http://ledocd.com/files/AMH_Jump_Shim.zip

Awesome! Thanks (AGAIN) herg!

Looking forward to it as well. Thinking the pinball life spots wired into the GI below pf.

Here are a few pictures.

0618192008a (resized).jpg

0618192009 (resized).jpg

0618192009b (resized).jpg

0618192011 (resized).jpg

Nice! Where are the spots? Which place did you get led strip from on back panel?

Still shocked Stern used our flaky jump ramp idea in Deadpool. It's just not consistent enough.

In New code versions you only have to make the jump 3 times total (at any time) to qualify theater ghost. Easiest I could make it.

Whoa! That post on the left of the scoop must make it really tough to hit. Lots of times mine bounces in from the side.

It’s unique and I like it! One of the many reasons I own an AMH.

No spots yet. I may add one on each sling in the future aimed in a crisscrossed pattern. The RGB LED strip I got from a friend I've done lighting work for. It was just a leftover piece we had from previous projects. I've seen 5m strips on eBay for $11 shipped. Actually, here's a 5m one with a cheap controller for $10.50...
https://ebay.us/YriLqx

I thought it would but I don't think it's too different... I'm already used to it I guess. I was thinking of getting a Cliffy and removing the post but I kinda like that it's different.

I think you beat yourself up too much on the ramp. It's not that bad at all IMO. I still haven't added the "clothespin fix" and I don't find myself cursing it.

So herg... going through this thread I see you added an LEDOCD board to your game. Think it makes a big difference? I replaced all the stock LEDs with anti-ghosting LEDs and it's made the stock flicker better... but it's still kinda noticeable. I'd love to be able to totally eliminate it.

Thx Jeff. Amazing how cheap led lighting is. If I got that kit How do you wire it into your game fro 12v? If I bought a roll I would need to cut it and find some sort of wiring/connectors to use the rest of the roll. You cut those rolls at the 4 copper tabs at whatever length you like?

I do think it makes a big difference, but I don't have any of the Spooky boards left, and I don't plan to build more. What I do have is some custom code that increases the PWM frequency by changing how the rows and columns are ordered, call it OCD-lite, if you want. It doesn't use any extra CPU time because it's only reordering the row/column transitions.

The custom code that I run on my game has this alternate driver as an option, among other enhancements. I promised Ben I wouldn't distribute it, though. The code for the lamp driver is posted somewhere around here, and you could compile it into the v22 code if you wanted. The v23 code was never officially released.

Hi everyone,
I have a spooky rod zombie and a alice cooper, I am looking at purchasing AMH but would just like to know what you all think of it and if I should purchase it.
cheers

Haven't played Alice Cooper, but I own AMH and RZLE, and AMH is a better machine. The artwork and music on RZLE is fantastic, but from a pure gameplay standpoint and the campy humor, I enjoy AMH more.

I have AMH and "had" a RZLE. AMH is different, unique and a fun pin.

Have both, they are kinda apples and oranges.

RZ is a much more intense game. Find there to be a little more strategy to it via knowing when to cash in chop for ball save.

AMH on the other hand is a harder game in terms of drains. It is offset by the campy humor and in some respects is more laid back.

There is a reason AMH is at the top of our Wishlist - it’s just awesome. It’s like a fine wine, it gets better with age. There aren’t too many in Australia (I heard 8), so if you do find one, you may need to act fast.

I bent the metal around a little, and I got mine pretty good. Way better than the Deadpools I have played.

rd

Would love to hear from owners on reliability & serviceability of the machine (& if parts are easier to come by & fix).

My Spooky machines have been the most reliable new pins I’ve owned.

rd

Thanks @rotordave, I was hoping you would post your experience. I am busting to get this machine

Fly over and play mine.

rd

The only real weak point with AMH is the servo motors. They can easily burn up if a mech gets jammed. I always keep a box of spares and tend to lose at least one every year or so, but fortunately they are cheap.

As for game play, I havent played ACNC yet, but I still consider AMH to be Spooky's best game. It may look hokey, which makes many people dismiss it without hardly flipping it, but it's a solid player with a good rule set. Its the only game Ben Heck designed for Spooky. I have had mine since new. I had a RZ for a while too, but didnt really care for that one myself.

Serviceability? So so. RZ is worse than AMH. Way too much double sided tape in rz versus screws (even though everything was drilled for screws, they just used double sided tape).

Really the headache with Spooky is some of the poor design choices. AMH's apron is garbage and causes issues (gouging the playfield, bends easily when lifting the machine and once it bends it can prevent balls going back into the trough, balls getting thrown under the apron when kicked into the shooter lan, servo's failing, the idc connector's used instead of molex connectors causing wires to come loose over time).

Have also noticed on rz that at least on mine the ramp for the wireform in the back was probably not placed in the right spot as mine causes balls to hit the wireform and bounce out where the other machine I had did not (nor have any of the others ive played). The wires on my amh had the sheathing cut off well beyond the crimp on connectors and eventually touched frying the board (since corrected).

Is spooky the worst? Not by a long shot. The board design is good, it is reliable. It is serviceable for the majority of things. Once you get past the double sided tape issue most of the assemblies are pretty straightforward to deal with. Parts are easy enough to get, spooky is very helpful even if you bought the machine used. Just understand they have their quirks, but so do all early games from new manufacturers.

