So my game is at my weekend place and gets played every couple of weeks and it's cold while we're not here. I noticed last time and again this time that there seems to be an issue with some of the insert LEDs not being on - pretty much one on each shot. Obviously all the LEDs haven't gone and it is some sort of electrical or connector issue as last time it was intermittent over the course of the weekend. Got here again tonight and same issue.

What's the best place to start trouble shooting anyone please?

thanks

20180831_191631 (resized).jpg

Probably a wire has come loose. Look up the lamp matrix to see whether those lamps have a row or column in common. Track the common wire back toward the backbox until you find the disconnect.

Ok thank you - I searched and it looks like they're all on Row 4 Red/Green. Will get under the hood in daylight tomorrow and see what I can find.

I got tired of having a ball stuck in the pops every few games. It's too early to say for sure if this will fix it, but I made a wonky star post to try. It makes the ring slope to the left where the ball sits.

20180922_102117 (resized).jpg
20180922_115558 (resized).jpg

That’s a great idea Herg. If it works, any plans on making it available, I have the same issue and haven’t been able to solve it

Good idea, but it might have a tendency to rotate. If you do a V2, try to link up with the stud holding the plastic on.

We'll see. There's not much of a moment arm, and the post resists turning more than you'd think, but it is in the pops.

I'll certainly post the file. I guess I could add it to my website, but it would be more to ship than the post would be. I'd really want to make sure it works first.

Just upload the STL to thingiverse

Neat build! Is that the newest Prusa i3?

I have support files on my personal website https://www.benheck.com/amh/

If this works out let me know and I can add it as an option!

Yeah, it's the Prusa i3 MK3, built from a kit. Much nicer than the Maker Select v2 I used before.

Technically the "newest" prusa is an SLA printer

Does the auto bed leveling work well? A couple friends of mine built one and had trouble with that part.

I still have the old Makerbot I used to prototype most of AMH!

Pretty well. My bed was off by up to 0.6mm from one corner to the other. The leveling was good enough to turn that into a good first layer. Since it only tests 9 locations, however, you can end up with high or low spots between the test points, and there's nothing the leveling can do about it.

I'm not usually concerned with the surface finish of the bottom as long as it stays stuck to the bed. If you were, you might be better off using a glass bed.

I've played about 30 games, and have had no trapped balls. I'm still not convinced it's perfect, nor that it won't spin eventually, but I think it's good enough to share the file. If you have a 3D printer, you can print this:
http://ledocd.com/files/AMH_Wonky_Star_Post.zip

If you don't have a printer, I would prefer to get some more time playing with it installed before printing and shipping them.

I've used the mk2 for over a year now, and although the "mesh leveling with 9 points" should make better parts (because if the bed isn't level, or the axes are skewed it adjusts), I think it's slightly gimmicky. The proximity probe that measures distance has to be within 1mm of the tip, which isn't always easy to do. I own two monoprice select V2 printers (wanhao clone) and sometimes I can get just as good prints on a $300 printer if it's calibrated. Only bad part with the cheaper printers is the base bed is really thin and flimsy, which is why I'm starting to add glass on the top layer to stiffen it up.

The Creality Ender is $180 shipped and it's getting rave reviews because it's cheap and has a really stiff frame using 80/20. I'm half tempted to buy one myself.

I'd estimate I've put 50 or so games on AMH since installing the wonky star post, and I've had zero stuck balls. The post has not turned out of position. So, if anyone wants one and doesn't have access to a printer, I'll print you one. Just pay shipping.

http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=35

Awesome, thank you. I'll send you a PM as I don't have access to a printer

Anyone who wants one, please use the link below. It automates things like calculating shipping and printing labels. Thanks.

http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=35

In multi-player, does anyone else's game give players 2-4 5010 points when the ball is kicked into the shooter lane? I'm wondering if I need to check for a touchy switch or if there's a bug.

