like also what SteveFury did on his touch up to same some $. Our $ sux right now so I'd rather dump $ into the mechanicals and pf.

Since my wife just let me move it into the house, I have to keep it cool and inconspicuous for now
It lights up which is good but no hint of a restart sequence (the fuses need to get sorted out as logical first step)..I think?!

Every insert has sank into the pf so I think it will play like cr@p in its current form.

#7 4 years ago

Nice pickup. I got one a couple months ago I need to get running. The backglass and plastics are available from Starship Fantasy. I picked up both from them at TPF to save on shipping.

http://www.starship-fantasy.com/backglasses/Space-Odyssey

#8 4 years ago
Quoted from bflagg:

Nice pickup. I got one a couple months ago I need to get running. The backglass and plastics are available from Starship Fantasy. I picked up both from them at TPF to save on shipping.
http://www.starship-fantasy.com/backglasses/Space-Odyssey

Thanks a lot for that link, I'd never heard of them until now.

If your machine is handy and you have a few minutes, could you please have a quick look or snap a pic of the front fuse block of 4 fuses closest to the coin door beside the transformer so I can see what size fuses I should have there?

#9 4 years ago

From top to bottom, this is what is in the machine now for fuses:

20A 32v AGC
15A 32v AGC
10A 32v AGC (blown)
10A 32v AGC

I do not know if any of these are correct. Too bad the little card with fuse info is missing.

#10 4 years ago

Mine is hard to read, but I checked the schematics. From top down

6v for lights - 15 amp
6v for lights - 15 amp
24v - 15 amp
24v - 10 amp

#11 4 years ago

Thank you very much for this fuse info bflagg. Going to try and clean the credit stepper unit this morning and score reels, put some correct fuses in and see what happens then.

#12 4 years ago

That's a really fun game. You got a great deal. I bought a Space Mission back to life over the winter. It was all pretty straightforward - the only part that gave me any real trouble was the match unit. It's a tiny little stepper in the head, with a pretty finicky and unreliable stepping mechanism. It has to work correctly, as it's responsible for triggering the Change relay (which lights the top rollovers each time the player scores 50, 500, or 5,000 points). Good luck!

#13 4 years ago

Something is different about these. I have 1 Williams (Space Odyssey) and 11 Gtb's. Now, I love my Gtb's, and drop targets, and wedgeheads blah blah blah...but when starting and playing Space Odyssey, it has that 'you just jumped into a Caddilac' feel. It's really noticeable to me. Not knocking Gtb, or comparing actual game play, it just has that 'feel'. It was my first pin, and has been bullet proof. My only issue is that I unknowingly bought mine with the match unit removed, so I have the issues described above. Have one arriving soon, and can't wait to get mine 100%.

#14 4 years ago

Congratulations on the SO.
I have a Space Mission (4 player odyssey).

I find the Space Mission/Odyssey has my favour for simply a walk-up and just play machine. I find when I am on last ball and way below the free game score... Then I go for advancing the target to get those special lights.

According to the Space Mission schematic (4 player version):
10a main fuse
15a (x2) Light fuse
15a solenoid bus fuse

If you want to be certain what fuse does what then unplug the machine, remove a fuse and power it back up again to see what doesn't work.

Under PF fuse:
10a Jet bumper fuse

I highly suggest you obtain a schematic if you don't have one.

I made a technical video of the Space Mission and many things will be identical to the Odyssey, if it will help:

#15 4 years ago

Thanks very much guys for the help and positive vibes.

It's funny how things work out in life. Steve, I had read your restore thread many times and watched your video also. I often thought what a cool looking game and if it played 1/2 as good as it looks, I'd like to have one eventually...

Fast fwd... I went to look at an old arcade operators stash of mainly newer expensive dmd games in storage to check out a high speed and there was the SO looking very sad and neglected. It apparently came in a package deal and the arcade operator never did see it working. I think I came away as the super cheap -ass who picked up the cr@p game destined as a coffee table/landfill ...oh well..

Did not get to anything yesterday on the machine. Still on the low profile with wifey. Will post full update later today on my findings.

#16 4 years ago

Update. As usual, way longer than one thinks it will take time to do xx....
Got some time in on the ball count and credit units. Both gummed up and credit unit seemed to have a hot wire bonus to directly fire the coil to add a credit? The cam was messed up in position to zero also and did not decrement so I'm pretty sure this added grief to previous owners experience.

