If this was homepin attacking anyone who criticize's something that would be true. In this case spooky responded in a very polite manner. If one side is going to chose to be public the other side should be able to get their say too.

STI dropped off my AMH, sadly they scrapped the head of the cab. Contacted spooky to see if they have a replacement available

Not sure where I could get a qoute about the work aspect, figure I am stuck doing it myself. Scraped, so just need to replace the decal itself.

Sounds like a possibility.

Got back to me 20 minutes after I posted.

Now the bad news. The otherside of the head has a scrape I didn't notice so I will probably just order both and do them at the same time.

Worse news, I bought the game off here broken. Game boots into attract mode. There is a credit dot. Game as described resets when you press the left flipper button. Other buttons on that plug, menu, start, enter, right flipper either do nothing or cause the free play sign on the dmd or scores to flash in rapid succession like you were hammering the flipper buttons.

The coin door switch was wired wrong when compared to my rob zombie. It appears to have been reinstalled, upside down. I swapped that back to match rob zombie. No change. I disconnected the plug for those switches. Connected a wire to the ground pin on that plug, touched the wire to each of the pins, one for left still causes a restart. Guessing a board issue? Wonder if I can test it in my rob zombie by just having sound, power, and that plug for those switches.

They are, but the plugs are the same and I did the same test on RZ. On RZ grounding the switch's pin on the board causes it to act like normally pressing the switch would.

My thought is that when the interconnect switch was miswired it caused 5v to go where it shouldnt and fried the board. Outside of the switches it does appear to be working correctly.

Can someone take a picture of their coin door switch? I want to verify the orientation there are small numbers on the side in the plastic.

Interlock, it takes in 5v and I am guessing the 5v was directed back into the board when it was miswired.

Would appreciate it. Can you also take some pics of the ground wire that leads up to the rail and lockdown bar receiver above the interconnect? I found it was not connected. I have it run like RZ, but RZ stops at that rail, this ground is longer.

No that is perfect. My interlock is a different brand, so its not stock. It was also hooked up wrong. Will wait for spooky to respond to my email on monday.

Tried pulling down a copy of the schematic I found online. Was too small to read so not sure which chips you mean. There are 74HCT244 (or so, from memory) above the switch matrix. I did try swapping those in case one was fried, but no dice. It is not a chip I have on hand. There is also a small socketed chip near the plug for the interlock/flippper/coin door switches.

Open to ideas, could order both these chips and see if that does the trick but unsure?

They are 74HCT244's socketed for the switch matrix. They are the same chips in the RZ version of the boards. Swapped amh's into that just incase there was something frying them in amh. RZ worked fine. Swapped the chips from RZ into AMH, no change in behavior.

The owner spoke up and said that this issue started before he swapped out the interlock switch. The small socketed ic on the amh board near the plug causing issues is for the eprom.

Same, but not sure if I will keep amh. Still need to fix the direct switches before I can play.

If you got permission what would the cost be like? The unfinished part is not that big a deal, someone else might be willing to finish it if they don't have to deal with the technical hurdles.

Still waiting to try mine sadly. Rob anthony has my board and hoping he can work his magic.

Bought it this way. Best guess is the wiring for the topper got the ground to touch the 110 line frying part of the logic on the board. Getting the board fixed has been, interesting but at this point I am getting a replacement...

Finally got the board back last night and got to play my amh. Way better than anticipated. Few issues to deal with.

The apron on this game is a piece of hot garbage. It bends when you lift the playfield? Really? It has gouged my playfield (did it before I even got it). I spent a good long bit bending it to shape so the ball could make it down the outlanes. I did file the outer corners so it woulds top gouging, but ffs what a shit design. RZ is better, but still a poor design. Wonder if later spooky games have improved. I have noticed a progression in design between the two games.

I need to get an rgb strip for the right inside of the cabinet. Mine has 3 leds that show the wrong color. Are they available?

My ghost center is facing left. Guessing I need to take him apart and have him face forward for center? I see no adjust for the ghost in the menu, elevator, spot targets, and door. Am I missing something?

Ball trough needs some adjusting, it tells me ball save half the time I launch. Other than that seems good to go.

