Announcing new product to help resolve resets in WPC era games

(Topic ID: 83912)

Announcing new product to help resolve resets in WPC era games


By rkahr

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 455 posts
  • 180 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 41 days ago by ChrisPINk25
  • Topic is favorited by 159 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 10 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_1613 (resized).JPG
2017Pro (resized).jpg
51qC8kySRIL_(resized).jpg
Photo Oct 03, 6 00 31 PM.jpg
Daughterboard schematics (2).JPG
Photo Aug 19, 9 31 15 PM.jpg
LM323 Replacement Board in action.JPG
LM323 Replacement Board.JPG
Slide1.jpg
image-763.jpg

There are 455 posts in this topic. You are on page 9 of 10.
#401 2 years ago
Quoted from Nighthawk128:

Just a FYI, after 1 year of resets in Getaway, from the Pinwiki guide on reset and I have to admit I targeted header pins first, etc. What I failed to look at until I went through the Pinwiki list a few times to see if I missed something. Turns out I did and no-one really talks about this. The plug... the friggin plug!
Standard 6' PC cable, the old one was brass but had to scrape the black off to see the brass. Just look at your prongs that should and would be step #1 in troubleshooting then work up the cable from there down the list.
This board is cool but in reality my resets DID indeed indicate there was a bottleneck in power supply.
Edit: It's been a week, no resets, bridges and the 5V regulator seem to run cooler, I can actually touch them for a few seconds comfortably instead of a microsecond.

CoinOp Cauldron now recommends that you replace the ICD connectors at J101, J115, J120, and J121 with Molex-style Trifurcon connectors to prevent this type of thing. The heat in those areas not only takes out the headers but it also tarnishes the connectors and reduces their efficiency. So CoinOp replaces the headers with ones that have a higher heat tolerance and recommends doing the same for the connectors to prevent the oxidation your talking about.

1 month later
#402 1 year ago

Thanks Rob. Stuck the part in today and fixed my TAF!

#403 1 year ago
Quoted from Dahawk007:

Thanks Rob. Stuck the part in today and fixed my TAF!

... Ok but your not done yet

#404 1 year ago
Quoted from Dahawk007:

Thanks Rob. Stuck the part in today and fixed my TAF!

Glad it's working - never get tired of success stories! I was at The York Show for the last few days where I heard many more success reports.

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Williams system 3-7 sound board potentiometer solutions

2 weeks later
#405 1 year ago

Just wanted to come give Kahr another thumbs up from me. My TAF started getting all sorts of silly. I have a variable voltage regulator on my power driver board, and no matter how many times I adjusted it, after 2-3 games - reset city.

I installed one of his daughter boards on a whim - BAM - no problems for almost half an hour. So good to finally just be able to play and enjoy my TAF.

I am doing my homework on PinWiki for 5V problems, and poor WeirPinball will have to put up with me begging to come use his desolder gun for replacing all my male and female pins, capacitors, BRs, thermistors, transformer pins, and other such goodies, but for now, I'm going to play and enjoy my TAF. Been dealing with this for 2-3 months, and now I can just play and enjoy my game - at last.

Thanks, Kahr!!! I ordered a couple more for AFM and my new DM - just in case!

#406 1 year ago
Quoted from NPO:

Just wanted to come give Kahr another thumbs up from me. My TAF started getting all sorts of silly. I have a variable voltage regulator on my power driver board, and no matter how many times I adjusted it, after 2-3 games - reset city.
I installed one of his daughter boards on a whim - BAM - no problems for almost half an hour. So good to finally just be able to play and enjoy my TAF.
I am doing my homework on PinWiki for 5V problems, and poor WeirPinball will have to put up with me begging to come use his desolder gun for replacing all my male and female pins, capacitors, BRs, thermistors, transformer pins, and other such goodies, but for now, I'm going to play and enjoy my TAF. Been dealing with this for 2-3 months, and now I can just play and enjoy my game - at last.
Thanks, Kahr!!! I ordered a couple more for AFM and my new DM - just in case!

That's good news, NPO. And it's a good to put them in your other machines before the reset symptom develops... the rebalancing of loads across the 5 and 12 volt supplies is just better for the PDB.

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my pinball 2000 H+V video sync combiner kit

#407 1 year ago

I'm proud to reveal that KAHR.US Circuits is a gold-level sponsor of TPF in 2017! I couldn't get in the hotel (I'm in the H2 down the street again this year) but I had a great time at the last two shows and I'm looking forward to March already. My little 130x130 pixel graphic was just added to the sponsor section of the Texaspinball.com home page today...

