(Topic ID: 124615)
Linked Games
America's Most Haunted
Spooky Pinball, 2014-
Spooky
Zaccaria, 1987
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1 week later
I swapped white into ours this past weekend. Also changed the rubber sleeves from black to blue.
I doubled up the rubbers on the post to the left of the bottom pop and it has reduced the ball getting stuck there by 99%. 
I wedged one rubber between the ring where the rubber should sit and the epoxy added plastic piece, and then one more in the actual ring to hold the first rubber in place.
Also added non-ghosting 5050 colored LEDs *everywhere*.
2015-04-27_17-32-25_834.jpg
Video of LEDs during attract mode...
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-Dud6paVc_Udl9QN2tNVGc2VVk/edit?usp=docslist_api
She's getting there. 
Quoted from btw75:I'm also getting stuck behind the basement and have to nudge to get the ball to foll into the hole. I expect this to be an easy fix, I just need to do it.
You know, we had this happen also the first few weeks. I have to say... I don't think it's happened in the past week or so. I wonder if something moved or wore down a bit? Will take a look over in that area next time I have the glass off.
1 week later
Quoted from JOESCHALL:Shooter rod:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/amh-ghost-shooter-rod-in-progress
Target decals:
ebay.com link » New Americas Most Haunted Cushioned 3m Target Protectors Pinball Machine
Still haven't gotten to test them out in my game though. Still waiting on that. Two weeks ago spooky let me know my game was about to be playtested, so I'm expecting to hear about shipping soon.
I have a set of those protectors here waiting to be installed too. I may get to them later since it's so hot out there!
And good luck Joe! Hopefully you don't get a Monday machine!
There are a couple scoring bugs we've noticed. Sometimes you can get a 100m score in a short game and that's flat out impossible. I had a 230m game that took a while but my son said he noticed every jackpot was 3.5m to 5m... again... IMHO impossible.
I think our honest, unbugged high score is in the 130m range and that felt like I just went through a war.
Quoted from btw75:the CT kit is better than stock for sure. I do think they used a little too much orange though! I used pink for the War Fort and some sunlight for in other places.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/eIcWIKB2mAM?autoplay=1&rel=0
Yeah, we went in a little different direction also...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-Dud6paVc_Udl9QN2tNVGc2VVk/view?usp=sharing
4 years later
Re-joined the club today...
0601191518a (resized).jpg
I have to say... this alternative artwork is much better in person. For the theme it's fitting. The first time around(#41) I had the blue cartoon artwork and thought it was way better than this realistic one. Now I'm not so sure.
At any rate, can't wait to get it setup tonight to play. 
It's a shooter rod from Cointaker.
https://cointaker.com/products/americas-most-haunted-shooter-rod
It's a little hokey but we had it the first time around and I got used to it. Just showed the wife and she remembered it too and is glad I got it again.
Does anybody have Pinball Side Mirrors for their AMH? I'm thinking of getting a set but I'm curious how they did the cutout where the side LED strips are? Pictures would be appreciated.
After a week and a half with our "new" machine there are a couple of items I found that need fixing.
First, the high scores do not save. We can put up five good scores in an afternoon but once we turn off the game the scores reset to default. I have verified that other settings, like coil settings, do save when the machine is powered off. I looked for a setting in the menu where you can have the game not save scores but I didn't find anything?
Second, if I put a bulb in the scoop flasher the entire lamp column #5 will act all wonky. I notice Spooky has a bulb socket with a diode at the top-left corner of the light matrix sheet but I don't see a diode on our scoop flasher socket? Should there be one there? I'm thinking this issue will either be a bad/missidng diode of a defective ULN2803A.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
BTW, even with these small issues we are loving the game!
Thanks herg!
I'll try resetting the high scores tonight. If PIC version is firmware version then v23.
Do you know where the high scores are saved? Memory card or EEPROM or??? Just curious.
Yep, that is what is displayed when I turn the game on. I have a spare EEPROM coming Friday or Saturday just in case it's that. They were only $3 and I needed to place a Digikey order anyways so I figured what the heck.
Quoted from billsfanmd:Thx!
Back in the club again! Just wondering if I should get an LED kit for AMH to brighten up the pf or is is just a few added spots needed to brighten things up?