It's actually doing it on every ball after player 1, ball 1. I found some code related to GLIR handling that I think might be causing it, but I'm curious whether other games do it, or if it's only mine.

Ours does this too.

Same here

Confirmed, it is the GLIR handling code. It's supposed to score when the ball rolls over one of the GLIR switches. The same function is used to check whether GLIR is complete, but it scores 5010, even if it wasn't ran due to a switch hit.

I was wondering if anyone could snap a picture of the route of the ground braid on the start button side of the cabinet - more specifically after it first contacts the lockdown bar mech. I’ve got about 6-8” extra that I need to reattach.

Thanks in advance!

I just took photos of the whole run on the start button side. Hope this is what you were looking for.

6884394D-31C7-4339-86C1-80B27524B1D4 (resized).jpeg

F7C90D1D-F5B8-4536-9940-EC810E2143AD (resized).jpeg

5FD35BD2-D6F8-4373-A277-389B78330959 (resized).jpeg

584902AB-003C-42B3-83E7-D360133C5DFE (resized).jpeg

6E9C9F95-540B-4572-BF81-813DC864101D (resized).jpeg

5C437DD5-3779-4FDB-881A-AEE23D6AFBC2 (resized).jpeg

Y’all see Ben Heck post this today? Any code updates for AMH that folks have in mind? http://twitter.com/benheck/status/1085940963300790273

No more updates for AMH. Only reason I did 2016 update was to boost people's opinions of Spooky's code commitment because at the time RZ sucked.

I cared then because I had a future game - now I don't. Screw it.

Well, I'm glad you did because I love the mini wizard mode and the shot multiplier. So know it didn't go unnoticed! It doesn't need anything. Only thing that would be cool is a Playfield multiplier, but it doesn't have to have it.

Ben, you were the reason I bought RZ after AMH...if I only knew then what I know now. Sure wished you had done RZ.

Charlie wanted me to do it but I was beyond burnt out. I developed AMH nights and weekends while working a full time job.

Then, when I *was* ready to do pins full time, my game gets the shaft and I'm old news. Such is life.

Interesting conversation....

rd

9D2948CB-D3CD-49D6-A759-976CEB9D2F14 (resized).png

You started quitting during AMH because "you had zero faith in the pinball buying public" due to the slow sales start. I still have the email with you saying exactly that.

I offered you half the company to become a full partner during AMH because I thought it would be best for all of us (and I was really afraid you were going to leave!)... you "were making too much money and couldn't take the risk" so you passed and I accepted it.

You quit during RZ, you quit at least every other week while we had you on the payroll helping with ACNC and designing your next game.

The license on your game came down to 1 camp asking for more money than we had to give... we tried to make it work with them, we offered you multiple options to chase other licenses, and offered to let you make whatever original game you wanted where you would have more creative control. You weren't satisfied with any of this, so you quit... then you quit more, then you quit publicly.

Despite all this, we still hoped to help you finish the game we paid for you to develop... even up to a couple months ago. Having it sit here collecting dust sucks. BUT... you can't stop attacking me / Spooky publicly, and stating your version of history... so the desire to do that is fleeting fast.

You CHOSE NOT TO BE HERE. We never wanted you to leave.

First and last time I will say anything on this publicly. This should have been between Ben and Spooky. Period. I have never denied and never will the importance of Ben Heck helping Spooky getting started.

Typing any of this sucks.

You're both respected in the pinball community. Let's not do this publicly. There's no good to be gained for either party.

Kinda harsh to say that to Charlie the one time he pops up to defend himself after a bunch of public comments (not just that twitter exchange from today) from Ben that nobody complained about.

I'm not saying that to Charlie. It was meant for both. It escalated quickly, and I didn't see all of Ben's public comments. Just the one about not wanting to code. I didn't take that as a personal attack on Spooky, but a general was burned out on pinball. I see the comments above now. Again, all of it best left to private conversations.

This really makes me sad. I hate to see hard feelings between you guys. AMH is one of my favorite games, and while the code is great, there are a few bug fixes that could be released.