If you've ever considered traveling to a show, I highly recommend TPF.

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Pinball 2000 H+V video sync combiner kit

2 weeks later
#408 1 year ago
Quoted from rkahr:

I'm proud to reveal that KAHR.US Circuits is a gold-level sponsor of TPF in 2017! I couldn't get in the hotel (I'm in the H2 down the street again this year) but I had a great time at the last two shows and I'm looking forward to March already. My little 130x130 pixel graphic was just added to the sponsor section of the Texaspinball.com home page today...
If you've ever considered traveling to a show, I highly recommend TPF.
-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Pinball 2000 H+V video sync combiner kit

Congratulations, Rob! I wanted to chime in that your board has *also* fixed my TAF, going on several months now. My CFTBL is now exhibiting the reset issue and I'll be ordering a daughterboard for that as well as my TZ as a precaution... Do you deliver?

#409 1 year ago

Deliver? Well, I did deliver one to a customer in Austin, TX once but that was a bit of an exception. A couple of folks have come and picked them up... when they do I invite them in to play a few games while they are here. There's a reasonable chance I'll be watching the Penn State game at Carpool Saturday night. PM me if you'd rather pick up.

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Williams system 3-7 sound board potentiometer solutions

1 month later
#410 1 year ago

OK. Silly question. (More of a verification than anything else.)

I am thinking that this board may solve my current issue with my Theatre of Magic resetting.

I have a number of mods on my TOM. LEDs everywhere (which should be a benefit power wise), but also some "always on" LED strip lights in a couple of spots (connected to J118), ColorDMD, animated Tiger saw and marquee), and everything runs PERFECTLY fine. no resets what-so-ever... Until.....

I added a Pinduino kit. The game will run for varying lengths of time and then BAM.... Reset. Only with the Pinduino connected. Sometimes I can go 5-10 minutes without a reset, other times only a minute or two. Everything seems to be working fine right up until the reset.

I have been working on a restore (plus brass plating) of my TOM and it was out of commission for 4 months. I finally got the last pieces of brass back and installed just 2 days ago and we had a Christmas party last night. People complained about it a lot, but not until towards the end of the night. Then I read elsewhere that holding down both flippers can cause this for some people. Thinking back, with those playing last night being new (or newer) to pinballs, they tend to hit both flippers at the same time, thus the reason it took me a lot longer to replicate it. I didn't read that "both flippers" thing until this morning when I got to work, so I couldn't test it. I was focusing on things like the trunk moving and magnets turning on, but I wonder if those are driven by the 12V and not the 5V as they seemed to have no impact on when things reset.

I played 6 games last night after everyone left. 2 games with everything connected, and I got resets both times. 2 games with the Pinduino disconnected, and got NO resets. 1 more game with the Pinduino back in the mix and sure enough, reset after about 3 balls. Then 1 final game with the Pinduino disconnected and no problems.

So to me, it just seems like I am over-taxing the 5V supply to the extra lights and such? I was tipped off my lyonsden to check out this "power fix" as a possible solution, but I just wanted to run it past those of you here that have one or maybe knows more about it just to confirm before I just drop money at the problem (even though it isn't much).

I don't think that the Pinduino is at fault, just that I am tapping too much off of that 5V under certain situations in gameplay.

Thoughts on if people think that this little gem of a "power fix" will actually fix my particular power situation? Thanks!

