(Topic ID: 124615)

AMH Club - A Spooky Start


By goatdan

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,256 posts
  • 156 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by dung
  • Topic is favorited by 37 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 222 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

98B57310-B543-4CF1-AF46-16CE04452C4E (resized).jpeg
72B58BC5-9709-49BC-8625-7648EE31AB4E (resized).jpeg
AMH scoop 2 with instructions (resized).png
AMH Scoop with instructions (resized).png
AMH (resized).jpg
P3241878 (resized).JPG
thumbnail_IMG_4294 (resized).jpg
thumbnail_IMG_4293 (resized).jpg
P3161849 (resized).JPG
20190316_093216 (resized).jpg
P3141832 (resized).JPG
AT0.gif
L9A.gif
L6A.gif
B0Z.gif
AT0.gif

There are 1256 posts in this topic. You are on page 25 of 26.
#1201 14 days ago

Finally got the board back last night and got to play my amh. Way better than anticipated. Few issues to deal with.

The apron on this game is a piece of hot garbage. It bends when you lift the playfield? Really? It has gouged my playfield (did it before I even got it). I spent a good long bit bending it to shape so the ball could make it down the outlanes. I did file the outer corners so it woulds top gouging, but ffs what a shit design. RZ is better, but still a poor design. Wonder if later spooky games have improved. I have noticed a progression in design between the two games.

I need to get an rgb strip for the right inside of the cabinet. Mine has 3 leds that show the wrong color. Are they available?

My ghost center is facing left. Guessing I need to take him apart and have him face forward for center? I see no adjust for the ghost in the menu, elevator, spot targets, and door. Am I missing something?

Ball trough needs some adjusting, it tells me ball save half the time I launch. Other than that seems good to go.

#1202 14 days ago
Quoted from dung:

My ghost center is facing left. Guessing I need to take him apart and have him face forward for center? I see no adjust for the ghost in the menu, elevator, spot targets, and door. Am I missing something?

Does your ghost move? If not, the servo is likely dead. Servos burning up is a common fault. If it DOES move, there is not a center position adjustment, only a min and max. You would have to disassemble and center the ghost mounting adapter on the servo hub.

Likewise for the other servo controlled stuff. Only the endpoints are adjustable.

#1203 14 days ago
Quoted from herg:

Does your ghost move? If not, the servo is likely dead. Servos burning up is a common fault. If it DOES move, there is not a center position adjustment, only a min and max. You would have to disassemble and center the ghost mounting adapter on the servo hub.
Likewise for the other servo controlled stuff. Only the endpoints are adjustable.

He moves just fine and the PO was kind enough to include a spare servo and a few other parts. Problem is Left is facing the back of teh machine. Center is facing the left of the machine. Right is facing forward.

#1204 14 days ago

On boot the ghost should be looking pretty much straight down the middle but slightly towards the right flipper.

Best way to adjust loosen plastic around ghost, boot game let servo goto position then push ghost down in place and re-tighten plastics.

There's also a menu option for tweaking servo positions and extremities.

#1205 14 days ago
Quoted from benheck:

On boot the ghost should be looking pretty much straight down the middle but slightly towards the right flipper.
Best way to adjust loosen plastic around ghost, boot game let servo goto position then push ghost down in place and re-tighten plastics.
There's also a menu option for tweaking servo positions and extremities.

thank you kindly for that.

I will try and do that over the weekend. Is it common for the magnet to release the ball and fall straight down the middle? I have the game leveled at 6.5 degrees and 0 degrees left to right, but when it releases it just falls sdtm. I set it to give the ball a tug when it released and more often than not it gives it some lateral movement to prevent this.

#1206 14 days ago

No the ball is supposed to fall onto the left flipper.

Maybe it's being bumped by the drop target bank? You can also tweak how low it travels in the menu.

I think (can't quite remember) there's a setting for "Ball release english" which tugs the ball a bit when releasing it to randomize its path.

#1207 14 days ago
Quoted from benheck:

No the ball is supposed to fall onto the left flipper.
Maybe it's being bumped by the drop target bank? You can also tweak how low it travels in the menu.
I think (can't quite remember) there's a setting for "Ball release english" which tugs the ball a bit when releasing it to randomize its path.

There are several which I found to be a very nice feature. Ball anglish didn't seem to do enough. I will mess with it a bit. Very nice pf layout and really do like the callouts so far.