Good progress, but then I started to clean the match unit the top switch blade tab broke off. Darn! Advice on how I can scab a piece onto the blade? Replace blade? The yellow wire needs to get reconnected. I have never had this happen before in my limited experience. Here is a pic...tab on side of top blade broke off.

image.jpg
#17 4 years ago

Like SteveFurys machine the mechanicals seemed to receive some heavy lube...of what I'm not sure but not oil. Grease...like moly black auto grease.

But I should not be so hasty.....Is it normal to apply grease to the lobes of the score motor reels for example? Or inside the score reel ratchet mechanicals?

The machine does have mostly plastic coil sleeves, only come across 2 aluminum ones so far and I reused them as they and plungers are in real good shape. Very grimey and slow going, but encouraging to see no fried coils (yet) and step unit tracks not heavily grooved/worn.

#18 4 years ago

The mechanicals will get sorted and all will be fine after I learn to rebuild this type of Williams score reels. 2 step units under the playfield also yet to do.

But this is what really takes the cake. I'm not at all confident with playfield touch ups and fixing holes. Guess I need to read Vids playfield thread for the next month or so!!

Was my machine built on a Monday morning or is this previous owner butchery? Or is this how one limits your drain lane size on EMs? Just fire a new screw and post in...golden!

image.jpg
#19 4 years ago

Just another in case your curious. Bottom half of playfield has a few ouchs for sure. Pics taken after just initial clean with alcohol. I plan to try Meguirs Plastx polish ....it seems like a very similar product to Novus 2. If your wondering why, it is because our Canadian tire store carries this product and I would have to order novus off the internet and Mail delivered. I thought it was worth a try for $10.

I don't understand why every single insert is concaved into the playfield. Same as my Atlantis of similar era. Where they once level and smooth or just they way there were/are?
Thanks!
John

image.jpg image-834.jpg
#20 4 years ago
Quoted from BCpinhead:

I don't understand why every single insert is concaved into the playfield. Same as my Atlantis of similar era. Where they once level and smooth or just they way there were/are?
Thanks!

While I can't back this up with scientific proof, I have read/heard that the plastic does two things. It actually shrinks (leaving a slight gap next to the wood) and also can sink in the middle from the repeated heat of #44 bulbs left on for many, many hours, creating a concave shape. Between the two, it really affects game play and ball wear at the edge of the inserts. If a game is worth investing time to restore, it's worth it to deal with the issue. Several approaches can be used, described in detail elsewhere, but either filling the low spot with clear or resetting the insert after flattening (can remove artwork). I use the fill with clear approach.

#21 4 years ago

Thanks Stashy. That does makes sense with the constant heat over long periods of time. I'll search around for the fill with clear method info. I'll have to get the mechanicals all working and then shift gears to the playfield.

#22 4 years ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

I use the fill with clear approach.

When you do that do you lock in the insert with epoxy from the back side?

#23 4 years ago

I can't prove it either, but I think the cupping is mostly caused by the glue successfully holding the outside edges of the inserts in place. So when they want to shrink, the edges don't let go, so they cup instead. I don't think bulb heat has anything to do with it (or very little).

This is primarily based on the observation that NOS playfields that have had no bulb heat exposure can still have cupped inserts. And that when the inserts are instead 'loose' (meaning the glue gave way, and the insert was able to sink, or rotate, or just fall out), they aren't cupped.

That's why I don't mind finding games with loose inserts, since there's a better chance that they won't be cupped. Sunken maybe, but not cupped.

Another option is to just pop them out and replace them with new. Gets more complicated when there are graphics to replace, but waterslide decals can manage that.

#24 4 years ago
Quoted from BCpinhead:

....
But this is what really takes the cake. I'm not at all confident with playfield touch ups and fixing holes. Guess I need to read Vids playfield thread for the next month or so!!
Was my machine built on a Monday morning or is this previous owner butchery? Or is this how one limits your drain lane size on EMs? Just fire a new screw and post in...golden!

image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

The post adjustment chart for the game will identify the hole closest to the switch as "conservative" and the far hole as "liberal". These holes were provided so operators could adjust the appetite of the outlanes and thereby control ball time.

If the screw doesn't hold well, adding some glue and toothpicks to the hole is allowed.

#25 4 years ago

Ah ha! So there is supposed to be all those holes after all above the slingshots. Thank you very much for clearing that up ballsosteel. Also thanks DF for your Pf advice. It seems a long ways off right now. Guess I can start by shopping around and seeing what kind of inserts are available.