#411 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

OK. Silly question. (More of a verification than anything else.)
I am thinking that this board may solve my current issue with my Theatre of Magic resetting.
I have a number of mods on my TOM. LEDs everywhere (which should be a benefit power wise), but also some "always on" LED strip lights in a couple of spots (connected to J118), ColorDMD, animated Tiger saw and marquee), and everything runs PERFECTLY fine. no resets what-so-ever... Until.....
I added a Pinduino kit. The game will run for varying lengths of time and then BAM.... Reset. Only with the Pinduino connected. Sometimes I can go 5-10 minutes without a reset, other times only a minute or two. Everything seems to be working fine right up until the reset.
I have been working on a restore (plus brass plating) of my TOM and it was out of commission for 4 months. I finally got the last pieces of brass back and installed just 2 days ago and we had a Christmas party last night. People complained about it a lot, but not until towards the end of the night. Then I read elsewhere that holding down both flippers can cause this for some people. Thinking back, with those playing last night being new (or newer) to pinballs, they tend to hit both flippers at the same time, thus the reason it took me a lot longer to replicate it. I didn't read that "both flippers" thing until this morning when I got to work, so I couldn't test it. I was focusing on things like the trunk moving and magnets turning on, but I wonder if those are driven by the 12V and not the 5V as they seemed to have no impact on when things reset.
I played 6 games last night after everyone left. 2 games with everything connected, and I got resets both times. 2 games with the Pinduino disconnected, and got NO resets. 1 more game with the Pinduino back in the mix and sure enough, reset after about 3 balls. Then 1 final game with the Pinduino disconnected and no problems.
So to me, it just seems like I am over-taxing the 5V supply to the extra lights and such? I was tipped off my lyonsden to check out this "power fix" as a possible solution, but I just wanted to run it past those of you here that have one or maybe knows more about it just to confirm before I just drop money at the problem (even though it isn't much).
I don't think that the Pinduino is at fault, just that I am tapping too much off of that 5V under certain situations in gameplay.
Thoughts on if people think that this little gem of a "power fix" will actually fix my particular power situation? Thanks!

I remember dealing with a relatively same issue as you are describing with my TAF. Mine is modded pretty heavily, and I added a ColorDMD. Once I did that, I started getting completely random resets. I had gauges on my voltage test points, and I was constantly dipping below 5v. I had a variable voltage regulator that I could adjust my voltage back to 5v, but inevitably, it would dip back below and resets would occur.

I wiped the slate clean and ordered a new Rottendog power supply board. Been fine ever since.

#412 1 year ago
Quoted from NPO:

I remember dealing with a relatively same issue as you are describing with my TAF. Mine is modded pretty heavily, and I added a ColorDMD. Once I did that, I started getting completely random resets. I had gauges on my voltage test points, and I was constantly dipping below 5v. I had a variable voltage regulator that I could adjust my voltage back to 5v, but inevitably, it would dip back below and resets would occur.
I wiped the slate clean and ordered a new Rottendog power supply board. Been fine ever since.

Yeah, but what does that cost? Like $300 I think.... Eek...

#413 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Yeah, but what does that cost? Like $300 I think.... Eek...

Depends on the angle you see it from.

To me, $300 is well worth the peace of mind. Knowing my game has a nice brand new upgraded board instead of a 22 year old piece of hardware is very re-assuring. I mean, 22 years, that's older than some members here on Pinside. It's not money wasted, that's for sure.

As well, when you replace your board, you can sell your old one here. Depending on how you fare, you can get $100-$125 for it, so now that brand new board costs about $175.

I have a brand new Rottendog power driver board for my AFM that just came in today. When I put up my old board, watch me sell it and recoup some of my money...

Finally, based on the mods you have described to your game, is $175 - after your old board sells - really THAT much given that a ColorDMD is $400?

Just some food for thought...!

#414 1 year ago

Yeah but with the mods that just went in this year alone, plus Christmas, my "financial advisor" (wife) is not going to let me drop $300 (or even $175 if I resell the original board) any time soon on something that *might* be fixable for $40. I do appreciate your perspective on it though. I would really be looking this route if I was having issues with just a stock game or one with a basic mod or two that was having troubles, but what this tells me is that my 22 year old board is still in good shape (for now anyway) and it is the 5V watchdog circuitry is just kicking in from the amount of stuff it is being asked to power. I agree with you 100% that replacing the whole board for $300 minus original board resale would solve the issue. It just seems like there may be another option since the board seems healthy at this point.

So that being said, does anyone have any thoughts on if this little Kahr board will in fact prevent my resets? I have 1 person elsewhere saying yes, and I have the (greatly appreciated) insight from NPO above. Just wanting to see if I can resolve it for $40 (or $30 with the cheaper board)... Then if my power board goes out down the road, I can tackle that larger expense then and put in a replacement board (granted with little to know resale value on the original), but not have that larger expense until it is truly needed.

