ordered end of January, supposed to be built May/June timeframe. I'm hoping with the extra person he hired chuck can increase production from 2.5/week to at least 3, and I can possibly get it sooner than later. Feels good to be part of a small club

everyone should register their game:
http://www.ipsnd.net/View.aspx?id=6161

before TPF they were at about 2.5 per week. With the extra guy they hired just to do cabinets, they should be up to about 3/week.

Well crap, if I ordered late January, I'm probably lucky if I get mine in late June.

200

spooky said on latest podcast done by January 1st.
They are at about 3 units per week, so..

#44 4/15
#47 4/22
#50 4/29
#53 5/06
#56 5/13
#59 5/20
#62 5/27
#65 6/03
#67 6/10
#70 6/17
#73 6/24
#76 7/01
#79 7/08
#82 7/15
#85 7/22
#88 7/29
#91 8/05
#94 8/12
#97 8/19
#100 8/26
#103 9/02
#106 9/09
#109 9/16
#112 9/23
#115 9/30
#118 10/07
#121 10/14
#124 10/21
#127 10/28
#130 11/04
#133 11/11
#136 11/18
#139 11/25
#142 12/02
#145 12/09
#147 12/16
#150 12/23

There might be some fudge factor for days off, going to pinball shows, etc., but that list seems to line up with finishing by the end of the year.

they had less people working before. they've added at least one more full time assembler since then if not 2, and with KT working full time for the company that's more time for Charlie to focus on building. There was also the whole "predator" side project, and probably some time invested in scoregasm.

Sounds about right to upgrade, totally doing this and the plastic protectors. Funny, Stern would charge it's customers $500 for LED's and a tilted display bezel.

laserriffic.. Or just buy one from Terry
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3647

I got the same response.. basically 14 machines done waiting for boards (and mine is in that group). Parker (longhorn engineer) supplies them, not sure why the delay either, perhaps he's stuffing them by hand?

I wasn't complaining.. According to the estimated schedule I posted, looks like you're still on schedule. I'm hoping I get an email late next week, very excited I'm so close to getting mine.

exactly.. they are only making 150, that's more rare than a big bang bar. Even if one did pop up, the likeliness of it being in reasonable distance is slim (unless you don't mind shipping)

I'm #84, which should have been done basically this week according to building 3 per week, wrapping up by December:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/amh-club-a-spooky-start/page/3#post-2419682

If you're #66 then I may not see my game for another 6 weeks

Since JPOP has a wiki page now, I figured it was only fair Chuck had his own (still rough and needs things added, but it's been accepted by wikipedia)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chuck_Emery

define "good deal"

Charlie: dont' shy away from servos on future projects just because they might not last as long as a coil (sleeves are cheap and easy to replace). servos are much quieter, and not everything needs the kick of a solenoid (and I like the adjustable position that servos offer).

I think you mean servants.. or do you mean the servants will be controlled with servos?

Bible adventures brought biblical bouncing balls to pop bumpers in benton (say that 3 times fast)

You know what's going to happen right? Ben will declare "bah! switches in pinball are too inconsistent. I'm replacing them with an optical camera that detects how many balls are in the trough. I just need to make the trough green so it can detect the difference!"

I thought you kept the kluged machine put together with 'less than good quality" leftover parts? Do you not keep pins because you don't have the room, or you really don't want to look at it any more than you have to.. because code

Seems like a lot of manufactured pins from the past won't start a game unless all the balls are in the trough. Not sure if this ever went away? Or have I just never owned anything modern enough (my newest game is a SEGA).

Not to say this couldn't be improved, but I would be curious how much of the coding would have to grow to accommodate (if it can't eject enough balls for a certain mode, is it really that easy to add a few lines of code?) Something that goes like this:
"if balls >4, but <2 then do not start modes Q, R, and S... If balls >3, but <1, then do not start modes M, N, P, Q, R, S...."

I'm only guessing here because I've not programmed a pinball machine yet.

Welcome! Love the avatar

Picked up #84 last night. They started to load it up, found a scratch on the cabinet, so charlie went out of his way to get a backup pin re-tested. Stopped at Lawrence's pub, not a good idea on a friday night. It's fish fry, so it's packed, and the waitresses are usually tending bar so service is REALLY slow. Burgers were decent though, and the beer is cheap. AMH #1 is still there in nice condition. 2 credits were in the machine, and not a single person played it while we were there (perhaps all the locals got their fill), still 25 cent play.