#1208 14 days ago
Quoted from dung:

The apron on this game is a piece of hot garbage. It bends when you lift the playfield? Really? It has gouged my playfield (did it before I even got it). I spent a good long bit bending it to shape so the ball could make it down the outlanes. I did file the outer corners so it woulds top gouging, but ffs what a shit design. RZ is better, but still a poor design. Wonder if later spooky games have improved. I have noticed a progression in design between the two games.
I need to get an rgb strip for the right inside of the cabinet. Mine has 3 leds that show the wrong color. Are they available?
My ghost center is facing left. Guessing I need to take him apart and have him face forward for center? I see no adjust for the ghost in the menu, elevator, spot targets, and door. Am I missing something?
Ball trough needs some adjusting, it tells me ball save half the time I launch. Other than that seems good to go.

The led strips are just standard 12v RGB strips very easy to replace. The apron has done that on others amh's as well what they did is put small piece of milar on the spot and bend/file down the corner alittle. My 1st amh had the same issue with the apron and i did that to fix it and i added a 3rd led strip in thebackbox .

#1209 14 days ago

I just got my AMH and it is a blast, but i had my first repair last night. I noticed the far right stand up target for the ghost stopped registering hits. I was lucky it was a simple wire broke off at solder on the switch. This must be a common fix where the wire is constantly flexing from the target bank going up and down.

#1210 14 days ago
Quoted from Rascal-911:

I just got my AMH and it is a blast, but i had my first repair last night. I noticed the far right stand up target for the ghost stopped registering hits. I was lucky it was a simple wire broke off at solder on the switch. This must be a common fix where the wire is constantly flexing from the target bank going up and down.

Yeah i had the same thing happen to mine and at least its a easy fix.

#1211 14 days ago

It's that damn hippy lead free solder to blame!

#1212 14 days ago
Quoted from benheck:

It's that damn hippy lead free solder to blame!

I’m so glad I can imagine your voice and tone as I read this.

#1213 14 days ago

AMH is still at the top of my wishlist, but they are quite hard to find here in Australia. I'm always looking, so hopefully it will happen one day soon. Reason for this post, I was informed by an AMH owner in Australia that all of the AMH machines that made it to Australia had their back glass peeling. Has anyone had this happen to their AMH? If so, how was it resolved (since it is way out of warranty)?

#1214 14 days ago
Quoted from ausretrogamer:

AMH is still at the top of my wishlist, but they are quite hard to find here in Australia. I'm always looking, so hopefully it will happen one day soon. Reason for this post, I was informed by an AMH owner in Australia that all of the AMH machines that made it to Australia had their back glass peeling. Has anyone had this happen to their AMH? If so, how was it resolved (since it is way out of warranty)?

Yeh BG is pealing but Spooky are sending new ones to Australia in container with ACNC’s and some TNA’s due end Juneish. Even though out of warranty Spooky are replacing them for us. Cheers

#1215 13 days ago
Quoted from ausretrogamer:

AMH is still at the top of my wishlist, but they are quite hard to find here in Australia. I'm always looking, so hopefully it will happen one day soon. Reason for this post, I was informed by an AMH owner in Australia that all of the AMH machines that made it to Australia had their back glass peeling. Has anyone had this happen to their AMH? If so, how was it resolved (since it is way out of warranty)?

I have an AMH in the showroom

#1216 13 days ago
Quoted from Pinball_Freak:

Yeh BG is pealing but Spooky are sending new ones to Australia in container with ACNC’s and some TNA’s due end Juneish. Even though out of warranty Spooky are replacing them for us. Cheers

They charged me

#1217 12 days ago

Looking at getting back in the club. have a few leads...

I saw one tha tjust sold that had these upgrades:

Glow in the dark rubbers
Side lighting
Speaker light kit
Cabinet protectors
Light up flipper Buttons
Pinblades
Custom led ring in ghost area
Green glow mod under targets
Interactive LED in the back and backbox

where do most upgrades for AMH come from? The custom led ring for ghost amd target glow mods sound cool.

