(Topic ID: 132656)

An Addams Family Restore


By BrianZ

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 34 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Zenomorp
  • Topic is favorited by 27 Pinsiders

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#1 4 years ago

I'm hoping this thread may help someone in the future. The following is my restoration of an Addams Family. I've done a few restores, but this is the 1st "A" title that I get to keep. TAF was a grail machine for me, and I could not wait to bring it back to its glory.
I'm not going to post everything, since there are numerous better posts that cover the restore process. But, as i get feedback or questions, I can post updates and additional information as requested.

I'd be wrong to not mention 2 local Houston guys, whom recently assisted with Decal and Board testing.

I will be updating as i get time over the next few days/weeks.

Some background:

- Re-Import
- Came over 90% working
- A little bit more than normal cabinet damage (delimitation mainly, some areas missing wood, problems at the joints of the cab)
- Playfield had wear in the normal areas for TAF down to the bare wood
- Missing the knocker (Still looking for this, if anyone has one)
- Welds broken on every scoop (normal)
- Miscellaneous other broken parts
- Random rust everywhere...

Some Before Pics...
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#2 4 years ago

I've got pictures of everything. I label all coils, before desoldering off of the wiring harness. Everything else (lamps, switches) are left on the harness. All parts are removed in quadrants, and I put them into separately labeled plastic bags. Helps me keep everything straight.

The Tear Down.
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#3 4 years ago

I know my strengths and weaknesses... I can't draw a straight line, not alone touch up a playfield to where I would be happy.

Play field was sent out to Keller for repair/resto and clear coat.

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Playfield back from Resto. Looks good.
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#4 4 years ago

Some Cab pictures...

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In the power box, busted MOV and Thermistor...
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#5 4 years ago

Showtime !!! I’ll be following this thread.

For inspiration, it is however in Dutch language, one of the most beatifull TAF-restores I have ever seen (based on a whitewood): http://www.flipperforum.be/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=522

#6 4 years ago

I'll be doing the same thing to my TAF, once my new CPR playfield arrives.

#7 4 years ago

A few more cab pictures. Numeorus spots had delamination/seperation. Depending on where, I used either Epoxy or wood glue. Used a little compressed air to ensure it spread into all areas. Clamped everything until dry. Sanded everything 80-120-220. Numerous Bondo applications throughout...

I decided to be a bit different, and painted the bottom of the cab purple (matching the theme). The black and purple looks great.

Interesting fact. In the forums we see many complain about Stern Quality Control.... From what i have seen, it's not worse than what happen back in the William/Bally days. The inside sidewalls of my cabinent, were rough, full of nots, uneven, had gaps, and their was a line where 2 pieces of plywood had been glued together. None of this was due to age/neglect, and obvious came from the factory.
I ended up filling many of these gaps/voids with Bondo.

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#8 4 years ago

My hat's off to you. I wish I had the balls, know-how, space, tools, to do a full-on restore. I've all but given up on finding a TAF in nice shape at a reasonable price. Seems restoring a beater is the way to go. I'll be watching this thread. Good luck. I hope it all goes nice 'n' easy.

Is it a trick of the light, or did you paint the floor of the cabinet purple?

#9 4 years ago

He said purple - looks great. Great game. Glad to see another one getting some love.

#10 4 years ago

Decals on. Head was easy and a one person job.

Main body was a pia, two people was a huge help. My buddy had more experience on this part, and I was glad he was there for the assist...

Rails and lockbar on (white due to protective sticker)
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#11 4 years ago
Quoted from MeatWithGravy:

I hope it all goes nice 'n' easy.

Is it a trick of the light, or did you paint the floor of the cabinet purple?

Nice'N'Easy...Is there such thing in Pinball?

No trick of light, I went crazy and painted the bottom purple. I wanted my machine to be different.

All paint was conventional Spray Paint. Rustoleum. The rustoleum paint seems to go on better then Krylon.

#12 4 years ago

Well done thing! You're really ON THE BALL! Looks good and I like the purple bottom. Nice to see something a little different.

#13 4 years ago

Looks great so far. Miss my Addams Family. Will own another some day.

#14 4 years ago

Next phase....Restored playfield. Tnuts first, then Pop Bumper leadsIMG_1277.jpgIMG_1275.jpg

#15 4 years ago

Not posting everything done, since there are plenty of restore tutorials on Pinside.

- All parts tumbled, polished...
- Wiring harness was cleaned, and my labels put back (blue tags). Tags describe what coil they were connected to.
- Again, I left switches, targets, and lights soldered on the harness.
- Any damaged items were replace, all light sockets were manually cleaned. Thank god for the dremel tool.
- All of my targets were in pretty bad shape, so I bought all new targets (for Addams that will run you about $90)
- As long as you don't go crazy, the wiring harness has "memory" and generally falls back into place.
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#16 4 years ago

One tip..on Pop Bumpers. They take a ton of abuse. Plus, they are a utter pain to get to once a game is fully assembled. I spend extra time to ensure a satisfactory result.

