My Houdini landed this past Tuesday. Number 156. It turned out to be harder than I expected which is exactly what I wanted. Im going to install the new code and see how many bugs it squashed. I read the release notes and didn't see a couple that I've experienced so far. I do have 2 issues that I've tried to remedy with coil adjustments with no luck. The box catapult always misses. I think it may be glancing off the clear ramp just enough to make it go left. The up and down seems good but it hits the wood backing just left of the box. Going to try and capture it with my iPhone in slow-mo. Second is the right kickout/seance hole. It takes like 6 tries for the ball to exit. Maybe the steel scoop needs a tweak. I added power to the slingshots from 4 to 6 to speed things up. I also added pop bumper power from 12 to 18 and has really moved things along. Those default settings made the pops really lazy and drained more often than popped. I might get 2 or 3 pop activations before that, now its double that. I may adjust the pop leaf switches tighter and reduce power and see if i get the same result.
I haven't read all the posts but i had an interesting missing ball problem when the settings were factory. The ball managed to get on top the lower right pop and the ball hunt couldn't dislodge it. It was sitting behind the lock and the groove of the gear. The ball weight was holding the pop down so I'm going to add something there like high density foam or use the screw to hold something to take up that space. Would it be possible for the system to reverse the coil direction in this circumstance to dislodge the ball? Maybe a bad idea as it may hit the glass.
Quoted from rosh:
They are at the top of the release notes on the website with the code, but here are the instructions . . .
To install the update . . .
1) Download the update code and put on a USB Stick (minimum 2GB)
2) Turn on the machine
3) Open the coin door and access the USB extension cable. It will either be anchored to the right side or sitting loose. If this is the first time you are needing to use it, it may have fallen to the back of the cabinet during shipping.
4) Insert the USB stick into the extension cable
5) After a few seconds, the main display should say that code is being updated. The code update process takes approximately 5 minutes
6) When the update is complete, a new message will appear, in green text, that the process is complete. Shut down the game, remove the USB stick, power the game back up.
How should the USB stick be formatted, Fat32 MSDOS etc? How should the file structure look when expanded? Is it ok for the file to be in a folder or does it have to be standalone in the USB. Any warnings about filename or type that would keep it from working? Any issues with certain USB brands or speed to be aware of?
Scored about 30% better with the new code and flow is improved. Now wheres that shaker motor!
Quoted from transprtr4u:
Shaker came today, easy install!
Pleased with the use of shaker, love the perfect timing on the trunk lid slam! Have yet to feel it during "vanishing elephant"
Those awaiting your games well worth the price for this addition!
Who did you order it from? AP or your dist?
Quoted from rosh:
Should feel it when the trunk closes after the ball is thrown.
I believe they are going to move the shaker location in the future to make it easier to install.
It should fire on the match, although maybe that is something I added more recently that has not gone out yet.
I'll continue to look at ways to use it that enhance without being forced.
Is it possible to have the shaker user configurable? shaker motor for pops YES/NO, shaker motor with magnets YES/NO etc?
Found a sub and box combo in my collection that fits inside the cabinet perfectly. It looks like it doesn't clear the underside of the playfield but it has about 3/4 of space. The sound is so much better now and I can hear things in the music and other sound effects that I never did before. Also installed some of those multicolour LED kits from amazon. Both upgrades cost me a whopping $17.
Do the "magic" targets reward SEANCE letters? happened to me today where I got S and A while The ball was swirling around at the right magnet and hit magic twice doing so. I also had the upper catpult go off when I was actively playing the only ball and no ball was in the catapult.
My led strip died, started to flicker with flippers and then stopped. checked obvious connections but not sure where it terminates. All the other lighting appears ok. Also powered down and unplugged for about 20 mins with no change.
I chatted with Barry a couple weeks ago and already have some odds and ends getting dealt with. As a pilot I'm a firm believer in redundancy. Therefore I've emailed, called and posted online. That said, the help email doesn't kickback a ticket, case number or confirmation email to verify it has been received. I was also hoping someone could chime in to say what board is driving this particular LED strip so I can start to troubleshoot over the weekend. Start with the east things like output voltage and connector seating. Already tried to follow the harness and haven't found the end.
Ive been getting tons of ball hits just left of the trunk due to the ball changing direction by glancing off the clear ramp and completely missing the trunk. Its happened so much the paint on the wood is starting to lighten. If you look in this pic you'll see just under the yellow wire and to the left of the "HH" you'll see the edges are now lighter from paint loss. So that'll be first place to look is under that shrink wrap. The larger connector after that is good.
As for the ball deflections im going to have to try to adjust that catapult assembly again. I may have to oblong the mounting holes to pull the assembly back 1/16-1/8 so it will maintain the arc but be able to clear the ramp. Its such minor contact but enough to steer it left several degrees. Ive also considered cutting the ramp mounting post down slightly to make the same clearance but im concerned it would affect the early drain hole above the pops.
Ive noticed during water escape that the volume is low when he says shoot "left or right orbit". Also the volume for "extra ball" seems low as well.
Extra ball could use a little more flare in how its said or brought out in such a way that its noticed more. My T2 has a great light show for extra ball. TZ pauses the game and has the talking doll drop it off in DMD animations. it seems to me that when when extra ball is announced he seems a little unenthusiastic. which leads me to the excitement in his voice when saying jackpot or amazing. Those have a great impact and more would be better.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:
Im willing to bet its not a board issue for your led strip. My best guess is connectors at either end. The black shrinkwrap off of led strip on backboard is hiding the connector to the strip. A good ball hit could loosen it. Second wires come out the back are a yellow and orange/black. They dont go far, about 20 inches under playfield to connector pictured below. Try reseating both ends.
So it turned out thats exactly what it was, the connector under that shrink wrap. although now I kinda like the shadows cast by the wireform by only having the spotlight on the trunk lol.
Speaking of countdown timers. It would be good if the countdown timer for a particular mode didn't start until the ball has actually left the scoop. Mine sometimes burns up almost 10 seconds as the ball struggles to get out over and over as the clock is running. I wouldn't classify that as part of the games difficulty. Seems the timer could be triggered by that switch down there yes?
Quoted from pingod:
My issues are fixed,thanks Barry.
You the man
Pinched wires in the ball trough coil.
Everyone check to make sure the wires are not close there.
Later releases they rerouted the wires.
What serial do you have? if you don't mind
Well I finally broke down and changed to 5 balls per game. By the 4th and 5th I really get a flow going and increased scoring by a factor of 4. I spent 2 months on three with no real gains. The machine is here for enjoyment so ill make it fit the part.
Anyone else have this happen? These seem to be stuck on with some kind of adhesive that stays flexible, probably to help absorb impact. As you can see it came off at the thinnest points where there is little adhesive and material to transfer the load from any force. This spot was already loose for the lack of contact area and was really easy to catch with the flipper alignment tool. The left side has much more material and so far so good. Thinking of filling in the empty space with clear epoxy to make it one solid piece and avoid all these built in stress risers. If anything these should have been shipped with a set of spares since the flippers are going to be contacting the ball for every shot vs everything else and these are easily the weakest plastic in the game.
If only there was a system where you contacted the manufacturer and they emailed you back.........
I did, Nobody home. Warranty is up tomorrow
Which cliffy protector is being used on the ball scoop on the right? I thought there was a link in this thread. Im gonna need one before I play anymore
Quoted from drummermike:
I had 18.8.1 code in and pin was OK. I just tried twice to put in 18.8.5 and now I have nothing. Pin will not boot up. It flashes from blue to black screen. When I put the stick in it was done in a second but now there is nothing.
I would suggest going back to 18.5.4 and then after a successful reboot into that version then go to the latest.
Looking at my logs of drains on right vs left, I closed up the left lane since it was 2 to 1 for left drains. I think that left divider wire should have been a rubber post.
In regards to the ever annoying catapult deflection, I made some changes that may be worth having a look at depending on what you have going on. Yes the last suggestion by Barry is part of this. Mine has always had an issue deflecting left because of what Ive thought was the low power issue. I still think that is the case for some of it but basically whatever was causing this parasitic loss to the catapults action had many possible causes. Ive tried many things and the problem always returned after a few games. First I pulled the whole assembly back and rotated slightly to get away from the ramp. Then I dropped the ramp an 1/8 of an inch. I lubed the pivot points. All of these changes reduced the issue but my goal is to eliminate it. I found one last thing and only because the catapult has a few hundred pulls now. I found witness marks on the edge of the playfield and catapult. I found it has been intermittently touching just enough to take a little power away from the throw. ive now shaved the side of the catapult and so far so good after about 20 tosses. hopefully ill get away with having it work during peak power usage times.
@ Rosh. The shaker motor really makes the machine vibrate and buzz when the setting is on heavy and its winding up for the catapult toss. Could you code the output to pulse width modulate it to about 70% so it pulls down the RPM for that particular scenario?
How about having some shake on the slingshots in heavy?
Quoted from mbwalker:
I suspect not many know the meaning of 'buck-boost'...do you design power supplies?
No I don't but I work with on board converters in automotive electronics that often have them to the stabilize the variable voltages that naturally occur in the vehicle environment.
Theyre pretty simple and would be cheap to build. induction Coil, resistor, cap and obviously. for those that don't know It looks like a kind of figure 8 design where the input voltage can be cut back going one direction and boosted in the other. I don't design boards so ive no idea what values of the all the components would need to be. Then where to deploy it? Just the coils, the whole game?
It’s not a game for people that suck at pinball and quit easily. It’s a game for players that have patience and want to improve. It’s not a game you play casually a dozen times and then say this is crap. It’s super tough and I love that it is.
Id also love to be able to control the left and right magnets with the flipper buttons even momentarily. that would be fun. Have you ever experimented with that?
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