He moves just fine and the PO was kind enough to include a spare servo and a few other parts. Problem is Left is facing the back of teh machine. Center is facing the left of the machine. Right is facing forward.

thank you kindly for that.

I will try and do that over the weekend. Is it common for the magnet to release the ball and fall straight down the middle? I have the game leveled at 6.5 degrees and 0 degrees left to right, but when it releases it just falls sdtm. I set it to give the ball a tug when it released and more often than not it gives it some lateral movement to prevent this.

There are several which I found to be a very nice feature. Ball anglish didn't seem to do enough. I will mess with it a bit. Very nice pf layout and really do like the callouts so far.

I am curious what this thing is? My game doesn't have it.

It does look cool. I installed the color display and fixed a spot on the 3 bank.

Still have issues with getting instant ball save. Also found that the door opto never registers. It doesn't even register when you unplug the optos. For comparison the ghost opto registers if unplugged.

Has anyone been getting feedback through the speakers from the lights? I tested my grounds and they are good.

Have both, they are kinda apples and oranges.

RZ is a much more intense game. Find there to be a little more strategy to it via knowing when to cash in chop for ball save.

AMH on the other hand is a harder game in terms of drains. It is offset by the campy humor and in some respects is more laid back.

Serviceability? So so. RZ is worse than AMH. Way too much double sided tape in rz versus screws (even though everything was drilled for screws, they just used double sided tape).

Really the headache with Spooky is some of the poor design choices. AMH's apron is garbage and causes issues (gouging the playfield, bends easily when lifting the machine and once it bends it can prevent balls going back into the trough, balls getting thrown under the apron when kicked into the shooter lan, servo's failing, the idc connector's used instead of molex connectors causing wires to come loose over time).

Have also noticed on rz that at least on mine the ramp for the wireform in the back was probably not placed in the right spot as mine causes balls to hit the wireform and bounce out where the other machine I had did not (nor have any of the others ive played). The wires on my amh had the sheathing cut off well beyond the crimp on connectors and eventually touched frying the board (since corrected).

Is spooky the worst? Not by a long shot. The board design is good, it is reliable. It is serviceable for the majority of things. Once you get past the double sided tape issue most of the assemblies are pretty straightforward to deal with. Parts are easy enough to get, spooky is very helpful even if you bought the machine used. Just understand they have their quirks, but so do all early games from new manufacturers.

Relatively speaking for early games I'd say best to worst?
AP *very very well thought out*
Capcom *Overly thin wiring, interconnect board, dated trough design, parts availability issues*
Spooky *already discussed*
Alvin G *GI burns up, weak 5v line causing resets, awful trough, Good luck finding parts which is the main reason it is so low*
Heighway *Poorly wired, low grade components, poorly thought out plastics on the back that can be broken raising the playfield, easily damaged boards, serialized lighting, lights work out of sockets, everything uses crimp connectors, low grade plastics*

Do you have a file or can we buy it from you? I am getting a list of all the available 3d print fixes that have been posted including your wonky pop bumper post. Want to order them all at once and then next time I am working on the game install everything at once.

Trying to install the hellevator fix but there is not any info. Looking at my game I do not see how you are supposed to connect it to anything? Am I missing something?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2236805

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It works, just amazed that stock there is an exposed screw in a place a ball and can potentially hit. First time I have run across that.

Really fucking starting to hate this machine. Everytime i fix an issue a new one crops up. Currently the door opto won't work with the playfield down. This is just after i replaced the door servo. Before that it was the ghost servo. Game still randomly kicks out two balls sometimes.

Best part is my backglass is seems to peel in spots whenever you move it. Of all the games i work on this has been the biggest god damned headache. Im about ready to take a hammer to the damn thing

Well the opto turned out to be bad connections at the idc plugs. Those are now molex. Then spent an hour tweaking the damn plastic that holds the ghost as it kept causing the servo to bind when turning right

My guess on the double ball launch is the kicker having so much slop it can hit the switch but that is just a theory.

I would love to know. It is a nightmare to get everything right when you do have to take it apart.

If anyone wants the pcb to solder to their amh mobo let me know. I have extras due to minimum requirements. I have 2, willing to ship em out on my dime so first come first serve.