If this was homepin attacking anyone who criticize's something that would be true. In this case spooky responded in a very polite manner. If one side is going to chose to be public the other side should be able to get their say too.

I’m sorry that Ben and Charlie have had their differences and falling out...but I have seen Ben post a few things in a few threads slamming Charlie. A rebuttal from Charlie is what was needed, for the rest of the story. Now, let’s all move on. Pinball is in its next renaissance, and in a good place with all players involved.

TNA was (is) a hugh scoop for Spooky. And a success story right through. How can anyone be this upset that Spooky shifted track and postpond other projects. If you were in his shoes, then?

If a certain licensed property was show-stopping important for the designer, but too expensive for the company, I guess the designer could have made it work through a pay cut. Or by fronting some money himself. Taking some of the risk.

In this licensing turmoil it seems you can't have anything, there is no bargain and there isn't even any confidence.

Saying an LE would have made it work is like a free out statement. An LE would have been further risk for the company. More expensive to sell. With higher investment and higher manufacturing cost. As you have to give people something for the LE premium price.

Beef over the hardware platform too? I do not know details about the functionality or stability of the PinHeck system. I am sure it works great. But I say the old school matrixed I/O and a centralised driver board is a thing of the past.

Understandable let down to be put back in the queue. And have less resources and service in prototyping (the whitewood cutting report). But this is essentially a contracted freelancer vs. a company with responsibilities in need of a steady revenue and growth.

If the designer wants to prove his point, I suggest to build a prototype that kicks arse. And then maybe someone will buy this design and developement.

STI dropped off my AMH, sadly they scrapped the head of the cab. Contacted spooky to see if they have a replacement available

Scrapped, or scraped? They did a number on my AFM about 1.5 years ago, but paid my claim. Get quotes (including labor) on whatever work needs to be done and file a claim.

Hope it all works out and you get things back to factory.

Not sure where I could get a qoute about the work aspect, figure I am stuck doing it myself. Scraped, so just need to replace the decal itself.

Email was forwarded to the parts department. I'm sure they will get back with you when they thaw out...

I believe they print these on demand because I had to order a replacement a couple years back.

Sounds like a possibility.

Got back to me 20 minutes after I posted.

Now the bad news. The otherside of the head has a scrape I didn't notice so I will probably just order both and do them at the same time.

Worse news, I bought the game off here broken. Game boots into attract mode. There is a credit dot. Game as described resets when you press the left flipper button. Other buttons on that plug, menu, start, enter, right flipper either do nothing or cause the free play sign on the dmd or scores to flash in rapid succession like you were hammering the flipper buttons.

The coin door switch was wired wrong when compared to my rob zombie. It appears to have been reinstalled, upside down. I swapped that back to match rob zombie. No change. I disconnected the plug for those switches. Connected a wire to the ground pin on that plug, touched the wire to each of the pins, one for left still causes a restart. Guessing a board issue? Wonder if I can test it in my rob zombie by just having sound, power, and that plug for those switches.

I believe the PinHeck boards are different versions between AMH and RZ. At least I know the update ROM procedure is very different.

They are, but the plugs are the same and I did the same test on RZ. On RZ grounding the switch's pin on the board causes it to act like normally pressing the switch would.

My thought is that when the interconnect switch was miswired it caused 5v to go where it shouldnt and fried the board. Outside of the switches it does appear to be working correctly.

Can someone take a picture of their coin door switch? I want to verify the orientation there are small numbers on the side in the plastic.

I'm not as familiar with the PinHeck board as say a WMS CPU, but yeah, it sounds like it fried the equivalent PIA chip that would be on a standard switch matrix from WMS/Bally.

Which coin door...AMH? I have both AMH and RZ. And which switch? The interlock?

I can take a pic in the morning.

Interlock, it takes in 5v and I am guessing the 5v was directed back into the board when it was miswired.