America's Most Haunted
Spooky Pinball, 2014
Spooky
Zaccaria, 1987You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider dnapac.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
I’m sorry that Ben and Charlie have had their differences and falling out...but I have seen Ben post a few things in a few threads slamming Charlie. A rebuttal from Charlie is what was needed, for the rest of the story. Now, let’s all move on. Pinball is in its next renaissance, and in a good place with all players involved.
I’m watching for an AMH…when we were in Benton this weekend we played the one at Lawrence’s and fell in love. I’ve always been intrigued, but what a game! Fun to play and funny as hell. I’m in on Medisinyl’s mod set…now I just need the machine!
Quoted from dnapac:I’m watching for an AMH…when we were in Benton this weekend we played the one at Lawrence’s and fell in love. I’ve always been intrigued, but what a game! Fun to play and funny as hell. I’m in on Medisinyl’s mod set…now I just need the machine!
Thanks all who helped (here and in FB land). We found an incredible AMH. Joe George, you were incredible to buy from! Can’t wait to get the white armor, Medisinyl mod set, and Laseriffic topper! We’re officially in the club!!
Quoted from P1nhead:So start cleaning up the game as soon as it was setup at home. Notice there is a wire unplugged under the playfield - that's a servo. Replugged and nada.
Warning flag for this game was when the seller had it all shrink wrapped and unable for me to play when I got there. Wanted to be one of 150 so bad I didn't care - not a big deal but being told 100% perfect and then clearly the servo was bad for the ghost and disconnected is not quite 100%. Maybe it is an honest mistake. Maybe the galactic center aligned with the stars and the servo just happened to become disconnected during the 15 minute drive and also happen to burn out.
Go to remove the servo from the mount and the plastic mount crumbles as the screws come out... I am glad spooky has dialed in their FDM a little better than this (just look at the nonadhesion between layers).
Now to find the replacement servo.
[quoted image]
Contact Luke at Spooky. I’m sure he will help you with the part.
Quoted from benheck:Oh cool!
Nightmare would be a killer theme but you'd have to deal with the nightmare of Disney.
There was someone on here who did a great one off of nightmare…but it died. I think that was it because of the big bad D.
White Armour, topper, and ghost shooter rod. Next is Medisinyl mod set and replace the rubbers with glow titans. Playfield is near perfect. I can’t find any major wear.
07F769C0-5CAA-4054-BE2F-89FA3BAA693C (resized).jpeg5832A582-FC71-446C-B022-D94EFC44C68F (resized).jpeg9AC3A620-66C7-4E24-89CC-E82EEF13D643 (resized).jpegE1837E3D-420B-4B7A-A97E-130AE2183D0D (resized).jpegQuoted from P1nhead:I have that armor on order... will get here whenever our Halloween #68 gets here. Looks sharp!
#68…congratulations…you’ll love Halloween! We have #12 and about 400 plays…so much fun. As far as AMH…we fell in love with it. We are going all out on this. A blast to play, great toys, but on the easier side, which appeals to our friends and is a great balance for our collection. Plus, the call outs are stellar!! 
Quoted from Betelgeuse:Yup, Ghostbusters Premium didn't last a year in my lineup. AMH has been here for 7 years now.
Is your game really easy? I find it more on the brutal side, myself. I have only got to the Demon Battle one time, and struggle to even get to Bumps In The Night. That's part of what keeps me coming back to it!
When I say “easy” I don’t mean I’ve mastered it, I mean the shots are easier to make compared R&M or ACNC. This game is definitely challenging, and a ton of fun to play. Will be part of our collection for a long time.
Quoted from benheck:It's CGC not Spooky so guessing not?
Should be pretty cool Pete has done an amazing job with the mechs and NO SERVOS ALLOWED!
So, I’ll ask the source. My door seems…weak. I blast it open and then the ball gets stuck behind it because it holds the door closed. Is this a servo issue. I’ve tried the servo settings, but eventually it seems to sag and becomes a problem again. Taking the glass off is the only way to free the ball resting against the door. BTW…version 23, and loving the game!!
Quoted from benheck:Does the ball get stuck behind the door? Spooky added a lot of ball trap fixes as the game went through its production.
One hit and the door opens, but then starts to sag. Another hit and it may go in the gobble hole, which is good, or may go behind the door and then shutting it. The ball rests behind the door and then it seems to not have the power to open until the glass is removed and the ball is cleared.