Relatively speaking for early games I'd say best to worst?
AP *very very well thought out*
Capcom *Overly thin wiring, interconnect board, dated trough design, parts availability issues*
Spooky *already discussed*
Alvin G *GI burns up, weak 5v line causing resets, awful trough, Good luck finding parts which is the main reason it is so low*
Heighway *Poorly wired, low grade components, poorly thought out plastics on the back that can be broken raising the playfield, easily damaged boards, serialized lighting, lights work out of sockets, everything uses crimp connectors, low grade plastics*

Yep, you cut the strips to length where those copper tabs are.

As far as wiring, you have to tie it in to the existing RGB wiring which is +12v, -Red, -Green, -Blue.

Hmmm... didn't realize v23 was unofficial? It's included at Ben's AMH page so I figured it was official?

Thanks for the information. I think I'll post a WTB post to see if there are any stragglers out there not using their AMH LED OCD. If that falls through I'll have to look into that custom code you made.

And I have to thank you for sharing your 3D files for the Wonky Star Post and the Clothespin Ramp Spacer. The ramp spacer has *TOTALLY* change my ramp shot. I hit that shot 4 times in a row yesterday which I could never do before. It makes the shot so smoooooth now.

The firmware release IS Ben's official release. It's just that the source wasn't released along with it.

It was really designed more for RZ than for AMH. It plugs directly into the board, and the connectors are placed differently between AMH and RZ. You would have to add cables and Z-connectors to get it to install properly.

I'm glad to be able to. I agree that the ramp is no problem with the "clothespin" installed. When the shot is hit solid, it makes the jump. I even had to put a roof on my landing area because the ball would sometimes take flight and hit the left cabinet wall.

What is this clothespin mod?

And yes I regret using servos. On paper they sound great and are easy to program but man they die if you look at them sideways. I know there are a couple in ACNC but I personally swore them off.

Betelgeuse did it first using an actual clothespin. I copied his idea using a 3D print. It adjusts the end of the ball guide and also extends it a bit to avoid having the ball hit the end of the ramp wall.

fc08c24b103b4137aff1ca658d85b145d4219157 (resized).jpg

Yeah, I saw that in your directions. Shouldn't be an issue... as long as I find one.

I'm glad to be able to. I agree that the ramp is no problem with the "clothespin" installed. When the shot is hit solid, it makes the jump. I even had to put a roof on my landing area because the ball would sometimes take flight and hit the left cabinet wall.

I have my flippers set to 4 so I'm not getting that amount of flying. First time around I did... so much so it broke the switch over in the landing area. LOL.

Good luck. If you are willing and able to assemble a board with SMD parts, I'll give you a bare board. It would still need programmed, though.

I have a fix for a separate issue in this area:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2236805

Thanks a lot for the offer! I may have found one though...
https://www.pinballshop.nl/pinball-leds/led-ocd-control-board/led-ocd-spooky/?sl=en

They are on vacation until July 3rd so I won't know for sure until then.

Go for it! There is not many in Aust. I brought one of the original 6 pins(#140) that came down under. Still have it, just a fun unique pin.
Like you I have a RZ, with ACNC Very very close now waiting on pickup details from Chris. AC is going next to RZ and TNA.

Lots of great info here . Mine looks like pinball refinery and has the flipper fidelity sub. It really rattles the whole game. I have the bass all the way down on the black controller inside the coin door. But I like call outs louder. Are call outs controlled in settings or is the master volume for everything? Would love to up call outs but keep sub down a bit. Thx for any help

Man, I took so much crap on here for that mod back when I first came up with it. Good to see it's now helping people who had the same jump ramp problems I had! I still have that same half-clothespin installed in my machine and it's working great.

pics of mod? how did you install it?

Herg's fix shown above is basically what it is, except I used half of a clothespin in that location instead of a 3D printed part. The concave part of the clothespin hugged that post and kept it in place.

Is it that you get rejects or it just doesn’t go up the ramp smoothly?

As an original AMH owner, I’ve had the game a while and added a few mods. I sort of forgot about this one. I’m not to great at flipper skills, so I don’t make the ramp very often, I just assumed it was me.

My two most common AMH issues are “lost” ball and stuck ball.

“Lost” ball is 99% under the apron that somehow jumps out of the trough.

Stuck ball is much less common but just outside (toward the side wall) of the left wireform.

Any fixes for these out there would be appreciated.

Do you have a pic, please?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2069598

does it go in the bottom of the trough?

no, snaps on top. the cutouts are for the gate. The issue is there's too much gap between the trough walls and the apron.

Okay great and thank you.

In my game the ball would not go up the ramp, it'd hit into the metal ramp wall and be rejected.

The "clothespin" extends the ramp a bit more so it aims the ball actually at the ramp and not the ramp wall.

I've gone from hitting the ramp shot 31.48% of the time to hitting it 82.81% of the time.

While not the finished product, this shows the placement for the sweet spot on my AMH. The screw (ultimately replaced with a nail) kept the balls coming from the ORB lanes from dribbling through that area. Some people said they found success with the clothespin pushed in further to where the concave part of the clothespin hugged that post. I'm sure it depends on the alignment of these parts on your particular AMH. I did this because the ball guide was throwing the ball into the edge of the 'railing' on the right side of the jump ramp and balls were just rejecting like crazy. After I did this, I have been getting smooth shots from that ramp shot ever since. It may not look too pretty, but it's completely hidden under the ramp. Still, if herg's fix was being made at that time I would have definitely opted for that!

Betelgeuse_jumprampfix (resized).jpg

At one time there was a "first floor" exit for the Hellavator. That's why there's an opening below it and this curve doesn't stretch further. We should have fixed that.

One in my showroom for sale get ya cheque book out

One I have in Melbourne fully modded with topper for sale

Is there an adjustment on the menu to raise volume of just the call outs?

thx

Pretty sure there is not.