The thunder & lightning effects are awesome.

I got mine a couple weeks ago, it was used as the booth game at TPF. Enjoying it, no regrets at all - I look forward to seeing what is next. Just wishing I had more time on it as I've been swamped since I brought it home.

One nice surprise is that I had predicted that the call outs would be instantly old and I'd have to change them - but instead I have found them way more funny when playing the game so they'll stay. I might add some Slayer to the soundtrack though...

One thing I have been doing is poking around on the code (love open source!) and considering what I might want to try. One idea right now is altering the debounce logic on the tilt to allow for one hard move (with a warning). Another is to allow for the flipper button to cycle through the attract mode so I can get to scores faster. I'm no programmer, so it'd be a complete hack.

FWIW, I've found the code to be organized and well documented - enough so that while I haven't fully got my arms around it I have been successful in following what is happening in general and been able successfully explore.

I'm excited to see what people come up with in the future. Why I don't have any desire to reprogram the game, I think that coming up with bugfixes/slight tweaks without having to harass Ben is a good thing.

May I recommend anti-rattle tape - or electrical tape - on the edges of the glass. With "all that bass" it really helps calm the rattles.

I added it this evening - was huge. I had the volume turned almost all the way down before just to avoid rattle.

I think you left your initials on my game....

I made a few improvements-

1) On the suggestion of 85vett who had come over to help LED, I taped this piece of opaque heavy mylar underneath the ghost cut out on the apron. Now when the game is off the ghost shows up white, but more cool is when the game is on the light under the cut out has something to light up which looks MUCH better. We used a color changing LED on a flex stem so that it sits closer to the apron.20150418_230511.jpg

2) I got sick of the cheesy machine screw/lock nut way of mounting the Apron and installed size six speed nuts instead and now use wood screws. It's now a simple operation to remove the apron, similar to other games. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-6-32-tpi-Plain-Steel-Type-U-Speed-Nuts-2-Piece-800048/204276061 20150418_230528.jpg

3) Added a blue start button I had laying around. 20150418_232141.jpg

Ask KT!

Made a quick video tonight to show LEDs, Topper, Hotrod Apron Ghost Mod, blades, start button, etc.

And release v19.

FYI, ring chart just added. I need to replace my blacks. White or Clear?

http://www.spookypinball.com/game-support/
Rubber sizes for AMH
4 – 2.5″ rubber
2 – 3/16″ ID rubber (small purple posts)
4 – 3/8″ OD rubber (small spike posts)
4 – 3/8″ ID rubber (star posts)
4 – post sleeves 1 1/16″
2 – Standard Flipper rubber

This has been on my list to fix this problem. I'm also getting stuck behind the basement and have to nudge to get the ball to foll into the hole. I expect this to be an easy fix, I just need to do it.

High score this morning, even with a house ball.

Massive multiball, only a couple ghost bosses.

20150509_111504.jpg

Titan competitive lt blue rubber looks outstanding.

I also made a modification to the little metal ramp at the end of the shooter lane to hopefully eliminate ball hang ups at the basement. Mine hung off into the hole and the screw was catching the ball. Used the Dremel to cut off the corner as the ramp is plenty secure without the 4th screw.

20150508_225040.jpg

ICYMI - This is from Spooky's FBpage.

9 piece AMH plastic protector sets! Protect all those possible breakage areas with a high tech (not really) completely incredible (not even slightly) PLASTIC PROTECTOR SET!
Only $25... and we should have them on our website by May 13th, or just email [email protected] to get yours.

I gotta hand it to Charlie - I asked him on Monday to sell me a set of plastics so i could have another company make protectors, and he came back in a few hours with a newly designed set of protectors. Awesome.

Chase quick pay, via bank account, works very well. most large banks use something similar and kt should be able to take it.

Yes, that is always the answer!

the CT kit is better than stock for sure. I do think they used a little too much orange though! I used pink for the War Fort and some sunlight for in other places.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/eIcWIKB2mAM?autoplay=1&rel=0

Drive down to Round Rock and play all you want!

Drain kick 4
Ball loader 8
Autolauncher 7
Right Scoop 1
Left VUK 6
Pop Bumpers 5
Slings 2
Flippers 2

YMMV, and I'm not sure i have it tuned perfectly yet, like I had before I lost the settings.

I think they are still maybe too strong. It's a logarithmic scale I think, so the change between 1 & 2 is way bigger than between 8 and 9. Not sure why.

It's an option. At $25 (I think)it might as well be free though. Easy choice.

