Do most people get ticking sound from time to time. I’ve replaced the wires up to the connector and the audio cable. Crackling went away but there is still a ticking that comes and goes. Would it be the wires that run from the connector to the head speakers?

If it’s common how do I fix it?

Ticking sound? It's kinda hard to say without hearing an example. I will say that the audio is not the greatest, even when it's all working properly. As Ben mentioned, the source is 22kHz, so that's already affecting it. The stock DAC output on board is also not as good as what you may be expecting from modern audio equipment.

I just had a super fun game. Is bumps in the night the final wizard mode?

B8DBB75C-3C47-4E45-A35D-057FCCE72935 (resized).jpeg

Mega score. My high is 95 mil. I consider myself an improving Pinball novice though.

That was close to my high score previously but somehow I was hitting every shot on this one. It’s very rare for me to do well but every once in a while there is a glimmer of hope game which keeps me going. I dont understand how I can be so bad most of the time and then have a solid game

Bumps in the night is the mini wizard mode. Finish all the ghost battles to reach Demon Battle

Nice! Thanks!

So I've encountered some financial setbacks this month, and now I'm considering parting with my Medisinyl-Mods AMH Conversion set. I know I'm probably gonna regret it later, but since I still don't actually have an AMH, it's the fiscally smart thing to do right now.

The set was made after the 3rd revision, and was one of the last ones shipped out. So if you missed out on the Medisinyl Mod set for AMH, and would like one, message me and we'll see what we can work out.

053281f74678f1a2f0d8e284cc27eb5329e04b32 (resized).jpg

Where did folks buy their art blades? I can’t find any

Mine has mirror blades. I don't mind the way they look, but my left sided one doesn't fit that well.

Mine came from Mi Pinball Refinery years back but they don't have them on their website any longer - may be worth asking?

This is where I got mine.

https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/americas-most-haunted-pinblades

Thanks all, I’ll probably go with the pin graffix

These are new and kind of neat!

https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/america-s-most-haunted-spook-pinball-holograffix

Someone buy this from Mike. Unobtainium becomes available!

Jaz

These are the same as the ones I have

But I like these ones more!!

I actually ordered them. I’ll take a pic with them on

Those are sharp. I wonder if they would look better than the mirror blades with the new Mod Kit.

Alright guys.

I am stuck and can't seem to get the double emitter for the optos to work. I posted on this awhile back and finally have the time to fix it. I was getting the "dirty pool" error and was told to replace all the optos. I contacted spooky and they said to use the williams ones from pinball life. I replaced both on the double emitter and one reciever. Nothing. Have voltage on the board and both recievers react to light on a meter. I then bypassed the board on a bench and sen 5v to a set of emitters wired in series and still could not get them to switch the "reciever". I'm fairly certain its the double emitter. Am I using the wrong optos for replacement? Any insight would be great. I had the first Medisinyl mods set and have not even been able to play a game yet. Are replacement double emitter boards available?

Thanks for the help

'Dirty Pool' is triggered by the optos under the minion ghost. Are these the optos you are replacing? As far as I can see, there is just one single emitter and one receiver under there on my AMH. I had the issue once where 'Dirty Pool' was getting repeated and it was a loose connection on the opto board, but guessing you've already reseated the connectors. You can check to see if your emitter is lighting in the game by looking at it with your cell phone camera, since it will see the IR light.

There's a double ended emiiter between the ghost magnet and the door. The receivers are to the left of the door and right side of magnet.

Dirty Pool is triggered when you manage to get a ball behind the target bank when it's not supposed to be there. If the targets go up and a ball ISN'T supposed be to trapped behind them the magnet pulses to pull the ball to center. If it breaks the beam, Dirty Pool.

If dirty pool is happening with no ball it means the IR emiiter isn't emiiting. The receiver thinks a ball is still there because the beam "appears" to be broken.

Are Williams optos used in the double emitter? I can't seem to get the replacements to do anything. Is a replacement board available? It should be noted i have 5v on the opto supply board

Emitter was a QED123 I believe: https://www.newark.com/on-semiconductor/qed123/infrared-emitter-100-ma-900-ns/dp/31Y3727?CMP=KNC-GUSA-GEN-KWL-DSA-RLSA-Lapsed-Customer15off-ELEMENT14&mckv=syOhQI7Wz_dc|pcrid|569133458578|plid||kword||match||slid||product||pgrid|14770054701|ptaid|aud-820070380478:dsa-48861850012|&gclid=CjwKCAjwloCSBhAeEiwA3hVo_QT11GQ_GJQBVG8HFi-b5lDRKFvLyGvzoiB5TioxrWAWWZSjXpkpyBoC9qEQAvD_BwE

And no, AMH was all 3D printed jank-ass shit, including the double emitter mount. I think they soldered the (2) emitters ass-to-ass parallel. Good it's been what 8 years now?

Can you measure the voltage across only the emitter? That would tell you the part itself is pulling current and should be working. My phone camera can also see the emitter light.

Edit: I just noticed Betelgeuse recommended the phone camera before I did.

May not work on iPhone (has IR filter)

Here's the original schematic, still pinned to my wall for some reason. So yeah, IR present, detector saturates and pulls high. No IR, the pulldown takes the signal low (new Pinotaur games work same way)

PXL_20220328_170751764 (resized).jpg

I ordered these and will give it a try.

Across the emitter I am getting nothing. Will update with the new ones. Hopefully this weekend.