Getting faster on the disassemble and clean score reels. First one took awhile
I do like this score reel design better than the gottlieb Decagons...

#26 4 years ago
Quoted from BCpinhead:

Update. ...
Good progress, but then I started to clean the match unit the top switch blade tab broke off. Darn! Advice on how I can scab a piece onto the blade? Replace blade? The yellow wire needs to get reconnected. I have never had this happen before in my limited experience. Here is a pic...tab on side of top blade broke off.

image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

Scab a tab.

tab.JPG

#27 4 years ago

Thanks again! But not 100% following you. Do you mean solder on a little tab? Or do you buy such a thing? Like the middle item in your picture? I don't have any spare switch blades or stacks so I have been trying to find a small piece of thin sheet copper locally to make a tab out of. A bit of a budget approach I know but being in the sticks in Canada a guy has to be resourceful.

Edit...I see johnsjukes has some generic switch blades with tabs on them I could cut to sizeable shape as needed and solder to the remnant piece. ?

#28 4 years ago

Yes, use a switch blade part that is already configured.

If you have a broken blade or tab you can layer on the part you need over the remaining switch parts to make continuity.

Pinball Resource sells blades and contact points (both regular and tungsten) that you peen to the appropriate hole in the generic blades. It would not surprise me that John's Jukes has these same parts you can buy. It will be much easier working with the correct parts.

If you were in the states it would be easy to just mail you a few replacement blades but Canada is "special" meaning difficult to ship/mail to.

Near the bottom of this web page from PBR are Switch Blades and Switch Contacts from which you can reproduce most any blade.

http://www.pbresource.com/pfswitch.htm

Good luck in your repair.

#29 4 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

I can't prove it either, but I think the cupping is mostly caused by the glue successfully holding the outside edges of the inserts in place. So when they want to shrink, the edges don't let go, so they cup instead. I don't think bulb heat has anything to do with it (or very little).
This is primarily based on the observation that NOS playfields that have had no bulb heat exposure can still have cupped inserts. And that when the inserts are instead 'loose' (meaning the glue gave way, and the insert was able to sink, or rotate, or just fall out), they aren't cupped.
That's why I don't mind finding games with loose inserts, since there's a better chance that they won't be cupped. Sunken maybe, but not cupped.
Another option is to just pop them out and replace them with new. Gets more complicated when there are graphics to replace, but waterslide decals can manage that.

I think you are on to something there DF, I just parted a Royal Flush body (picked up at A-Town recently) As usual with 1976 Gottlieb games, the inserts were all loose. Popped them right out without any effort (two missing also!) After examining them, they do seem to be pretty flat, as opposed to cupped. Would be interesting to figure out the physics/forces involved in the distortion/cupping of the inserts. And yes, I have seen NOS fields with the same issues. Another reason, I will still fill those to flatten the whole thing. To answer another post question, I would check them all to make sure they are secure before filling, I have had some flex the clear coat afterward when they are not 100% secure. I did a 1976 Bank Shot that I re-glued all inserts and they stayed in place much better than games that I left as is.

2 weeks later
#30 4 years ago

Update:

A karma packet showed up in the mail today from a kind pinsider Cheers Mark!
I'm working on the match unit and my pics of disassembly of the switch stack are poor.
This was my first shot at reassembly with new switch blade but it does not make contact with the lower blade that rides on the plastic cam. I cannot tell if my spacing is correct with blades and Bakelite spacers, or if I just have to give the new blade a little tweak (downwards) so it makes contact.

image.jpg
#31 4 years ago

This is my second attempt. I removed the Bakelite spacer between the top switch blade and the 3/4 length one under it - so now they are together which makes more sense to me than the first pic, but....??

Spacing is off, too close to the lower blade and making constant contact and step unit does not advance well manually working it so .....deep breath......must quit for tonight and ask for advice.

I feel like a dolt for not taking a picture of the stack in one piece! Duh...

Taking this apart continuously is hard on the bits and very annoying (mad at myself).
Sorry for poor pic, holding all this and iPad to take decent pic is tricky.

image.jpg
#32 4 years ago

Big stack of Bakelite > curved switch leaf > single thick spacer > damper leaf > broken switch leaf > repair tab > thin spacer > slotted end piece.

IMG_0076.jpg

Might need some adjusting after all that surgery..

