Those are practically cheaper than using incandescents! And not as bright!

Wow.

I feel this urge to give your post a thumbs down, but it's not your fault! lol

Color match the inserts and add a couple of spots and it makes all the difference in the world. Mine looks great now. Nice review!

I do? News to me.

Since the code is open source, I think we can fix that, right?

Itching to buy this pin! Looking forward to your video - I just re-watched the papa one and my blood was pumping from just watching it.

Congratulations James! ...and thanks for taking the time to share!
Funny to see an LED debate...If anyone can make it Rock, you will!
I look forward to those pics!

Enjoy it in the best of Health!

http://papa.org/2014/09/24/americas-most-haunted-pinball-gameplay/ From like a month ago.

Maybe PinballBulbs could make an upgraded LED kit for it? Thanks for the review!

I wanted surface mount LED's on PCB like Rick used for MMr. But I was voted off the island.

Chuck should offer a LED upgrade - that way he's not stuffing it with Ablaze lights the buyer might not want (waste)

Very well written; I think Spooky has the "Boutique Pin Maker of the Year" award locked down (i.e they have shipped some games, and the games seem good/great, and no reported fireworks so far!).

edit: and congratulations Ben, I think you might also get the coveted (and last awarded in what year?) rookie pin designer of the year!

Seriously, the competition is Predator and Nemo as maybe's? I can't remember the last time a brand new designer has actually had their game brought to market. Probably in the 90's? Hat tipped.

Awesome, I bought the kits of a couple of my games (TAF/TZ) and love them! I'll have to do this too when I get AMH .

Maybe it'd be better to ship with standard incandescents in the GI?

They provide heaps of light. People can then swap them if they want to.

I haven't seen an AMH in the flesh so hard to say ... But personally, on my DMD pins I generally LED the controlled inserts and leave Incandesents in the GI. Easier on my eyes. I have done leds in the GI and it's not really my cup of tea. But I know others like it.

I'm sure you'll sort it all out ....

rd.

I'm generally the opposite unless using LED OCD. LED for GI and bulbs for inserts, unless the GI has dimming effects.

There is an issue with adding different LED's into the GI. When adding dual SMD leds from either Cointaker or Comet they wouldn't light up 100%. Measured the voltage at the socket and the voltage is not 6.3V. This may be the reason that even the Ablaze LED's seem dim.

Re: LEDs. Just my opinion: I think the GI is fine, but I play in a well lit room. Just wanted to post so people don't panic if they play in well lit places. I think the game could use a little more lighting in the back of the pf, and some people already added lights there and it looks good with one or two lights.

Nice written review OP.

Agree 99%. With few exceptions I prefer it exactly this way. I want this game bad, but one of the main reasons I did not like WOZ was that I couldn't see the ball in the dark. I prefer to play with the lights off. I want to believe this can be fixed.

My game room is pretty dark and the only place I have trouble seeing on mine is at the back of the playfield. I already have a plan to add another color changing strip to the back, but floods look good too. As far as replacing the GI with CT bulbs, I haven't noticed any issues myself. There's only about 7 or 8 bulbs to replace

Thanks for sharing...game looks pretty dark in the video, is that just the camera?

No, that's the game as it comes from the factory with no real ambient light in the room. A 'worst case scenario' as far as the lighting environment.

I guess the darkness does represent the ghost hunting theme pretty well. That said, I imagine a bit more light would be helpful to play the game - but it wouldn't look right being lit up like ACDC.

Adding light does not make the game any easier!
Again, I only added two spotlights and color matched inserts and it looks great. incandescents would look horrible on this game imo. I don't even think they can be used. It was designed for leds I believe. You would have to ask Charlie.

This game is in contention with Xmen for the worst call outs I've ever heard. Don 't like this pin at all. Oh, hope you're enjoying it.

What are you talking about! That's some of the best voice acting I've ever heard!

Great write up. Congrats on the new 1/2 pin

I have been very interest to play this title in person. I like the theme but; like you I have always dislike the back glass but only for the people in it sorry Ben.

Looks very clean and simple as far as mechanics and wiring. Only possible concern is gear mechs on the elevator. If I ever purchased this game I would likely buy an extra set maybe 2 if I was going to keep it.

With my game to be built within the next three weeks...I would be done for that

In the PAPA video the callouts are pretty awesome, to me the humor is one of the best parts of the game. I wouldn't have ordered it if it wasn't so hilarious.

Ok, glad you guy's like that and enjoy the pin, just not for me. I never liked humour in pinball, prefer darker themes and sci fi.