#1218 12 days ago

I am trying to order a set of pinblades right now. Takes the stock graphics to a new level.
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/americas-most-haunted-pinblades

#1219 10 days ago

Huge shoutout to herg for the tips on improving the scoop. I just swapped out for the latest model from Pinball Life and using his 3d printed switch bracket and wonky star post was able to get this AMH #62 playing the best it’s ever played I think. I dropped the subway down 3/4 of an inch to match up with the scoop eject as well and had no issues at all through a game with the glass off and then 3 with the glass on. If anyone else is having scoop issues I strongly suggest giving this fix a try. For about $100 you can elevate $6k worth of headache.

#1220 10 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Huge shoutout to herg for the tips on improving the scoop. I just swapped out for the latest model from Pinball Life and using his 3d printed switch bracket and wonky star post was able to get this AMH #62 playing the best it’s ever played I think. I dropped the subway down 3/4 of an inch to match up with the scoop eject as well and had no issues at all through a game with the glass off and then 3 with the glass on. If anyone else is having scoop issues I strongly suggest giving this fix a try. For about $100 you can elevate $6k worth of headache.

I'm really glad it helped you, but I can't take credit for the scoop replacement idea. crile1 did it before I did. It really does make a great game work as well as it deserves.

#1221 10 days ago
Quoted from herg:

I'm really glad it helped you, but I can't take credit for the scoop replacement idea. crile1 did it before I did. It really does make a great game work as well as it deserves.

Thank you crile1

Posted video for anyone who wants to see how it’s working now.

https://www.facebook.com/1564994063541685/posts/2758186677555745?sfns=mo

#1222 10 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Huge shoutout to herg for the tips on improving the scoop. I just swapped out for the latest model from Pinball Life and using his 3d printed switch bracket and wonky star post was able to get this AMH #62 playing the best it’s ever played I think. I dropped the subway down 3/4 of an inch to match up with the scoop eject as well and had no issues at all through a game with the glass off and then 3 with the glass on. If anyone else is having scoop issues I strongly suggest giving this fix a try. For about $100 you can elevate $6k worth of headache.

Sorry, I'm a bit out of the loop here. What issues were you having and how exactly did you fix it?

#1223 10 days ago
Quoted from pipes:

Sorry, I'm a bit out of the loop here. What issues were you having and how exactly did you fix it?

Ball not ejecting consistently. I installed a new scoop mech from pinball life with open back. I used a 3d printed switch mount from herg. I then lowered the subway 3/4 of an inch as well using spacers and longer screws so that it allows the balls to go into the scoop at a better level for better ejects.

#1224 10 days ago

Thank you. I definitely don't have consistent ball ejects from that scoop but had no idea there was a fix for it.
Can I trouble you for the links to the scoop mech and switch mount? Much appreciated!