#33 4 years ago

Super pic! Thanks!!
Was a good day today. Got the match unit back in place (in the right config as per pic). Was very happy to get that back in and soldered up as I asked myself for the 50th time..."why did I even mess with that?". Onto cleaning score reels - 1/2 way done now, another 4 to go - taking a month off +/- between the last time I was on these did not help. Then the back box is done and will be ready for a new backglass! Ordered today. Yahoo....no turning back now. It is officially a money pit. Might have to spring for a few boxes of 47s too <heh>
THEN the play field...
As bonus, received schematic and manuals from orig owner too!

1 week later
#34 3 years ago

What a great day!! Picked up 2 sheets of glass today....one of which is very special.

image.jpg
#35 3 years ago

It is beautiful artwork! I'm so happy to not only have sourced a replacement CPR back glass but also that it arrived out here yonder in one piece!!! Wow! Absolutely destroys the old glass in looks. I have my first wall-hanger.

Big shout out to Larry at Starship Fantasy for great packing and easy transaction. Woohoo

Simple question, but have any of you been in this situation where the black surround trim and also the stainless metal lift bar on the bottom of the back glass needs some kind of material to make up the difference in glass thickness? I'd say I need to make up at least 1/16 " ...the old glass had what looks like small strips of hockey tape to keep the black trim in place ...barely visible in pic below. How to keep black plastic trim and stainless trim on new thinner glass? Intial idea is small strips of foam tape?

Sorry in advance for the glare in the pics it has hard to get a good pic being so bright out and I did not want to move this glass around a lot fussing over a pic. Did I mention it is beautiful?!

image.jpg

#36 3 years ago
Quoted from BCpinhead:

Simple question, but have any of you been in this situation where the black surround trim and also the stainless metal lift bar on the bottom of the back glass needs some kind of material to make up the difference in glass thickness? I'd say I need to make up at least 1/16 " ...the old glass had what looks like small strips of hockey tape to keep the black trim in place ...barely visible in pic below. How to keep black plastic trim and stainless trim on new thinner glass? Intial idea is small strips of foam tape?

I'd go with the hockey/grip tape approach. If you need two or three or four layers to get the build up, so be it.

#37 3 years ago

I use "Friction Tape" made by 3M which is like a cloth electrical tape and available at Home Depot or Lowe's.

Ken

#38 3 years ago

Thanks for the confirmation fellas. Was wondering if there was a specific trick out there, but hockey tape it is.

#39 3 years ago

I asked the same question & Vid said friction tape.....

2 weeks later
#40 3 years ago

I saw bgresto.com restores backglasses... I think im going to be different & have him do mine like this Ren & Stimpy version. I didn't see prices... Does anyone know what he charges? Thanks

wms_spaceodyssey4s.jpg
#41 3 years ago

Lol...that is pretty cool! I saw that too.
I'd guess around $225 usd.
Have fun with it!

#42 3 years ago

Ok thanks.... I'd pay that. I email him but still no response. Is he still doing backglasses?

#43 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Ok thanks.... I'd pay that. I email him but still no response. Is he still doing backglasses?

Yep. Steve is just slow getting back to folks if he is working out of town as this is a side business. Be patient, try again in a week if no answer.

Ken

#44 3 years ago

They got back to me last week about my Target Pool back glass. $195USD + $65 shipping cost.
I am sure his product is top-notch but not sure if I am willing to sink +2x the initial cost of my project into a glass. I guess we'll see.

#45 3 years ago
Quoted from SteveFury:

$195USD + $65 shipping cost.

Worth every penny since you plan to keep this pin for the rest of your life.

#46 3 years ago
Quoted from Rat_Tomago:

Worth every penny since you plan to keep this pin for the rest of your life.

Yea, but I bet Steve can fix the original glass and make it look really nice too. He did a great job with the Singapore one. For Steve to give up the ghost on some part of a project means that it is "Truly Shot", so I guess we will see with the Target Pool Backglass.

Ken

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 55.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos
$ 45.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos
$ 45.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos
$ 399.95
$ 7.65
Cabinet Parts
Third Coast Pinball
$ 8.00
Cabinet Parts
RPGCor
$ 15.00
Cabinet - Decals
ModFather Pinball Mods
$ 89.99
Lighting - Led
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 64.00
From: $ 6,499.00
Pinball Machine
Great American Pinball
$ 26.95
Playfield - Protection
ULEKstore
$ 89.99
Lighting - Led
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 25.00
$ 6.00
Playfield - Protection
Pin Monk
$ 24.00
Playfield - Other
Pin Monk
$ 8,999.00
Pinball Machine
Classic Game Rooms

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside