(Topic ID: 169085)

ANN: Illuminated Flipper Bats


By PPS

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 60 posts
  • 33 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Frax
  • Topic is favorited by 12 Pinsiders

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    There are 60 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
    #51 2 years ago

    I liked these so much I ordered 24 sets --- very nice product Rick

    #53 2 years ago

    Just throwing this out there but if someone is buying two sets because they need only 3, I'd be in to buy one flipper. Pm me.

    #54 2 years ago
    Quoted from challanger1128:

    I liked these so much I ordered 24 sets --- very nice product Rick

    WOW, I'm glad you didn't order 24 sets of my Leg Light-Ups, that would take me quite a while to make all those.

    #55 2 years ago

    I will be reaching out to you also once these are done --- i'm big into the mods

    #56 2 years ago

    Here are the initial instructions I got from Peter, clearly we need a picture/word version, and would be great for anyone who has purchased them if they do a video on the install. But for now, this is what I have as well as a wiring diagram

    When installing the flipper bats, please make sure that the wires comming out of the shaft are
    laid in a big loose loop, no tension on the wire. Use Ty-Wraps to connect the wire to an existing Wire Harness.
    Please double check the length of the screws that you use to fasten the boards, wouldnt be nice if they pop out the top of your playfield!

    Look at the direction on the pins in the connects of the bat. They are now loose and have to be removed before installing the bat. Pull the wire out of the connector and observe the direction of the pin in the connector. If a pin is stuck, use the tooth pick. On the color marked side of the connector
    Is a rectangular hole. Poke the tooth pick gently into the top side of the hole, there is a tiny metal sheet
    That needs to be pushed down gently, at the same time pull the conector out gently by the wire.
    The top side of the rectangular hole is always in the direction were the wires are comming out of the connector housing.

    1. Remove the flipper bats, Nice oppertunity to re do the bushings.
    2. I would advise to re-new the metal clamp and plunger to be on the save side.
    3. Put the wires of the bats through the bushing and the metal braket clamming the shaft,
    follow with the shaft, adjust the bats and fasten them.
    4. The wires and connectors are marked with a color for each channel, RGB and Ground,
    Put the wires back into the connector.
    Check that the wires are tight by pulling them gently, if the pin didnt hook into the connector it will
    be pulled out of the connector.
    5. Plug the wires comming from the bats into the CPU board, it has 4 places to plug the bats, you may
    take any place. Now you can find the best spot to place the CPU. Always make sure that the wire
    comming from the bats are hanging in a wide loop, from the bat to the wire harness, secure the wire
    with Ty-wraps to insure that the loop is secured. Then you can find the right position for the CPU
    board. Fasten the CPU board, Make sure that the screws you are using have the right length.
    6. Plug the wire connecting CPU and Sensor. The sensor board has a black diode on it. This black
    diode can be placed under any insert, black diode faceing the insert. Fasten the sensor board, check
    the length screws that you are using. The bats can be controlled through the light insert (Infra Red)
    7. Now connect the power supply wire harness to the CPU, this wire can be soldered to any 6V ac
    (General Illumination) lamp socket. Check for a near by Gen. Ill. Lamp, check the rout and lay the
    wire harness, cut the wire at the hight of the solder spots on the lamp socket, make sure that the
    wire is laying nicely, loose, not streched. Take of the tips of the wire isolation, apply solder metal,
    also apply solder metal to your solder spots on the lamp socket, sometimes the old solder doesnt
    flow nicly and is hard to heat up, applying some new solder metal helps the flowing. Then heat 1st
    solder spot, once the solder is melted, hold the wire on the solder spot, remove your solder iron
    and hold the wire firm a couple of seconds. Then repeat with the second wire.
    8. Recheck all the wires, Tie them neatly into the existing wire harness and make sure that the wires
    comming out of the shaft can hang through in a wide loop.
    9. Switch your pin on. Aim with the remote control to the light insert were you mounted the sensors,
    You can choose the color of the bats. You can also start confusion mode with letting the bats
    Blink and change colors. Have fun.

    Thanks for trusting my work. If you do have any questions, please feel free to contact me.
    peter@buthamburg.de

    Illum-Flipper (resized).png

    #57 2 years ago
    Quoted from challanger1128:

    I will be reaching out to you also once these are done --- i'm big into the mods

    ah ok.

    #58 2 years ago

    I've had three sets purchased directly from Peter for over a year without any issues and just ordered two more sets from him. I hope he starts making the short bats for TX, TAF, etc. (hint)

    #59 2 years ago

    That's possible, it does require tooling changes to the tool, but I think it's a good idea and when I discuss with Peter I will see what his thoughts are.

    #60 2 years ago
    Quoted from tktlwyr:

    C/DC came out before Tron and isn't even listed.

    No, it didn't!

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