I added a small ~6" blue LED strip in the trough area that runs off the GI and an ~16" RGB LED strip above the rear panel that runs off the existing RGB LEDs.
This has helped a lot with brightness IMO. The only thing I may still add are spots on the slings aimed at the middle of the playfield.
Quoted from herg:I was getting a lot of theater shots bricking off the end of the ramp, so I printed my take on betelgeuse clothes pin.
[quoted image]
Any chance of getting the file for this? I tried a couple washers but they worked loose. Was going to buy some clothespins next. 
Quoted from mthirkell:Mind posting pics?
No problem, I'll post some later tonight.
Quoted from mthirkell:Mind posting pics?
Here are a few pictures.
0618192008a (resized).jpg0618192009 (resized).jpg0618192009b (resized).jpg0618192011 (resized).jpgQuoted from billsfanmd:Nice! Where are the spots? Which place did you get led strip from on back panel?
No spots yet. I may add one on each sling in the future aimed in a crisscrossed pattern. The RGB LED strip I got from a friend I've done lighting work for. It was just a leftover piece we had from previous projects. I've seen 5m strips on eBay for $11 shipped. Actually, here's a 5m one with a cheap controller for $10.50...
https://ebay.us/YriLqx
Quoted from herg:Whoa! That post on the left of the scoop must make it really tough to hit. Lots of times mine bounces in from the side.
I thought it would but I don't think it's too different... I'm already used to it I guess. I was thinking of getting a Cliffy and removing the post but I kinda like that it's different.
Quoted from benheck:Still shocked Stern used our flaky jump ramp idea...
I think you beat yourself up too much on the ramp. It's not that bad at all IMO. I still haven't added the "clothespin fix" and I don't find myself cursing it.
So herg... going through this thread I see you added an LEDOCD board to your game. Think it makes a big difference? I replaced all the stock LEDs with anti-ghosting LEDs and it's made the stock flicker better... but it's still kinda noticeable. I'd love to be able to totally eliminate it.
Quoted from billsfanmd:If I got that kit How do you wire it into your game fro 12v? If I bought a roll I would need to cut it and find some sort of wiring/connectors to use the rest of the roll. You cut those rolls at the 4 copper tabs at whatever length you like?
Yep, you cut the strips to length where those copper tabs are.
As far as wiring, you have to tie it in to the existing RGB wiring which is +12v, -Red, -Green, -Blue.
Quoted from herg:I do think it makes a big difference, but I don't have any of the Spooky boards left, and I don't plan to build more. What I do have is some custom code that increases the PWM frequency by changing how the rows and columns are ordered, call it OCD-lite, if you want. It doesn't use any extra CPU time because it's only reordering the row/column transitions.
The custom code that I run on my game has this alternate driver as an option, among other enhancements. I promised Ben I wouldn't distribute it, though. The code for the lamp driver is posted somewhere around here, and you could compile it into the v22 code if you wanted. The v23 code was never officially released.
Hmmm... didn't realize v23 was unofficial? It's included at Ben's AMH page so I figured it was official?
Thanks for the information. I think I'll post a WTB post to see if there are any stragglers out there not using their AMH LED OCD. If that falls through I'll have to look into that custom code you made.
And I have to thank you for sharing your 3D files for the Wonky Star Post and the Clothespin Ramp Spacer. The ramp spacer has *TOTALLY* change my ramp shot. I hit that shot 4 times in a row yesterday which I could never do before. It makes the shot so smoooooth now.
Quoted from herg:It was really designed more for RZ than for AMH. It plugs directly into the board, and the connectors are placed differently between AMH and RZ. You would have to add cables and Z-connectors to get it to install properly.
Yeah, I saw that in your directions. Shouldn't be an issue... as long as I find one.
I'm glad to be able to. I agree that the ramp is no problem with the "clothespin" installed. When the shot is hit solid, it makes the jump. I even had to put a roof on my landing area because the ball would sometimes take flight and hit the left cabinet wall.
I have my flippers set to 4 so I'm not getting that amount of flying. First time around I did... so much so it broke the switch over in the landing area. LOL.
Quoted from herg:Good luck. If you are willing and able to assemble a board with SMD parts, I'll give you a bare board. It would still need programmed, though.
Thanks a lot for the offer! I may have found one though...
https://www.pinballshop.nl/pinball-leds/led-ocd-control-board/led-ocd-spooky/?sl=en
They are on vacation until July 3rd so I won't know for sure until then.