The issue isn't the level of light (for me), it's the fact that they FLICKER LIKE CRAZY.. and yes, the GI OCD will fix that, and honestly, I think I was down there before the GI OCD was released.... it drives me nuts. Not everyone is going to put an extra board in their game just to make the GI "acceptable". Some people barely notice it. It's HORRI-BAD for me...like more than 3-4 minutes looking at a game with strobing GI and I have a headache.

There's someone local to me that uses these for GI as well, and it's awful. I hate to tell people what to do with their games, but...ugh. If I can't track the ball because it's strobing, I'm not going to want to play the game. =| If it's dark AND strobing, which is just about an instant headache, I'm not even going to get past plunging the ball.

Just checking: Have you tried power level 3? Perhaps there's a coding problem just with 2...

And on 9 did it come through the glass and hit you between the eyes?

Maybe you can install a lower power coil so that the adjustment from 1 to 2 is finer.

I'm sure Ben can adjust the software. Watch that Papa video, the ball sure rockets out of there.

As jrivelli said, with the power of 1000 suns ....

rd.

Is there mylar on the kickout area? I imagine one of these on location would get a wear hole similar to whitewater eventually...

Funny you should mention Whitewater. I was going to mention that the kickout of AMH reminded me of the mine Kickout. That fires out and bounces down the sides half the time ....

rd.

I have my right VUK on 0. nice dribble. But for what ever reason I do see the right VUK not being consistent. which might be on purpose.

I was told by charlie that the cut scene animation could not be flipper canceled. The reason I was told was too difficult to code in.

My conspiracy theory is that Ben is an Artist and did not want to mess with his masterpiece.

The right VUK is mechanical. Some variation will always occur. Thus the random behavior is not deliberate.

WH20 kickout is a good comparison. That's pretty brutal. I wish ours wasn't like that, but it became that way in manufacturing.

Flipper cancel of mode start dialog / "just give me the damn ball!" is a feature I know people want. Chuck dropped off a production AMH at my place on October 1st and I had 2.5 weeks to add everything I could before expo (while moving my shop / while doing my day job) Mode hurry-up wasn't a priority.

Again, something else that could be part of a "Final Update". But hey, we shipped with a wizard mode!

Ben, from what I've seen so far it's 9/10 awesome. And an amazing first effort.

Still amped to do a follow up Heck pin?

rd.

Well, non-pinheads left came out of my house tonight screaming quotes from the game to others in my driveway. The game is funny and well done.

Do you like candy?

someone had to rip on the Lepai amplifier bolted in there, looks like a 168HA maybe? had one here and sent it back only because I was getting better throughput from their less expensive LP-838. great economical easily replaceable choice by Spooky. if it were up to me I'd run with a less expensive but efficient 10-12" woofer, maybe dial the subwoofer gain down a notch on the amp itself because they can warm up a bunch if cranked up a while, you can get much more bass from it at lower power, if.
Ben Heck, get a look at the specs of -budget- 10's and 12's from MCMelectronics.com, 95-97db from one watt if I remember correctly, they may boom even lower-harder with a properly tuned port tube. an 8 being about 50sq" area, 78" for a 10, 113" for a 12 (hello!) that theres plenty of room for.

The lepai 168ha is a fantastic choice and exactly what I use in similar projects. You just need to make sure you put enough amps behind them as the 1.5a 12v adapter they come with won't cut it. Built in crossover, separate sub gain, it's perfect for this application. I have it driving a 10" on my vpin cab and the floor shakes with bass. You don't need any port either. Speaker using the cabinet as a baffle is perfect.

yup, NICE little amps, input sensitivity may have been lower on the 168 I rejected than the 3 838's I have. they sure can get wonky with too low a voltage or current being supplied, pretty healthy with 3+ amp and a solid 12v (under load). same for my warmed up 2020A+ amplifiers. I'd mentioned a port as a possible for just having built a pair of "the Clue" clones (havent heard a real pair in person but..) that are 14h x 10.5d x 8w, the pair of 6.5" woofers in those boxes with 32x120mm port tubes are putting out some pretty healthy 40-45hz room filling bass.. you'd honestly think theres a sub running, its really that deep. used a freeware app "box-notes" for size and theil smalls, it'll calc the freqs for diameter-length. no not really needed, but just might get more outta smallish power. LOVE playin with audio here.

I have an honest question, Isn't anyone else concerned with the longevity of plastic brackets holding coils in place and the plastic/acrylic (can't tell) gear and lift?

We see how brittle plastic becomes as it ages and with those parts taking a beating from constant coil fire was making them in plastic vs metal a wise choice?