20150821_185852.jpg
20150821_200709.jpg

I don't think this has been talked about (if you don't own it, or haven't bothered to go through the troubleshoot menus you wouldn't know), but I found the switch matrix menu interesting. You can turn on voice announced switch edge test so as you hit switches, you'll hear Ben announce "SWITCH NUMBER FOURTY NINE". Once again, not critical but sort of nice if you're under the playfield or don't want to have to stare at the screen.

I get the occasional double ball eject from the trough, but it knows both boths are in play (so if I drain one, the ball doesn't end).

One request I'd like to make: Since the ball seems to jump in the air sometimes (and I've gotten the ball stuck in every nook and cranny you can think of), when I put the ball back in the shooter lane, I have like 10 seconds to rush and get the glass and lockdown bar back on before it auto-launches. Can that be increased to say 20-30 seconds?

I don't suppose there's any way to lower the coil strengths even more? the slings and right scoop are still pretty strong even on zero.

Weird isn't it? Imagine Gary Stern replying to anyone? He's a small company, but that's not such a bad thing.

I'm still getting the occasional double or triple ball eject, but I don't know if that's software or mechanical.
I agree the pop bumpers need to pulse a few times quickly in a row during ball search, not a single hit.
When you close the coindoor, can you re-enable coils a few seconds after instead of instantly? It's not a huge deal, but by the time you close the door, you have to quickly lock the door because the auto launch kicks in and the ball starts going around the half-orbit.

mine did not, but not sure I want to lay any down? In home environment, with low plays, routine cleaning (and replacing balls), I would think the clear should last quite a long time.

Charlie has said many many many times.. after 150, there will be no more.. no vault editions, no LE's.. this is it.

Here's a silly question: whoever filled out the ipdb info, why is jason Jones not listed in the voice actor list? He's the first player voice.

anyone else have their left sling fire for no reason sometimes when the ball travels down the left return ramp?

Every servo works on the same voltage. Really the only differences is torque and speed. AMH just happens to use hobbyking because it's the most cost effective ones.

AMH's trough is more like early williams (like black knight), which has a hump. RZ will be more like a modern stern, balls roll down a hill, and a VUK pops the last ball at the end of the hills up into the shooter lane (and every ball sits on a switch to keep track).

I thought about doing this too. I haven't looked under the playfield to check which post it is, don't suppose you have a part number handy?

Yea, mine still gets stuck here and sometimes by the pop bumper (but at least ball search usually fixes the pop bumper issue). Almost need some sort of pyramid piece with a round cutout for the ghost base so the ball has no flat section to rest:
amh_ghost_fix.jpg

That or the ghost model itself needs a tiny wiper arm that will bump the ball when the ghost goes into search. Even with the ghost spinning, it can still just sit there.

No, that was the issue where the ball would hop between the wall and the top plastic, effectively getting jammed inside a dead wall. The plastic can't get over tightened because it would rub against the ghost base and burn out the servo. The real solution would be to bump the servo down so the plastic can be tightened down, but I don't know if that's easily done.

Correct, I believe the wood is laminate similar to say shelving material (pressed wood with a hard shell coating that's smooth).

Good to know. I noticed on my backbox a small section of the top clear part of the decal on the left side of mine is peeling slightly . I don't want to mess with it, but good to know if I need to replace it that it's not hard.

I would drop them to about a 4, still plenty of power to get up ramps.

I suppose you could bypass the switch, but it's a safety thing. I don't see why it's a big deal so long as you hold a flippers up and rest the balls on them (leaving them in the shooter lane obviously auto fires when you close the door).

Ooh, can we get a secret code to cradle a ball without holding the button for bathroom breaks, Ala twilight zone home rom?

Oh man, there's really a small possibility AMH could add color? SWEET!

No, but had really bad STDM drains from the middle lane so I bent the metal wall in a little until the ball started curving back to the left flipper. I'm wondering if your magnet isn't level, or if the pulse just happens to be pushing the ball in that direction every time.

haven't tried it yet, but since the amp is speaker output only (similar to this amp):
71n+CYpj7aL._SL1400__(resized).jpg

You would need to wire up left, right, and ground to a stereo female 3.5mm jack
audio.output_(resized).jpg

It's the lower left, this is common. Ben updated the ball search so you don't have to wait long when it does happen

I ended up adding a wall, there's a crevice just big enough for it to get caught on

So I'm still having issues where the ball can hop the trough and get stuck inside the apron. I don't think the coil setting for the 2 kickers are separated (and if I turn it down too much, the ball doesn't pop into the shooter lane), so I have to keep it up to like a 4 or 5. So just to make sure I never have to take the apron off again, I designed and 3d printed a little cover (with cutouts for the swinging arm). I put it up on thingiverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2069598

If anyone is having issues where the ball gets stuck in the crevice just in front of the hellevator, I made a 3d printable wall that slides onto the metal ramp
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2236805

Contact Joe at laseriffic (he made them), otherwise there's a slim chance that Terry from pinball life may still have one
http://www.laseriffic.com

https://pinballsupernova.wordpress.com/2015/03/29/laseriffics-americas-most-haunted-topper/

53 (resized).jpg

I uploaded a 3d printed fix on thingiverse "amh trough". There's a link somewhere above

I rarely hop balls with flippers set low, but occasionally it might skip (don't think mine ever hit the side of the cabinet). Seeing how I have an AMH, a 3d printer, and solidworks would this be something everyone would be interested in?

Yes, but you will see the lines.

probably... like PETG cut out and zip tied.. though if it projects over, then you may have a stuck ball

Don't know if anyone played the visual pinball 10 version of this, but it plays pretty good and they've even taken the liberty of colorizing some of the DMD art

B7S (resized).png
https://media.giphy.com/media/l1J9Op1rv5WC0re5G/giphy.gif

yes, but i believe at least one cap has a hole drilled into it. may depend on which lamps you have in them

Just upload the STL to thingiverse

Technically the "newest" prusa is an SLA printer

I've used the mk2 for over a year now, and although the "mesh leveling with 9 points" should make better parts (because if the bed isn't level, or the axes are skewed it adjusts), I think it's slightly gimmicky. The proximity probe that measures distance has to be within 1mm of the tip, which isn't always easy to do. I own two monoprice select V2 printers (wanhao clone) and sometimes I can get just as good prints on a $300 printer if it's calibrated. Only bad part with the cheaper printers is the base bed is really thin and flimsy, which is why I'm starting to add glass on the top layer to stiffen it up.

The Creality Ender is $180 shipped and it's getting rave reviews because it's cheap and has a really stiff frame using 80/20. I'm half tempted to buy one myself.

wonka effect

I have a fix for a separate issue in this area:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2236805

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2069598

no, snaps on top. the cutouts are for the gate. The issue is there's too much gap between the trough walls and the apron.

im willing to 3d print any parts for a small fee, name your color

that's mine.. the 2 thin prongs slides over the sheet metal on the far wall

I forget what the fix is for that.. maybe a spacer that bumps the servo up to allow more gap between the ghost and the platic? All I know is that by the time my game was built (90 something) the fix was already installed.

If they did, they've been scrubbed. Homepin practically copied the board/code to run thunderbirds. There's a pinwiki but it's very scarce with info
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=PinHeck_System

Seeing how Pinheck2 board is not very different (only updated to run color dmd) that's 400 games without schematics to make repairs.

Leave it be.. I loved the cheesiness of the theme, the jump ramp was awesome, but I got rid of mine for all the issues (ball hangup at the lower elevator exit, the balls getting stuck inside the trough, the ball getting stuck at that one pop bumper), plus no matter how far I turned down the sling coils I would still get cheap side drains. Not to say those things couldn't get fixed, but how much work would you want to put into it (and what would a remake cost today 6 years later with inflation?). I mean I see gently used AMH's selling all the time for under $5500.

It wouldn't be the same driven with a coil (nor would the hellevator). The servo is awesome, I just think there needed to be more gap underneath / more powerful servo to overcome the resistance (but cost is everything).

great work.. when I owned the game I definitely thought "With some 3d printing this game could look even better".

The one that gets harrassed by the boob ghost is ben's friend Jones

something about mary reference?

I believe Ben took them down because some guy said he was going to try to build an AMH from scratch.