Quoted from Nevus:Is it that you get rejects or it just doesn’t go up the ramp smoothly?
In my game the ball would not go up the ramp, it'd hit into the metal ramp wall and be rejected.
The "clothespin" extends the ramp a bit more so it aims the ball actually at the ramp and not the ramp wall.
I've gone from hitting the ramp shot 31.48% of the time to hitting it 82.81% of the time.
Quoted from billsfanmd:Is there an adjustment on the menu to raise volume of just the call outs?
thx
Pretty sure there is not.
herg posted his shim here...
And his Wonky Post here...
http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=35
2 months later
Does anyone have the part number for the IR transmitter/receiver at DigiKey or Mouser or Newark or eBay even? I'm having a little "Dirty Pool" problem and I already reflowed all the solder joints on the IR/servo PCB and I also cleaned and aimed the transmitter and receiver. Just want to make sure I get compatible parts the first order.
2 weeks later
Finally got around to installing the LED OCD I purchased a couple of months ago. While it doesn't officially support AMH(I assume because the main PCB is physically laid out different from other Spooky games), it wasn't too bad an install really.
And after messing with the settings for about 45 mins I can honestly say it improves the LEDs appearance tenfold on this game. That extremely annoying flicker is almost 100% gone!
I can't wait to play around some more with this great kit! Next thing I want to try changing from non-ghosting bulbs to normal bulbs. In reading about the LED OCD I see those are supposed to be better since you can control them over a wider range. Sounds good to me.
Man I love this game!
1005190931c (resized).jpg1005190931b (resized).jpg1005190931 (resized).jpgQuoted from herg:Nice, creative install. It looks much nicer than mine.
Thanks herg!
Quick question, do you think it'd be worth it to change from non-ghosting LEDs to standard LEDs? Money wise it's not much but time wise it's a little involved. Just curious if it's enough of a "wow" factor to justify.
Thanks again for everything!
Quoted from herg:If you've already used the software to tweak the lower end brightness, I'd say the difference is minimal. I almost always change the bulbs, myself, but I also like to play with color choices.
My daughter and I love to play around with LED colors so that part was done with the switch to the non-ghosting bulbs. And yeah, tweaking that low end really helped a lot! Also depending on the colors, I noticed a little bit of top end tweaking seemed to even out brightness differences. I'm using 70%, 80% and 100% there and I love how the game looks while it's waiting to be played running the demo mode.
I think I'll just leave the bulbs alone then.
1 week later
I'm 99% sure the answer is no but... are schematics available for the PCB?
My game has had an issue with the scoop flasher since I bought it(come to find out this flasher was disconnected before I took possession). If I put a bulb in the flasher it affects other lamps. I tried swapping the lamp controller chip, adding diodes to the flashers since my game didn't have any, checking diodes in about 75% of the lamp sockets, comparing measurements of all the lamp transistors(they all seem good), and I can't figure it out.
I'd love to be able to trace back from the scoop flasher on paper to see where I should be looking. I know I can remove the PCB and do it that way but I like paper.
On top of everything, this is a prototype machine so the wiring is random colors. I've started to trace out the offending lamp row and column wiring to see if maybe there is a transposed wire somewhere but so far no.
Good thing is if I pull the scoop flasher bulb, all the other bulbs work fine-ish. I say "-ish" because once I added an LED OCD I have two bulbs that slightly ghost in the scoop flasher's lamp column. This has motivated me to once again try and fix whatever is going on.
Quoted from toyotaboy:If they did, they've been scrubbed. Homepin practically copied the board/code to run thunderbirds.
Well that's stupid. 
Thanks for the heads-up.
Quoted from benheck:I should ask Charlie if I can put the schematics on Github.
That would be great!
Any idea if there are replacement PCBs available for AMH? I wouldn't mind having a spare on hand... "just in case".
1 week later
Quoted from Betelgeuse:In case you didn't realize, there are no genuine flashers on AMH. Regular super bright LEDs were originally used in the flasher domes. Maybe try a regular LED and see if it works?
Yeah, I did know that but thanks a lot for the suggestion.