That's crazy it's just hang there. My android s21 can't see it either

Thanks for the help. Hopefully this is the answer

Any guesses as to how long til we see the winner of the Deeproot AMH check in on this thread? I was at TPF and had a tab open for the auction, but without knowing why it wasn’t functional I wasn’t quite willing to bid. It wasn’t really the price (plus hammer fee and tax), or the non-functioning status, but that combined with the logistics was just too much.

Somebody is going to have an interesting story to tell with that machine.

I wonder if it just broke or if somebody tried to back engineer the PCB (like Homepin argh)

I don't know if there's any spares left. Charlie wanted me to find a way to run AMH on the RZ/Jet/Dom boards but I haven't gotten around to it.

Weren’t the files to recreate the board used in AMH available online at one point? Did you take them down after the whole Homepin ordeal?

Spooky might have a few spares. The board itself can be repaired it's pretty simple. Unless certain parts became UNOBTAINIUM!

You mean like nearly everything silicon based currently?!?

As many of you know who have a color display (Either the kit from Herg or pin2dmd) the colorization is not done. There are a few of us owners who are willing to pitch in money and help get this done. Its currently at $500 USD. If you are an artist that can do this or would like to pitch in and add to the pot jump into the

Color Display for America's Most Haunted - Looking for Artist forum

Lets collectively get this completed!

Funny you say that, the QED123's I ordered to fix the double emitter are only available from newark and shipped from the UK!

If you're seeing nothing, as in 0V, that's odd regardless of whether they're the correct emitters or not. I forget exactly where all the parts sit, and where wires run, but if power is connected to the emitter, you would only see 0V if it were shorted.

You may have already seen this, but this post has a bit of info on troubleshooting the optos.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/amh-club-a-spooky-start/page/22#post-4503824

Well 10 months later and the dirty pool problem is fixed! Thanks for all the help everyone. After having the wrong emitters and receivers luckily Ben Heck had that old diagram on the wall with th part number. One of the double emitter boards is definitely the problem. Ended up having to eliminate the boards completely but it finally works.

If the design for the board is available I would like to get some new ones printed.

Screenshot_20220329-063351_Chrome (resized).jpg

Is this the correct one? If so, it's so simple that I can't hardly believe that anything would go wrong with it. Still, it's so cheap from OSHPark, that if you suspect it, you might as well try.
https://github.com/LonghornEngineer/Pinheck_Pinball_System/tree/master/Hardware/Opto%20Emitter

emitter (resized).png

I have struggled with GI flicker since I first got my AMH. Since it was only certain bulbs, I thought it was bad connections in the sockets. I replaced all of the slingshot and inlane guide sockets, but I still had flicker.

The bulbs also seemed dimmer than they should be, even knowing that it's a 5V source. This weekend, I measured the voltage, and I was only getting 4.35V to my bulbs. Considering the LEDs I'm using are designed for 6.3V, it's no surprise that they are having issues.

After some digging, I found that the transistor used to control the GI is a TIP102, and I measured a 0.72V drop across it. I decided to replace it with an IRL540, and it has definitely helped the dim lamps. It seems to be helping with the flicker as well, but it will take some time to be certain. The lamps are still only at around 5.05V, so pretty low compared to the 6.3V the bulbs are designed for.

Edit: The flicker is not gone, unfortunately. I guess that the bulbs are still shifting in the socket or something to cause intermittent connection. I squeezed them for a tight fit, and none of my other games have this problem. A problem for another day.

Got my pin2dmd installed and really enjoying it. Thanks for putting the colorization effort together @herg! Really impressive!

Anyone have their amp settings dialed in nicely and willing to share them? I’ll be going down later to tweak a couple things and wanted to see if i could improve the sound more while i was at it. Thx.

Anyone try a ground loop isolator on their game? I get a lot of static/noise on mine.

I believe this can be eliminated by some more extensive modifications, or adding a little board or something. It was covered earlier in the thread. At work, so I can't dig for it, but it can be done.

Yep, it can. Here's herg's first post about his mod he came up with...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/amh-club-a-spooky-start/page/29#post-5539454

And here's a Google Photos album I made when I did the mod...
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HGWHa2699hgdh6RNA

Ah, so it's the DAC. Thanks guys!

Even after adding a dedicated DAC, it's still 22kHz source material, but it's greatly improved. Since you already did the display upgrade, you're already running the updated AV firmware. You would "only" have to do the hardware portion of the mod.

Can I run and install the dedicated DAC without having the color dmd installed? I have thought about the color upgrade, but do kind of like the green as I think it fits with the "night vision" aspect of ghost hunting. Upgraded sound would be great though.

Yes. Use the files under item 1. at this link.
http://ledocd.com/amh_external_dac/

Thanks for the clarification @herg. I wasn't confident that the two firmware revs were one and the same. Ordered the DAC and have my soldering iron ready to go

P.S. Have people mostly been soldering wires directly to the board? I saw some folks were working on ~adapter boards to maybe clean it up a bit.

I really don't know what people are mostly doing. I would suggest using the adapter board, but I will also say that I have not seen any pictures of it installed. My game already had a SD card slot installed in the second location, so I did not use the same adapter for mine.

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/GgMSjTo4

Cool. Ordered the adapter given it's only $11 shipped for 3 of them (min order).

I won't need 3--anyone wants one message me. Maybe I can just toss one in an envelope?

AMH's DAC was a hack. You can blame me!

But it was cheap!