#1225 9 days ago

Okay, so all credit goes to crile1 and herg for this improvement of scoop performance on AMH. This is AMH #62 (I believe) and as some folks have previously mentioned in this thread it is likely that spookycharlie & company at some point during the builds of AMH already modified this scoop part so if yours is working great let it be. What was happening on mine is the scoop eject was not consistent. Often times it would take 3-5 attempts to get the ball back into play, typically the ball just falling back in while it attempted to eject and on rare occasions getting stuck on the edge or between the post and rubber on the far right side of the scoop. In a home environment, I never minded this as I knew it would eventually come out, or I could just open it and fix the stuck ball quickly (long story I'm the original owner of this game, I picked it up at Spooky, had it for about 2 years, sold it to a pinsider in new york who had it for about 2 years, last month it was bought back by a close friend who wanted to operate it at my location). My players at my location were annoyed by this behavior and frequently complained to me about it, and I was annoyed with them being annoyed so I decided something should be done. I read through this thread and saw largely what herg had done and copied him, he let me know he was copying crile1 and in the end, we all have better games so thank you.
Parts you will need:
1 Open back scoop from pinballlife https://www.pinballlife.com/scoop-weldment-assembly-with-open-back.html (roughly $90 shipped)
2 1/4'' or 2 1/2'' screws to replace the originals that hold the subway (less than $10 at Home Depot)
Spacers (I picked up several 1/4'' 1/2'' and 3/4'' inch so that I could get the subway just where I wanted it. If they make 1/8'' ones not a bad idea to get some of those too). The goal is to drop the subway height down so it no longer sits so high above the ball when it is in the scoop. Measuring my game it was 3/4'' above the scoop ball landing, it is now maybe 1/16''-1/8'' above the scoop ball landing.
Soldering Iron & solder
Phillips-head screwdriver & 1/4'' nut driver (taking off optos, attaching new bracket, and removing old scoop & attaching new scoop)
Optional Part:
Longer switch for in the scoop something like this https://www.pinballlife.com/sub-microswitch-with-19-straight-flat-actuator.html
Step 1: Remove the original scoop switch from original scoop mechanism
Step 2: Take pictures of coil wiring, desolder original coil, and remove the original scoop mechanism.
Step 3: Remove optos from the new scoop, save them for spare parts.
Step 4: Attach new 3D Printed Switch bracket to new scoop, and then the original scoop switch to this bracket, add hot glue or other adhesive
Step 5: Install the new scoop mechanism in place, rewire coil now or later, up to you.
Step 6: Undo original screws holding subway in place, using new longer screws and spacers lower it so that the subway and scoop ball landing area are basically level.
Step 7: While having the playfield still out, turn the game on and enter into switch test mode (recommend turning on the voice, it is switch 22). Drop balls in from the top of the scoop to make sure switch is registering every drop. Make adjustments as necessary. When satisfied that the switch is 100% registering lower playfield, and now drop ball in through rear entrance behind Hellavator and again make sure the switch is 100% registering a ball that enters the scoop from this path. Once satisfied throw the glass back on and enjoy how well your AMH is playing.
AMH Scoop with instructions (resized).png
The blue arrows show you how I have dropped the subway as well as the additional spacers and longer screws I have used to accomplish this.
The pink box and arrows show you how the subway and the scoop ball rest area are now essentially level with one another.
The green box is highlighting the entire new scoop mechanism from pinball life. It comes with optos but you will remove those, and now have some spare optos for your parts stash. Save the screws as you will need them to attach the new 3D printed switch holder and the original scoop switch to that.
AMH scoop 2 with instructions (resized).png
The purple boxes here show you where the optos were. I removed them and saved the screws to use to attach the new 3D printed switch bracket (circled in green) from herg to the scoop, and then use the other two screws to attach the actual switch to the bracket. This switch took a good amount of adjustment to get to reliably register, but I played several games after install and it worked every time. I also used some 2-part 5-minute epoxy to make sure the 3d printed part would stay attached to the scoop, as well as hold the switch. herg used hot glue, he was concerned the holes in the bracket were too big and the screws wouldn't have a good hold, the screws from the optos seemed to work well and get a good bite on the bracket, but to be safe I also added the adhesive. In the end, I wish I had a hot glue gun as I'm sure that would have been easier, faster, and not as regrettable when I need to make an adjustment to the part in the future. I would recommend ordering a new switch with your scoop personally. Probably something like this https://www.pinballlife.com/sub-microswitch-with-19-straight-flat-actuator.html but I would measure the arm on the current switch first before you place your order, essentially the one on there is just a tad short so if you could one a bit longer it wouldn't hurt.
I do have a cliffy already installed on the machine and I kept it in place with the new scoop although I doubt it is entirely necessary I would like to keep this machine as nice as possible for my friend while it is on location.
While doing this mod I also took the time to install herg 's Wonky Star Post mod in the pop bumper area and it has seemingly alleviated that issue as well. http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=35&zenid=cpa2snppqe62hbe56e4db40u33
I can honestly say that playing the game last night was some of the most fun I have had on it since initially owning the game 4+ years ago. Most importantly I hope my customers will be happier and I will now feel more comfortable using this game in our league and tournament events. I did not mess with my scoop coil strength at all, right now it is shooting out very fast as you can see in the video I shared to the location's facebook page (linked above). If holding the flipper up the kick-out does break the hold and cause the ball to shoot back up the playfield (typically it was hitting the Hellavtor call button stand up target, or going up the bar/war ghost lane) so I left it playing like that. If I flipped away at it I was often hitting either the ghost or the right orbit. I may mess with this setting, or more likely just leave it as it is right now because I like the game playing hard and fast.
Again huge thank you to crile1 and herg for their work. Hopefully, this helps a few more of you out there improve your AMH gameplay. Any other questions let me know I will do my best to help answer.

Video: www.facebook.com/NorthEndPubPinball/videos/345875979400315/

#1226 9 days ago

My scoop fires every time but the delivery seems erratic. Originally the coil was so powerful that it would break the low power hold of the left flipper but dialing it back in the software resulted in SDTM drains.