I'm to the point of wanting to send this board to someone with an AMH for them to swap into their machine to see if I have a wiring issue or a board issue. I'm usually pretty decent at these things but I'm at a loss right now. I'm really leaning towards a wiring issue but I'd love to verify the PCB one way or the other.
If anyone is up for such a thing let me know.
OR... I'd love to buy a spare PCB to have as a spare. If anybody knows how to obtain one shoot me a PM.
Thanks a ton for the information and the offer on the matrix tester! I can't believe all the information on github... I Google searched so many combinations on Pinheck, schematics, spooky, amh, america's most haunted, etc. and never came across it. THANK YOU!
Right now I am in an email exchange with Charlie and he graciously sent the matrix charts for the prototypes(which includes the wiring harness colors). I'm going to remove the LED OCD this weekend and start fresh with this scoop flasher issue. I have to be missing something simple. It's only a lamp matrix and those have been around forever.
I'll let you know how it goes(hopefully it goes with me being stupid and overlooking something) and if I could use that tester. I can send you a "rental deposit" to ease your mind if I do.
Quoted from herg:I also have a Siegecraft lamp matrix tester and harness that is great for determining whether the driver or wiring is at fault.
http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=11&controller=product&id_lang=1
Just looked at that page, nice. I ended up buying one since I love gadgets and it was only ~$20 shipped.
So I just spent a little while getting the game back to stock and going through the test mode without and then with the scoop flasher installed. Here are the results...
Without the scoop flasher bulb installed... ALL LIGHTS ACT AS NORMAL(except the scoop flasher doesn't light of course).
With the scoop flasher bulb installed...
AMH-lamptest 1 (resized).jpg
AMH-lamptest 2 (resized).jpg
NOTE: The first column in my hand written chart is what bulb is being tested. The next column is what bulbs *in addition to the bulb being tested* also light up.
Also of note, my game did NOT have diodes installed for the "flasher" sockets. According to Charlie they should have(which makes sense) so I added them. The results above are with those installed.
I did notice that I didn't have to actually install a bulb in the scoop flasher to make the craziness above happen. Just putting a diode in the socket resulted in the same nutty results.
Added over 4 years ago:I was wrong in every way so ignore this post. LOL.
Oh geeze... thank you. Will correct that and test again.
I am really, really hoping my stupidity is just masking a simple issue. LOL.
Ok then. LOL. I'll have to trace the wiring back from the PCB to see what color wires my GI4 uses(prototype machine so colors are wonky).
Just so I understand... if you go into test mode and choose GI4 your scoop flasher lights. If you choose scoop flasher then nothing lights?
ROTFLMAO! You are a God amongst men herg!
Sooooo... my machine has a connector for the scoop flasher on the scoop flasher wires AND the GI4 wires.
To add another issue into the mix the GI4 wire was not punched down to the PCB connector when I bought the game. There was a remnant of a wire in what was just discovered to be GI3. So when I fixed this wire I put it back to GI3. LOL.
The extra connector on GI4 never was connected to anything so I just assumed it was a "prototype extra".
Retrminated the GI4 wire to the proper GI4 location on the GI connector... removed the diodes I wrongly added... put a bulb in the scoop flasher and we have a working flasher without any other LED bulbs lighting up!!!
So it was a very simple issue in the end. Thanks for the help herg!
1027191935a (resized).jpg 1 week later
Test fit some spots on the slings last night before bed. Played a couple games and I think I really like them there. The artwork isn't fancy so covering it with two spots per side isn't a big deal.
Going to play some more tonight to get a feel for them before I make the wiring permanent.
Have to say, I was extremely happy with the spot kit from Comet. It came with everything you could possibly need.
Also expecting a brand new Laseriffic AMH topper this afternoon. I remember seeing one at Allentown a few years ago and thinking it was the coolest topper ever. Melissa over at Cointaker just finished a small run of them Monday so I hopped on one as soon as she emailed... soooo looking forward to this!
1106192103b (resized).jpg1106192103c (resized).jpg1106192104 (resized).jpg1106192104a~2 (resized).jpg 2 weeks later
Quoted from billsfanmd:what all comes i the kit. I would like to make mine brighter. I added sling spots but feel needs more.
Sorry for the late response, just saw your post now. The kit comes with everything pictured.
Here is the website page...
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/spotlight-kit
CometSpotKit (resized).jpg 3 months later
Quoted from herg:If I knew it would get the project moving again, I'd buy a drive and ship it to Ben. Hell, this one is only $48.
amazon.com link »
That is extremely nice of you to offer! 
Quoted from Malenko:I could likely get it done in a few days using that...
Drool! We have to get you those files!!!
1 week later
That's fantastic!
I'm in for one of these if/when you sell them. I'd even be in for one in it's current state due to my hatred of all the electronic garbage that's present in the audio.
I have tried everything "simple" to eliminate it. A new amplifier. A new dedicated power supply for amplifier. Some new audio cables. Tried moving the amp into head to make audio path as short as possible. I added multiple ferrite chokes. I messed around with adding and removing audio grounds.
Thanks again for all you do herg!
Quoted from benheck:Most AMH only have one slot populated. Why not just solder wires to the empty pads directly to the DAC?
That looks totally doable...
0325201103_HDR (resized).jpgJust in case this thing goes live, I ordered a PCM5102 DAC from Amazon this morning. LOL.
I'm thinking a little hot glue will hold it to where the empty SD card slot is.
Quoted from herg:I hope you got this one. It will make things much easier for you since it will match my instructions.
amazon.com link »
Yep, that's the one. I ended up using your picture to find the right one.
Here are a bunch of pictures I took during the install.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HGWHa2699hgdh6RNA
The difference is night and day. I added two videos that show how dramatic the change is in my game to the end of the above Google album. It's crazy how quiet it is now. With the new DAC in place the volume level also went up... a lot!
Thanks again herg!
0329201345b (resized).jpgNice job!
Have either of you two noticed you can hear Ben breath at the end of one of his outtakes at the end of the game? Everything really is *that* much clearer!
1 week later
Quoted from taimaster2005:I would say you would need to be fairly proficient in soldering and have a somewhat small iron tip to be able to solder to the small pads. For me it was pretty easy. There are 5 wires to solder.
Yeah, you should be decent at soldering IMO. It's not *that* difficult but you don't want to be practicing on one of these PCBs(are replacement even available?).
If you have a local friend who is comfortable soldering that's always an option.
Quoted from taimaster2005:Nice! I found myself playing a bunch of games on mine as well after doing the audio mod! A few days ago got a 196 million game but my highest is 334 million. Have 2 external subs attached, it's pretty boomy!
Has anybody ever reached Demon Battle? I've owned the game for 3 years now and haven't even got close! My game is set for 3 ball and feel it's impossible to get there.
Wow, nice! I've been close to 200 million a few times and thought that was a battle. I couldn't imagine what it feels like after a 300 million game. (Needless to say, I haven't experienced Demon Battle yet...)
And again, wow... two subs? LOL. I have one Polk and it's boomy enough for me.
Quoted from herg:I just couldn't get this idea out of my head, so here it is.
Why did I just order this? LOL. It reminds me of the good old Wii hacking days I guess so I couldn't pass it up. That and it really seems like a slick solution!
Thanks herg!
1 week later
1 week later
2 months later
Quoted from Lysurgeon:How are people attaching the door to the bracket, then the bracket, to the servo? The screws I was sent are too small to hold everything together. Maybe some pictures or something, I don't know.
I replaced the door servo on our first AMH. It was just a screw holding it to the servo if I remember correctly. I can take some pictures tonight after I get home from work to verify.
1 month later
Quoted from herg:Format the card EVERY time you copy files to it.
This was my problem when I had my issue. Full format cleared it up.
1 month later
Quoted from dung:Now, I don't care what the game goes for. I am not selling mine. Not unless I found a good deal on an huo with the original sideart and wanted to trade out.
What's "original" sideart? The one with the real people on it?
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Yup. It's the green one. I think Charlie told me once they made 10 of them.
I own a green one because that's what Ben wanted it to look like originally.
Got it. I got lucky last year and bought prototype #00004 and it has that artwork. I've owned both artwork packages and for overall looks I prefer the green cabinet artwork with the newer blue backglass. The colors all go really well together.
0602191133~2 (resized).jpg 2 weeks later
Quoted from benheck:I know we said 150 of the ORIGINAL UNIT... but what if we Vaulted this with new art and better mechs?
Booooooooo...
Quoted from benheck:I know we said 150 of the ORIGINAL UNIT... but what if we Vaulted this with new art and better mechs?