At first it was a lot for me - but now Its WAY better - search my posts for a modification I made to the shooter ramp metal behind the hellavator. A better more aggressive ball search with lots of movement/ghost movement would take care of most all issues.

+1 on all counts

Warning - I'm not a programmer, and am I'm not sure exactly how coil strength/PWM/etc works; however, I did stay in a holiday inn last night and feel that this was a good way to procrastinate so here are some thoughts. caveat emptor.

Looking at the flipper activity, the coil strength never changes. However, for the normal flips the high power it seems to be limited to a time of 50 :

#define holdTop 50 //250 //Used to PWM the hold coil on flippers

However, for the flipper "wiggle" seems to be on a timer of 100 - so the coil stay on high power longer. (note, by high power I'm talking about flipper action vs. flipper hold). I did not check to see if the modetimer and the "holdtop" specification are on the same cycle - so I may be completely wrong . Those blowing fuses could try shortening the timer window below. Since my coil strength is so low it may not matter for me.

if (restartTimer) {

if (hosProgress[player] == 3 and modeTimer) { //Giving the ball back? Make sure players know flipper works!
modeTimer -= 1;
if (modeTimer > 11000 and modeTimer < 11100) {
digitalWrite(LFlipHigh, 1); //Wiggle the flipper!
}
if (modeTimer > 8000 and modeTimer < 8100) {
digitalWrite(LFlipHigh, 1); //Wiggle the flipper!
}
if (modeTimer > 4000 and modeTimer < 4100) {
digitalWrite(LFlipHigh, 1); //Wiggle the flipper!
}
}

}

A couple other meaningful excerpts to describe normal flipper activity:

if (bitRead(cabinet, LFlip) == 1 and LFlipTime == -1) { //Left button pressed?
leftDebounce += 1;
if (leftDebounce > flipperDebounce) {
leftDebounce = flipperDebounce;
digitalWrite(LFlipHigh, 1);
LFlipTime = FlipPower;
rollLeft();
flipperCheck += 1;
}

FlipPower = (coilSettings[0] * 30) + 1; //30; //FLIPPERS Gives a range from 1 to 271

Then this is what moves the flippers from high power to hold power:

if (LFlipTime > 0) {
LFlipTime -= 1;
if (LFlipTime == 0 or leftEOS == 1) { //Did timer run out OR EOS hit?
digitalWrite(LFlipHigh, 0); //Turn off high power
LholdTime = holdTop + 5; //Set PWM timer
//digitalWrite(LFlipLow, 1); //Switch on hold current
}
}

So you can see - with the previous post that if you hold the flipper it is held on high power for 55 cycles - and I'm thinking that is less than the 100 cycles that the wiggle is used for in the precious post.

What I'm confused about is the interaction between all the timers and the coil strength.

I need to go to work now, but hopefully this gets someone thinking.

I love the mode restart. I wouldn't miss the flipper attract at all though - players will be conditioned to play the ball.

tu71586 , I'd let Charlie know - if nothing else, he can verify the right part. If you want to take care of it on your own, Check pinball life out - I think it's the switch below. If you're not comfortable with soldering, you may be able to carefully remove the metal part of the new switch and put it on yours - provided the little axle nubs are still in tact. I am not for sure, but that swich may have a connector in the wiring so you can remove it from the game to make it easier.

Good luck!

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=829

No. There is some data like matricies and rings on the website. Since most parts seem to be bought from Pinball life, I'd love it if Terry'd set up all the parts they sell for it in the game specific section for AMH.

Have you updated to the current code? The ball saver grace period logic was fixed in the last release.

That still doesn't do what you suggest, which would be nice, but i think it gets you most of the way there.

Spooky beta tests new code by sending it out on the latest machines before posting (if it succeeds) to the main page for the rest of us to download.

I just don't have a lot of stuck balls. I still get one every now and then in the pop bumpers, but that is something that a more aggressive ball search would fix. (Hear that Ben?? )

That's what I remember. There is some door switch option in the menu, I know I had to change mine for some reason -maybe that's it.

Please make ball search more aggressive (a double round, faster between pops, something). Also recommend starting a ball search if a pinball is missing upon startup. The other day I shut it down when the ball was in the subway, then when I started up it wouldn't start because the ball was in the scoop. The switch registered but no kickout or ball search so I had to go into the test menu to fire the scoop kick.

I'm not sure, but I hope you are checking in with Charlie.

I saw the same photo hunt bug today on v20.