I changed the coil down to a 23-1200 and the results were great with a nice soft delivery to the right flipper, but occasionally I still get a SDTM or a really weak dribble hitting the top of the sling.

Has the new scoop changed the consistency of the eject?

#1227 9 days ago

Awesome write up tsskinne! Thanks for taking the time to post all the details of that fix. That is very helpful.

#1228 9 days ago
Quoted from CraigC:

My scoop fires every time but the delivery seems erratic. Originally the coil was so powerful that it would break the low power hold of the left flipper but dialing it back in the software resulted in SDTM drains.
I changed the coil down to a 23-1200 and the results were great with a nice soft delivery to the right flipper, but occasionally I still get a SDTM or a really weak dribble hitting the top of the sling.
Has the new scoop changed the consistency of the eject?

It still shoots out very hard but it is super consistent. Check out the video on the facebook link I posted. I think I counted 17 identical ejects from the scoop in a minute.

#1229 9 days ago

On the hunt to get one back. A friend of mine who is a much better player and in the hobby longer told me the only problem he had with the game is that it is impossible to beat. Even with the settings set easy as possible. Said the game is just too hard to beat so it gets frustrating. Ive never come close to beating any pin but wondered if that's an issue with any one on here.

#1230 9 days ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

On the hunt to get one back. A friend of mine who is a much better player and in the hobby longer told me the only problem he had with the game is that it is impossible to beat. Even with the settings set as easy as possible. Said the game is just too hard to beat so it gets frustrating. I've never come close to beating any pin but wondered if that's an issue with anyone on here.

I never beat it the first time I had it, but with extra balls turned on I beat it about 3 weeks ago. Just put things together and had an amazing game. Also, I have to say the code is great, and the Demon Battle really felt like a big deal, kind of like Final Battle on The Shadow to me....like you just knew holy shit okay here is the Wizard mode. I had never seen it before and the light and sound choreography let me know exactly what I needed to hit and it was just up to me to do it. Haven't been back since, don't know if I will make it again, but man I'm looking forward to trying.

#1231 9 days ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

On the hunt to get one back. A friend of mine who is a much better player and in the hobby longer told me the only problem he had with the game is that it is impossible to beat. Even with the settings set easy as possible. Said the game is just too hard to beat so it gets frustrating. Ive never come close to beating any pin but wondered if that's an issue with any one on here.

I've only beaten it once as a NIB owner. Most games I'm not even close. It seems to be a game you really need to stay on to start putting back to back good games on. I find if I move to other games and come back, I just plain suck at it for awhile. Not so with my other games. Could be purely mental, but that's my observation.

#1232 9 days ago
Quoted from robertmee:

I've only beaten it once as a NIB owner. Most games I'm not even close. It seems to be a game you really need to stay on to start putting back to back good games on. I find if I move to other games and come back, I just plain suck at it for awhile. Not so with my other games. Could be purely mental, but that's my observation.