Welp, did the update. I used the .88 for the lcd files as I upgraded. The update ran. Then sat at rebooting, but never did. Turned it off after awhile, no display, no sound, game runs in attract mode and will start a game, but not enough juice to kick out a ball. Need to figure out how to force a reinstall. Tried reformatting the card again, but its not detecting a new version.

So far no dice. I have tried using the recovery method herg lists for the chroma lcd install, but no change. Pulled the dac off, two traces came with it, woo fucking who. Still dead. Walking away from this for now, fucking tired of pinball for the day.

Already emailed herg back, but after getting a new sd card and having to push a few times, it works. I reinstalled the new dac. One of the traces pulled is not needed, so no loss. The other was pulling away from the board but a drop of super glue is holding it down.

Sound quality is massive. My machine had a horrible hum in attract mode, gone. The audio is crystal clear in game. Very big improvement and very pleased.

Would also add buy a new sd card. My original went bad when I tried to update. Refomatting did not fix it.

Wouldn't give mine up for that title, but good luck.

If you did it solely off averages per pinside 1200 cash to him plus amh.

BK Prem is falling in value if you look at the last few sales. Newer games tend to do that unless they are out of production and highly sought after. This could change if it got a major code update that radically improved its standings, but otherwise it will continue to go down in value for a bit before leveling out. Right now this seems to be in the low 6's , but with people dumping for Avengers listing it at 62-6400 would probably have it sitting for a bit. (assuming no major mods and huo here).

AMH would depend on what it has. 150 made and if someone is wanting one they will pony up, but it can also end up sitting waiting for a buyer. Pinside values are handy if a game is stable/unchanged, but since they are historical major changes that affect value are not factored in. Major code updates that change perception of the game, major mods, sudden upticks in interest (this used to happen when streamers would feature games, radical is a good example), etc. In AMH's case sales history does not reflect the color display addition or the sound upgrade. Last sale had it but they listed low, even compared to the prior several sales. HUO, fully decked out game would probably hit 6k+ especially heading into the christmas selling season which includes october.

That all said, if I were Crile1 I wouldn't do an even trade for an amh. Would be better off selling it, being patient and waiting for someone to list, although given the rarity if he has to do shipping it could cost more, so its waiting for one within driving distance. As an AMH owner I wouldn't do an even trade unless I really wanted a bk prem. Long term it will go down in value. I don't see amh radically climbing unless it becomes a flavor of the month, but it will hold its value and average prices will probably creep closer to 6k with the current mods available. Just my opinion.

Have also seen a stock huo sell for 6500. It all boils down to if someone is wanting an amh at the time which I said. Look at my collection. Have owned plenty of low production games and I know how selling them goes. I can throw out my jolly park, usa football, or mystery castle. All 3 hard to find and depending on when I do it they can sit for months in which case the price will drop in part because they haven't sold. The longer it sits the lower you have to go to entice someone. On the other hand if someone is looking for it they will sell fast and at the upper end or above the market (depending on condition and mods). Reason being is some people in this hobby have deep enough pockets that they don't care to wait.

Now, I don't care what the game goes for. I am not selling mine. Not unless I found a good deal on an huo with the original sideart and wanted to trade out. I just said why Crile1 most likely wouldn't do a straight swap, and why I don't think its worth taking his bk prem even if he would.

Not seeing it. Love the game but too much needs to change.

Fixed geometry so the 3d print parts are not necessary. Full rgb lighting, including inserts which means updating the pf art. Hi res graphics for the display so it is modern. Updated mechs so it is reliable, but unlesd you are adding some wow factor no one will care.

Why not just make a sequel with the same crew fighting new ghosts? Gives you a lot more freedom to modernize.

Installed the kimballs pinball lit speakers. Noticed that i do not get the purple they show. Looking at my playfield led strips one seems off. Should they both be different colors for the playfield or do i have a board issue?

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I thonk both strips are bad. The left is always pink and the right jas the three locked on as green. The mod is working correctly tho. Ben anything special about the led strips?

Btw would recommend the mod. It has a clear 3d printed spacer for the speakers. Much much better looking than having then stuck to the inside of the speaker panel.

Sweet, knocker support. Would love it.

I would wait and see what spooky says before ordering.

No. Use what is calls for.

I would definitely be interested.