Rule of thumb is 2.5A per game. Based on 80% rated breakers: 6 on 20A, 120V circuit, 4 on a 15A, 120V circuit. You can probably safely get a few more games per circuit, but this is a good starting point.

I run 6 games on one 15A circuit. However, even though they're all turned on, I don't think more than three have been played at one time. I have had no issues at all.

I ran 6 machines on 14 gauge wire and a 15 amp circuit with no problems. New service box and breakers and machines plugged into 3 separate outlets. Having 2 machines per outlet will give you the ability to do this as it will not overload the wire.

Ken

The GTB EM schematics that I have seen show power consumption on them and typically it's about 150 Watts. So at 120 V line voltage in USA? - that means 1.25 A per machine.

Ok. Here is what I recorded using a Fluke 87 True RMS multimeter. The game I used was Fast Draw. All #44 incandescent lamps.

The meter has a 1000 clamp on ammeter. So, 1mA on the display = 1A. When recording, the meter captures min, max and average every 100ms.

During game over the game is 1.91A.

During game play, the average was 1.97A.

Max was 7.36A during game reset when all score reels, score motor, bonus relay, etc are resetting. That is an very instantaneous peak of at least 100ms. Not anything I'd use to calculate circuit loads, just an interesting reading.

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I have never been an LED guy, but I have experimented with a way of putting a lot of LEDs in an EM without it being noticeable. I put warm white, frosted, single LED bulbs in the backbox and natural light, frosted, single LEDs under the inserts. I leave the GIs as normal 44 bulbs to prevent the ball strobing and also LEDs in the GI don't look right. You can't tell the difference on the ones in the backbox and under the inserts. This makes a big difference in the power draw and heat produced. I figure it removes around a half an amp if not a little more on games with a lot of lights in the backbox. I use Comet Pinball LEDs by the way. They are $26 for 100.

You need non-ghosting for feature lights, or they will flicker from stray voltage that leaks thru the circuits. That style costs a bit more I think. I use Cointaker ones that are 99 cents a piece. Also, in regards to reset amperage, I would think if you reset all your machines at the same time, could trip the breaker, but I suppose they can handle a very short spike like that(?) Electricians feel free to chime in here for a reality check.

Yep breakers are set to handle high amounts of current for short durations. Otherwise every time a motor starts it would trip the breaker. Motors typically pull 7x their running current at startup.

The breaker never even saw this 7+A spike it was too fast. I can hear the multimeter beep every time a new high and low is recorded. Only heard it beep once during the reset cycle.

Fluke is worth the money, glade I bought one, although a different model.

This one is from about 1989. It's version 1 of the 87. I think the Fluke 87 is up to version 5 now. I had to replace the display, as they had some weird segment issues, but it's been a workhorse.