Sell me yours

#1233 9 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Okay, so all credit goes to crile1 and herg for this improvement of scoop performance on AMH. This is AMH #62 (I believe) and as some folks have previously mentioned in this thread it is likely that spookycharlie & company at some point during the builds of AMH already modified this scoop part so if yours is working great let it be. What was happening on mine is the scoop eject was not consistent. Often times it would take 3-5 attempts to get the ball back into play, typically the ball just falling back in while it attempted to eject and on rare occasions getting stuck on the edge or between the post and rubber on the far right side of the scoop. In a home environment, I never minded this as I knew it would eventually come out, or I could just open it and fix the stuck ball quickly (long story I'm the original owner of this game, I picked it up at Spooky, had it for about 2 years, sold it to a pinsider in new york who had it for about 2 years, last month it was bought back by a close friend who wanted to operate it at my location). My players at my location were annoyed by this behavior and frequently complained to me about it, and I was annoyed with them being annoyed so I decided something should be done. I read through this thread and saw largely what herg had done and copied him, he let me know he was copying crile1 and in the end, we all have better games so thank you.
Parts you will need:
1 Open back scoop from pinballlife https://www.pinballlife.com/scoop-weldment-assembly-with-open-back.html (roughly $90 shipped)
2 1/4'' or 2 1/2'' screws to replace the originals that hold the subway (less than $10 at Home Depot)
Spacers (I picked up several 1/4'' 1/2'' and 3/4'' inch so that I could get the subway just where I wanted it. If they make 1/8'' ones not a bad idea to get some of those too). The goal is to drop the subway height down so it no longer sits so high above the ball when it is in the scoop. Measuring my game it was 3/4'' above the scoop ball landing, it is now maybe 1/16''-1/8'' above the scoop ball landing.
Soldering Iron & solder
Phillips-head screwdriver & 1/4'' nut driver (taking off optos, attaching new bracket, and removing old scoop & attaching new scoop)
Optional Part:
Longer switch for in the scoop something like this https://www.pinballlife.com/sub-microswitch-with-19-straight-flat-actuator.html
Step 1: Remove the original scoop switch from original scoop mechanism
Step 2: Take pictures of coil wiring, desolder original coil, and remove the original scoop mechanism.
Step 3: Remove optos from the new scoop, save them for spare parts.
Step 4: Attach new 3D Printed Switch bracket to new scoop, and then the original scoop switch to this bracket, add hot glue or other adhesive
Step 5: Install the new scoop mechanism in place, rewire coil now or later, up to you.
Step 6: Undo original screws holding subway in place, using new longer screws and spacers lower it so that the subway and scoop ball landing area are basically level.
Step 7: While having the playfield still out, turn the game on and enter into switch test mode (recommend turning on the voice, it is switch 22). Drop balls in from the top of the scoop to make sure switch is registering every drop. Make adjustments as necessary. When satisfied that the switch is 100% registering lower playfield, and now drop ball in through rear entrance behind Hellavator and again make sure the switch is 100% registering a ball that enters the scoop from this path. Once satisfied throw the glass back on and enjoy how well your AMH is playing.
[quoted image]
The blue arrows show you how I have dropped the subway as well as the additional spacers and longer screws I have used to accomplish this.
The pink box and arrows show you how the subway and the scoop ball rest area are now essentially level with one another.
The green box is highlighting the entire new scoop mechanism from pinball life. It comes with optos but you will remove those, and now have some spare optos for your parts stash. Save the screws as you will need them to attach the new 3D printed switch holder and the original scoop switch to that.
[quoted image]
The purple boxes here show you where the optos were. I removed them and saved the screws to use to attach the new 3D printed switch bracket (circled in green) from herg to the scoop, and then use the other two screws to attach the actual switch to the bracket. This switch took a good amount of adjustment to get to reliably register, but I played several games after install and it worked every time. I also used some 2-part 5-minute epoxy to make sure the 3d printed part would stay attached to the scoop, as well as hold the switch. herg used hot glue, he was concerned the holes in the bracket were too big and the screws wouldn't have a good hold, the screws from the optos seemed to work well and get a good bite on the bracket, but to be safe I also added the adhesive. In the end, I wish I had a hot glue gun as I'm sure that would have been easier, faster, and not as regrettable when I need to make an adjustment to the part in the future. I would recommend ordering a new switch with your scoop personally. Probably something like this https://www.pinballlife.com/sub-microswitch-with-19-straight-flat-actuator.html but I would measure the arm on the current switch first before you place your order, essentially the one on there is just a tad short so if you could one a bit longer it wouldn't hurt.
I do have a cliffy already installed on the machine and I kept it in place with the new scoop although I doubt it is entirely necessary I would like to keep this machine as nice as possible for my friend while it is on location.
While doing this mod I also took the time to install herg 's Wonky Star Post mod in the pop bumper area and it has seemingly alleviated that issue as well. http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=35&zenid=cpa2snppqe62hbe56e4db40u33
I can honestly say that playing the game last night was some of the most fun I have had on it since initially owning the game 4+ years ago. Most importantly I hope my customers will be happier and I will now feel more comfortable using this game in our league and tournament events. I did not mess with my scoop coil strength at all, right now it is shooting out very fast as you can see in the video I shared to the location's facebook page (linked above). If holding the flipper up the kick-out does break the hold and cause the ball to shoot back up the playfield (typically it was hitting the Hellavtor call button stand up target, or going up the bar/war ghost lane) so I left it playing like that. If I flipped away at it I was often hitting either the ghost or the right orbit. I may mess with this setting, or more likely just leave it as it is right now because I like the game playing hard and fast.
Again huge thank you to crile1 and herg for their work. Hopefully, this helps a few more of you out there improve your AMH gameplay. Any other questions let me know I will do my best to help answer.
Video: www.facebook.com/NorthEndPubPinball/videos/345875979400315/

Thanks for taking the time to document this

#1234 9 days ago

If you beat the game it says "another season starts right now" and the game repeats.