I’ve tried to tighten the screw in the servo where the door attaches to it…with no change
Servo replaced! Made the door work much better. Two questions.
1). The ball (2nd ball, 1st is in the gobble hole) occasionally gets the door open enough to get stuck in the gobble hole with the first ball and pinned by the door. Good news is that ball search will clear it now (before the servo was so weak the door couldn’t open to let it clear). Is there a way to prevent this? If not, I can live with it. Like I said, it will clear with ball search.
2). I know Ben has added an adjustment for the servos (like the door). I’ve gone into the service menu and to servos, but it doesn’t let me “adjust” them, just makes them work…kinda like a coil or switch check. Am I missing how to adjust them.
Thanks for you help. Love this game. A ton of fun to play and built like a classic car. Built well, and the owner can easily service them. I kinda like servos (sorry Ben). No soldering to replace them, just a couple screws and a plug.
Quoted from benheck:There's a plastic piece that was added during production - it goes behind the door and if a ball is stuck there, when the door opens the plastic pushes the ball into the VUK. Is that what you need? (Spooky could help)
What version code? Can't remember when I added it, but later versions of code yes you can tweak the "open and closed" positions of the door, hellavator, etc.
I know what plastic piece you mean, when I reinstalled it, I may hav left too much gap… I’ll check. I have version 23 installed.
Thanks!
Thanks for all your help! I found the fine tune settings in the service menu, and tightened the door screw to the servo. It’s much better, but I now know the problem. When the door is closed and I hit it with the ball. It doesn’t return to the closed position. It moves slightly towards the closed position, but doesn’t return to full closed. It slowly is forced opened with multiple ball hits. Any ideas. Everything else works great. And I have switched the servo out to a new one.
Quoted from Betelgeuse:Like herg was getting at, it could be the servo bushing (round gear-like thing) that attaches the servo to the door arm is missing some teeth, or something else is stripped out there? Did you change the bushing out with the servo?
Thought about that when I changed the servo…so it’s new. I’ll try reseat it again. Otherwise is opens and closes strong…no problem.
No worries. This will get sorted. I think I’ll upload a video if it continues. We are loving this pin. It may get figured out when I do the tear down for Medisinyl’s mods…can’t wait for this. I’m in the second batch, so may be late October/early November.
Quoted from herg:There really are only a few possibilities I see for the door getting pushed back and not returning.
1. The servo could be broken. You've addressed that by replacing it.
2. The servo to bushing interface could be slipping. You've replaced the bushing, but I'd still check by hand to see if it slips.
3. The door arm could be broken. That should be easy to see.
4. The door could be rubbing something and binding up when trying to return to closed. You would be able to hear the servo buzzing and feel a vibration if this were the case.
5. Some weird software issue that is triggered by a broken opto or something like that. This seems like a longshot because the servo is always driving to a target location, and the only targets I know of are open, closed, and the wiggle when you hit the door. None of these target locations would drift over multiple hits.
Agree with all of this. I think I’ll make a short video tonight and post it. Sometimes fresh eyes can give the answer (and it’s usually something dumb that’s being missed). It works perfect (fast and strong) when it either opens fully or closes fully, but just has trouble returning to closed when hit by the ball and becomes partially open. I’ve got to be missing something easy…I’ll get on that video. Thanks everyone.
Here’s what I got. Sorry, I shot this by myself and I have a little trouble with aspect and actually pointing it correctly at the servo. It’s nice and clear though. What am I doing wrong? I have to be missing something (probably an easy catch) but I’m stumped.
Quoted from herg:That definitely looks to me like the bushing is slipping. It never returns to fully open after that, right? Not even if you turn the game off and on again?
Ok. I have a few replacement servos. I’ll replace the bushing again. It actually returns to full open after it clears and opens again. Full open and full close always work.
<blockquote cite="
Quoted from herg:If it does return to fully closed, that's likely not the problem. I can't think of what the problem would be, but it's not likely it would just slip back into place. Hmmm...
Could it be some weird glitch in code? I have a Medisinyl mod set coming and was gonna see if my tear down and replacement fixed it. Replacing code seems kinda cumbersome, but maybe I’m just over thinking it. What ya think. Thanks for all your help.
I’ll replace the bushing (easiest). Next I’m gonna get a new left flipper coil (has been possibly auto flipping since I bought it (hard to tell if it’s just too sensitive). The original owner noted it and adjusted it, but maybe it needs to be replaced and is causing some weird electrical issue. I have blown the right most coil fuse twice). Next is see if the tear down and rebuild with the new mod set helps. Finally redo the code. Does this seem reasonable? We love this pin and are going all in to make it incredible (a few great mods). It’s in incredible shape and worth it.