1) Replace the skirts and body. There 20+ years old and are cracked, brittle, yellow, etc..... They wont last much longer, and the parts are cheap.. Replace them!
2) Obviously new wire leads for the bulbs (should go without saying). I put shrink tubing on both leads (Bally usually did one). Anywhere other metal is close.......
3) Rod and Ring assembly. It usually can be salvaged/cleaned, but sometimes it may have deep gouges in the Ring. In my case, I had to replace one.
4) Clean everything in the mech. Sleeves are always replaced. Again, cheap.......
5) Check the yokes. All of my metal yokes were broke in half. All were replaced (ironically the fiber yokes were good)
6) Obviously check the condition of the switch and spoon. Make any adjustments
7) Check the plunger and coil stops. Mine were good, but if you see anything looking like a mushroom; it's time to replace.

Vid has an excellent guide on this, so I wont go into more detail.

#17 4 years ago

The wiring bundle, I usually separate into layers. Trying to lay each down one at a time. Switch+target, Lights, Coil
- One other item to note. Sling shots. Check for "mushroom" on the plunger and stops. Mine were beat to hell.
- For the slingshots, I replaced the switches, plungers, coil stops, and of course the sleeves....

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Pic, shows some sloppy soldering at the pop bumper coils. This was temporary. Now has been cleaned up. Leaving it this way would have lead to problems in the future. Prior to installation, i threw all coils into the ultrasonic cleaner (w/wrappers on). In my restore, I did not replace any coil wrappers...(maybe someday later, right now they don't bug me.)
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#18 4 years ago

In reality the order is, Switch, Lamp , Coil .

#19 4 years ago
Quoted from McCune:

In reality the order is, Switch, Lamp , Coil .

Doh! Caught me while I was editing my post. I realized I had documented wrong.

I've learned a ton from your past posts...!

#20 4 years ago

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3 weeks later
#23 4 years ago

Did you do any touch ups to the PF? I just bought TAF, my first pin, and need to do some touch ups. Bottom 4 windows on the mansion are worn to wood at the bottom of the window. I used some acrylic paints to touch up temporarily. My question comes when I'm ready to make them permanent. After I reset the inserts, I have concerns because the paint doesn't completely "smooth out" when it dries. If I were to clear coat the PF would the clear coat hide the bumpiness of the paint?

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#24 4 years ago

Hey altobalk,

Without going overboard, you could use Clay's method with the superglue and pipette method. If you have his TOP4 video, it is shown there. If you don't have it, it's worth buying (as well as the others). http://www.pinrepair.com/top/

#25 4 years ago

lukex, That site has a ton of great info. Thanks for the suggestion!

#26 4 years ago

To answer Altobalk's questions..
In your case, you could do the following:
-Mylar over the area (Easy and cheap)....Just realize that if you pull it up, other decals (on windows) might come up with it.
- I have friends whom spot clear areas when good sucess. Using crystal clear or etc...Takes some pratice, and blending
- Buy a mansion overlay....

Ideally restorers do the following: Clean the playfiled well. Fix any wood areas (no paint), apply first clear coat. Paint repairs are ontop of the first layer of clear. Once all the paint fixes are applied, then the additonal coats of clear.

Vid has a great guide on this. (very active thread)....Believe he even covers how to get paint to lay flat....

In my case, the playfiled had numeorus areas of wear down to the wood. Plus, I cant draw a straight line, not alone paint correctly.

I sent mine out to a professional restorer. Keller did a swap with me for a playfiled he previously restored (My PF+$$$). Fully restored, plus Clear Coat.

I'll post a bit more later this week.

#27 4 years ago

You bought a TAF as a first pin?...that is impressive. Not exactly cheap.

#28 4 years ago

I bought a WOZ first. That's either impressive...or stupid (considering the price!).

#29 4 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

I bought a WOZ first. That's either impressive...or stupid (considering the price!).

Holy smokes....

I started out on an Chicago Coin EM....

#30 4 years ago

TZ was my first purchase. TAF my second.

But TAF is my favorite and TZ my second.

2 weeks later
#31 4 years ago

Been a bit, a few more posts. The old ramp was a bit beat up. So i replaced with a new clear ramp. I never realized how many switches/lights are attached to the ramp. Took me a bit to clean, disconnect, and migrate to the new ramp....IMG_1308.jpg

#32 4 years ago

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#33 4 years ago

A few updates

Machine has color DMD, and for the first time used Comet LED's. I've bought a few mods (Bookcase and Thing sticker), and built a few on my own (Lighting added to flipper buttons, Topper, Swamp hole, Inside thing box, and bookcase). Also built my own Lurch car.

I'll try to post some photos of each shortly, once i get a decent picture.

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#34 4 years ago

Looking great!!

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