If Spooky wanted to do something special I would totally buy a Pinball Zombies from Beyond the Grave!
That is the game that turned me on to Spooky and originally when I put my order in for AMH I assumed Pinball Zombies would be next. Any idea if the original prototype still exists? I've watched the few Youtube videos of the game probably 50 times each. LOL. There's just something I love about that game/theme.
Quoted from zombywoof:That’s what became Rob Zombie. There’s even an homage to it with one of the callouts: “That ramp’s tighter than a zombie cheerleaders ass!”
Didn't realize that. It's cool but there is just something about the original Pinball Zombies artwork that appeals to me.
Maybe they could do something special with Rob Zombie and offer the original art package.
1 month later
Have not had that happen on our current machine(or the one we had years ago).
I'll give it a try with the glass off next time I play.
Quoted from benheck:...and the last one at Spooky has a blown board. Charlie wants me to get a RZ board to work on it...
Any chance of doing a small run of boards for AMH? I'd love to have a spare "just in case".
2 weeks later
Pretty sure I've read either herg or Ben write that if you don't do a full format the files will fragment and not copy correctly to the game. I had an issue because of this in the past and after doing a recovery and then formatting the card correctly it worked fine.
[edit] Actually Ben's site does say fully format and not quick format...
Screenshot_20201224-140122 (resized).png 1 week later
BTW, you can try switching IC3 & IC4 to see if the trouble follows the chip. If it does, you'll have two rows out instead.
2 months later
2 weeks later
4 weeks later
2 months later
Quoted from benheck:Dug up the code. V23 (2016) does support Chris' mod which I don't think he finished?
So yes, the secondary GI bank controls the following:
Bit 0 - Prison Ghost
Bit 1 - Hospital
Bit 2 - Bar
Bit 3 - War fort
Bit 4 - Hotel
Bit 5 - Theater
I believe it blinks the GI when mode active, then solid on after it's won.
Oh but there's more!
Bit 6 is for putting a light behind the Crystal Ball the physic woman is holding on the BG art. When Spirit Guide is lit this GI will also be on, so you can make the ball "glow" in the art if you wish.
Have fun!
This is great info! I'm going to add a spotlight to the Crystal Ball this weekend! 
Quoted from benheck:Bit 6 is for putting a light behind the Crystal Ball the physic woman is holding on the BG art. When Spirit Guide is lit this GI will also be on, so you can make the ball "glow" in the art if you wish.
Have fun!
Just did this little addition and while it is very subtle with the bulb I have in there now, I like it! I'm going to try to get a brighter bulb and probably paint the inside of the tube white to get the most light possible going to the crystal ball.
I found a used 10 pin connector in my stash so I cut it down to 9 pins and left the other wires to play around with. It took me a couple guesses to find bit 6 so I inadvertently verified the some of others flash/light up too. LOL.
Thanks a lot for mentioning these little tidbits.
20210718_121436 (resized).jpg20210718_121448 (resized).jpg20210718_121457 (resized).jpg20210718_121929 (resized).jpg 7 months later
Quoted from Happy81724:What’s the original cab? Was there something different than the one above?
Cabinet, head and backglass of the alternative artwork.
0601191518b (resized).jpg1118191803a (resized).jpg 5 months later
Quoted from icyjones:I believe this can be eliminated by some more extensive modifications, or adding a little board or something. It was covered earlier in the thread. At work, so I can't dig for it, but it can be done.
Yep, it can. Here's herg's first post about his mod he came up with...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/amh-club-a-spooky-start/page/29#post-5539454
And here's a Google Photos album I made when I did the mod...
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HGWHa2699hgdh6RNA
6 months later
I'm going to be listing my AMH prototype game soon. Just thought I'd give a heads-up here in the club thread.
It's a pretty decked out game that has tons of extras/mods.
I have kept a Google Photos album on it since I picked it up so you can see all the work done over the years.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/MtRwZf2jW5o3c9eM7
(Yes, it comes with both styles of backglass.)
I'll be sure to post the marketplace ad once I have time to create it. It's going to take a bit to list all the extras.
Never thought I'd sell but some health issues popped up and I'm clearing everything out.
We've had a basement arcade for over 20 years. I'm really not sure how my wife will fill all that empty space. LOL.
4 weeks later
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