#415 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Yeah but with the mods that just went in this year alone, plus Christmas, my "financial advisor" (wife) is not going to let me drop $300 (or even $175 if I resell the original board) any time soon on something that *might* be fixable for $40. I do appreciate your perspective on it though. I would really be looking this route if I was having issues with just a stock game or one with a basic mod or two that was having troubles, but what this tells me is that my 22 year old board is still in good shape (for now anyway) and it is the 5V watchdog circuitry is just kicking in from the amount of stuff it is being asked to power. I agree with you 100% that replacing the whole board for $300 minus original board resale would solve the issue. It just seems like there may be another option since the board seems healthy at this point.
So that being said, does anyone have any thoughts on if this little Kahr board will in fact prevent my resets? I have 1 person elsewhere saying yes, and I have the (greatly appreciated) insight from NPO above. Just wanting to see if I can resolve it for $40 (or $30 with the cheaper board)... Then if my power board goes out down the road, I can tackle that larger expense then and put in a replacement board (granted with little to know resale value on the original), but not have that larger expense until it is truly needed.

My bad, I was under the impression that you already HAD the Kahr Board installed. My particular scenario was with the Kahr board installed, I still was having reset issues. My bad, bud.

That being said, yes, absolutely try the lil' board first. No reason to go $300+ yet.

#416 1 year ago
Quoted from NPO:

My bad, I was under the impression that you already HAD the Kahr Board installed. My particular scenario was with the Kahr board installed, I still was having reset issues. My bad, bud.
That being said, yes, absolutely try the lil' board first. No reason to go $300+ yet.

No worries at all. Sometimes I get a little long winded in my posts and my actual situation/question can get lost.

Just ordered the $39 version. That way I have some monitoring in case things start to turn south down the road.

Thanks.

#417 1 year ago

Got the pro version today and it seems to have resolved my reset issue from having a lot of lights and mods on the 5V.... YAY! Managed to play 4 games without a single reset and with all of the bells and whistles running.

#418 1 year ago

Just a reminder to check/clean/reseat the stupid Z connector between the boards while you are working on reset issues.
Use sandpaper or something else to shine up the pins. Even tarnish on the connectors can cause all kinds of voltage loss even if everything else is working fine.

#419 1 year ago

Excellent!

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Pinball 2000 H+V video sync combiner kit

#420 1 year ago

Today I'm excited to announce I've enhanced the monitoring indications in the Pro Daughterboard. New for 2017 all Pro Daughterboards provide indication for:

1. Startup conditions: The 12 volt digital supply must surpass 10 volt and 5 volt supply must surpass 4.7 volt before the steady-state green light illuminates.

2. Steady state: Just as before, Green is good.

3. Monitoring Indications: Just as before, all indications latch so you don't have to watch the daughterboard while it works. There are now 8 different indication patterns informing you of multiple combinations of (a) high voltage peaks and low voltage sags on the the 5 volt line and of (b) low voltage on the 12 volt digital supply. This graphic details the indications:

2017Pro (resized).jpg

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Pinball 2000 H+V video sync adapter kit

#421 1 year ago

I guess I should have waited a few days and gotten the 2017 version. LOL

#422 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

I guess I should have waited a few days and gotten the 2017 version

Yeah, me too! My order just shipped a couple of days ago. I sure would have waited so as to get this newer version.
Just my luck!!!

Mike in Kentucky

#423 1 year ago
Quoted from Pintucky:

Just my luck!!!

Your luck isn't that bad - bring it to one of the pinball shows I attend and have it upgraded. Anybody with one of the 493 Pros I shipped in 2016 can get the upgrade for $10 at a show. If your board has a (C) 2016 on it I can upgrade it. First show I'm attending this year is TPF in March! I'll also be at Allentown and York; maybe at Northwest and/or Expo.

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Pinball 2000 H+V video sync adapter kit

#424 1 year ago

both my orders are in 2015. d0h!

Thx for continuing to evolve this product Rob. The 12V monitoring and LED setup is so slick.

#425 1 year ago
Quoted from rkahr:

Your luck isn't that bad - bring it to one of the pinball shows I attend and have it upgraded. Anybody with one of the 493 Pros I shipped in 2016 can get the upgrade for $10 at a show. If your board has a (C) 2016 on it I can upgrade it. First show I'm attending this year is TPF in March! I'll also be at Allentown and York; maybe at Northwest and/or Expo.
-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Pinball 2000 H+V video sync adapter kit

Thanks for the offer, but 25% (even if it is just $10) for something that I got and installed literally 4 days ago isn't great luck.

It's OK. The board should continue to do what I need it to for a long time and allows my Theatre of Magic to run with all of the mods perfectly.