One of our customers actually looped it twice in one game!

Oh and the score is a signed long so it has a max limit as well and rolls over to zero!

#1235 8 days ago

I have had my AMH since new in 2014 and have only got to the Demon Battle one time, but it is possible. Usually, i just go for Bumps In The Night on the latest code anymore.

#1236 7 days ago
Quoted from Betelgeuse:

I have had my AMH since new in 2014 and have only got to the Demon Battle one time, but it is possible. Usually, i just go for Bumps In The Night on the latest code anymore.

What is Bumps in the Night? I don't have the game, and don't see it referenced in the instruction card I found.

#1237 7 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

What is Bumps in the Night? I don't have the game, and don't see it referenced in the instruction card I found.

I have the game, and not sure what it is either?

#1238 7 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

What is Bumps in the Night?

It's a mini-wizard mode. It's also VERY cool, so try to get there if you can.

« Spoiler! Click to reveal.Light Multiball Complete, Photo Ace, and Minion Master to start it. »

#1239 7 days ago

Thanks Herg. Hoping to see what all it takes to do those things some day soon-ish.

#1240 7 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Thanks Herg. Hoping to see what all it takes to do those things some day soon-ish.

Do it you won’t regret it!

#1241 6 days ago

I believe Bumps In The Night was only added to the game in the final update as a mini-wizard mode, so its not on the original rule cards.

#1242 6 days ago

Correct. People were asking for a sub wizard mode.

#1243 6 days ago

How many levels of Minions are there? 9? From what I remember, those get pretty hard. What’s the next step up from mini? Might have to call that one a mostly-wizard mode.

#1244 6 days ago

Bumps in the night is a good challenge to get to and a great mode itself!

#1245 6 days ago

Minions go up to level 9 with a MB at 3 and 6.

They cap off at Level 9 scoring.

#1246 3 days ago

Did some streaming of the new color display last night.

Installation was a piece of cake, but getting decent internet at my location was not. Took a few hours to dial in settings for my streaming rig at the location, but I had a good game beating 5 of the modes which should give you a pretty good idea about a lot of the animations in the game. The battery dies at one point during the video on the player cam but the playfield and display kept chugging along.

https://www.twitch.tv/videos/427713521

This next game I had far better multiball play and fewer modes and I qualified and started Bumps in the Night although I didn't do much with it. Player cam was still out but again you should see a lot of the game's animations.

https://www.twitch.tv/videos/427718889

#1247 3 days ago

Inspired by Tommy, today I turned my extra balls back on and set out for Demon Battle!

I’ve never done it before as my game is set for competition, it’s pretty tough and EBs have been off for a long time.

Took me a few games but I did it! Boom!

When is completed all the ghosts, there was nothing lit except the drop down target bank ... I was like WHAT DO I HAVE TO DOOOOO??

98B57310-B543-4CF1-AF46-16CE04452C4E (resized).jpeg

Then I figured I also needed to beat the last minion - I got the Minion multiball which lasted like 10 seconds and then Demon battle was lit at the door shot.

Beat it too! Nice! Got to the end of the game.

Not my highest score .. only #2. I’ve blown it up a couple of times with huge multiballs.

But very cool to have got to the end of the game.

rd
72B58BC5-9709-49BC-8625-7648EE31AB4E (resized).jpeg

#1248 2 days ago

Very cool RD! I hope to get there one day.

#1249 1 day ago

How have you secured the custom led ring mod in ghost area? It is supposed to fit without adhesive but it never stays.

#1250 1 day ago
Quoted from mthirkell:

How have you secured the custom led ring mod in ghost area? It is supposed to fit without adhesive but it never stays.

I gave up trying to figure that one out so I never kept it in my game. Spent about an hour fiddling with it and didn't like how it's just supposed to stay in place with nothing really securing it.

Anybody want mine?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 40.00
There are 1256 posts in this topic. You are on page 25 of 26.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside