Do you know if this is an AP board? I know it's a P-ROC game, any chance they also make the coil board? If it's P-ROC, perhaps there's some troubleshooting info/parts list on their web page.
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Do you know if this is an AP board? I know it's a P-ROC game, any chance they also make the coil board? If it's P-ROC, perhaps there's some troubleshooting info/parts list on their web page.
On the AP web site, they do mention this:
"What transistor do you use on the coil driver boards?
It is an IRL540N, N channel FET."
I know this thread is about the warranty, but in the end - if you can repair yourself for a few dollars rather than $90, that's likely the path I would take.
Quoted from ForceFlow:You need a whole new set of specialized equipment, magnification, good eyesight, and steady hands to deal with these incredibly tiny parts.
I really don't mean to stir the pot here Force...but unless it's a 'lots of pins' IC, it's not bad at all. Actually easier a fair amount of time since you don't need to worry about damaging vias. Having two soldering irons is a must, with appropriate tips makes it very easy. Do it almost everyday and don't even give it a passing thought.
Good eyesight or a magnifier and steady hands is a must - no doubt about it!
I do think people get scared when the magical word 'SMD' is tossed out. A lot of times it's unjustified. With simple parts (resistors, caps, 3, 4, or 5 leaded parts.. use a couple of soldering irons and it's easy. I'd much rather remove SMD than a thru hole anyday.
The spacing really isn't an issue. The 'pick and place' machines need a minimal amount of space to place the the parts. When I do a layout in my line of work - I'd love to shove everything closer together, but the design rules forces the drafting guys to space things farther apart.
A ball grid array? OK a whole new level of complexity!
I'll chime in since I recently purchased Houdini that was NIB, but opened for a show demo.
When picking out the pin, all the players were on the table as options, no manufacture was out of the running, and I'm apparently one of the few that actually looked up warranties prior. So based on my decision, and also tying into the comments on this thread, here's my two cents based on home use only, not a routed game:
1) JJP has great looking games (as is Houdini), no doubt about it. And their warranty is longer. But this comes at a price. What's the delta? $2K, maybe $3K. Would you really spend another 2K for a better warranty, given everything else is the same rather than spend $95 on a node board or $2 on a FET? I wouldn't. That's just me and I understand not everyone can replace a failed part.
2) Stern: I still like Stern a lot. I think their artwork is stellar, but play fields can be rather sparse at times. However, the threads of problems are plentiful: PF problems, node boards (yes, they are being replaced fairly often at no cost, but not always), incomplete software for what appears to be years, the closed concept of the Spike system...and what I consider a big one...splitting cabinets corners that could have been avoided w/maybe $5 in better internal brackets. It was all too much in the end. Sure they might cover it, but geez...maybe it would be better if they didn't have so many problems in the first place? The lack of schematics is a concern since I can repair myself if I have a roadmap. AP uses P-ROC, which schematics were available - at least up until someone cloned the design. P-ROC was fairly big plus in my book vs. the Spike I or II.
3) Spooky: Can't say the wife is a fame of Spooky's PF's, I'm sure that will change someday. And also can't say there were any issues preventing us from getting one, just wasn't the right game at the right time.
A generic observation - not a fan of pro/prem/ce/le/vault/whatever versions. Just make a single run of a pin to keep the cost down while being able to add some 'bells and whistles" as a result - and do it at a reasonable price. Upgrades are OK w/me as long as it doesn't affect the PF (like a butter cab or shaker). I still have the mentality that things were removed to make a pro version.
So in the end, one reported (and inexpensive) node board failed. A $2 part to boot that AP even gives the part number so a DIY can repair cheaply. I looked at the plus and minus of each brand and I decided to w/Houdini. A failed node board, out of warranty whether covered or not covered by AP, would have not affected my decision.
Edit: I do want to add a warranty based on plays could be a viable option. Simple way to help assist HOU owners.
Quoted from Yelobird:Not doubting you but how many companies Warranty wear and tear of rubbers, playfield plasics, or bulbs inside or out of warranty?....
I believe the point was people were making a blanket statement that Stern was covering problems outside of warranty. Strum, from 1st hand experience, said that was not always the case.
Gets back to the comment: "When should a company make a 'good will gesture' and replace outside of the warranty period?" Strum didn't mention rubber wear and tear, it was about broken plastic. That's an important difference. I should add AP includes extra plastics in the goodie bag for just for that occurrence.
Not looking to stir the pot, but plastics not covered on a newer machine falls into the same category as the OP's comments.
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