Quoted from herg:The left flipper auto flipping is a setting, something like "Doctor Ghost Attract" that is intending to let you know to look for a ball coming down the left ramp. It also has a bug in it that will blow the fuse if you hold the left flipper button while it happens. If you disable that feature, you likely get two items fixed easily.
Making sure the bushing is a good fit sounds like the best action. I'm skeptical that it's code related.
Good info! I also suspect the bushing. Everything else is good. I’ll check for that setting and set it correctly. Thanks for all the good info!!
Quoted from benheck:So how would ya'll feel about a follow up America's Most Weird (urban legends)?
I think it’d look good next to AMH!
Thank you all for your help (especially @herg). The door is now 100%. Even though I had replaced the bushing when I replaced the servo…it was kinda stripped. A new bushing was all that was needed. My game plays great! No complaints.
Quoted from icyjones:Are there any instructions anywhere for adding the AMH armor from Spooky? I picked up a set from them while getting my Halloween CE. Also, should I just mainly reuse the screws/bolts?
When removing the side rails be very careful. When they put them on, they used double sided tape. About 3 inch lengths. One near the flippers and one near the center. Over time these have become ultra strong. Use a hair dryer to gently heat the rail and this the tape. Use a plastic/resin pry tool (like you use to remove the inner panel of a car door). Heat and gently pry until it lets loose. If you get into trouble and it starts to rip the side art decal, cut the decal under the rail with a box knife. There will be damage to the decal, but this will be limited to under the new rail. Otherwise…ya, use the screws and bolts from the original.
Quoted from icyjones:Great tips! I am not in a huge hurry to get it on. Figure I might do it all at once with the new Mod set comes.
Is there black vinyl that goes underneath the eyes of the ghost near the buttons on the side armor pieces?
Also, just do one side of the hinges at a time I figure, right?
I might DM you when I go to do it, as it sounds like you just recently got it done.
Yup. Hinges 1 at a time. Didn’t see any black vinyl for the ghost eyes. Did this within the last month. Really easy, but almost messed up my decal side art because the tape was so strong. I actually pulled off the top layer of laminate from the cab, but was able to cut with a box knife. Only a small defect, all under the new armor. Then I used the hair dryer. Just DM me if you have any questions. It’s really not hard. Just go slow.
Quoted from ThatGuyBo:Finally got around to wiring up the topper and installing plastic protectors.
Seems to be getting a little more love now.
[quoted image]
Looks great! My topper didn’t show the red light in the windows very well, so I took a flimsy, white cutting board and cut it in the shape of the house (I think 3 separate pieces) and slid these between the from and the back…reflecting the red light out the windows. It made the red light much more evident.
DEC0752F-647C-4036-9C11-37E64955E18A (resized).jpegQuoted from herg:The base is a pretty easy question. That's a standard Williams base.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-right-staked-flipper-base-sub-assembly.html
If you have to replace the coil stop as well, that's a bit more tricky. It sure would be nice to have a published BOM.
Sorry, yes coil stop. That’s what i meant. I can’t find what one is used. If I buy a complete flipper assembly…does it matter what coil stop I put in there?
Quoted from herg:Yes, it does matter. Different stops will affect the travel of the flipper. My best guess would be a A-12390, but that's just based on the most commonly used stop on WPC games. Do you have calipers to measure the height of the cylinder portion?
From Marco's A-12390 description:
"Overall length of bracket is 1-1/4in, overall width of bracket is 1-7/16in, overall depth of bracket is 7/8in, distance from screw hole to hole measures 7/8in, and core length is 5/16in."
That’s what I’ve ordered as that seemed to fit correctly. We will see. If it’s different, I guess coil stops are cheap and easy to swap out. I’ll try post if this is correct or not.
Quoted from Medisinyl:45 total sets, which includes the set that's in my game, and set #2 that was gifted to Spooky (not sure what the fate of that set was).
So 43 out there beyond those.
They were a hand numbered, limited set, and no longer available.
Totally changes the look of the pin…really makes it what it was supposed to be. I wouldn’t call this a mod…I’d call it a total pin enhancement. So tankful I got one!
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider dnapac.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/amh-club-a-spooky-start?tu=dnapac and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Alton, IA
Maple Ridge, BC