1 week later
#426 1 year ago

Hey Pinside check it out - I just uploaded a video demonstrating the LED notifications in the new 2017 software:

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Williams system 3-7 sound board potentiometer solutions

1 week later
#427 1 year ago

Hello,

I just received the Pro Daughter board. I tried it on my TS. This machine never had any type of reset problem, ever. Just testing, really. After few seconds from switching the machine on, both the red and blue led lights up. Why is that? I have a led stripe and extra flasher mod installed, maybe it depends from that?

#428 1 year ago

Just ordered 2 of these boards, I look forward to trying them out.

#429 1 year ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Hello,
I just received the Pro Daughter board. I tried it on my TS. This machine never had any type of reset problem, ever. Just testing, really. After few seconds from switching the machine on, both the red and blue led lights up. Why is that? I have a led stripe and extra flasher mod installed, maybe it depends from that?

You see, how perfect the RKahr board does its job.

It only shows, that your voltages already are at their limits, nearly at a point, that a reset can happen, but a bit above that point, that there is still no reset.

I never understood, how anybody can connect modifications to the within week voltages of the PDB.

#430 1 year ago
Quoted from Luppin:

After few seconds from switching the machine on, both the red and blue led lights up. Why is that? I have a led stripe and extra flasher mod installed, maybe it depends from that?

You could be in the startup state indicating red & blue, or you could be in the voltage error state indicating red and blue. Is your Daughterboard indicating green at least momentarily? If you never see green, your 12 volt is not getting as high as 10 volt and thus the 5 volt monitoring has not yet begun. So, in this case focus on the 12 volt line... your 12 volt line can't get enough power to rise to full voltage and that could well be a symptom of extra load from mods... more on the 18v to 12v derivation in a moment.

If you do see some green, your machine gets past the startup conditions I describe in the video linked in post # 426 above and/or in the picture in post # 420.

Startup state or error indication, if the extra flasher is driven by the 18 volt line it probably is contributing to the blue light because the 12 volt digital is derived from that 18 volt line meaning both the flashers and the 12 volt are loads competing for power. A non-stable 12 volt line won't cause a reset in WPC because it isn't monitored by the MPU. In fact, it is only lightly used throughout the machine (sound board uses it, zero cross circuitry uses it) but those consumers can fail if the voltage isn't present. Net-net, you are seeing an indication about the 12 volt supply where you previously had less (or perhaps no) insight.

As for the red light, if you never got through the startup states the daughterboard never turned it off and started monitoring the 5 volt line. If you did get past the startup state the 5 volt line did reach full voltage and then drop into the reset range... but remember the MPU's under voltage sensor had a pretty wide tolerance for when it would trigger (reset) so some MPUs won't reset at voltage levels that others will. The Daughterboard is more precise in it's trigger level than the MPU and it indicates red just below the midpoint of the MPU's trigger range. It's therefore feasible your MPU has a trigger point that is at a lower voltage level than the Daughterboard's threshold and thus shows you red even though you've not experienced reset symptoms in the past. The red is the first of two tiered low voltage indications so if you're not seeing flashing red your 5 volt isn't going severely low.

Check your Daughterboard readings regularly and over time use the indications to help you decide when/whether to perform power supply maintenance.

Feel free to PM me if you need additional details... PMs hit my inbox and therefore I see them more quickly.

BTW, German-pinball is right (assuming the statement isn't sarcastic...) - the Daughterboard does indication well. But it also does a great job of rebalancing power demand across available power supplies in the WPC pinball machine. This is good for the long-term health of the supplies.

Non-USA customers - recently I quietly retired the overseas pricing tier because it seemed to penalize those who ordered multiple boards at the same time. Boards are now consistently priced for everybody and Paypal helps figure out appropriate international postage. As an example, Superpinball, your order would have been $5 US more expensive under the old structure.

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Williams system 3-7 sound board potentiometer solutions

#431 1 year ago
Quoted from rkahr:

Non-USA customers - recently I quietly retired the overseas pricing tier because it seemed to penalize those who ordered multiple boards at the same time. Boards are now consistently priced for everybody and Paypal helps figure out appropriate international postage. As an example, Superpinball, your order would have been $5 US more expensive under the old structure.

Alright!!! I finally got a discount at least once in my life.

#432 1 year ago
Quoted from rkahr:

...
BTW, German-pinball is right (assuming the statement isn't sarcastic...) - the Daughterboard does indication well. But it also does a great job of rebalancing power demand across available power supplies in the WPC pinball machine. This is good for the long-term health of the supplies. ...

My statement was absolutely not meant sarcastic in any way - why should I be sarcastic?

I wanted to praise your board, that it does not only solve the reset problems, but now also is a perfect diagnostic tool in the newest version. PERFECT done job.

And your documentation is incredible good as always.

I will order a board next month too.

PS.:
Rebalancing the power in WPC-machines could be further improoved, when people would replace Diodes D1 and D2 on the PDB by jumper wires or zero-ohm-resistors.
Diodes D1 and D2 are imho a design fault by Bally/WMS. These 2 diodes are not only superfluous but damaging; so they should be replaced with jumper-wires or zero-ohm-resistors.
I have written something here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tom-unstable-12v-regulated-voltage#post-2749920

#433 1 year ago

German-Pinball, thank you for linking your diode suggestion to your most recent post - it is flat out genius to eliminate the unnecessary voltage drop across those diodes. Despite you having originally posted it a year ago I've never seen it before today. I've quoted it in the top of this post to highlight it for other readers. For anyone somewhat timid with the soldering iron, a jumper wire can be soldered to the diode leads to jumper it out of the circuit without having to risk board damage in the desolder operation. If unable to solder (at a show, a tournament, or just don't have the skill), one could even use an alligator lead to jumper from the high side of the first diode to the low side of the second diode... just use a good one - you don't want it to ever slip loose and dangle around inside the backbox live with ~18 volts on it.

The only potential downside one could investigate for driving higher voltage into the LM7812 would be additional heat that would need expelled through it's heat sink, but I've done multiple temperature measurements on that heat sink through the years and it does not get hot - it's got plenty of extra dissipation capacity. In some of my machines I've replaced the 7812 with a switching regulator equivalent... and that doesn't even need a heat sink. Less heat loss means less load on the supply...

Thanks again, German-Pinball!

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Williams system 3-7 sound board potentiometer solutions

1 week later
#434 1 year ago

I just purchased the daughterboard in hopes that it will keep my CFTBL from resetting. My game room has been sitting under covers for several years (sad, I know) because we needed to consolidate another household of boxes.
My wife was recentlymdiagnosed with cancer and drug costs being what they are, we need to sell everything.
My hope was to dig the machines out, boot them up, (play a few games), and sell them off.

My question is this. Will having this daughterboard on the machine be a welcome addition to a buyer or will it be suspect and potentially lose me cash on a sale? The machine is otherwise in great shape! Clean, all plastics in great shape, etc...

She had one drug added to her chemo last week that cost us $4986. One. Dose.

Any guidance is greatly appreciated!

~Jo

#435 1 year ago

Personally, I feel the $30 investment is good insurance to remedy most any reset issues. Even lurking ones that might not show up in your home, but maybe the new buyer's home.

It's plug and play and instantly removable if the buyer decides they don't like it for some reason.

I see no need to get the super fancy one. Just the standard unit is all you need.

#436 1 year ago
Quoted from topaward:

...
My question is this. Will having this daughterboard on the machine be a welcome addition to a buyer or will it be suspect and potentially lose me cash on a sale? The machine is otherwise in great shape! Clean, all plastics in great shape, etc...
...

I think it is highly dependent on the buyer.

Buyer A might say: Game is working perfectly, I'm happy. Here's the money.
Buyer B might say: Yeah, I understand then game is playing perfectly but but it's not working perfectly. There is some driver board issue, or interconnect, that is being masked by the (very cool) rkahr circuit. As such, value is reduced by whatever estimated repair is needed

Just my two cents.

... Altan

#437 1 year ago
Quoted from altan:

Buyer A might say: Game is working perfectly, I'm happy. Here's the money.
Buyer B might say: Yeah, I understand then game is playing perfectly but but it's not working perfectly. There is some driver board issue, or interconnect, that is being masked by the (very cool) rkahr circuit. As such, value is reduced by whatever estimated repair is needed

Well said. Also note that pretty much any WPC era game's "for sale" listing likely generates sufficient traffic that you should't have any problem finding somebody from the 'Buyer A' set.

Multiple times at shows I've had people buy a daughterboard for a machine that is resetting at the show but has never previously reset. Game sales happen at shows and the daughterboard ends up in the hands of the machine's new owner that same day. I've explained the value of rebalancing loads across available power supplies to these "second-hand" owners and they consistently seem satisfied in the end.

Both buyer sets exist; my guess is set A > set B.

-Rob
-visit me at TPF! or at http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Pinball 2000 H+V video sync combiner kit

4 weeks later
#438 1 year ago

Anybody with one of the WPC Power Fix PRO Daughterboard with the (C)2016 printed on the circuit board can bring it to the Texas Pinball Festival and get the upgrade to the latest monitoring software for $10. If your board is the Pro version and it has a (C) 2016 on it I can upgrade it. Simply bring it to my vendor booth!

See you in Texas...

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Pinball 2000 H+V video sync adapter kit

2 weeks later
#439 1 year ago

Posted in the TPF thread too, but I'm all packed and ready for TPF! Here's what my booth will look like:

Kahr in Texas 2017

Just a quick reminder to bring your 2016 edition Pro daughterboards if you want the $10 upgrade to the 2017 monitoring software.

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Pinball 2000 H+V video sync adapter kit

3 months later
#440 1 year ago

Hey all - I'm a sponsor of the Bat City Open! If you're in Austin check it out... details of the event in this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/events/bat-city-open-2017

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Pinball 2000 H+V video sync adapter kit

4 weeks later
#441 1 year ago

Just ordered the pro version for my DW. It has always been a little flaky when all my other games are on, but lately it has started doing "double flip" resets.

I've got a hakko desoldering gun, caps, etc, but this is well worth the time and effort if it solves the problem. I'll report back!

#442 1 year ago

Got the pro version for my RS. No more resets! Lit red, but I'll go with it until I gotta replace caps. Great product, thanks Rob!

2 months later
#443 11 months ago

I just used my back up board so I'll be ordering more. They have really saved the day and keep my games on route going!

#444 11 months ago

Hey - I'm going to John Dayhuff's pinball party on Nov. 4 in Battle Creek, MI. If you can find your way there be sure to say hi... and I'll have some daughterboards with me if anyone wants to buy one in person. The details about John's party are here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dayhuffs-15th-wow-annual-pinball-party-inviteplease-rsvp/page/1

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Pinball 2000 H+V video sync adapter kit

1 week later
#445 10 months ago

Hey - I just launched a new kickstarter project. If you've seen me at the pinball shows this year you've seen my Pinball Pyramid bracket... check it out at https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2111218102/pinball-pyramid?ref=bcsjqr

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Pinball 2000 H+V video sync adapter kit

#446 10 months ago
Quoted from rkahr:

Hey - I just launched a new kickstarter project. If you've seen me at the pinball shows this year you've seen my Pinball Pyramid bracket... check it out at https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2111218102/pinball-pyramid?ref=bcsjqr

This is cool! Backed!!

#447 10 months ago
Quoted from andre060:

This is cool! Backed!!

Thanks for being first!

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Pinball 2000 H+V video sync adapter kit

2 weeks later
#448 10 months ago

Bought a Pro WPC Power Fix board, installed in CFTBL, runs like a top now. Quality product. Thanks Rob!

#449 10 months ago

Thanks again for this great product!
All of my games on location that have them are still working great!

2 months later
#450 7 months ago

Fellow Pinsiders,

Just a quick note to let you know that I launched a Kickstarter campaign today for redesigned score display boards for model H and model S Skee Ball machines! Here's a link if you want to check it out:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2111218102/skee-ball-display-pcbs-redesigned?ref=e36051

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Williams system 3-7 sound board potentiometer solutions

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 24.99
Lighting - Led
Lee's Parts
7,600 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Prairie Village, KS
$ 9.99
$ 96.77
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball-Mods.com
$ 12.95
From: $ 42.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
ModFather Pinball Mods
From: $ 210.00
$ 90.00
Lighting - Under Cabinet
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 159.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 15.00
Cabinet - Decals
Siegecraft Electronics
$ 229.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 14.95
$ 38.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
ModFather Pinball Mods
$ 15.00
Playfield - Protection
Professor Pinball
$ 27.99
Playfield - Protection
Lee's Parts
$ 99.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
From: $ 99.99
Cabinet - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 29.99
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Lighted Pinball Mods
From: $ 149.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Sparky Pinball
8,000 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Mesa, AZ
$ 99.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu
There are 455 posts in this topic. You are on page 9 of 10.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside